 +++ Black Templar Resource +++, For all your BT hobby and gaming needs! |
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  Aug 14 2006, 11:53 PM
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 ++MANUS NOCENTIBUS++  Group: ++ MODERATI CEDO ++ Posts: 2010 Joined: 11-July 03 From: Aalborg, DK Member No.: 6637 Chapter Name:Black Templars  |
Welcome to the Black Templar Resource!
This thread is intended to provide links to useful material for all BT players and collectors. It is a living document which is open to critique, revisions and new additions. PM the Moderators if you have suggestions. If you are new to the eternal crusade, be sure to sign in at the +++ Situation Report +++.  Background of the Black Templars
Black Templar Rules and Tactica
Modelling and Painting Black Templars
Black Templar Showcase
This post has been edited by DasPanzerIstUber: Mar 15 2010, 12:21 AM
Reason for edit: Updated format.
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Aug 15 2006, 01:26 AM
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++MANUS NOCENTIBUS++ Group: ++ MODERATI CEDO ++ Posts: 2010 Joined: 11-July 03 From: Aalborg, DK Member No.: 6637 Chapter Name:Black Templars |
+Black Templar ICONgraphy and Heraldry - a continuance of the WD #298+ By PsychosisPC
I received a PM from RandomX about this and just the other day got around to reading WD 298 and saw all of the neat SM goodness. So I thought I would repost some of the my ideas that I developed when I was assembling the Cerluean Templar Crusade. Feel free to use these as you please, as I begin my journey over to the darkside.  <!--ImageUrlBegin--><!--ImageUrlEBegin-->  <!--ImageUrlEnd--><!--ImageUrlEEnd--><!--ImageUrlBegin--><!--ImageUrlEBegin-->  <!--ImageUrlEnd--><!--ImageUrlEEnd-->---PPC +Additions+ By Marshal Barbarossa  Just thought I'd add a few of my own... The ones on the right can be used as a crozius as i did on my chappy here.. <!--ImageUrlBegin--><!--ImageUrlEBegin-->  <!--ImageUrlEnd--><!--ImageUrlEEnd-->Close up  More +Additions+ By Brother 'Ussell (prot added Feb/07) Here's some submissions for the Iconography and heraldry section. Nothing too fancy, just some sorta generic BT type stuff.      I have these in larger formats too around 1200 x 1200 and 200kb in size any comments or maybe ideas for some more stuff is welcomed  +MORE CONTRIBUTIONS WELCOME+ This post has been edited by prot: Feb 15 2007, 06:42 PM |
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Aug 15 2006, 01:39 AM
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++MANUS NOCENTIBUS++ Group: ++ MODERATI CEDO ++ Posts: 2010 Joined: 11-July 03 From: Aalborg, DK Member No.: 6637 Chapter Name:Black Templars |
Von Richthofen's Vindicator Conversion Guide
+++ACCESSING STC TEMPLATE DATA+++ +++Loading………done+++ +++TEXT CONVERSION…… IMPERIAL LOW GOTHIC+++ +++Translating…………………………… done+++ +++IMAGIFIER DATA DISPLAY SCREEN+++ +++Active+++ Greetings fellow Adepts, The STC template data attached contains the conversion details for the newly discovered “Vindicus�? pattern Space Marine Vindicator tank. Discovered on the world of Orel by the Black Templars of the Vindicus Crusade, the tank was heavily used before receiving approval from the Adeptus Mechanicus. Since its acceptance into the Imperial STC database, it has shown up in many other Adeptus Astartes Chapters, perhaps due to its rather simple conversion from the standard Rhino chassis, and the abundance of appropriate materials for building this “field Vindicator�? (so named in that it can literally be constructed on site). Please view my notes below. For the Emperor! Adept Gravos "Vindicus Pattern�? Vindicator Tank STEP 1: GATHERING YOUR SUPPLIES In order to build this kit, you will need the following materials: - 1x Space Marine Rhino OR Sisters of Battle Immolator (preferred) kit. - 2x 25mm bases (round, without slots) - Bits to build or convert a Demolisher Cannon (I will make suggestions below) - Green stuff or other modelling putty (just for gap filling) - A sharp knife, model glue, files, etc. NOTE: If the Immolator is used, as it is in this guide, a Space Marine vehicle accessory sprue may be needed. STEP 2: ASSEMBLING THE CHASSIS - Assemble the body of the main body of the rhino, leaving off the front plate and top doors/razorback hatch, and add the Immolator top plate to the tank. Set the front plate and razorback hatch aside for later, as both will likely be used. It should look like picture #1. - Take the Immolator’s top hatch, and the top hatch doors from the SM vehicle sprue. It is likely that you will have to trim the ‘hinge’ edges off