Dewi Sant Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Well I think its about time that I started to keep a blog of my work hopefully it will help motovate me to paint more often. So as I have got my hand on my misses camera while mine is in-op (still) I thought I would take and post some pics of my current pledge. As you will see I have given my vindicator its base colour and added some hazard stripes to the dozer blade. Dozer Blade Front R/H/S L/H/S C&C Welcome people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitchell93 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I like the hazard stripes, i like them a lot. What are you doing up at ten to six by the way its the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 Thanks for the comments mate. I'm happy with the stripes even though some of the lines aren't bang on strait but weathering and highlighting will fix that. As for the time, well I've emigrated to Australia so it was around 1800 my time...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spazmonkey Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Thanks for the comments mate. I'm happy with the stripes even though some of the lines aren't bang on strait but weathering and highlighting will fix that. As for the time, well I've emigrated to Australia so it was around 1800 my time...lol Wel Welcome fellow immigrant what part of OZ did you move too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 Thanks for the comments mate. I'm happy with the stripes even though some of the lines aren't bang on strait but weathering and highlighting will fix that. As for the time, well I've emigrated to Australia so it was around 1800 my time...lol Wel Welcome fellow immigrant what part of OZ did you move too? Melbourne mate, you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 Well here is the finished Vindicator. Hope you like it. Please take the time to leave C & C. The light makes the colour look very blue. Its not under natural light. Now to finish some GH's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticcanadian Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Either way, it looks bangin' What paint scheme did you come up with and what lighting are you using that it makes appear much more blue than it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulweih Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 That's one nice vindicator brother, good handiwork. Congrats on completing the oath. As for critics: The golden Skull with wings on the dozerblade would stand out more if it was painted in bone colours methinks. I just think the gold drowns in the yellow around it. Also, to me the wolf skull on top of the big gun looks very tiny and a little 'in the wrong place' and the exhausts are extremely dark, the Iron Priests would not approve ;), sometimes a little less is that much more. I hope it doesn't sound too harsh, it's meant in the good way ;) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat33.1 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Nice work so far. If it was mine I would have drilled out the exhausts as I do this on all my boltguns, exhausts, meltaguns, etc. I would also add some devlun mud wash to it on the running gear, tracks and lower hull recesses and edges to make it look more used. You can start with a 1:1 water/wash if you don't want to go too dark too fast not quite a glaze technique but less harsh than straight wash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Thanks for all the C & C lads, keep it comming! :P Either way, it looks bangin' What paint scheme did you come up with and what lighting are you using that it makes appear much more blue than it is? Primed black. Fenris Grey basecoat:- Airbrush. 1:1 Fenris/SW Grey:- Airbrush. 3:1 SW Grey / Fenris Drybrush. SW Grey Drybrush. I used a desk lamp. I have a better set up but its currently being shipped out to OZ with the rest of my worldly possessions. That's one nice vindicator brother, good handiwork. Congrats on completing the oath. As for critics: The golden Skull with wings on the dozerblade would stand out more if it was painted in bone colours methinks. I just think the gold drowns in the yellow around it. Also, to me the wolf skull on top of the big gun looks very tiny and a little 'in the wrong place' and the exhausts are extremely dark, the Iron Priests would not approve :D, sometimes a little less is that much more. I hope it doesn't sound too harsh, it's meant in the good way :blush: . I think your right about the Winged skull, I'll be re-visiting that. Looking at it the exhausts are dark on the top. I did the soot effect using FW weathering powders. I'll try and replicate the effect that metal takes on when heated . Nice work so far. If it was mine I would have drilled out the exhausts as I do this on all my boltguns, exhausts, meltaguns, etc. I would also add some devlun mud wash to it on the running gear, tracks and lower hull recesses and edges to make it look more used. You can start with a 1:1 water/wash if you don't want to go too dark too fast not quite a glaze technique but less harsh than straight wash. Just drilled out the exhausts and it looks much better :P As for the running gear, I work with AFV's so know just how dirty they can get. I will be weathering the track, road wheels and hull but I want to get more confident with using weathering powders first. I don't want any of my vehicles to look like they are fresh out of base overhaul. They are hulking machines of war and not the family run-around after all...