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Jul 2 2007, 02:04 PM
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#1
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 107 Joined: 27-October 06 Member No.: 23438 |
Some of you may have seen my sniper scouts over in the WIP forums. Some people asked for a tutorial on "Salt dipping", so here it is.
Setup; put some salt in a small tin (the smaller it is the less likely you are to burn yourself on the sides, and the less energy wasted). Make sure it’s deep enough to prevent your model from touching the bottom, but not so deep you’re heating up a load of salt you won’t be using. The tin in the pic isn't full; it was when I used it but I spilt some before I took the photo. If you’ve got an element hob with a flat top you can probably get away with putting the tin straight on this, but since I’ve got a gas hob I put the tin inside a pan. Probably best if this is an old pan, since it might get slightly marked by the heat (i.e. mine did). Next to this put a bowl of water. ![]() ![]() Now for the heat! The person I got this from recommended heating for 5 mins on high heat and a further 15 on low. Personally I think this is rather too much, but I’ve yet to experiment with that. Dipping the model; this requires some care. Firstly, the salt is hot (duh) so you don’t want to be sticking your fingers in it. Secondly, if you let joins get hot (for example the flat/curved bit on legs where the torso’s glued to) then they may warp and the body won’t fit. What I do is stick one leg in at a time, burying it up to the hip, but sideways so that almost all of the leg’s the same depth into the salt. The salt at the bottom’s likely to be hotter. After 30-50 seconds I lift the part out by the unheated leg, and bend the heated one. If you do this with pliers, be very careful not to squish the hot plastic. You’ll probably be able to tolerate the heat and bend it with your hand/finger; reposition the leg quickly and then put it into the water (holding it in position). It’ll harden up in seconds, and you can take it out again. It’ll also wash off any salt stuck to the model; I found mine came out looking like they were going to be permanently encrusted in the stuff, but it didn’t mark the plastic and it just washed off when I cooled them. ![]() ![]() Before you commit models to this, practise. Cut off some sprue, and test it out. You can find out how much time makes the plastic soft, and how much destroys it. It’s better to mess it up with sprue then with some expensive legs; if you overheat the component chances are it won’t be repairable. The extremities of the part will also get worse the more times you heat them; one of my scouts has a rather fat foot from being put in more times then I should have. One last thing; don’t bend limbs too far! Over the top poses might seem great at first, but actually you don’t need to alter models too much to get some good dynamism. Move them too far and your model will just look a bit kung-fu crazy. Hope this is of help. -------------------- See more salamanders on my photo junkpile.
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Jul 2 2007, 02:42 PM
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#2
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 1320 Joined: 24-February 05 From: East Sussex, England Member No.: 16247 Chapter Name:++Iron Lords++ |
If you wanted to bend to bend two legs at the same time, on one model, can you stand the legs in the salt to waist height?
-------------------- ![]() Project: Armoured Forge- My WIP Iron Lords army Bringing The DIY Swapping Project to you since 2007! Monday 4th January 2010= Big night in wrestling- WWE Raw vs TNA! |
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Jul 2 2007, 03:37 PM
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#3
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 107 Joined: 27-October 06 Member No.: 23438 |
If you wanted to bend to bend two legs at the same time, on one model, can you stand the legs in the salt to waist height? I'd recommend bending them one at a time. It'll only add another minute to the total time, and it'll be far easier to control. -------------------- See more salamanders on my photo junkpile.
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Jul 2 2007, 03:46 PM
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#4
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 664 Joined: 28-April 04 From: Copenhagen, Denmark Member No.: 10707 Chapter Name:Iron Warriors |
Wow..
I'll have to try that, now where can I find an old frying pan? Luther.. -------------------- |
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Jul 3 2007, 12:10 PM
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#5
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 480 Joined: 29-August 02 Member No.: 919 |
Thanks for the tutorail Psythu, I'm going to give this a try. Do you happen to know if this works with resin parts as well?
-------------------- Thiers not to make reply
Thiers not to reason why Thiers but to do and die Into the valley of death Rode the six hundred Alfred Tennyson |
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Jul 3 2007, 06:42 PM
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#6
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 107 Joined: 27-October 06 Member No.: 23438 |
I'd imagine so - resin parts can be heated in very hot water, so this should be fine. Try and experiment with some scrap if you've got any though, because it'd be nasty if it went wrong.
