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Super Heavy Land Raider Exterminus Project


DogmaRaider

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@The Emperor's Champion: You are right on target. The drawings that you did are awesome. You’re thinking right along the same lines as Shortsonfire79 on the Librarium Online forum who also came up with an awesome drawing as well. I actually came up with a very similar Photoshopped drawing using the blueprints from IA2 as well but was too chicken to post it because of the GW copyright people.

 

In my drawing I used the LR with the extra armor though as it made the vehicle look ever tougher than it is. One thing I different I do plan to do however is make the fuselage wider so you can accommodate more men or equipment inside. I played around with the wide before and my thinking is approximately 1.5 times wider than the current Land Raider model. Twice the width looks too wide and “landingcraftish”.

 

That bunker portion on the top also looks spectacular as well. From this basic design that I’m outlining you can go in a hundred different directions with it and it still maintains that Space Marine looking shape and style.

 

@The_Chaplain: I haven’t really thought of ornamentation yet. Right now I’m still dealing with getting the base up and working. Actually this project for now is only to get the base of vehicles up and working. This is after all a present for my two friends so I don’t want to go too far since it’s their vehicles.

 

But not to worry, I’ve already made arrangements such that after I get the general base up, I’ll be starting a Grey Knights version of this vehicle and I plan to go all out on that vehicle. After that we may expand this project further to a pre-heresy version of the vehicle using the Forgeworld kit (got the idea from reading some posts from the thread on Librarium Online).

 

@lhg033: I have seen that tank during my research and you’re right it is very cool. My idea for going smaller was to make something a bit more practicle to deploy and use but still deliver a good amount of firepower and transport capacity. Also the base of the LRE is much more affordable although I admit I haven’t shown you guys all the FW accessories that I’ve purchase for this project yet…..

 

@Terminatorinhell: I’ve seen that turret many different places so far but also don’t know where it comes from. It kind of looks like the Armageddon pattern basilisk enclosure but modified obviously. If anyone has any ideas please let me know as well.

 

I got all the measurements for the post but rather than confuse the heck out of everyone with the measurements and quick post now, I'll wait till next week in order to outline the tunnel. That way I'll be able to properly prepare blueprints and such for a much easier explanation. I have the floor of the hatch tunnel done for the regular Space Marine Land Raider Exterminus but I want to get the ceiling and side walls done as well. I'm still debating over Ahriman's Chariot. Look for a post next week!

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@DogmaRaider: I look at it this way, if they don't like my pretty picture they can tell me and take it off; but 'til then I'm gonna post it. I think you mostly just need to keep it "within reason" and no one really cares too much.

 

The turret looks to me like the one off of the Challenger II tank with a modified EarthShaker Cannon.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now remember everything we're doing here is optional. Technically you could just seal up the hatches and not have to worry about this but what fun would that be? After some cardboard trial and errors, I found that the following measurements are perfect for creating a tunnel between the two hatch sections.

 

Floor Panel Dimensions: 21 mm x 25 mm

Angled Panel Dimensions: 26 mm x 25 mm

Side Panel Dimensions: 3 mm x 25 mm

 

The magic number in this instance is 25 mm. From the edge of the lip of the external hatch lip to approximately flush with the door on the internal track. In the internal tests, this held the sliding doors in place while keeping them firmly on the track just like the standard track setup.

 

This is also the first opportunity that I've had in this project to add detail. I could just cut the plain plasticard peices but that would just be a crime. For the Space Marine LRE, we're going to go with a practice design mixed in with some crypt and stone like elements (candles, etc.). I'm trying not to go too overboard and this portion of the model will hardly ever be seen but still make it look nice. To facilitate this I need to make some green stuff molds of detail peices I already have unfortunately I'm out of green stuff so I've put it on order.

 

Stepping away from the hatch tunnels for a second I also have started to think about the track covers. While I wait for some supplies to arrive for the hatch tunnel, I'm going to switch back to exterior of the tank. To do this I used a jewlers saw and very small drill bit to drill holes to allow the saw to turn.

 

Track Tops - Hole Alignment - Left Side

Track Tops - Hole Alignment - Right Side

Track Tops - After Cutting

Track Tops - Final

 

As you can see, I cut holes where the sharp corners are which allowed the saw to turn. Later on we'll use thse top track sections as part of the coverings. The external regular sized track section will remain as it is. The internal longer track top section will be split in half and elongated with additional detail later.

 

Next time we'll be putting the detail on our internal hatch tunnel sections for the Space Marine LRE and starting to get the "soul" of Ahriman's Chariot. You also may have noticed that I've slowed down on this project as of late. Currently I'm trying to juggle this project along with my Imperial Cadian 1st Gatekeepers project. This week I spent more time on the Cadians that this project. The size and scope of that project make this one look like a taking a single Forgeworld Ripper Swarm model and putting it together. But don't worry, we will not forget this project and I will continue to work on it! As always, questions and comments are always welcome.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
No unfortunately not but its definitely not dead. I had to take a break for a bit and get my Cadians in order. Now that I have that done I can turn back to this. Unfortunately I'm one of those people that has to blueprint everything out ahead of time; I'm not one to shoot from the hip so to speak. I'll be going to Games Day Baltimore so look for a post probably the week after or maybe even that weekend as I have time off.
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  • 4 months later...

