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Tutorial - Magnetising Space Marine Vehicles

Magnets Marines Vehicles Land raider Rhino Predator

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#1
elmo

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Hi Guys, be nice as this will be my first post on here.

IMGP5394.jpg


I am a keen user of magnets in all my models and having just compleated my own Predator for my Dark Angels 4th Company.

I decided to try to save time and simplify construction, the quantity and size of magnets required and with a minimum skill level for the modeller.

I will try to keep in a logical sequence for the explanation but if you have any questions just ask and I will add it to the tutorial.

To begin with you will need:
1. Rare earth magnets (easily available on various websites)
10 x 2mm x 2mm
2 x 7mm x 2mm

2. Metal plates approximate sizes only (I used my old snap off hobby knife blades) about 1mm thick.
4 x 7mm x 12mm (Doors)
2 x 5mm x 10mm (main weapons)

3. Drill and 2mm drill bit. (I use an electric hobby drill with multiple speed set on slow)

4. Super glue and plastic glue

5. Sprue

The Hull.
Assemble the hull sides as per the instructions and simply remove the rivet from the middle of the door to allow a flush fit for the magnet then glue it down with super glue, the polarity does not matter. I have glued the magnet to the outer side of the hull as this allows me to fully detail the vehicle interior.

Hullmagnets.jpg

The Sponsons.

Sponsonfitted.jpg

I will split this down into sub assemblies.

The Doors.
Glue the door and the sponson attachment together and allow to dry.
Using super glue fix the larger metal plate centrally to the rear of each door. At the same time you can do the same thing to the rear of the standard doors using a piece of sprue to allow for the extra distance of the magnet. This will allow you to convert your Predator to a Rhino later if required.

Doors.jpg
IMGP5405.jpg

Sponson Hangers (correct name anyone?)
First use a sharp model knife to trim off the lugs at the base of the hanger then drill a hole to fit the small magnet.
Super glue the magnet in. I have reversed the polarity on each side so only the correct weapon fits on the correct side but this is optional.

Hangersmagnetised.jpg

The Heavy bolters
You will need to increase the size of the gap at the top of the Heavy bolter slightly to allow the magnet to fit through when the two halves are together. Then glue one of the small magnets into the existing hole on the outer part of the Heavy bolter. The best way is to get the hanger and allow another magnet to attach to it as this will ensure the correct polarity. Offer the hanger up to the Bolter remembering that the cut out goes to the front. Keeping the glue away from the hanger and wait for about 10 seconds until the glue sets on the bolter and remove the hanger. You can then backfill any gaps with the super glue.

Boltermagnets.jpg

The Lascannons
Follow the same procedure as above but you do not need to increase the size of the gap at the top. Make sure that the polarity is correct before using glue.

Lasmagnets.jpg

You should end up with this.
Weaponswithhangers.jpg

When you come to fit the sponson to the hanger simply slide the hanger into the slit at the top. The magnet will self-centre and make a firm lock but it will still allow the gun to pivot up and down.

The Turret
Again I have split this into sub-assemblies.

First glue together the autocannon and lascannon. Then the rear turret bin and lascannon battery. While you are waiting for this to dry you can work on the two halves of the turret.

Turret
Using 2 stright sections of sprue approximately 25mm long:

The sprue is shaped like a flat topped triangle. You will need to glue one piece wide edge forward and the other reversed to allow the triangles to fit flushly when the two turret halves are brought together (see the picture). These are glued using the pivot uprights as the attachment point. Test fit the two halves together whilst the glue is drying to get the placement just right and allow to dry overnight.

Spruelocation.jpg

Once dry you can then drill a hole for a small magnet in the centre of the sprue. Easiest is to again fit the two haves together and use clamps to hold it while you drill the hole. The hole should be mostly in one of the 2 sprue sections and you can then glue the magnet flush and again the polarity does not matter.

Magnetinturret.jpg

Turrethalvestogether.jpg

The turret is also drilled and fitted with a small magnet at the rear between the locating lugs for the bins.