-------------------- See more salamanders on my photo junkpile.
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Jul 3 2007, 09:45 PM
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#7
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 56 Joined: 11-May 07 Member No.: 26858 |
Wow im definetly going to try this but can you post some pics of the finished product?
Edit: Nevermind found the link at the top lol This post has been edited by Commander Bly: Jul 3 2007, 09:46 PM -------------------- |
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Jul 3 2007, 10:34 PM
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#8
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 834 Joined: 12-October 06 From: Cary, Illinois, USA Member No.: 23181 Chapter Name:Harbingers of Woe |
Great job on the tutorial. This is very simple. Thanks for giving in to our requests!
I'm a pirate, are you? -------------------- Chaos Bikers, unsafe at any speed!
Nothing says "These twenty-four inches are MINE!" like a Vindicator. There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness" |
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Jul 4 2007, 01:36 AM
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#9
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 251 Joined: 21-August 02 From: British Columbia, Canada Member No.: 345 |
Simple yet brilliant at the same time, thanks for sharing!
Did you make any mistakes using this technique? and if so how, if possible, did you fix them. I'm just curious about possibly obliterating details by bending at the wrong place and if its repairable. -------------------- |
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Jul 4 2007, 08:42 AM
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#10
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 107 Joined: 27-October 06 Member No.: 23438 |
Did you make any mistakes using this technique? and if so how, if possible, did you fix them. I'm just curious about possibly obliterating details by bending at the wrong place and if its repairable. Plenty of mistakes. First mistake was (when practising with the sprue) putting it in vertically. It ended up too near the bottom, and the end kinda curled up... but if you imagine all 4 outer edges curling backwards (not the sprue curling sideways), making the end really fat. That was irrepairable, but it was sprue so it didn't matter. The other mistake was with the first leg. After bending it at the knee I thought it should be moved at the hip so it wasn't so far away from the other leg (made him look kinda crazy). I heated it up and moved it at the hip, not noticing that this unbent the knee. So I had to heat it a third time to rebend the knee, and as a result of all the heating his boot got slightly fat and warped. No-one's noticed yet though, so it's not a massive issue. So basically; you shouldn't destroy details by bending as it can simply be unbent, but you can destroy details by heating too much. -------------------- See more salamanders on my photo junkpile.
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Jul 4 2007, 08:40 PM
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#11
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 483 Joined: 23-August 02 From: Hastings, UK Member No.: 563 |
Is it possible to obliterate the details whislt holding the models by hand?
Cheers Dan -------------------- GW BOXES AND BLISTERS 25% OFF, PM ME FOR DETAILS |
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Jul 4 2007, 10:24 PM
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#12
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 251 Joined: 21-August 02 From: British Columbia, Canada Member No.: 345 |
I tried it today and it worked pretty good, I did lose a bit of detail on one part by reheating it one time to many but overall I would call it a success.
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Jul 5 2007, 12:02 AM
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#13
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 107 Joined: 27-October 06 Member No.: 23438 |
Is it possible to obliterate the details whislt holding the models by hand? Not unless you squeeze reeeeeeeeeeally hard... Are we going to get to see what you've made, 'Ussell? -------------------- See more salamanders on my photo junkpile.
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Jul 6 2007, 10:54 AM
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#14
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 69 Joined: 6-December 06 Member No.: 24157 |
can u show us a model that has been salt dipped. also why in salt can u explain
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Jul 6 2007, 08:54 PM
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#15
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 573 Joined: 25-May 07 From: Glasgow, Scotland Member No.: 27068 Chapter Name:Sons of Medusa |
It has a lower melting point than plastic and at a temperature far less than a flame. This will not make the model too hot to handle, nor fully melt the plastic like holding a flame to it would.
It makes the plastic just about right and malleable. -------------------- |
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Jul 7 2007, 07:53 AM
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#16
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 278 Joined: 7-April 07 From: Vienna, AT Member No.: 26186 Chapter Name:Black Templar |
thanks for the tutorial! seems quite easy, have to try this.