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Well a lot has changed since I last posted. I was fed up with my blue SW's so the all went in a bath of Simple Green (this stuff is amazing). I have desided to go down the some route as Les form APJ used to paint his 13th Coy SW Link His work is inspirational and his wash recipes work a treat! Some here is the first of my finished GH, as you can see I the used the old Wolfen models to portray MoW. The base isn't finished yet and he still has a bit a detail work left to do on him. Next up is my Lone Wolf its I bugger to get that SS in the right hand, but I'm happy with the way its turned out. Here is a pic of some GS work that I have been playing about with. I found the following blog a huge help with some amazing work on here. Link Last but not least I wanted to post a pic of how effective Simple Green (SG) is at removing paint. My Bjorn Mini was bought when he was first released way back in the day and has been stripped a few times before using nail polish remover. This works well but doesn't remove the paint down in the recesses and I would have to go at it with a pin for ages. With SG you just leave it soak for a few days (I found last least 4 was the best) and the paint just comes away with a light going over with a tooth brush. Its also fine to use on plastic! As aways C & C more than welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wulfebane Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Excellent tutorials you found (especially for the 13th). I'm gunna have to try out that sword blending technique. However, for the GS tut. I noticed that both the author and yourself seem to have left the braids rather flat (particularly the chin braids). Using a rounded/blunt edges sculpting tool and pushing at the sides where the GS meets the model might help puff it out a bit. http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m460219_99060205116_DwarfLordHammerMain_445x319.jpg As an example, these guys have more like thick corded rope-like braids which wouldn't necessarily be as big on SW's, but I would think them to be more rounded than what you've currently shown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barn Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Thats some great work fellow Victorian :D (From Seymour myself, and hour north of Melbourne) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 very nice weathering on the blade. My only critism is the silver scrapes need to be darkend with a wdelvlan mud wash. Also do they sell Simple green in the UK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wulfebane Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Oh, I meant to add earlier that I thought the details on the teeth and nails on your MotW was excellent. I also wanted to compliment your yellowed eyes and even that touch of red highlight on the eyelid. It's the subtleties that really make it pop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradimus Prime Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 very nice weathering on the blade. My only critism is the silver scrapes need to be darkend with a wdelvlan mud wash. Also do they sell Simple green in the UK? I've never come across it but I use Nitromors from B&Q to strip and clean metal models, its potent stuff so dont use it on plastic or resin. @ Dewi, lovely stuff mate keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nadir Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Also do they sell Simple green in the UK? Don't know about that, btu any break oil is good for cleaning miniatures (plastic and metal) from paint. After the day in a pot, the paint from your figure is easy to remove. But beware, most green stuff is going to be deastroyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Excellent tutorials you found (especially for the 13th). I'm gunna have to try out that sword blending technique. However, for the GS tut. I noticed that both the author and yourself seem to have left the braids rather flat (particularly the chin braids). Using a rounded/blunt edges sculpting tool and pushing at the sides where the GS meets the model might help puff it out a bit. Thanks for your comment, I see what you mean. Defiantly something I will work on. Thats some great work fellow Victorian <_< (From Seymour myself, and hour north of Melbourne) Yeah, been there once. The Misses used to live and work in Bendigo. I Love it down in Melbourne the place is amazing, helped by the fact that I live 5 mins from a GW and only 20 mins from Camberwell Battle bunker. PM me if you want to fix up some games at some point. very nice weathering on the blade. My only critism is the silver scrapes need to be darkend with a wdelvlan mud wash. Also do they sell Simple green in the UK? Thanks Beef, I've been not been back over the blade yet, I will once I get around to re-doing the Vindi. As its not in my 1500 list anymore (pops to many times in the first turn) so it may take a while. Found this site in the UK. LINK Its a bit more costly than over here but it only took about 2 ltrs to strip about 6000 points of Wolves. Might be worth shooting them an email to make sure that its of the same composition as the product sold