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Modelling: Building the LEGO Warhound *New Update*


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#26
Shortsonfire79

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Thats a good idea. Makes plenty of sense.
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I am accepting commissions for Forgeworld building. I know many of you may love Forgeworld, but I'd just love to get my hands on something just to build it, you can keep it. :) You don't even have to pay me! Just for the product! :D

#27
Brother-Captain Sharp

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K guys, the LEGO Warhound has been recovered. Expect new updates in the very near future (most likely Friday). In the meantime, I will update this thread to bring it up to speed with the thread on 40k Forums.

Then grab these:
Posted Image
3 2x4 pieces
2 1x4 pieces
enough slanted pieces to make a 3x4 section
1 4x4 flat piece
2 joint pieces

add two of the 2x4 pieces and the slanted pieces to the 4x10 flat piece
Posted Image

Then add another of the 2x4 pieces and the 2 1x4 pieces along with the joint pieces to the top of the 4x10 piece
Posted Image

Now add the 4x4 piece so that it completely covers the last 2x4 piece and the joint pieces
Posted Image

now it is time for the pistons. You will need
Posted Image
2 gun pieces
1 2x4 slanted piece
1 2x4 flat piece
1 2x2 flat piece
1 1x2 flat piece
1 1x4 piece
1 1x4 flat piece
1 LEGO altitude piece

Assemble the 1x4 piece and flat piece on top of each other, and put the 2x4 piece under the slanted piece
Posted Image

Assemble the guns, 1x2 piece and altitude pice like so:
Posted Image

Add the guns and altitude piece to the ankle. It will go at the back of the flat piece which forms the foundation of the ankle, right in the center. Then with the guns pointing up and slanted towards the leg slightly, lean the leg back. The guns will fit into the 2x2 whole that was left in the leg. It should look like this:
Posted Image

another view
Posted Image

Now add the 1x4 pieces, slanted piece and 2x2 pieces to the leg to hold the pistons in
Posted Image

Now for the nect section of the leg. To start out, make sure your joint pieces are oriented like so:
Posted Image
with the studs on one piece relatively inverted compared to the other piece.

now grab these:
Posted Image
1 4x10 flat piece
1 2x4 piece
enough inverted slanted pices to make a 5x4 section

Assemble them on the bottom of the flat piece like so:
Posted Image

Add the flat piece to your joint pieces.
Posted Image

Now grab these:
Posted Image
1 2x4 slanted piece
2 2x4 pieces
1 2x4 flat piece
1 1x4 flat piece
1 1x4 piece
enough slanted pieces to make a 4x4 section.

Assemble the 2x4 slanted piece, 1 of the 2x4 pieces and the slanted pieces like so:
Posted Image

Then add the other 2x4 piece, 2x4 flat piece, and 1x4 flat piece to make this:
Posted Image

add this to the leg section so that the 1x4 flat piece hangs over the edge
Posted Image

Add the 1x4 piece in between the joint pieces and the pieces you just added.
Posted Image

Now take these:
Posted Image
1 2x4 piece
enough flat pieces to make a 2x4 section
enough smooth pieces to make a 2x4 section

#28
Brother-Captain Sharp

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and stack them on top of each other and add to the leg section with the 2x4 piece up against the 2x4 slanted piece.
Posted Image

Now, when you bend your leg section down (do this now) the 2x4 section comes in contact with the inverted slanted pieces on the previous section to give added stability and strength.
Posted Image

The next leg section starts with this:
Posted Image]
2 joint pieces
2 2x2 pieces
1 4x6 piece
1 1x4 flat piece
enough inverted slanted pieces to make a 4x4 section

assemble one of the 2x2 pieces, the 1x4 flat piece, and the joint pieces like so. Again, the studs on the joint pieces should be opposite.
Posted Image

now add the 4x6 flat piece
Posted Image

add the other 2x2 piece, and the inverted slanted pieces like so:
Posted Image

Now take these
Posted Image

and these
Posted Image
the large grey circular pice is a rotating piece. LEGO has similar pieces, but if you cannot find one it can be replaces with a 2x2 flat rotaing piece and 2 2x4 pieces. The black piece sticking out of the dark grey circular pice is a connector piece found in many of the LEGO sets like Bionicle.