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Jul 8 2007, 12:53 PM
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#17
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 446 Joined: 15-May 07 From: Bracknell, UK Member No.: 26921 Chapter Name:Fireblades |
Interesting... I'll try this later, but first: some questions. To whit: How hot does the salt get? (/oC); And could an oven be used instead of a hob?
-------------------- My stuff: + Lots of Knight Titans! + Gallery (SM, CSM & WIP) + Post 200 on 14/08/07, 300 on 25/04/08, 400 on 18/09/08! Acolyte of the The Cult of Orange -- None can withstand our... colour. 5th ed. W/D/L: SM: 1/1/3 CSM: 10/5/6 |
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Sep 6 2007, 12:00 AM
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#18
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 251 Joined: 21-August 02 From: British Columbia, Canada Member No.: 345 |
Sorry for so long replying to the request for a picture
![]() It's not the best shot but I straightened the sword arm a bit so it was more pointing than hacking and I angled the arm holding the bolt pistol out a bit at the elbow. Just did another one yesterday also which I'll post asap. -------------------- |
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Sep 18 2007, 09:26 AM
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#19
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 7 Joined: 15-September 07 Member No.: 29244 |
Would this work on metal models as well?
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Sep 20 2007, 10:29 PM
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#20
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![]() +FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 107 Joined: 27-October 06 Member No.: 23438 |
I don't think it'll be useful for metal. It's a very soft metal to start with though, so heating it a little might mean there's less tearing if you bend it. Only way to find out is to try it, preferably on something scrap.
-------------------- See more salamanders on my photo junkpile.
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Oct 1 2007, 10:32 PM
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#21
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 70 Joined: 30-September 07 From: BC, Canada Member No.: 29581 |
Men...geesh...if you don't want to mark the pot or pan you're using put a little bit of water in it. Watch the heating though because this will alter how quickly your salt heats because the water will heat around the tin...You may find you get a more even heat in your salt this way but definately be careful you don't put in too much water b/c if it starts to boil you'll have water splashing into your salt.
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Oct 8 2007, 05:39 PM
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#22
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 24 Joined: 6-October 07 Member No.: 29700 |
I definitely have to try this!
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Oct 10 2007, 01:06 PM
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#23
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 401 Joined: 11-October 06 Member No.: 23159 |
Men...geesh...if you don't want to mark the pot or pan you're using put a little bit of water in it. Watch the heating though because this will alter how quickly your salt heats because the water will heat around the tin...You may find you get a more even heat in your salt this way but definately be careful you don't put in too much water b/c if it starts to boil you'll have water splashing into your salt. Not fair to point out the silliness of men. It's the silliness of those who don't cook --Me -------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- "Don't be so humble - you are not that great." --Golda Meir -------------------------------------------------------- |
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Dec 21 2007, 06:53 AM
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#24
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 1331 Joined: 2-November 06 From: Wandering around. Member No.: 23542 Chapter Name:Null Rods |
You try powdering your models bodies before putting them into the sand? Also, have you tried cutting a shoulderpad in half then flex it to your liking, then glue it back together? Finally, what about using pieces of sprue like greenstuff when you sculpt say, a horn and heat it up to bend it?
-------------------- *What is human? I ♥ ♀
1:If human was flesh, evolving merely one billionth of a percent makes us something else. 2:If human was mind, all thought patterns, processing and communication are so vast, everything can be human. 3:If human was soul, then everything else is soul-less. ┌────�*Then, if we're not any of the above, what does that make us? │☼▲☼│ -Aethist Answer: Being human is just a pause in evolution. └┬┬┬┬┘-Religeous Answer: We were made to be perfect, by being perfectly imperfect. ─└┴┴┘ (Remove the N in my real name, you get a cookie) - Clue: Go south. |
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Sep 26 2008, 03:48 AM
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#25
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+FRATER DOMUS+ Group: + FRATER DOMUS + Posts: 62 Joined: 24-September 08 From: LA, CA Member No.: 38634 Chapter Name:Inquisitor Lord Vincentio |
would this work on arms as well?
-------------------- To boldly seek heresy...where others have already sought it...
To root out the xenos...and offer them tea... To punish the traitors of mankind...with a spork and a shrubbery! |
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