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Sanguinary Guard Quickshade based


Saphos

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been wondering about continuing to paint after using quickshade (planning to buy some army painter quickshade dark), but I wanted to know if it prevents further work.

 

Nice job btw, I particularly love how GW bull:cussted every aspect of your materials used... would have been a bit more honest to just not say much of anything.

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You can.. But you have to make sure you do not put the quick shade on too thick, or you may lose detail. I used Quickshade on my latest characters. Namely Dante, Aphael and Tycho. I used it on the main body of colour, then painted in detail afterwards.

 

In short. Yes you can, but you have to be carefull.

 

Again, thank you for getting me onto Quickshade Saphos. Really wasn't sure how I'd manage my NMM without it. :jaw:

 

CTK

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@ Cain

 

Thanks a lot. :D I am always glad to help. I should work out a bonus scheme with Armypainter. ^^

 

@ Sisko11

 

Please read my post from 21.4. If you feel like pointless GW-bashing, please go somewhere else. Thanks for the compliments nonetheless. :D

 

@ painting over Shade.

 

I have not tried it and will not likely do so as this will be besides the point of my use of the Shade. But I read that it will work. The surface of the shade is quite slick after hardening so you might have difficulties in getting the paint to stick on. Good luck and post results. I am always curious about other´s work in that field. This tutorial has painting over a woodstain (Quickshade is basically that): http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...;showarticle=37

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Whoa, pointless GW bashing????

 

I understand it's annoying for people to flame, but don't be so abrupt about it if in this particular case, there is reason to be disappointed with how they dealt with your work, even if you aren't bothered. There are probably quite a few people out there trying to reproduce the look you achieved with a devlan mud wash, and we both know they won't get the results they expect or hope to achieve.

 

Even then, I don't think what I wrote was particularly rude, inflammatory or off mark. I simply said it would have been a higher road to simply omit the recipe rather than lie about it to their advantage. It could have been phrased in a much more hysterical and aggressive manner.

 

Sorry for perpetuating, I am not trying to pick a fight or argue, but I really didn't appreciate that comment. I hope the above backs up a compassionate and reasonable argument to be disappointed, not a 'pointless bash'.

 

Back OT, I am very curious to give this a shot, I will be attempting it with the extra regular termies I built for my space hulk: complete project blog on Dakka Dakka. I should get around to posting the BA side on here, but since it includes scratch-sculpted hybrids of every generation as a big part of it, I can't put the whole thing up. So far just a lot of conversion and basecoating on the BA side, only Lorenzo is finished. I'll pop them up when a few more termies are done though, especially will be interesting to do a side by side of the traditional method vs the quickshade method, should also time myself on both too.

 

Which quickshade are you using specifically? And when you brush it on, how do you treat it? Is it water soluable, do you dilute, does it run like an ink? Sorry to bombard with questions but I like to do my research on new techniques, and especially take advantage of people who have achieved great results like yourself :tu:

 

EDIT: just saw the tutorial, questions answered, thanks for sharing with all of us!

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I'm also interested in specifically the application of the quickshade as well. I know you brush instead of dip, but is there more to it?

 

Reason i ask about painting over the quickshade, is that ive been planning a gold armoured space marine chapter for a while, and was planning on adding checkered (white/cream and dark red) details. i'm worried that the quickshade will mess up a checkered pattern. Doing up a test model, and received my quickshade and varnish today, so i guess best way to find out is to try it.

 

Btw, dont think i said before, your sang guard are amazing, well done =)

 

Edit: I read your post about using quickshade in the tutorials section, which cleaned up most of my questions, thanks!

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Provided you let the pattern dry thuroughly before you apply the quickshade, the pattern will not be harmed. However, if you are wanting a pure white, or even a very pale cream colour, I suggest either painting these colours after the quickshade, or not using the quick shade at all. (I guess you could use the light tone quickshade. But I haven't used this or seen anyone else who has.)

 

From my limited experience with quickshade, it does not react with Citadel paints, nor does it make them streek. Also, Citadel paints stick to the quickshade just as well as they do to the plastics themselves. But as I have said before, if the quickshade is applied to thickly, you will lose the detail definition and any subsequent layers of paint will not look right.

 

CTK

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Cain is spot on, S`Jet.

 

If there are any questions left, I am happy to try to answer them. :Elite: I am glad that my musings on Quickshade use were helpful. I wrote them down after being asked exactly that several times.

 

@ Sisko11

 

Your project sounds really interesting. I hope it fares well.

 

As for your comment your longer explanation is indeed much more understandable than your first comment. Actually my comment on your post was a much milder reaction than harsher "bashing" on your side would have entailed from my side. If you feel unfairly treated this way I recommend trying to formulate your criticism like you did in your second post in the first place and I am sure less problems will be had with being correctly interpreted. As "GW bull:cussted every aspect of your materials used... would have been a bit more honest to just not say much of anything" is not "a compassionate and reasonable argument to be disappointed" in my opinion.

 

I don´t share your feeling of disappointment, I was not upfront with them, they guessed, end of story. Even if the result in using Devlan Mud is slightly different it is actually quite close. I will be trying that out at some point in the near future as this is a constant debate here with a friend of mine who works at the independent retailer here. When I posted my Venerable Dreadnought to them (back in march), I was honest about the Quickshade use but recommended to them to say it is a wash. So if they remembered that part from last time (as I wrote this time nothing about it), it is me who you should blame for selfcensure to get my pictures posted to a large audience. :HS:

 

Well, I propose for us all to go back to painting some nice miniatures and to further the "League of the extraordinary quickshading gentlemen (girls allowed!)". :FA: Give me eyecandy, people! ;)

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fair enough dude! I assumed wrongly that you told them how you did it and they fubbed the recipe to their advantage, so, to be a man about it, I was in fact bashing despite my good intent! lol, thanks for setting me straight, no sarcasm, should have asked first!

 

If you want to check out that project, I would love your feedback on it if you are so inclined! http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/forums/show/56.page, be warned though, extremely pic heave 7 page blog lol

 

Look forward to seeing more of your stuff bro, cheers!

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You´re welcome. :) The post I referred you to in my first answer spelled it out but I didn´t make that clear enough as I see now. So I try to take my own advice in spelling things out clearer.

 

I am currently putting together my Shrike-standin. Another thread here put me on the idea in magnetising him as I use a torsofront that doesn´t have jumppackbelts. Pictures to come next week. I am currently really motivated, a thing rarely seen miniatureswise with me in the last couple of years. :)

 

Edit: Wow, everybody should check out that blog as it seriously cool sh... stuff. ^^ Spacehulk the way it should really be.

 

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/284539.page

 

Best

 

Saphos

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