the hatch doors to make them fit. This should look like picture #2. - Assemble the storm bolter (either the SoB or SM ones will work just fine) and glue it to the hatch, as shown in picture #3. You will have to trim the antennas off the hatch, as it provides the best place to glue the storm bolter into position. If you want to have the hatch attached magnetically (so you can remove it for storage), read the section at the end of the guide. Take the extra door from the Immolator sprue and glue it into place over the back hole of the top plate. You will have to trim it to fit (removing the door’s “teeth�?), and there will be a slight gap that will be filled in with green stuff later. It is much easier to fill in if you place the door so that the gap is very small on both sides of it. All of this can also be seen in picture #3. STEP 3: ASSEMBLING THE FRONT PLATES - Take the rhino’s top plate (the part with the hole and vent used for the razorback and predator kits) and decide which side you want to face forward (the door, or the vent). I chose the vent side, because the raised rim in on that side and it would make the cannon (which will be mounted in the hole) look more substantial. Assuming you also choose this side, you will need to file down some thing around the edges on the backside, such as the doors and the little details on the other side. For what this will look like, see picture #4. - Once the top place has been converted into your new upper-front plate, glue it into place as shown in picture #5. You may choose to have the cannon set to the right or the left, depending on your personal preference. - Now, you must prepare the lower-front plate. As you may notice by looking at the bottom of your vindicator, the top plate does not perfectly fit near the bottom… it sticks out and looks awkward. There are a number or ways to fix this. If you take the rhino top plate, you can cut it to size (keeping the bottom part with the thicker armour and discarding the windows) and fit that into place. This is what I did for my Vindicator. The example one built here uses the top door from the Land Raider sprue, since I had a spare one thanks to the BT sprue. You will have to trim the pegs slightly to make it fit, but otherwise it’s a good choice, and far easier than using the rhino’s front plate. See picture #6. To see how the tank should look from the front now, see picture #7. Some green stuff may be required for gap filling behind where the upper and lower front plates meet. - In the recessed spaces on either side of your front plate, glue the rhino’s headlights. This is the best place for them as they cover any gap left between the front plate and the body of the tank. See the end results pictures if you need to see what I mean. STEP 4: BUILDING THE CANNON - This step is entirely optional. There are a number of ways to assemble the cannon, including just ordering a demolisher cannon bit from GW (for either the old Vindicator, or the Leman Russ). Also, glueing together two "wheels" (one large, one small) from the IG Tank Wheel sprue looks very good (and is very easy), but is quite expensive for two wheels. Only go this option of you want to make lots of Vindicators, or find my cannon too difficult to construct. However, assuming you want to make your own from plastic things you may have lying around, I’ll walk you through the process I used. - First, you need to take two 25mm infantry bases and glue them back-to-back. This will serve as the cannon mount. No matter what materials you use for the cannon, this part is key. See picture #8. - From the SM vehicle sprue, the top hatch ring (the one without the arm for the storm bolter) will become our cannon sensor (and Power of the Machine Spirit, if you desire to use it). The only modification to this part is simple. The area with the three sensors will be the top, so the bottom needs to have the square area with the antenna removed, so that the part is rounded all around. - Take an extra oil barrel from your scenery supplies and (before gluing the halves together) cut off a 1/3rd section of the barrel off each half (one of the two ends). If you are satisfied that your cut is straight, glue the two halves of the barrel together, and then glue it into the cannon sensor so that the closed end of the barrel is “face down�? and the hole is pointing outwards. See picture #9. - The cannon now needs an outer ring. There are many ways to do this (find a washer of appropriate size, for example) but I used the Marine vehicle crew bit from the SM vehicle sprue. This bit can be seen in picture #10. You have to cut away