Now add those to the 4x6 slanted piece like so:
Posted Image

add this whole section to the previous section with the jointed pieces right at the end to make your last leg section.
Posted Image

We are done with the skeleton of the leg, but in building it, jou might have noticed the leg looks pretty wimpy. That's because i has no armor!

Take these:
Posted Image
2 x-wing, and from other sets, wing pieces
2 joint pieces
2 2x4 pieces
2 2x4 flat pieces
1 4x12 piece

Add the two 2x4 pieces and the joint pieces to the 4x12. The studs on the joint pieces face the same way.
Posted Image

Now add the 2x4 flat pieces on top of that.
Posted Image

Now add this to the front of the bottom section of the leg.
Posted Image

From the front
Posted Image

Then lean the joint pieces back 2 clicks, and add the wing pieces.
Posted Image

The wing pieces are not connected right at the edge, but rather farther in so that they cover up the joint piece.
Posted Image

Now your legs are done. Here's how our Warhound looks so far:
Posted Image

#29
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Step III: The Pelvis

Begin with these:
Posted Image
2 circular pieces
4 1x4 pieces
1 2x4 piece
1 6x10 flat piece

Assemble like so:
Posted Image
The gap left is the front of the pelvis. From this point onward, the front of the pelvis points towards the top of the pictures.

Now take these:
Posted Image
1 6x10 piece
2 1x4 pieces
1 1x8 piece
The bottom of a Megablocks rotating piece, or a 2x2 rotating flat LEGOs piece

And assemble them onto the top of the last pieces.
Posted Image

Now take:
Posted Image
4 2x4 pieces
2 1x2 inverted slants
2 1x3 inverted slants
2 2x3 inverted slants

And put them on the bottom 6x10 piece like so:
Posted Image

Now grab:
Posted Image
2 1x2 inverted slants
2 2x2 inverted slants
2 2x3 inverted slants
1 1x6 piece
2 1x4 pieces or 1 2x4 piece

And put them on the bottom of the pieces you just added like so:
Posted Image

Next layer:
Posted Image
4 2x2 inverted slants
1 2x4 piece

Add them like so:
Posted Image


Last layer:
Posted Image
2 2x3 inverted slants

Add them like so:
Posted Image

Now for the codpiece. Take these:
Posted Image
1 ninety degree piece
1 2x2 piece or 2 1x2 pieces
(you don’t need the joint pieces yet)

Assemble the ninety degree piece and the 2x2 piece so that the 2x2 pieces studs stick out from the front of the pelvis.
Posted Image

The ninety degree piece just fits into the gap left between the two 6x10 flat pieces.

Now take these:
Posted Image
These will be your codpiece. However, seeing as how these are somewhat odd pieces, you might have to find flat pieces in your own set that you like.

Assemble those with the joint pieces like so:
Posted Image

Now take that construction and fasten it to the 2x2 studs.
Posted Image

You might notice that I have the bottom flat pieces of the codpiece overlapping the joint pieces so that you can’t see them.

Now take your pelvis and attach it to the legs using the small black connectors left in the legs from the last step. The holes in the circular pieces in the pelvis line up with it.
Posted Image


Almost done. I’m trying something different today; a video. Hopefully it doesn’t take too long for it to load, seeing as how I’ve never used youtube before, and I couldn’t figure out how to upload videos. Try not to be distracted by my amazingly sexy voice :D


http://s273.photobuc...nt=DCFN2146.flv

#30
Brother-Captain Sharp

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As promised, here it is.

Section IV: The Torso and Head
------------------------------------
Ok, start out with these pieces
Posted Image
1 6x8 flat
1 6x10 flat
1 6x12 flat
The rest of the rotating piece you attached to the pelvis.

