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Ye Olde Decal Project


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I found that one, but as far as I can tell, it's just a set of black numbers including a couple stencil variations.

 

The description mentions colors, but I don't see any color variants in the PDF.

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I found that one, but as far as I can tell, it's just a set of black numbers including a couple stencil variations.

The description mentions colors, but I don't see any color variants in the PDF.

It's one PDF with layers. When you open the file, select the Layers side bar. You can then select which color to display/print. Note: the top most layer will be the one that prints, so (using the below image) if you have both Black and Blue layers selected, only the Black will print.

gallery_80588_10579_302986.jpg

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...and thanks to Cryptix' request, I realized I'd never shared my pre-Vulkan XVIIIth Legion Saturnyne Rams sheet. That has now been remedied (although, due to the Roman numerals, the size requires I store it on my Decal Google Drive).

gallery_80588_10710_73155.jpg
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I found that one, but as far as I can tell, it's just a set of black numbers including a couple stencil variations.

 

The description mentions colors, but I don't see any color variants in the PDF.

It's one PDF with layers. When you open the file, select the Layers side bar. You can then select which color to display/print. Note: the top most layer will be the one that prints, so (using the below image) if you have both Black and Blue layers selected, only the Black will print.

Does that mean it can't be used to print two-color transfers? For example if I selected yellow text and red background, would it print both, or just the yellow text?

 

And if it does print both, does that mean the red trim effect (of the below examples) would have to be hand-cut around each number?

 

The image I used is a bit hard to make out (had trouble finding images of these RT-era transfers), but the numbers I wanted to replicate are yellow with a red border.

 

Not sure if this has a better shot of the numbers - the effect is not unlike the current White Scars transfer in terms of color combinations:

 

http://picclick.co.uk/OOP-Citadel-Warhammer-40k-Rogue-Trader-322211923755.html

 

Not a picture of the transfer sheet, but a painted example of the same effect:

 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-lMEz0A3Rg/UvlQBg9hH-I/AAAAAAAABGk/SB6_x79WB64/s1600/rhino.png

Edited by Midwest
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Sorry, I wasn't quite clear on that. A layer will cover/overprint anything underneath it. In the case of two logo layers, the topmost logo will prevent a logo underneath it from printing. In the case of a logo and background layer being active, the logo will only block printing of the portion of the background color it's directly over - it's a WYSIWYG situation.

The reason for the background layers has to do with the differences between clear and white decal paper. Clear decal paper will allow the background color to show through, leading to discolored, if not completely invisible decals when applied (except with black).

Color Decal, Clear Decal Paper: Can you find the Mount Deathfire logo on this model?

gallery_80588_10505_175057.jpg

White paper allows the image to be placed with the correct color, but will have white around the image. By adding a color background similar to your models background color, you can print on white paper without having to trim too closely to the decal. You might need a small touch-up with your background paint to blend your decal into the background color, but it keeps your decal true to its printed color.

Color Decal, Color Background, White Decal Paper: The Unification Raptor on the missile pod is the same color as the Mt. Deathfire logo in the previous image, but printed on white paper with a green background. The decal was blended into the background with my background paint color.

gallery_80588_10505_247855.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

If anyone would be willing to make up a transfer sheet for my DIY lot, I'd be incredibly grateful.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s599/pwilson89/d3e4ee73-3f50-49c2-9176-322932c12f45_zpstisbsiem.jpg

 

However if not, would anyone be willing to throw a few tips about how I should go about scaling a transfer sheet myself?

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If anyone would be willing to make up a transfer sheet for my DIY lot, I'd be incredibly grateful.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s599/pwilson89/d3e4ee73-3f50-49c2-9176-322932c12f45_zpstisbsiem.jpg

However if not, would anyone be willing to throw a few tips about how I should go about scaling a transfer sheet myself?

1) Marines scaling is usually max 8mm for shoulder pads, max 5mm for knees. Measurement should be by the longest dimension of the image - in your case sword-tip to pommel.

2) As an alternative, there's a template in the Downloads section. Open that in your image program, create a layer over it, import your logo, and scale it to fit the individual sizing circles.