the marines body so that all is left is the lower ring. This is a rather difficult process, but the part fits perfectly in size with the cannon, so that’s why I did it. The finished ring may need to be filed down some, especially inside of the hole to make it perfectly round. The finished product is visible in picture #11. - Once you have the outer ring ready, you can glue it onto the cannon. Some green stuff may be required to fill in the gaps. You can then glue the whole cannon assembly to the cannon mount (the two bases). See picture #12. STEP 5: FINAL ASSEMBLY - The cannon should sit into the hole of your front plate loosely. I recommend getting the cannon facing straight forward (not angled to the side or up) as much as possible; test fit it before gluing. You should be able to get the top of the mount (the bases) to touch the top of the front plate’s hole, so you won’t need to fill this in. If you can’t quite get it right, green stuff is again the key. Otherwise, you can cover up the hole with a bit… on my Vindicator, I used one of the rhino radar dishes, glued face-down, and then filled in the much smaller gaps around it. - Remember that the cannon sensor ring should have the three ‘windows’ at the top. These can be painted as screens to represent the targeting system for the cannon, or the “power of the machine�? spirit upgrade. - Once you are happy with your cannon fit, glue it into place, and voila! One finished Vindicator! - You can now add any extra bits you want to spruce it up. I suggest using purity seals to cover up any small gaps (like where the headlights were glued into place). Also, go over the areas in which I mentioned (top door, cannon mount and cannon ring, front plates) and fill in any gaps you might have missed. View the end results pictures to see where I used green stuff, and glued the rhino headlights. Finished Tank, Top Right Side. Finished Tank, Top Left Side. Finished Tank, Left Side. Finished Tank, Right Side. Finished Tank, Front. Finished Tank, Top. Although this is not the Tank assembled in this guide, see my Black Templars Vindicator. It uses almost exactly the same process (just had a different under-front plate, and note the 'face down' radar dish on the cannon mount.) OPTIONAL STEP: MAGNETIZING THE STORM BOLTER - If you want the storm bolter to be removable, or to turn without falling out all the time, a rather simple process can be used to attach it with a magnet, two quarters, and a dime (assuming Canadian or American money). - Take the storm bolter hatch part, and cut/file out the four plastic ‘braces’ on the underside, so that a dime will fit inside. Picture #01 will demonstrate by showing both the filed-out hatch, and the dime glued in place. A rare-earth magnet is then attached to the dime (no glue, just place it there). - Take two quarters, and glue one in the centre of the front hole in the top plate of the Vindicator. You may need to cut off some details from the Rhino’s top hatch to make it work. The other quarter is not glued in, but placed on the rare-earth magnet that should still be attached to the dime. The reason for using two quarters is that it slightly weakens the bond between the storm bolter’s hatch and the quarter glued into the tank, and it also fills the gap (and prevents the glued-in quarter from getting torn out by the magnet). The magnet will hold the quarter and the dime together very strongly, but the two quarters will have a slightly less strong bond… perfect for holding the hatch in place and allowing it to turn, but not so strong that you will need a knife to pry it off. See pictures #02, 03, and 04, to see an illustration of the steps. Finally, picture #05 shows the end result. Hope you find this useful as you seek to convert your own plastic Vindicator. If you have any questions about any of the steps, just PM me and I'll be glad to assist you. -Von Richthofen This post has been edited by Templar14: Dec 24 2008, 03:41 PM |
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Aug 15 2006, 01:53 AM
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++MANUS NOCENTIBUS++ Group: ++ MODERATI CEDO ++ Posts: 2010 Joined: 11-July 03 From: Aalborg, DK Member No.: 6637 Chapter Name:Black Templars |
+++SPRUE INVENTORY LIST+++
This list is structured as follows ++Sprue Name and Code++ +Body Parts tally+ (torso, leg and shoulder pad components) +Weapons/Wargear tally+ (things relevant to army list options) +Misc+ (things that don't fit in the above categories, scrolls, icons, etc) ------------------ +++THE LIST+++ ++BLACK TEMPLARS CRUSADER SPRUE (99390101014)++