Assemble like so:
Posted Image
(The 6x8 is behind the 6x12)

Then take
Posted Image
12x 2x4 pieces

Assemble them on the flat pieces
Posted Image

Then take
Posted Image
5 2x4 pieces

Assemble them on top of the protruding area like so
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
2 1x6 flat smooth
1 2x2 flat smooth
1 2x2 flat rotator
1 2x4 piece
2 1x8 pieces

Assemble them on the pieces you just added like so
Posted Image

Now add 2 more 1x8 pieces and another 2x4 piece onto the small pieces you just added
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
2 1x4 flat smooth or 1 2x4 flat smooth
2 joint pieces
1 2x2 piece

Assemble them like so
Posted Image

Now attach that to the main piece with the joint pieces on the rotator piece
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
2 2x4 flat pieces
2 2x6 flat pieces
2 1x4 flat pieces

Now take one 2x4 flat and attach it to one of the 2x6 flat pieces
Posted Image

Now attach everything to to main piece, with the 2x6 with the 2x4 attached on the right of this picture
Posted Image

To finish off the neck for right now, use 2x4 and 1x4 pieces to make a 2 layer 7 long addition. Leave the first line towards the head uncovered
Posted Image

Starting on the head

Take
Posted Image
1 6x8
2 1x8 pieces
3 2x4 pieces
1 1x4 slider piece

And assemble them like so
Posted Image

Attach these pieces to the joint pieces sticking out from the neck
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
2 1x8 pieces
2 2x4 pieces
1 1x4 piece
1 1x4 slider pieces

#31
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Assemble them on the head
Posted Image

Take
Posted Image
4 2x4 pieces
4 2x2 slanted pieces

Add these to the head
Posted Image

Now to finish off the head, take
Posted Image
1 2x4 piece
1 1x4 piece
1 2x3 slanted piece
2 1x2 slanted piece

Assemble them like so
Posted Image

Throw these pieces onto the head, and its finished.
Posted Image

--------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, that's all for right now. I gotta go to an appointment, so I can't go any further, but later tonight I'll get another update up. I have the pictures uploaded, just need to add the text.

#32
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Section IV.b: The Body
--------------------------------------
Note: I removed the neck and head area to facilitate the photography. Don't be thrown off by a seemingly new area to build on.

Returning to the area of the body we did not work on, start with these pieces:
Posted Image
1 2x8 (this can be replaced by 2 2x4s, but it adds stability to use it)
5 2x4s

Assemble them on the model like so:
Posted Image

(A note on assembling the large areas of 2x4 bricks. Any configuration will work really, just make sure to mix up the patterns between levels, as the LEGOs will hold in all 3 dimensions. IOW, don't directly stack the 2x4s)

Now grab these pieces
Posted Image
1 2x8
3 2x4s

Assemble them like so (you can fill the gaps if you have plenty of bricks. I'm trying to save bricks)
Posted Image

Now grab
Posted Image
Enough flat pieces to make a 4x10 area. if a 4x10 is not available, 2 2x10s would be optimal, but you can make do with smaller pieces like I did, it will still work.

Assemble them across the area that you just assembled leaving a 2x10 section uncovered at the back of the Warhound.
Posted Image

Now grab
Posted Image
5 2x4s

Assemble them on the flat pieces you just added.

Now take
Posted Image
4 1x8s 0r 2 2x8s
3 2x4s
2 2x2s

And assemble them on the 2x4s you just added with the 2x8s on the front, two studs deep on the 2x4s.
Posted Image

Grab 5 more 2x4s and do the same thing you did earlier
Posted Image

Now grab 2 2x4 slanted and 2 2x3 slanted pieces along with 2 MegaBlocks altitude pieces. Assemble these as pictured
Posted Image

Now we will work on the last major piece of the body.

Take these pieces
Posted Image
2 2x4 pieces
1 1x8 piece
1 6x16 flat piece

And assemble them like this
Posted Image

Now take that piece and attach it to the 2x10 strip you left bare on the back of the body with the 1x8 piece facing the rear
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
And stack them on top of each other with the 1x6 strips on the edges of the 4x6 piece. If you do not have all those pieces, it is easy enough to get the impression of it it. Just leave one side with a bare 2 studs in the middle. That is all you need.

This is one of the ways I did that.
Posted Image

Now repeat that process four times and stack them on top of each other, leaving the sides with the gaps all going the same direction. You'll result in your engine vent
Posted Image

Ok guys, I've lost a few pictures for the next few steps, but it should be ok. I'll do my best to explain in text what I did.

So make another vent, then place them on the edges of the flat piece, which three levels of 2x4s filling the space between them (there should be no bare space on the flat piece)

It should look like this
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
2 2x4s
2 1x4s
2 4x3 slanted pieces

Also grab
2 4x2 slanted pieces
1 4x3 slanted piece

These will be added at the same time
Posted Image

The slanted pieces and 1x4s and 2x4s from the first group completely cover the tops of the vents. The slanted pieces go in the middle as pictured.