in the US and AU. Oh and don't to forget, you can always buy it for the wife as a gift! :) Oh, I meant to add earlier that I thought the details on the teeth and nails on your MotW was excellent. I also wanted to compliment your yellowed eyes and even that touch of red highlight on the eyelid. It's the subtleties that really make it pop. Thanks mate. very nice weathering on the blade. My only critism is the silver scrapes need to be darkend with a wdelvlan mud wash. Also do they sell Simple green in the UK? I've never come across it but I use Nitromors from B&Q to strip and clean metal models, its potent stuff so dont use it on plastic or resin. @ Dewi, lovely stuff mate keep it up. Thanks Bradimus, You're right about Nitromors its good stuff on metal minis, just make sure you wear rubber gloves or your hand will end up looking like the MoW! Also do they sell Simple green in the UK? Don't know about that, btu any break oil is good for cleaning miniatures (plastic and metal) from paint. After the day in a pot, the paint from your figure is easy to remove. But beware, most green stuff is going to be deastroyed. I found DOT 4 brake fluid to be the best. Forgot to mention that about Simple Green. It will also soften GS so if you have any heavily converted minis, take care when you get stuck in with the tooth brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 Right here are a few pics of what I'm working on for the Summer Pledge. First off we have the RB. This is going to be armed with TLHB. I also have a Las-Plas turret ready to paint so I'll try and fit that in as well. As you can see the RB has the base colours laid down and a little highlight work that I did last night. Next we have the drop pod. Sorry its in landscape. Hoping to get the pod finish today. The RB is for my 400 Point Combat Patrol force. If you have never played combat patrol its a fantastic little game from 4th Ed rules. If you want the PDF give me a PM and I will be happy to send it to you. C&C welcome as always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus-92 Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Great work to be found in here, i really admire the weathering work on that vindi, i had a different method for paint chips but mine looks a little cartoony. How did you achieve yours? as far as i can tell its stippled metalics? Also wieghing in on the simple green discussion. if you use a sonic cleaner you can strip the models much quicker. infantry models might take about 40 mins. You just put them inside with some simple green and it vibrates for a while and speeds up the process. Also if your in melbourne you should check out the battle bunker in northcote. Its a great independent store with about 20 tables, 40k night is every wedenesday, usually about 20 people show up every week. i have not been to GW since i found out about it about a year ago. 388 high street northcote. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Hey Maximus thanks for the comment. For the battle damage I start by sponging on an 50/50 mix of Black and the undercoat colour. Once this is dry I sponge on a little of the colour that I use for the extreme highlight. After I have done this I go back and paint on a little Bolt Gun Metal where I think the paint would have chipped right down to the bare metal. Remember to keep the chipping to areas that would come in to contact with objects and where you would have metal on metal contact such as ladders and crew hatches. Try it on an old minis first as it took me a good few attempts to get a nice effect. The FW Modelling Masterclass is a fantastic book and has loads of cool little tricks if you can get hold of a copy. I have heard good things about sonic cleaners. Do you have one? Where do you recommend getting them from. I've played against a lad called Matt who has a killer Eldar army, as far as I'm aware he is a regular at the battle bunker. I'm only about 7km away and I'm free this coming Wed night so I might pop down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewi Sant Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Here is the Drop Pod that I have finished for the summer pledge. Just have to finish of my RB now. Hope you like it. C&C please brothers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaveriK Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 looks beautiful wolf brother! ehhh... so does this mean you can paint mine? LOL have an ale on me brother, you deserve it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendrik Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 how do you get your hazard stripes this clean?! i tried painting them on my pod and failed horrible edit; i also love the hazard stripes on the inside! i was going to paint mine metalllic but having hazard strips on them is so much cooler! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaveriK Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 how do you get your hazard stripes this clean?! i tried painting them on my pod and failed horrible edit; i also love the hazard stripes on the inside! i was going to paint mine metalllic but having hazard strips on them is so much cooler! personally I use masking tape or painters tape to keep things straight. Dewi Sant, might have done something different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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