Alright man, I googled you, since I couldn't find the link from LOnline, and since I've been hanging out here anyways, since 40KTerra went crashed.

 

I might be able to pick up a couple of Land Raiders later, and I was wondering what variants you think I should get, a Crusader, Phobos, or Redeemer?

 

Hows the search for all the pieces going anywhoo?

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There is a list of parts..its in his first post.

 

 

Edit:

Alright!!! I went out and got a Codex, and a LR Redeemer and a regular Phobos.

 

Once I start cutting, I'll start a new thread. I just hope Dogma gets on his game so I'm not stuck here with half a Exterminus

 

Heres mine! Shorts'

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Well it has been a LONG time since I last posted and with Christmas coming up we need to get moving on this! Now that those sideline distractions are out of the way, I can finally proceed.

 

Instead of designing the inside panels, I took a different route and start to put together the outside track subassemblies. To do that we have to insert spacers that support the back of the inside of the track side. My internal supports measured 20 mm in length and I cut them out of plasticard tubing. I positioned them as best I could to ensure that all points were touching on both sides to provide maximum support.

 

Outer Track Sub Assembly - Interior Detail of Spacers

 

With the spacers in place, I then used a magnetic gluing jig that I have to line up the two side pieces and glue them together.

 

Outer Track Sub Assembly - Gluing Sides with Jig

 

Additionally I glue guide rails that I cut using a table saw that I have to the precise widths. The inside lower rail is 1.75 mm and the raised outside rail is 3 mm. Simply cut the pieces and line them up and glue. The length of the replacement rails will vary depending on how you split the inner sides up.

 

Outer Track Sub Assembly - High Front Profile

 

For added stability, I also glue in spacers which provided added backing for the tracks and stability for the whole assembly. I know its probably overkill but I wanted a solid rugged feed to this assembly. I also wanted to provide an additional mechanism for lining up the two sides of the assembly; only two original posts from the pices remained after the internal track side was split. I glued the spacers to the inside track rail from one side to another. I did this on every side a track piece would be mounted to ensure that tracks were spaced correctly. I then glue the track pieces on.

 

Outer Track Sub Assembly - Front Right Profile

 

You may have noticed that the front track piece (L1 and R1) have been cut to show two tracks. This was done because I'm going to attemp to utilize those pieces later. The Reinforced Land Raider Armour from Forgeworld covers up the majority of these tracks making them unnecessary. By cutting them I hopefully will be able to us ethem later when I put the tracks together for the innner larger track pieces. In total I provide myself 16 extra track lengths that I don't have to recreate from scratch.

 

And that brings us to the end of this post. The outer track subassembly is coming along nicely. My next step now is to go ahead and attach the Reinforced Land Raider Armour to these track sides and magnetize the sponsons. Ironically ShortsonFire79, who is also now building his own very nice Land Raider Exterminus, has already provided a good summary his post #29 of his Exterminus project thread on Bolter and Chainsword.

 

Outer Track Doors and Sponson Inserts

 

I'll be looking into magnetization of the sponson's and Forgeword Land Raider Imperial Eagle and Terminator doors tomorrow. I'll post again and the end of the day detailing my progress. We're definitely back to stay this time!

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Never try to post at 2:00 am in the morning. You'll just end up falling asleep on your keyboard. Then I woke up 4 hours later and went to work which destroyed the rest of my mind and taking me out of commission for yet another day.

 

Looking over my post from Saturday, I wanted to elaborate on the tread rails and how to recreate them. They're actually made of two pieces of plasticard I've provided a diagram below. I had issues finding 1.75 mm plasticard; you certain could build it up with smaller strips. I ended up cutting down a 2 mm thick piece with the table saw.

 

Track Rail Blueprint

 

Next I've moved on to the sponsons. The first order of business is attachment to the main body of the sponson base. I want to magnetize as much as possible and this is no exception. The Forgeworld Reinforced Armour presents a problem when using ShortsonFire79's mounting technique. To achieve the same result, I had to manufacturer a brack out of plasticard with holes in it to hold the magnets. Also instead of using the sides, I've choosen to mount the magnets on the top and bottom.

 

Sponson Magnetization - Magnet Brackets

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1284-2/sponsonmagnetization-magnetbrackets-2008-11-03.png

 

Here you can see and example of how it would be mounted. Just as with ShortsonFire79's solution, the magnets can be attached to the outside of the entrance casing. The manufacturer bracket allows for the magnets to be in close enough proximity and holding the sponson in place. Four magnets may seem like overkill but the hurricane bolters that I have are of the old variety; all metal. Given that much weight, I think four magnets will be enough to hold it in place.

 

Sponson Magnetization - Magnet Brackets Mounting Example

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1285-2/sponsonmagnetization-magnetbrackets-example-2008-11-03.png

 

Sponson Mangetization - Gluing In Progress

 

Last item on the agenda are the Forgeworld Land Raider doors that I plan to use on my kit. I've seen several warnings about the size of the doors in relation to the opening but I never imagined they would be THAT off. Using the doors as is would be a crime so we have to to fix it. I have several options that I could consider from beefing up the exist doors or using the existing plastic doors and mounting them to the outside. Looking at the plastic door solution, I'm not too thrilled either.

