sarabando Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 any one tried detol on FW resin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThisisJimmy Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I just want to throw my hat behind methylated spirits. Works quite quickly and doesn't seem to damage to model. It does destroy glue bonds, but as I was stripping some eBay purchases, this was an advantage more than anything. I haven't seen its effect on resin on greenstuff, so I don't know the effect it would have. The only thing with meth is that you need to keep it covered, otherwise it will evaporate very quickly. The problem I had with Dettol is that it didn't seem to strip the model perfectly, becoming almost "pasty" and waxy. It also didn't seem to want to rinse with water, and it almost seemed to exacerbate the problem (the stains on my bathroom sink are a testament to that). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sainhann Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Well I decided to strip and repaint my Eldar Army which was painted 20 years ago. I started with Simple Green but after two days soaking I only had one figure done out of the 60+ models of the first batch. So I went to Walmart and picked up some Super Clean and put the figures in there. You do need to wear gloves for this since it stronger than simple green. Way better progress since I only have like 23 more to go and those should be done tonight. I would also recommend picking up a set of small files. They can help with getting the paint out of the creases. http://www.eternaltools.com/wp-content/upl...d-file-sets.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakkum2006 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hi all, just wanted to add my experience. Am stripping some blood angels at the moment and am trying cillit bang degreaser. Left them in for 10 mins and then with a cheap tooth brush i have got down to the basecoat and beyond fairly easily. The models rinse pretty well too :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VoteForPedro Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Regarding Dettol: Apologies if this had been mentioned but I noticed a couple of people mentioning issues with a sticky residue from using Dettol to strip paints. I experienced the same thing but have found a simple solution. In short, after you have left the model to sit in the fluid overnight, when you come to wiping it off don't do this with water. The water mixes with the paint reminants and creates the sticky residue that's a pain to get off. Instead scrub the model in the Dettol itself and you'll have no issues! Once you have removed the paint leave the models to dry somewhere. They will smell a bit like a hospital because of the Dettol. When they are dry give them a wash in soapy water to remove most of the Dettol and you are good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilljoy Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I've had the same problem as a few other people have mentioned about the greasy waxy feel to models after using dettol. Has anyone tried using fairy power spray to remove this residue? Sorry for the necro but I didn't want to start a new thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyrox Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I just Fairy Power Spray, and nothing else. Put them in a cup shaped container so you dont need to use too much Leave them to soak and scrub off the paint with an old toothbrush. Its brilliant stuff and doesn't leave gunk at all Metal mini's need soaking for about an hour, plastic ones I leave over night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilljoy Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I just Fairy Power Spray, and nothing else. Put them in a cup shaped container so you dont need to use too much Leave them to soak and scrub off the paint with an old toothbrush. Its brilliant stuff and doesn't leave gunk at all Metal mini's need soaking for about an hour, plastic ones I leave over night Cool man I'll try it out. Do you pour it over or spray it on out of the bottle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olib Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Not tried other solutions so can't really comment, but on plastic and metal models (i wouldn't recommend on resin as they are softer) I've used acetone free nail varnish remover pads. Without gloves you'll get it all over your hands, but you can get the paint off within about 15 minutes for a model. The ones I use smell like watermelon, it's nice. (Boots) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhg033 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 i would steer clear of nail varnish remover - even acetone free as it will damage the detail of plastic models. i tested it as a cheaper option a while back on a cadian and an ork - both lost the finer details and the guard model started to warp on thinner parts like the bayonet. cant remember how long i soaked them for but it was less than a couple of hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhane Canalpan Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Please post an update so we know how the silent paint remover works. I read about it on This Old House and am considering buying one. We bought a 150 yr old house in MA and it needs a lot of painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGPO Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Anyone got any idea how to strip finecast? I have a feeling Dettol and scrubbing could damage the softer resin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odsox Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Regarding Dettol: Apologies if this had been mentioned but I noticed a couple of people mentioning issues with a sticky residue from using Dettol to strip paints. I experienced the same thing but have found a simple solution. In short, after you have left the model to sit in the fluid overnight, when you come to wiping it off don't do this with water. The water mixes with the paint reminants and creates the sticky residue that's a pain to get off. Instead scrub the model in the Dettol itself and you'll have no issues! Once you have removed the paint leave the models to dry somewhere. They will smell a bit like a hospital because of the Dettol. When they are dry give them a wash in soapy water to remove most of the Dettol and you are good to go. Just wanted to add my support to this method and also recommend something similar. I just retrieved a bunch of Heavy Weapons from a Dettol soak about half an hour ago and when it came to scrubbing them realised I'd used up the last of my standard Dettol. BUT. I had some Dettol hygienic hand scrub nearby - worked waaaaay better. Got rid of the basecoat in no time and left no residue at all. Od. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvilarium Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I just Fairy Power Spray, and nothing else. Put them in a cup shaped container so you dont need to use too much Leave them to soak and scrub off the paint with an old toothbrush. Its brilliant stuff and doesn't leave gunk at all I recently stripped 20+ plastic, resin & metal minis with Fairy Power Spray and an Electric Toothbrush. All the minis were submerged in the same plastic tub for approx 2 hours (I poured the entire bottle on top of them). After 2 hours the paint was visibly starting to loosen from the models. I took the minis out one at a time and used an electric toothbrush to remove the paint. Afterwards I filled by bathroom sink with hot water, dumped all the minis into it and then gave them another scrub with the electric toothbrush and left them to dry. From submerging them in Fairy Power Spray to putting them out to dry, total time was approx. 