Ok, here's where missing a picture really hurts. There is a 2x8 gap between the 2x4s you added. A 2x8 piece or two 1x8 pieces should be added to fill that gap.

Edit: Fixed a duplicate picture.

Edited by Brother-Captain Sharp, 11 April 2009 - 03:54 AM.


#33
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Now take
Posted Image
Optimally 2 2x16 flat pieces, but you can improvise as I did if you don't have anything that long.

Here's what I did with the above pieces to get the 2x16
Posted Image

That makes a piece that is double the height of a flat and 2x16. That is what you want (no matter how you do it).

Now this piece gets placed between the 2x8 you placed and the MegaBlocks altitude pieces you placed earlier. Center it on the body.
Posted Image

Now grab
Posted Image
2 2x6 flat pieces or the equivalent area in smaller pieces.

Place these on top of the slanted pieces, 2x4s, 1x4s, and the flat piece you just added. (On top of the vents, but moved forward three). At the same time add a 2x4 flat piece to the center of the 2x16 flat piece you added.
Posted Image

Now grab
Posted Image
The flat pieces to make a double high flat piece of area 4x16

Add this to the top of your body, with the forward most edge right behind the altitude pieces.
Posted Image

That concludes the engine area. Now we just have to make the shoulders.

We use
Posted Image
A Tie Fighter piece (this can be replicated by upside down slanted pieces pretty easily)
2 2x2 upside down slants

Attach these to the 2x8 spars sticking out from the body, adding joint pieces pointing forward.
Posted Image

Now throw a 6x6 square on the top
Posted Image

Repeat on the opposite shoulder, and we've completed the main construction on the body.
---------------------------------------

You might notice that there were some pieces that didn't seem to have any purpose (the ones under the engine area), but go ahead and add them. We'll need them later.

Our Warhound as it stands now
Posted Image
We're getting really close.

Next up: the body paneling and the weapons (and the finish line) :D Depending on my schedule, the next update could come as early as tomorrow.

Edited by Brother-Captain Sharp, 11 April 2009 - 03:54 AM.


#34
Skirax

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has this died or something or have you just not got round to updating? Cos I would love to see this finished :P

Depending on my schedule, the next update could come as early as tomorrow.

famous last words...;)

Edited by Skirax, 14 March 2009 - 06:38 PM.

-->Of Skirax And Scenery; Homemade scenery blog.
 
-->The Return of the Warmaster; From the shadows he comes...
-->The Rise of the Warmaster; The Wolftime approaches...
-->The Time of Ending; The End of Days is upon us!
 
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It depresses me that a squad of ten Imperial Guard Cadians now costs the same as twenty did almost four years ago

#35
metcalfedan

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I'm still following it, but the progress on my own Warhound has stalled - running low on bricks...

Very good!
QUOTE (Cedric @ May 31 2009, 12:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
@ Captain Mike. Viva is Spanish/Italian for "long live". So "Viva Metallica", as the method is called, would roughly translate to "Long live Metallics!"

#36
Tutteman

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Special request here, I just found this thread and I love the idea of being able to make a Warhound without spending £295. Is there a complete list of all parts that would be needed. So I could work out how much could be stolen from my old box of lego and how much I would need to buy?

Great work here, love it. :D :) :D :D :D
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<><

#37
Skirax

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I have PMed Sharp about the 'stall' on work and I am waiting for him to get back to me. I have done what is there so far in a week, probably about a one hundredth the time it would take for me to raise the funds, ring FW, order it, have it arrive, model it and paint it. Seriously, if you are looking for a cheap way of of making a Warhound, and you have loads of old lego, you're sad, but able to buld a warhound!!

Edited by Skirax, 14 March 2009 - 06:41 PM.

-->Of Skirax And Scenery; Homemade scenery blog.
 
-->The Return of the Warmaster; From the shadows he comes...
-->The Rise of the Warmaster; The Wolftime approaches...
-->The Time of Ending; The End of Days is upon us!
 
The International Brotherhood Of Hobbyists

It depresses me that a squad of ten Imperial Guard Cadians now costs the same as twenty did almost four years ago

#38
Iacton Qruze

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just found this.

