Lestat Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Recently I managed to pick up the Games Day 2009 (I think) Space Marine Captain BNIB for a pittance. I decided to paint him up as a Lamenter purely because they happen to be my favourite BA successor. He's still very WIP at the moment. Got some tidying up to do on the checks and some highlighting and shading to do. Havn't desided what colour to do his hair yet - I think the traditional BA blonde will be lost against his yellow armour. Any C&C are more than welcome. Aplogies for the slightly fuzzy pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattCrawford Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Sorry, didn't see this was WIP. Just try thinning your paints out a bit more as you go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnorriSnorrison Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I echo what MattCrawford said, thinning your paints is essential to get a smooth finish. Further, your base colour looks like it was drybrushed on - which is not a good idea most of the time. Especially not with yellow, and even with foundation paints the result looks not as good as if you layered the base colour. Well, that's my recommendation...layer your basecoats so you can work up from there properly with glazes, shadings and highlights. For the next step, some glazes with yellow(ink) can help to achieve a bright yellow, followed by some brown shadings in the recesses, then highlighting up with bleached bone and skull white. :P I hope this was of use. :huh: Snorri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lestat Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 I echo what MattCrawford said, thinning your paints is essential to get a smooth finish. Further, your base colour looks like it was drybrushed on - which is not a good idea most of the time. Especially not with yellow, and even with foundation paints the result looks not as good as if you layered the base colour. Well, that's my recommendation...layer your basecoats so you can work up from there properly with glazes, shadings and highlights. For the next step, some glazes with yellow(ink) can help to achieve a bright yellow, followed by some brown shadings in the recesses, then highlighting up with bleached bone and skull white. ;) I hope this was of use. :huh: Snorri Thanks for the tips. I have been thinning my paints - just not as much as most people recommend. I find the milky consistancy a little too runny to work with and takes ages to dry. I've still got to work through highlights and shading yet - it's nowhere near finished. I don't have any yellow ink, but I have been using thinned down Gryphonne sepia. As I said, he's still very WIP at the moment and definately not drybrushed in any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnorriSnorrison Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks for the tips. I have been thinning my paints - just not as much as most people recommend. I find the milky consistancy a little too runny to work with and takes ages to dry. I've still got to work through highlights and shading yet - it's nowhere near finished. I don't have any yellow ink, but I have been using thinned down Gryphonne sepia. As I said, he's still very WIP at the moment and definately not drybrushed in any way. Well, the drybrushed look might have been due to the pics then. Yes, the milky consistency is really annoying sometimes, but it's really worth it. :) Yellow ink is simply thinned down Sunburst Yellow and some dish liquid. When you're done with the basecoat, you could glaze that on and achieve an incredibly smooth yellow finish. Gryphonne Sepia has a nice shade for yellow and complements the primary colour very well indeed. ;) Hope to see some pics soon then. :) Snorri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lestat Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks for the tips. I have been thinning my paints - just not as much as most people recommend. I find the milky consistancy a little too runny to work with and takes ages to dry. I've still got to work through highlights and shading yet - it's nowhere near finished. I don't have any yellow ink, but I have been using thinned down Gryphonne sepia. As I said, he's still very WIP at the moment and definately not drybrushed in any way. Well, the drybrushed look might have been due to the pics then. Yes, the milky consistency is really annoying sometimes, but it's really worth it. :) Yellow ink is simply thinned down Sunburst Yellow and some dish liquid. When you're done with the basecoat, you could glaze that on and achieve an incredibly smooth yellow finish. Gryphonne Sepia has a nice shade for yellow and complements the primary colour very well indeed. ;) Hope to see some pics soon then. :) Snorri What sort of quatitiees would you recommend to make the yellow ink? Is it a simple 1:1:1 mix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnorriSnorrison Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 One part yellow, about 4-5 parts water and a small drop of dish liquid. that stuff breaks up the tension of the water so it won't leave any stains on the surface of the miniature. so a simple 1/4-5/1 mix. :) Snorri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lestat Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 One part yellow, about 4-5 parts water and a small drop of dish liquid. that stuff breaks up the tension of the water so it won't leave any stains on the surface of the miniature. so a simple 1/4-5/1 mix. :blink: Snorri Thanks for the quantities. I'll give that a go over the next day or two and get some pics posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lestat Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Righty-ho folks, I've given Snorri's tips a go and these are the results so far. Not as neat as I would have hoped, but I think with a little practice with the inks, I'll get there eventually. I'm going to try a thinned down yellow wash to try and blend the sepia shading and the yellow ink together a bit more. And yes, I've already spotted the large white blob of an eye. I need to correct that too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnorriSnorrison Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Nice work man! I think the yellow looks really great, only a few touch ups here and there where the ink flowed on the handle of the thunderhammer. :D So, did you had any problems and are you satisfied with the overall result? Snorri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lestat Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Nice work man! I think the yellow looks really great, only a few touch ups here and there where the ink flowed on the handle of the thunderhammer. ;)So, did you had any problems and are you satisfied with the overall result? Snorri No problems at all - just never used inks before (or knew how to make them!) I think i'll be experimenting a lot more with inks now. The hammer needs a few touch ups and the head to be finished - but I'm kind of liking the black with silver edges. I think a better lighting rig has helped with the photos too - they're not so blurry now! Once again, thanks for the tips Snorri. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Black Shadow Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Yellow ink is simply thinned down Sunburst Yellow and some dish liquid. This is incorrect. Yellow ink (more specifically, in this context: acrylic pigment ink) is low-viscosity acrylic polymer emulsion that has a high density of extremely fine yellow pigment in order for it to behave in a manner similar to dye. In order to dilute the vehicle of a yellow paint (e.g. citadel sunburst yellow) to the viscosity of yellow acrylic ink, you would have something with incredibly low density of pigment, yet would still have the same ratio of pigment to binder as the undiluted paint once dry (although dispersed and unlinked due to the high amount of solvent). To wit... inks have more pigment per unit of medium than undiluted paint, and are thinner at application. Furthermore, while it is true that yellow paints and yellow inks generally both use transparent/translucent pigments, when you get into other colors, e.g. black, sepia, blue, etc. the pigments in ink will generally be transparent or translucent while the pigments in paint will generally be opaque. If you're looking for a good acrylic ink, I am fond of Daler Rowney's acrylic inks. Their Brilliant Yellow is nearly identical in color to Citadel's old yellow ink, and dilutes better. And dish liquid? I'm not sure I'd recommend that, especially for minis that people plan to game with. Go to your local art supply store and buy a bottle of flow aid (available for $4 and change most places) or similar and it will last you as long/longer than dish soap, and it won't contain alcohols, skin moisturizers, fragrances, and other things that will lessen the adhesion of your paints and change their chemistry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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