D6Veteran Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 [LATEST PROGRESS POSTED AS REPLIES TO THIS TOPIC - PICS UPDATE SUPERBOWL SUNDAY] It's been almost a year since I posted a pic of my Ultramarines: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3115/3180146697_9b5eec6aa3_b.jpg I took a break to expand my Tau army some more but am now focused on finishing my Ultras. Everything has been airbrushed using the modulation technique, and this past week I've been brushing the Tanks: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2708/4291398017_0974d7f280_b.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4007/4292139422_ee83a0a6ba_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2772/4292139866_58c6637f46_b.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4292140252_5d1d794da5_b.jpg It's been a little painful to weather them down so much after I had gotten such a beautiful, modulated coat of blue on them, but I like my army dirty. While working on these guys I've settled on running the Kor'sarro Khan IC as my Ultramarines Captain. I think granting the outflank ability to this army suits the mech theme. I've got 3 of 9 speeders primed, but am considering going with 3 speeders and 6 bikes to fill out my FA choice. Feedback welcome! More on Flickr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wokkers Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 awesome looking tanks there mate. would you please share your weathering method with us? :devil: :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T0MMY Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Brilliant looking heavy recon force! I'm doing a similar (but smaller 4-5 razorbacks) eagle warriors with 6 man squads. Your tanks look brilliant. I just bought an airbrush (GW one in fact) and have brushed the first coats onto razorback one - was a little dissapointed with the finish at first (was a bit splattery), but has dried not too bad. Is there a specific technique to good airbrushing or just try it and see style?? Look forward to seeing more of your guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ephrael Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I don't know what the "modulation technique" is as I don't have an airbrush yet but your tanks look fantastic. I would also like to know your weathering technique with a step by step tutorial if you wouldn't mind. I can't wait to see what you do with your troops paint jobs. Keep us posted and keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eikrem Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Those tanks look pretty darn good. I know its been asked before, but how do you do the weathering on them? It looks incredible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Lysander Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 The weathering is magnificent! Does it have anything to do with your airbrush? If so (or not), can you give us a few tips on how to achieve such an effect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6Veteran Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 I just got into work and saw all the questions. Thanks for the comments - glad you liked them. I will follow up today with details on how I did the airbrushing and weathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ephrael Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I just got into work and saw all the questions. Thanks for the comments - glad you liked them. I will follow up today with details on how I did the airbrushing and weathering. Thanks, it will be appreciated by all of us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6Veteran Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Here is a description of the technique I used on my Ultramarines. Disclaimer - I do not pretend to be an expert on these methods, and have come to this technique through watching pro painters and much practice. Feel free to add your own suggestions. Step 1: PRIME MODELS with multiple fine coats of black. Step 2: AIRBRUSH entire model with darkened Ultramarines blue. Again, multiple fine coats to produce a smooth finish that covers well but retains detail. Step 3: AIRBRUSH MODULATION. (my method is less advanced that what "experts" use). Prepare 2-3 mixtures of paint for your airbrush. The mixtures should be your base color (Ultra blue) and 1-2 highlights up from that (Ultra blue plus ratios of white or light tan). Start with the base coat and airbrush the vehicle top down. Cover top, and top 4/5s of the vehicle sides, allowing for some over-spray into shadowed areas. The goal is to get your base color onto the vehicle everywhere except where hard shadows fall (leaving the darkened blue from the previous step). Next spray top down with your first highlight. Cover top and top half of vehicle sides to about 1/2 way down, allowing some over-spray. Pick out certain panels for highlight, like the outward facing exhaust pipe panel and front track covers. Repeat with the 2nd highlight, but concentrate on the top of the vehicle, allowing some over-spray onto the sides. Pick out the tops of anything sticking out like those door ramp stops at the top of the doors, hatches and upper edges. Remember you are not trying to make clean lines, you want some over-spray so that the different tones blend. (I suggest playing around with a baby toy/car or some other Rhino sized object with lots of angles). Step 4: DETAILS. Paint all your details. Exhaust pipes, lenses, heraldry, tracks, antennas . . . don't