I hope it gets updated, as I'd sure like to make one myself. :huh:

#39
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Sorry guys, my computer has been down for the past few weeks. Sorry. I'll get an update up as soon as I am able.

#40
Fausto2071

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Ha! this is phenomenal!
oh man. an army of space marines up on ebay HERE!!!
There's no love in your violence!- Kakihara, Ichi the Killer

#41
Chapter Master Dave

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i must say this is great thank you for sharing this :)

QUOTE (I AM THE AWESOME @ Jul 21 2009, 06:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You're just crazy. Now, if you'd just kindly follow the trail of cookies leading into the interrogation chamber...

#42
Skirax

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C'mon Sharp, update, please. I really want to get this Titan done, and it doesn't even have armour or guns. :D
-->Of Skirax And Scenery; Homemade scenery blog.
 
-->The Return of the Warmaster; From the shadows he comes...
-->The Rise of the Warmaster; The Wolftime approaches...
-->The Time of Ending; The End of Days is upon us!
 
The International Brotherhood Of Hobbyists

It depresses me that a squad of ten Imperial Guard Cadians now costs the same as twenty did almost four years ago

#43
Brother-Captain Sharp

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No camera. :( I'll see what I can scrounge up though. Check back tomorrow night. 10-ish Mountain Standard Time.

EDIT: All the local Wal-Marts are sold out of the camera I want to buy, and I'm working during normal store hours. Looks like I'll have to wait until one of them gets a new shipment.

Edited by Brother-Captain Sharp, 08 April 2009 - 06:37 AM.


#44
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Well, I was finally able to borrow a camera from a friend to do the tutorial. Unfortunately, the camera is of a pretty low quality, so the pictures are a little more blurry than normal. I'll fix that later, but I know you guys don't want to wait (also, I'm missing a few pictures, but it's nothing major). So here we go. Before we start, remove your torso from your legs.


Step V: Armor/Guns
-----------------------
First grab:
Posted Image
1 2x4 flat
1 2x2

Assemble them as pictured and attach them to the joint pieces coming off the shoulder
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
7 2x4s
1 6x10 flat

Assemble the 2x4s onto the 6x10 with no gaps on the sides. I did this by making a ring around the edge with 2x4s then placing the last one in the middle with 1x2 gaps on either end.

Now grab
Posted Image
7 2x4s
1 2x2 (that's what the 2 1x2s are replacing)

Assemble these on top of the other 2x4s you just added. I have the middle layer complete with no gaps for durability purposes.
Posted Image

Now repeat with 7 more 2x4s
Posted Image
You now have 3 layers of 2x4s

Now take
Posted Image
1 rotational piece
1 4x12 flat

Add these on top of the massive brick of bricks you just made
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
2 X-wing engine pieces (Or A-Wing, or Droid Tank, these cylinder pieces abound)
2 2x2 slant pieces
1 2x4

Assemble them like so
Posted Image

Now take something to connect them on the bottom. You can do the exact opposite (2 2x2 upside down slants), or really anything will work. I used this:
Posted Image

Put your piece onto the bottom of the cylinders
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
Enough flat pieces to make 2 4x6 flat sections

And assemble them on top of the cylinders
Posted Image

Now take
Posted Image
These 8 connectors commonly seen in Bionocle or similar sets.

Stick them into the holes at the female end of the cylinders. (No innuendo intended ;) )
Posted Image

Now attach that construct to the larger brick by way of the overhanging piece.
Posted Image

Next we need
Posted Image
Enough flat pieces to make a 4x8 flat piece

Connect the two larger constructs on the underside using these pieces, while adding structural soundness to the barrels.
Posted Image

Your Vulcan Megabolter is now complete. What's that? You want to use a Double-Barreled Turbolaser Destructor?

Repeat the same steps for building the barrels, this time leaving off the connectors. The new section can be added to the barrels female end to female end, creating 2 large barrels and a longer gun. This can also be used for a Plasma Blastgun
Posted Image

#45
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Now to attach the weapon. Fit the middle 2x4 lines of the rotating piece into the underside if the short spar coming off the shoulder:
Posted Image
(sorry for the blurry picture)

Repeat these steps for the other side, and you have both your weapons! (There is no handedness) DO NOT PUT THIS ONTO YOUR LEGS YET! Sorry for the all-caps, but your legs will break if you do.