6 heads (2 knightly helmets, 2 ornate helmets, 1 mk4 helmet, 1 bare heaad 5 front torsos (3 tabards, 1 high collar, 1 mk4) 1 backpack 12 power armour shoulder pads 5 terminator armoured shoulder pads 2 terminator heraldry shields +WEAPONS/WARGEAR+ 3 sets of bp/ccw arms 4 sets of bolter arms 1 powerfist 2 power weapons 3 assault weapons (melta, plasma, flamer) 3 crusader seals 1 holstered bp 1 sheathed (power?) sword 1 orb of antioch 1 auspex +MISC+ 3 plain flat-backed chapter icons 2 ornate flat-backed chapter icons (sword and winged) 2 scrolls (open and rolled up) 2 lanterns 1 bone shrine 1 back banner 1 accessory pouch ++BLACK TEMPLARS VEHICLE UPGRADE SPRUE (99390101015)++
2 ornate land raider side doors 2 ornate rhino side doors 1 ornate land raider front hatch top 1 ornate rhino front plate +MISC+ 1 black templar dreadnought sarcophagus cover plate 1 black templar cross (flat backed) with attached latern 1 black templar cross with attached banner/parchment 1 banner pole for above cross ++SPRUE SPACE MARINE COMMAND (99380101017)++ (expensive, consider buying the whole box)
3 heads (1 knightly helmet, 1 massive targetter array helmet, 1 bare head) 2 front torsos (1 loincloth+raised collar, 1 apothecary) 4 backpacks (3 regular, 1 apothecary) 12 shoulder pads (5 termie honors, 1 each of standard bearer, apothecary and regular, 2 deathwatch, 2 champion) 1 pointing arm 1 apothecary arm +WEAPONS/WARGEAR+ 1 powerfist arm 1 powersword arm 2 sets of bp/ccw arms 2 sets of bolter arms 1 ornate bolter 3 assault weapons (melta, plasma, flamer) 1 bolt pistol/combat shield arm 1 auspex 2 purity seals 1 standard bearer banner + arm +MISC+ 1 back banner 1 loincloth 1 hanging cloth (for loincloth or shoulder pad) 1 hanging scroll (toilet roll type) 3 banner tops (2 vanilla, 1 ultramarines) 1 hanging terminator medallion/rosarius 1 bone shrine 1 laurel wreath 1 hanging scroll tubes
3 heads (1 bionic eye helmet, 1 rebreather mask head, 1 bare head) 1 full body (plain legs, roped front torso, cloaked back torso) 6 shoulder pads (1 each of deathwatch, termie honors, ultramarines, skull-eagle, scroll, scroll/circle) 2 right arms without hands 1 eagle head backpack +WEAPONS/WARGAR+ 2 combiweapons (melta, plasma) with hands 1 storm bolter with hand 1 bolt pistol with hand 1 plasma pistol with targetter and hand 1 holstered bolt pistol 1 powerfist arm 1 lightning claw arm 1 power sword arm 1 chainsword bionic arm 1 Iron halo 2 purity seals +MISC+ 1 back banner with embossed laurel wreath and circle 1 leather strap loincloth 1 loincloth 4 flat-backed amulets (terminator cross, 2 winged skulls, 1 DA)
1 bare head 1 mk8 front and rear torso +WEAPONS/WARGEAR+ 1 missile launcher set with arms and extra ammo 1 set of bp/ccw arms 1 flamer +MISC+ 1 back banner pole (no banner)
1 knightly helmet 1 chest plate with chainmail loincloth 1 raised rim shoulder plate +WEAPONS/WARGEAR+ 1 heavy bolter with arms and ammo belt 1 powerfist arm (pointing) 1 power sword arm 1 plasma pistol arm +MISC+ trophy spike with impaled head and SM helmet This post has been edited by Von Richthofen: Dec 24 2007, 04:33 PM |
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Aug 15 2006, 02:57 AM
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#5
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++MANUS NOCENTIBUS++ Group: ++ MODERATI CEDO ++ Posts: 2010 Joined: 11-July 03 From: Aalborg, DK Member No.: 6637 Chapter Name:Black Templars |
+PAINTING WORKSHOP 1: The traditional approach+
model preperation tips - TIP1:remember to carefully scrape off the mold lines from the individual parts as you remove them from the sprue - TIP2: try to leave off the shoulderpads until after the models are painted. This will help getting the white sholder pads done without twenty thousand layers of white over a black undercoat. - TIP 3: don’t glue the bolters/special weapons in place before painting as this will create irritating hard-to-reach places when it is time to paint. - TIP 4: for the strongest bonds, use polystyrene cement for bonding plastic to plastic, and superglue for metal-on-metal, or metal-on-plastic bonds Painting basics (Heavily inspired by Commander Y): The “most common” way of painting your Templars is Black armour, with white shoulder pads and chest eagle, red or green eyes and metallic/black or red weapon casings. This article assumes that you will adhere to this scheme, more or less, but they are your models, and you should feel free to paint them any color that strikes your fancy. +Useful colors to buy+ 1) Black Spray primer 2) Games workshop chaos black (undercoat) 3) Vallejo Black Grey (highlight 1) 4) Vallejo Dark Grey (highlight 2) 5) GW Boltgun metal 6) GW Black ink 7) GW Skull White 8) GW Smelly primer 9) some shade of red (or green, or both), depending on how bright you want it. 10) Testor’s Dullcote spray (to give a unified matte finish and to protect the finished paintjob) - TIP: By adding a tiny amount of dishsoap to your mixing palette, you break the surface tension of the paint, and this helps you put the paint where you want it to go. 1) Prepping. Give your models a soapy bath and a quick gentle scrub with an old toothbrush to get the mold lubricants off the plastic, then let them dry completely. This really helps paint adhere to your models. 