Jump to content

Weathering a rhino, holy...


Brother Aiwass

Recommended Posts

I tried and...

 

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4403/pict0152z.jpg

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/290/pict01560.jpg

http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/2666/pict01540.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8256/pict0159i.jpg

 

I'm disapointed, any tips on 'how to' with only GW paints? Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paint the chipped areas black first, then boltgun metal, leaving the edges black. Highlight the edges of the chipped paint. If you can get some, weathering powder over the metal areas help a lot too. Here's an example, one of my Rhino's.

gallery_37532_5399_4986880.png

Hope this helps, man.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With weathering, less is usually more. Chipping should be sparing, and applied only to high-wear areas and edges. I use a small piece of sponge dipped in boltgun metal and dabbed dry for most chipping, and simple drybrushes of chaos black for scorching. Finish up with a drybrush / stipple of some muddy colour (I use VMC Leather brown here) to grub it up some at the bottom.

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/ultramarines1/rhino_1024.jpg

 

Edit: Heh, ninja'd on the less is more...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your model would benefit from more color on the details, too. For instance, the twin-linked Bolters are the same blue as the Rhino all over. So is the jerrycan on the back.

 

EDIT: I looked at your WIP log, and you obviously are more advanced than I am. Were you doing the weathering before finishing the detailing? I often think of that as something that is done after, but I have never tried damage as "thorough" as this.

 

What I meant to say in the original, unedited post, was that I think your weathering, if dialed back a notch, wouldn't look as bad as you apparently think it does if the other details were added.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, usually I do first the 'rough' work, then add the details. I hope you're right and when finished it looks better!

 

Try to advance a little and post some results soon, also a new try to weathering in other rhino with the above methods :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm experiencing the same trouble but with a Black Templars Predator...

Problem is, on black all the "trompe l'oeil" effects can't be applied, like blacklining the weathering to give it some realistic shade/layer effect. I do the black edge in white, as it shows a little more detail, but it's still unconvincing. Same goes for mud, scorched brown turns red-ish when applied on black, it's kinda hard...and impossible to find a good weathered BT, Iron Hand or Raven Guard vehicle around the internet ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scorched brown is NOT a good mud colour. Try drybrushing graveyard earth then kommando khaki then very lightly deneb stone.

 

Tromp l'oeil chipping on black relies on two things - the highlight under the chip and a lesser highlight above it, which is best gained by your black actually being a very very dark grey smoothly blended to pure black in shadow. To avoid the blending, or in situations where you're already working on a light area and need the chips to have more definition, try painting the chip with codex grey/black mix (just a touch darker than codex grey), then putting a fortress grey line at the bottom of it, then blacking the middle of the chip/scratch. This gives the effect of puckering the paintwork out from the chip. Remember that to keep it looking black you need the highlights to be thin and very sharp. Any 'greyness' can be smoothed away with black glazes for a clean look or by dusting the whole model (either drybrush or airbrush). That's pretty much the technique on this dreadnought's power fist.:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/ultramarines2/chap_dread_done1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm experiencing the same trouble but with a Black Templars Predator...

Problem is, on black all the "trompe l'oeil" effects can't be applied, like blacklining the weathering to give it some realistic shade/layer effect. I do the black edge in white, as it shows a little more detail, but it's still unconvincing. Same goes for mud, scorched brown turns red-ish when applied on black, it's kinda hard...and impossible to find a good weathered BT, Iron Hand or Raven Guard vehicle around the internet :(

Agree with Winterdyne here!!......Excellent Dread by the way!!!!!

But you could also darken you boltgun metal with black and use that as your base layer for your scratch and work outwards with lighter boltgun metal leaving the darker paint on the edges and as you go to the middle of the scratch use something like chainmail metal for the shinier raised part/exposed part of the battle damage...wear and tear. Hope that makes sense....... :huh:

gallery_30735_5415_802720.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With weathering, less is usually more. Chipping should be sparing, and applied only to high-wear areas and edges. I use a small piece of sponge dipped in boltgun metal and dabbed dry for most chipping, and simple drybrushes of chaos black for scorching. Finish up with a drybrush / stipple of some muddy colour (I use VMC Leather brown here) to grub it up some at the bottom.

 

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/ultramarines1/rhino_1024.jpg

 

Edit: Heh, ninja'd on the less is more...

 

A bit off topic, but I've been meaning to ask this since the first time I saw this rhino; where do you get your scale ammo crates, drums, and accessorries of the like? Is that tamyia stuff??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On this one all the stuff is off the old IG vehicle accessories sprue. I think the tow cable is from a vindi... the net I nicked off a mate, and the leaves are from atenociti's workshop. Tamiya 1/35 and 1/48 jerry can and barrel kits are handy now and then.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my progress so far:

 

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/642/pict0015nq.jpg

 

From left to right my takes on...

 

Zxyogi: Not sure about the results, maybe I need to go with a darker metal basecoat. I used 50% chaos black and 50% boltgun metal. Lights with chainmail.

 

Ravenous (from Warseer): The sponge wasn't very good, so the outcome isn't, but it's more or less the same technique than the 1000heathens one. I need to improve that.

 

1000heathens: The best outcome imho, due the contrast, but also implies that I must hightlight the whole rhino. Maybe a mix of this with Ravenous' method can work.

 

Spongebob: Another good result, but i think that can get better with a darker grey instead of codex grey.

 

And, more or less, Winterdyne's method:

 

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7920/pict0098f.jpg

 

Still undecided, but advancing a little, thank you all! :)

 

EDIT: BTW, I started a 'weathering for noobs' tutorial here.

 

C&C very welcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update:

 

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9775/pict00340.jpg

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/6410/pict0030r0.jpg

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9117/pict0031o0.jpg

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8448/pict0033rr.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/880/pict0032t.jpg

 

The result is not what I was aiming, but anyways I like how it's going. I have two more rhinos to "update" so I want to go with a one more hardcore mode on one of them.

 

Still WIP of course. Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll be honest and say that personally it looks a little worse than it did originally..

 

Orginally it looked scratched and damaged, but now just as Ecritter put it, it looks too rusted and about to fall into pieces.

 

Still go for the less is more option, not huge patches of rust and metal :), small scratches and chips, simple as.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having been formerly a mechanized infantryman assigned to an armor company, even when you're in the field training constantly (this was long before the war) the amount of pain chipping is minimal... Certainly, there are never parts of the vehicle that are chipped so that an area bigger than a man's torso is exposed down to the bare metal.

 

Even in Baghdad (where I've been twice, though not as an infantryman anymore), the amount of chipping and weathering on vehicles is minor. Part of everyday maintenance is keeping the vehicles clean, removing large quantities of dirt, etc., and repainting chipped areas when needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot for the feedback! :)

 

I know that is a bit too much, but when I've worked in the above described methods, I found this: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=203229 and, oh well, you know... I got carried away :D

 

Anyways, good to know actual stuff about tank chipping. The next rhino would have less rust and damage ^_^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, here's my tip, when you do chipping and weathering damages use a sponge, don't use metallic to the damages, use some sort of grey/brown/black. Your rhino looks good but it looks like more like a renegade rhino. I play chaos and I use a brownblackish paint to make my damages. And don't forget that the sun will fall on the same side on the edges. And if you will do your vehicles damaged I think that you should do your marines with damages also.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t20/C0rbin/Foto0451.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t20/C0rbin/Foto0448.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.