Now we return to the body. Remember those pieces on the back of the body? Well probably not, because I accidentally posted the same picture twice, but this is what it's supposed to look like:
Posted Image

We're going to do something unconventional here. Grab a lot of loose change.
Posted Image

Now stick it into this compartment. The more you can fit into it the better.
Posted Image

Now close the compartment with a 4x12 flat piece.
Posted Image

The change acts as a counter-balance to the long and heavy weapons. Without it, the Warhound is front heavy, placing too much stress on the joints, causing them to shatter. With it, the Warhound will still lean forward a little, but this mimics the normal pose, makes it look a lot cooler (IMO), and is well within the ability of the joints to hold. Don't forget your pistons in the pelvis!

Now for the armor.

Take these
Posted Image
2 wing sections
1 4x4 flat
1 6x2 flat

Assemble them with the 4x4 and the 2x6 on the underside of the wing sections
Posted Image

Now grab
Posted Image
1 6x10 flat
1 1x2 attitude piece
1 1x4 hinge piece
1 1x2 flat
1 1x2 flat smooth

Assemble everything but the large flat piece together. They go like this:
Posted Image

Now attach that to the large flat piece.
Posted Image
Be careful to position it as I have.

Attach this to the wing sections
Posted Image

Repeat in the opposite direction for the other side. All it requires is switching the orientation of the attitude piece and the placement of the hinge piece.
Posted Image

Now attach the whole thing to the main body with the 1x2 Megablocks attitude pieces in the center of the 2x6 on the underside of the wing sections.
Posted Image

You can tilt this down so that it meets the head somewhat (you might need to move the 4x4 back for it to fit tighter)
Posted Image

Due to the construction of the side panels, the head retains almost full motion, while allowing the side panels to be flush with it. Try it out.

Now attach your torso to your legs again.

Now take this:
Posted Image
and admire it! You just finished the LEGO Warhound. Congratulations!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I hope you guys had as much fun building your set as I did mine. The Warhound was an absolute blast to make, and I love pulling it out for Apocalypse games. If you're wanting to move it a lot, I would consider gluing at least the joints. A lot of the pieces don't really need to be glued.

If anyone asks you how you made it, refer them here to make their own. Soon, we will have a full Legio Lego!

Anyone want me to try a Reaver?

Edited by Brother-Captain Sharp, 11 April 2009 - 03:40 AM.


#46
metcalfedan

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Anyone want me to try a Reaver?


Yes! Yes please!!!

Just out of interest, what is the height of the finished model?

EDIT: any chance that you can make another version of a warhound that's smaller and more to scale with the forgeworld one?

Edited by metcalfedan, 11 April 2009 - 09:17 AM.

QUOTE (Cedric @ May 31 2009, 12:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
@ Captain Mike. Viva is Spanish/Italian for "long live". So "Viva Metallica", as the method is called, would roughly translate to "Long live Metallics!"

#47
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Unfortunately, the model is around 12", so a little high. It'd be hard to mess with the legs (the real part of the model out of proportion) without screwing with the balance of the model. I'll give it a shot, but it'll pain me to dissemble it. :lol:

The Reaver will have to wait until I can get the rest of my LEGOs, then we'll see.

#48
metcalfedan

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Only 12"? It looks bigger than that...

It can't be much bigger than the forgeworld model.
QUOTE (Cedric @ May 31 2009, 12:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
@ Captain Mike. Viva is Spanish/Italian for "long live". So "Viva Metallica", as the method is called, would roughly translate to "Long live Metallics!"

#49
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Thank you, Sharp, thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!! *hugs Captain Sharp and breaks down crying* I...missed..you-oo-oo! :( :lol:
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#50
Brother-Captain Sharp

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Only 12"? It looks bigger than that...

It can't be much bigger than the forgeworld model.


Correction: It depends on how much you let your body lean forward, but the highest point on the model (Engine compartment) varies from 12" to 12.5". My Warhound leans forward a good amount, resulting in a height of 12.5"

Thank you, Sharp, thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!! *hugs Captain Sharp and breaks down crying* I...missed..you-oo-oo!


:tu: It was good to finish it, and I did feel quite guilty that you were left without weapons. Post a picture of your Warhound when you're done. Mine is mainly grey, dark grey, and black, but it'll be interesting to see others colors