2) Priming. Line up 5-10 models at a time outside, somewhere where you can make a mess without ruining anything. It should not be too warm, too cold, too humid or too windy. Let the models sit for about 20 minutes prior to priming to get the plastic to match the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air, this will help prevent primer accidents. Shake the primer can until you believe it has been shaken enough. Then shake it for just as long afterwards just to make sure (better safe than sorry. A bad priming job can really ruin your day) 3) Undercoat of Chaos black (thin paints about 50% with water, experiment to fit the exact thinning ratio to your liking, thinner coats look better when dry, thicker coats cover better and thus requires less numbers of coats to give good coverage... but for this undercoat, you really don’t need that much coverage ability, so thin away). For the rest of the paintjob, I am going to refer to the Superb “One hour Templar” Thread posted by Cmdr Y. Where he demonstrates his “Quick and dirty approach” to speedpainting Templars. (Dr. Faust has an alternative method HERE) QUOTE originally posted by Cmdr Y The black was first painted all over with thinned-down chaos black. The thinness helps it flow easier, for faster painting, and helps bring the black undercoat up to the "right" black. Then it was given a single highlight of Vallejo Black Grey as fast as I could go, along every single edge that I could reach with the brush. I used the flat of the brush at a 45-degree angle to the surface (edging) whenever I could, because that forces neatness even though you're going fast. Then I did all the metal bits... a premix I have of black and Boltgun, followed by a single boltgun highlight. The Red was based with Vallejo Burnt Cadmium Red, Then given a single highlight of Vallejo Red. Eyes got a second highlight, disappeared from the photos, of some Vallejo Vermillion (Blazing Orange-ish), and since there was still some on the brush, I did the tiip of the sword casing with it too. Then the bone and parchment, with Vallejo Flat Earth (could use Vermin Brown), Bronzed Flesh, and Bleached Bone. Pads got a coat of Vallejo Deck Tan, some very watered down shadow grey along the edges of the rims, and then 3 or 4 coats of thinned white. Touched up the black pad rims quick, and then some gloss on the blank pad. Cut out the decal, trim away excess film, soak, apply, Solvaset, hairdryer... Matte varnish on the pad. Pigma Micron pen 005 black for the scribblies. Ah, the chest eagle was a quick coat of Shadow Grey followed by a couple messy drybrushes of skull white. Base was based with watery Scorched Brown, to get down in between all the sand texture, (blowdryer), then drybrushed Graveyard Earth and Kommando Khaki. Rim in Scorched Brown. Using this as a template, simple improvements can be made in the following ways 1) Be neat. Go back and cover your mistakes. Kurgan_The_Lurker has referred to miniature painting as “3D painting by numbers” and if you think of the basic painting stage this way, I am sure you will agree that staying within the delineated area is a crucial first step to painting good looking miniatures. 2) Clean up the chest eagle by doing a more careful drybrush, or alternatively, paint the eagle white, shade with extremely thin black ink, and retouch the high parts of the eagle with white. 3) Shoulderpads. This is not an improvement per say, but a time saver. If you leave them off, you can prime them white, and give them one or two thin coats of skull white. Cmdr Y’s grey stripe next to the rim can be duplicated by adding a thin stripe of black using a 005 micron pen after the primer but before the skull white coat. 4) The GW Black Gobbo E-zine has posted an article on how to paint Space marine eye lenses HERE - that also works with gems. +STILL ACCEPTING PAINTING RECIPES OF ALL KINDS+ -------------------- |
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