3) ...or give me a day. Simple logo I can whip up in short order. Space Turks/Marines Scimitar Chapter, right?

EDIT: Okay, maybe less than a day. If this works for ya, I'll get it loaded to the Downloads section.

gallery_80588_10710_287701.jpg

Edited by Carlson793
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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Just a quick question, sorry if I missed it. But I am planning on having someone make the decal sheet for me. What is the standard size of the sheet so I can give him the accurate scale? If that makes sense.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Can any one help me out? I am using transfers with a black design but i want to add a white circular background.  I could paint a white circle but am not confident in getting it right.

 

Ideally I want a 6 or 7mm diameter plain white circle transfer but do not know where to look. Any ideas?

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Just a quick question, sorry if I missed it. But I am planning on having someone make the decal sheet for me. What is the standard size of the sheet so I can give him the accurate scale? If that makes sense.

Really, it's up to the person printing them to set the standard... 

• The files I design are set for A5 page size (roughly half a sheet of US Letter paper)

• FalloutHobbies does half US Letter sheets (5.5" x 8.5")

GW sheets are usually A6 (1/4 US Letter) for vehicles and A7 (1/8 US Letter) for infantry 

• Battlefront sheets for Flames of War are 40mm x 60mm

• Dom's Decals (independent historical decal printer out of the UK) does 65mm x 80mm

 

As you can buy decal paper in just about any standard paper size, it's just a matter of designing the sheet for the paper you have/buy.

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Can any one help me out? I am using transfers with a black design but i want to add a white circular background. I could paint a white circle but am not confident in getting it right.

Ideally I want a 6 or 7mm diameter plain white circle transfer but do not know where to look. Any ideas?

(Skip to the last paragraph for the TL/DR solution to your problem. Before that is 'Decal Printing Theory and Practice'.)

This can be tricky, especially with home printing. Unless you knew to purchase a printer that prints white, it's almost certain you don't have a printer that can print white. Usually, those'll run you significantly more than your desktop HP or LexMark printer. The basic idea here is why should they include white ink/toner when you're almost always going to be printing on white paper. Because of this, you're going to need either spend big bucks to get something simple printed, or take the cheaper but trickier route (see below).

Decal paper comes in two flavors: clear and opaque white. Each can do the job you want, but will take a few more steps than simply cutting-and-applying the decal.

White paper can do the job in one pass, but has the disadvantage of leaving a white area around your decal. You can get around this a bit when designing your sheet by filling in the area around your image with a close approximation of the background color the decal is going to be applied to. After applying the decal, you then use your background paint to blend the decal into the background.

An example of white paper in use. To keep the yellow Raptor on the missile pod from discoloring when applied to a green background, it was printed to white paper with the logo surrounded by a green close to the background. After applying, I used paint to blend the green edges of the decal into the background.

gallery_80588_10505_247855.jpg

Clear paper, when using a non-white ink printer, will let your background color show through the parts you want white. You can, however, use this to your advantage (and credit where it's due to BKZer0 for this technique). When creating your logo, make two copies for every one you want to appear on your model - one will be the full logo, and the other just the outline of it. Print to clear paper, and fully apply the outline version to your model (by the way: Winterdyne's tutorial is a must read in this department). Now, fill in that outline with white paint, being careful to stay inside the lines. Now you can apply your full logo over the white painted version.

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  • 2 months later...

Its an alternative marking. I'm working on an armoured company in desert camo with black unit markings etc, and dont want to add a single white chapter symbol. There wasnt a standard ultramarine transfer sheet I could download and change to black.

 

Thanks

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Its an alternative marking. I'm working on an armoured company in desert camo with black unit markings etc, and dont want to add a single white chapter symbol. There wasnt a standard ultramarine transfer sheet I could download and change to black.

 

Thanks

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I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I'm trying to use the Black letter Numerals file, and it only prints as a large black block. Help, please?

 

I just looked at the Roman Numeral PDF and it does the same thing.  Both these are PDF's and when I pull up the preview, it looks fine, black letters or numbers on a white background, but when I download them, then pull up the PDFs on the pc, its all black. And it prints that way.  Do I have something set incorrectly?

Edited by valhalla130
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