Targol Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Hi all. As I always have ten projects as the same time to avoid being blocked on a single one, while my RTV mold for the jet pack is drying, I started to convert the AoBR Dreadnought to transform it in a decent IronClad for my Dragon's sons. The first step was to represent the heavier armor plating of the clad. To do so in a dragon way, I thought that scales should do the trick. As I didn't want to sculpt them directly on the dread, I decided to build a "print" that will allow to mold several scales plates that I can use for various purposes and pieces. So I made a Milliput(1) plate on which I marked the inverted scales using an hexagonal key given with "DIY furnitures" (sorry I can't find a correct translation for these Ikea type furnitures). http://idata.over-blog.com/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread02.jpg After the master print has dried, I covered it with vaslin oil and spread GreenStuff(1) on it using a roll just like a pastry cook : http://idata.over-blog.com/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread03.jpg Note the 2 rolls at each side of the master to control final plate thickness. Here is the (covered with vaslin oil) result : http://idata.over-blog.com/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread04.jpg Once cut and glued on the dread : http://idata.over-blog.com/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread08.jpghttp://idata.over-blog.com/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread09.jpg (1) The choice of resin type is important here : For the master, I wanted something hard and solid so I chose the Milliput. For the scales plate itself, I needed a more soft result that could be bent and chose the Green Stuff More to come later.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khrangar Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 The plating looks great. I really like how the scales came out. The tool is called a hex/allen key. Khrangar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Angelus Sanctus Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 A very impressive idea about the scales, well done :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoby Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 At first I thought it would just look like honeycomb but you got really good results from this. By the way, furniture like you get from ikea is usually called flat-pack furniture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother_Beork Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Cool way of making costum texture stamps I never thought of sclaes this way... This should make scale cloaks a bit easier for me. Beork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiodome Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyrox Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very clever, me likey! Look forward to following this thread :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlmb_123 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 That is a very cool effect. How come the mould you've made looks flat, but the scales which you've cast in green stuff are overlapping? Can you explain the science behind it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Thanks to all for these great words (or smileys :D ) that warmed my old heart ... Yes, this was my 39th birthday last sunday. Thanks also for the vocabulary help. How come the mould you've made looks flat, but the scales which you've cast in green stuff are overlapping? Can you explain the science behind it? It's not a question of science but a question of angle : the allen key has been push down with always the same angle onto the milliput. The Idea is to have one side of the key print deeper than other one. On First picture, the top of every key print is deeper than its bottom. While inverted by the molding process, it gives the overlapping impression. Hope it's clearer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShinyRhino Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very nice work. The overlap effect is very striking, and I'd be willing to bet that it'll look even better when painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Anvilus Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 okay, if allowed, consider this idea nicked :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very nice work. The overlap effect is very striking, and I'd be willing to bet that it'll look even better when painted.I'll experiment my newly bought airbrush on it. I hope It'll be fine... okay, if allowed, consider this idea nicked :DOf course it's allowed. If I didn't want I wouldn't have explained how to do it ;) ... And U'r a Dragon brother :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NemFX Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Nice one. I'm damned tempted to copy that idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulkan454 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 I really like the scales man, i may consider doing them for my Salamanders army. How long did it take you to put all the marks in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Nice one. I'm damned tempted to copy that idea. Copy anything you think good enough to be copied ! I really like the scales man, i may consider doing them for my Salamanders army. The more I work on this army, the more I think the dragon theme can lead my conversions near salamanders look : scales an heavy flamers everywhere :lol: . How long did it take you to put all the marks in? For what is about time, I didn't spend more than half an hour to make the prints on the master. You know, there's no many scales to print. I think the time and difficulty raise if you make smaller scales. Mines are 3mm wide so it's quite easy to do. The advantage is that, on real animals, scales are always slightly different one and another. As is, It's no big deal if you're not too regular. Look at my master : top scale line is far for being parallel bottom one and it's not too disturbing while glued on the dread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulkan454 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Ok thanks that really doesn't take much time at all. Do you have to use miliput? would anything else work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 Do you have to use miliput? would anything else work? Yes, resine choice is important as I said in my first post : The choice of resin type is important here : For the master, I wanted something hard and solid so I chose the Milliput. For the scales plate itself, I needed a more soft result that could be bent and chose the Green Stuff By the way, if you don't have Milliput, you can use another resin type like sculptey or any resin that, once dry, become hard and stiff. The idea is to avoid Green stuff or any kind of resin that stays soft once dry. The advantages of using hard resin for the master are double: if made with soft resin, the master should loose its shape under the pressure of the rolling process while making the scales. the difference of softness of the master and the scales print will help to separate them after the print GS is dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulkan454 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Oh right i missed that bit. Is milliput expensive? and how is it available in england? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrible_Trygon Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Very smart, very smart indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 Oh right i missed that bit. Is milliput expensive? and how is it available in england? As I'm located in France, my Google returns me answers from French online stores. I'm sure that Google.uk should give plenty answers with UK shops (onlines or IRL) <_< Very smart, very smart indeed. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 Some (illustrated) news of the "scaly guy" : http://img.over-blog.com/300x326/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread11.jpg http://img.over-blog.com/300x326/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread12.jpg Some work on the arm too : http://img.over-blog.com/300x326/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread10.jpg PS : This time, I posted smaller pictures. Just follow links for higher definitions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Loring Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Those scales and the method used are awesome. One of my templars may just have to slay a dragon and get a nice little cloak??? Great work, keep it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOtakuGundam Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 I hope you don't mind if i use the scales method for my Dragon Guard Shoulder pads? :whistling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the great beaver Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 if its soft enough to bend then how come it doesnt get ruined when you push on it with your fingers? and if it's hard enough not to be squished when you push it then how is it soft enough to bend around the armour to fit? very awesome stuff dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Targol Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 I hope you don't mind if i use the scales method for my Dragon Guard Shoulder pads? :angry: If I wanted to keep it for me, I shouldn't have shared. So, if you find that idea good enough to be used, use without restriction. It's open source hobby :lol: if its soft enough to bend then how come it doesnt get ruined when you push on it with your fingers? and if it's hard enough not to be squished when you push it then how is it soft enough to bend around the armour to fit? It's just because it's Green Stuff. This resin stays soft when dried but keep small details. I make the scales plates on my milliput mold, let it dry and, when dried, I remove it from the mold. The natural softness of GS allow it to be bent even when dry. By the way, (very) few update (I have family at home these days so not much time for the hobby). Just some more plating : http://img.over-blog.com/300x326/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread13.jpg http://img.over-blog.com/300x326/2/62/28/18/SM-Dread/Dread14.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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