 

Forgeworld Land Raider Door Gape Detail

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1283-2/forgworldlandraiderdoorgapdetail-2008-11-03.png

 

After looking at the options, I've decided to create my own Land Raider doors and use the existing Forgeworld Land Raider doors on top of them; projecting out. I love control and this gives the maximum amount of it. So we'll start off by creating a template to cut from. From the template that I cut out below it appears that a 31 mm x 36 mm rectangle with a 45 degree angled cut at 4 mm from the edge should do the trick. It fits snuggly around the edges and the seem looks good.

 

Door Magnetization - Card Board Door Template

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1282-2/doormagnetization-examplecardboarddoor-2008-11-03.png

 

It shouldn't take me long to create the doors; I'm thinking a day max at best. Look for another post perhaps on Thursday for the next update. I should be able to get the doors finished and the Forgeworld Armour on. This will allow me to proceed on to the more exciting areas of architecting the central core of the Exterminus. As always questions and comments are always welcome!

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Good luck with those bigger doors. I solved my door magnet problem =-D ..Though, Mine will never look as good as yours =-D

 

 

On the doors, maybe you could just fill the sides up a TAD with GS/filler, and shave it down to fit...though, that might mess up your sponson fittings.

 

Edit: I was going to post a new reply, but I realized it would bring it to the top of the forum, which would then have people look at what I was posting, which would kill this thread as a construction, and more on a "ooh, what weapons should we give the behemoth?" Like the one on LO...I didn't want that..as it clogs, and reduces good updates =-D

 

So here it is

 

 

 

Alright..well, I did come here with Transport cap. information/ideas...but I started listing things..and got to 9...and I realized I had a LOT more to do..so I'll leave the variants here, so you can look at them...and to the transports yourself (so you don't have to think about all the weapon variations.

 

variant 1 weaps= no sponson, top heavy bolters. Transport=32

variant 2 weaps= 2 twinlinked hurricane bolters(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 3 weaps= 4 twinlinked hurricane bolters(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 4 weaps= 2 twinlinked hurricane bolters, 2 twinlinked lascannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 5 weaps= 2 twinlinked lascannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 6 weaps= 4 twinlinked lascannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 7 weaps= 2 twinlinked lascannons, 2 twinlinked lascannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 8 weaps= 4 twinlinked lascannons(sponson), top twinlinked Lascannons. Transport=

variant 9 weaps= 2 flamestorm cannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 10 weaps= 4 flamestorm cannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 11 weaps= 2 flamestorm cannons, 2 twinlinked lascannons(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

variant 12 weaps= 2 flamestorm cannons, 2 twinlinked hurricane bolters(sponson), top heavy bolters. Transport=

 

its VERY sloppy..I don't even know why I'm posting it =-D

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I've completed the sponson magnetization. Using four magnets per side makes the bond extremely strong and will hold the heavier sponson assemblies.

 

Sponson Magnetization - Complete

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1287-2/sponsonmagnetization-complete-2008-11-10.png

 

Remember the gaps in those doors, we'll I've engineered some new ones which solve the problem although I am not convinced as to their appearance. Particularly the three pointed claws at the top of the door. I'm looking into ways of making them more prominent as they are on the existing plastic doors. I most certainly will do some more detail work later to spruce them up a bit. For now there adequate to allow me to continue.

 

Imperial Eagle & Terminator Honors Doors - Detail

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1289-2/imperialeagleandterminatorhonorsdoors-detail-2008-11-10.png

 

In addition to completing the sponson magnetization and doors, I've also been working on the reinforced armour. Fitting and gluing the rear and side pieces was easy; simple pinning and super glue. The front portion of the reinforced armour, the part that covers the tracks for added protection needs special attention. Normally the armour is supposed to wrap around the track and terminate on the other side. However because of the Exterminus's stepped track design, the inner track being larger than the outer track, I'll be cutting part of the armour off and saving it for later use.

 

Reinforced Armour - Cuts and Rebuilding

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1288-2/reinforcedarmour-cutsandrebuilding-2008-11-10.png

 

As you see above, I've cut the armour straight down away from the outer edge. This preserves the two inner angled corners and end caps, rivits and other detail which is hard to reproduce. I'll be using it later. In its place I've built up some plasticard to continue the current design straight; this will connect with the inner track on the side. You can see this in the mock up of the right side track that I did below. Even with the gaps in the armor I must say this is starting to look impressive.

 

Mockup - Right Side Track

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1290-2/mockup-rightsidetrack-2008-11-10.png

 

In the interest of time, I'll be skipping the detail items such as the doors and sponson weapons till later. I'm still stuck on the tunnel but I don't want to waste time on interior design work now. I'm going to move on quickly to the central core construction, engine and front ramp construction. I'll also try and make my posts a bit shorter; I tend to get long winded.

 

As always comments, questions and suggestions are always welcome.

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