go too crazy on the level of detail, as you will come back and wash/highlight these later as needed. Step 5: APPLY DECALS. Now comes the painful part. You should have a vehicle that looks pretty good, better than what most people produce. But now you're going to ruin it. Step 6: PAINT CHIPS. Using a fingernail (note to Chaos players: I mean your own attached fingernail!), scrape away small or large sections of those decals to create the effect of paint chipping. Step 7: PAINT CHIPS. Use a piece of foam (figure carrying case foam works great) and dab on dark grey/granite (I use a Vallejo dark grey) onto the vehicle to create the effect of pain wear. Focus on edges and areas that are likely to see from boot tread (steps on door, around hatches, top of vehicle) and collisions (front/back corners). Be irregular. On some vehicles choose maybe the top door to create a large (nickel sized) section of grey to indicate heavy wear, or around the tow chains. If you mess up, quickly wipe off with wet rag, or just go with it - maybe this vehicle has been out in the field longer and has more wear. Step 8: BARE METAL. Take a #2 pencil or graphite art pencil, and run it around all the edges where the grey paint was sponged. Pencil in the middle area of any larger areas of wear. Also apply to the track treads. You're creating sections where bare metal is exposed. It's a subtle effect - unlike when using silver paint. But when the model is completed it will look real (because it's to scale). Step 9: APPLY SUBSTRATE FOR WEATHERING. Airbrush a *gloss* coat/varnish. GLOSS not matte - very important! You need this finish in order to apply the weathering and spread the oil paint. Step 10: RUST. This is very easy, but may be unfamiliar and requires oil paints. MIG makes low odor oil paints and turpentine that make modeling with them a treat. Moisten fine brush with turpentine/thinner, and use a rust colored oil paint and fill in panel seams, corners, rivets and all track/wheel gaps and seams. Let that paint dry up for about 30 minutes to an hour (you want the paint to firm up but not fix completely). Then go back with a turpentine/thinner moistened (paint free) brush and blend the rust paint downwards. Your goal is to wipe the paint into downward streaks (or windward streaks on the vehicle top) so that it looks like rust wash. The effect is really cool around rivets, where the thinner will clear the rust color from the actual rivet, and leave paint around the rivet and running down from the rivet. If you wash away too much, just add some more oil paint and try again, or leave it, maybe this rivet is not rusting. Step 11: RUST DUST: using a light orange/rust pigment, brush on rust to selected areas where you want to convey more than usual amounts of rust. I usually pick out tow chains, tow hooks, heavily weathered seams, select rivets . . . Pigments can be dusted on and then moved around, blown off, wiped off, and manipulated into creases and seams using a wet brush. I stick to using them dry, and brush off excess and wipe them in the direction of wind or gravity, to create a natural streaking and distribution. Step 12: DRIED MUD: I go a bit crazy with this pigment. It's a tan color, the color of dried mud or dust. You can choose another color to match your bases/environment theme. Apply the same way as the rust dust. Look at the vehicle and imagine where dirt would build up and get trapped. For example on the Whirlwind, the front missile launcher plates are set back and would act as dirt collectors, as would areas around the hatch, door seems and front armor. Apply liberal amounts to the tracks and wheels. Then with your thumb (again Chaos players, YOUR thumb), wipe the excess pigment to leave the track treads bar metal. Step 13: SOOT: This is my favorite part and it's hard for me to hold back. Using a smoke pigment, load up a small brush and fill in the channels around the exhaust panels and the vents on the top and sides of the vehicle (whether smoke should be coming out of all those places I don't know, but it sure looks cool). Also take the brush and dabble on more smoke pigment around those areas to indicate build up of soot. Dabble the soot outwards with the wind (towards rear of vehicle). Dabble some around the top of the vehicle around the exhaust pipes. You can also you this pigment to mark a hit from incoming fire. Or imagine what a vehicle would like rolling through and urban war zone where burning tanks and buildings would result in a build up of soot on the vehicle. Next Steps: I'll post them as I complete them. Includes gun barrels, exhaust pipes and finish. Links: 1 - here are some excellent video tutorials on modulation techniques, weathering with oils/hairspray/pigments: http://www.youtube.com/user/ScaleModelMedic 2 - A place to buy MIG pigments and oil paints. http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplie...g_pigments.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wokkers Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 amazing. thanks for the detailed tutorial. can one of the librarium staff convert this to a tutorial article please? :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6Veteran Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Of course. I'll complete it in a couple days as I get some pics of one of them finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Mongol Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Wow! Awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6Veteran Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 Latest update. Trying out different skin colors, rust and golden bolters. So far I'm happy with the direction. All the marines have bare heads so I think the contrast of different skins colors will provide some extra detail and "pop" that is needed in this heavily weathered theme. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4298286008_0fa58762c9_b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freakiq Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Looking really nice, very realistic weathering on the tanks. Looks like they've been fighting in a desert for weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL. Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 awesome looking tanks there mate. would you please share your weathering method with us? :tu: :tu: i second that motion (just read this page, thanks!) very cool looking smurf tanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wokkers Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 awesome looking tanks there mate. would you please share your weathering method with us? :D ;) i second that motion (just read this page, thanks!) very cool looking smurf tanks browse back a few posts. he gives an in-depth description of how its done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThirtySixNights Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Amazing Weathering! Certainly worthy of recognition! this is how all armies should look!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Lysander Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Thanks for the tutorial. Looks good on marines too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6Veteran Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 I am nearly finished with 4th Squad, my entry for the LPC. The marines are 95% complete. Just need to do some touch up like adding more soot and filling in select highlight detail. The Razorback is about 60% complete. It needs soot, rust, dust, highlight touch up and exhaust pipe detail. I am not sure about the banner. I'm not great at free hand. The plan is for each squad to have a different colored banner. Green, Red, Purple, Orange, Blue, Black and Yellow. I wanted to add some color at the army level, so that when the entire 2000 pts are viewed on the table top at 3 ft, there's some detail to really pop out the different squads. Feedback/ideas welcome. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4309856127_a2ff7f0924_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4310592422_b5f780d920_b.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4309856241_1a6c073b68_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2770/4310592644_ed3e9b1edd_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4309856447_5bd3a879b6_b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white radish Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 To be Mr. Critical... Adeptus Mechanicus symbol? What about Ultramarines symbols? I know I'm not the best at freehand, but I will stick decals on my dudes. Bottom pic, the guy on the right seems to have dislocated his shoulder. It's just a little off for me ;) The Sergeant is very nice, but almost doesn't seem special enough amongst the other guys. The banner is almost too muted and weathered/doesn't pop at all for me, whereas for the Mr. Macho Marine, a banner says, HERE I AM, CHAOS, AND I'M GOING TO KICK YOU IN THE GLUTEUS MAXIMUS! Maybe I am just too used to blingy stuff. (The freehand is great, the coloring is just weathered and not glorious/asskicking enough for a banner IMO) To be Mr. Nice... Really like the attention paid to the Purity Seals. Good use of the Scout heads. I'm doing the same. Are these to be recent promotions from the 10th Company, or just a use of the heads? I also throw on some of the Scout gear (the rope, the packs, etc) onto my recent promotions into the Battle Companies to make the new Battle Brother seem more Scout-ly. Really solid work overall. I tried to give some constructive feedback, and I know I do not paint to this level, but hopefully the comments help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6Veteran Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 I didn't notice the shoulder! Must have slipped after I glued it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thantoes Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 It makes my soul cry to see such dirty vehicles, looks like sarg is going to have to proscribe extra punishment details to all :) These are really fantastic, the attention to detail is amazing. While the dirty look is not my cup of tea you have pulled this off to perfection. I love it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Loken Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 That's spme excellent work there dir. The weathering as others have said is quite brilliant. I like the battleworn look you've achieved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greatcrusade08 Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 im pretty opne minded on the whole dirty or clean issue with painting.. aslong as there is continuity its all gravy IMO. As for these they look fantastic, you did an amazing job on the weathering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Lysander Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Really nice! I really like the sarge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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