4 hours. My Findings: 1) Metal Models come out looking brand new. 2) Resin Models clean up very nicely as well. 3) Plastic Models clean up well, although if the model was undercoated with blackspray paint, the black will have stained the plastic. 4) If you have based your models with woodglue & sand, the fairy power spray will loosen this as well. 5) An Electric Toothbrush may cost more than a normal one, but you will save yourself so much arm ache! :) In all cases, I managed to get approx 80-90% of the paint off, and my models are now waiting for new arms before they get a new coat of paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razblood Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I've used Dettol, Fairy Power Spray & Acetone Free Varnish removerwith varying degrees of success. Dettol - Workhorse product, but messy as all hell :lol: Fairy Power Spray - Best overall, but can be expensive, unless on offer - details below :P Acetone Free Varnish Remover - Fantastic for metal minis. use on plastic at your own risk, but as long as you don't leave it unattended for more than an hour or so it can do the job without damage. Just make sure to rinse the models whilst scrubbing them and let them soak in soapy water for a bit afterwards. At the moment Fairy Power Spray is on offer in Wilkinsons stores across the UK for £2.00 per bottle, stock up if you need to and while you can because it's usually double that! Info was provided to me by B&C member Aqualinus and I am extremely grateful :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaptejn Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Hey all! I put my models in a bathe of green soap (soap made from pine tree oil) for about 24 hours. You can really just rub the paint away or use any kind of sponge or soft toothbrush to make them 100% clean. So far I've tested this with shaders, base colours and layers. Not sure if it'll remove glazes or the primer. It won't work on the spray undercoat either. Noteworthy is that this is friendly for both you (no strong solvents) and the environment! EDIT: Spelling and forgot to wish you all a Merry Christmas :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaeron Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I just Fairy Power Spray, and nothing else. Put them in a cup shaped container so you dont need to use too much Leave them to soak and scrub off the paint with an old toothbrush. Its brilliant stuff and doesn't leave gunk at all I recently stripped 20+ plastic, resin & metal minis with Fairy Power Spray and an Electric Toothbrush. All the minis were submerged in the same plastic tub for approx 2 hours (I poured the entire bottle on top of them). After 2 hours the paint was visibly starting to loosen from the models. I took the minis out one at a time and used an electric toothbrush to remove the paint. Afterwards I filled by bathroom sink with hot water, dumped all the minis into it and then gave them another scrub with the electric toothbrush and left them to dry. From submerging them in Fairy Power Spray to putting them out to dry, total time was approx. 4 hours. My Findings: 1) Metal Models come out looking brand new. 2) Resin Models clean up very nicely as well. 3) Plastic Models clean up well, although if the model was undercoated with blackspray paint, the black will have stained the plastic. 4) If you have based your models with woodglue & sand, the fairy power spray will loosen this as well. 5) An Electric Toothbrush may cost more than a normal one, but you will save yourself so much arm ache! B) In all cases, I managed to get approx 80-90% of the paint off, and my models are now waiting for new arms before they get a new coat of paint! This is my next job... huzzah! Shame I have so many to do :D. Thank you to Razblood for the advice - I'll see if I can pick any up when I'm in Wilko today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeardMonk Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Morning! This is a useful thread. Iv got a big job lot of Valhallan Ice Warriors (about 4 squads, HQ and some mortars) that I bought off eBay a while that need to be stripped back to metal before I can do anything with them. What is peoples experience of using Nitro-mors on job lots? Or is it best to do them in small batches? Not too fussed if it’s a slow process as this is a slow time project! I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zopha Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I've been trying Fairy Power Spray with some mixed results, how does it hold up to multiple uses? I have a small plastic container that I can fit three terminators or a landspeeder that I've been using to strip terminators and landspeeders :) and it's on it's fifth use now. It seems to get most of the paint off but has hard time on the undercoat for eveything I've put in it and I'm getting similar results if I leave a model in for 3 hours or overnight and it's not just a case of stained plastic. Detol worked really well for me on a dreadnought that had enough paint on it to qualify it as part of the Paint-test marine chapter, I just hate the smell and the gunk that comes with it so I want to avoid using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EzekyleVIII Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Greetings brothers and sisters! I made a recent discovery! Cif kitchen from poundland, soak the model for about an hour, or more if your feeling saucey (left a termie in while ive been at work today about 8 hours) also I have cut the bristles for extra scrubbing power, plastic totally untouched, a little persistence and the paint comes off the detail, the model is basically as new! Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaganLinuxGeek Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Has anyone here tried stripping Finecast yet? Yes, I used the SuperClean Degreaser to strip two finecast figures. It worked well with a 20 minute soak and then some toothbrush action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razblood Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Greetings brothers and sisters! I made a recent discovery! Cif kitchen from poundland, soak the model for about an hour, or more if your feeling saucey (left a termie in while ive been at work today about 8 hours) also I have cut the bristles for extra scrubbing power, plastic totally untouched, a little persistence and the paint comes off the detail, the model is basically as new! Hope this helps Yes, yes it does :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaeron Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Morning! This is a useful thread. Iv got a big job lot of Valhallan Ice Warriors (about 4 squads, HQ and some mortars) that I bought off eBay a while that need to be stripped back to metal before I can do anything with them. What is peoples experience of using Nitro-mors on job lots? Or is it best to do them in small batches? Not too fussed if it’s a slow process as this is a slow time project! I I used it on probably double that - worked a charm. Paint comes off so easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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