Magnetforbox.jpg

The bin and Lascannon Battery
Drill a hole between the 2 locating lugs and glue a magnet in each hole remember to check the polarity.

Magnetsinboxes.jpg

Main Gun
Cut off the 2 studs from either side of each gun. Sand about 2mm off the rear of the gun making sure that the sanded section remains square as this will show up later as drooping or raising of the guns line of fire. Then using super glue fit 1 of the small metal plates to each gun and test to make sure of a correct fit.

Gunrear.jpg

You should end up with the following - a fully interchangable turret.

Autocannonturret.jpgLasturret.jpg

I have just finished a Rhino/Whirlwind model (later in this thread) and found that the various remaining hatches and the turret do not require magnetisation to the hull as they fit snuggly.

IMGP5411.jpgIMGP5408.jpg

IMGP5398.jpg

More photos can be seen at: http://s814.photobuc...../Dark Angels/

I hope this helps others, any questions just ask and I will be happy to help.

Elmo


Edited by Elmo9141, 19 October 2014 - 12:50 PM.


#2
Brother Melice

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Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#3
Matzaklr

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For the main gun, what about cutting off the pivot lugs and counter sinking some magnets there and then put matching magnets into the turret where the lugs would have gone. I haven't seen that done yet and wonder if there is a reason. Otherwise, good job on that tutorial

#4
rusty1109

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For the main gun, what about cutting off the pivot lugs and counter sinking some magnets there and then put matching magnets into the turret where the lugs would have gone. I haven't seen that done yet


You've not played me :P
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#5
elmo

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I tried to keep the main gun as simple as I could with minimum magnets to keep the costs down.

I have found that the more magnets included, the more chances of making a mistake ie with polarity.

It has worked well so far :(

#6
Tengo

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Here are some questions that I PM'd Elmo and his answers, he suggested posting the Q&A here, to serve as a sort of FAQ for others with questions:


Does strength matter? Is N50 too strong? It seems pretty strong

The magnets I use are the rare earth type - I have no idea what strength they are but go with the strongest you can find!

Do you have to use different size magnets? I was hoping to economise and just get along with a set of 50 2x1mm magnets.

My main magnet is now 1.5 x 1.5mm. This is mainly due to only needing a small hole drilled to fit them into. Some of the parts I have had to magnetise have been very small eg weapons grips on vehicle commanders. 2mm should be fine for most general work.

How easy is it to separate two attracted magnets? Will parts of the model come apart before the magnets do?

I have not yet had a problem with magnets being pulled out of their holes. Remember to use superglue to secure them in place. You can also fit them a little deeper and spread a little glue over the top to cap them in but try with out this at first as this weakens the magnetic attraction.

Do you need metal sheets? Can you not just use a second magnet?

No problems using a second magnet - in the Pred I was just saving money by not using as many. Remember when using a pair of magnets that the polarity has to be correct. If you use 2 magnets rather than a piece of metal/nail head then the force of attraction is greater so this is better for heavy pieces.

What is the effect on magnetising metal models? Is it the same deal there, is it even possible?

I have yet to try it on a metal model. As the metal is white lead (none magnetic) the metal itself is not the problem, it is the weight of the parts which will cause problems. You may have to go for a larger, more powerful magnet. I have used pairs of 4 x 3mm magnets for a Tau Hammerhead turret and this is a very strong option.

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#7
mustardParty

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Great Tutorial!

I've been thinking of getting more out of my mags by using metals instead of pairing magnets - but what is your source of metal? If I goto the hardware store for instance, what should I be looking for. I haven't figured that part out yet.

#8
elmo

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Thanks mp.

I recycle my old hobby knife snap off blades using a pair of wire cutters to make them as small as required (use safety glasses when doing this!)

You can also use nails for small pieces - cut just below the flat nail head so it is about 3 mm long, drill a hole in the plastic piece and insert the nail head into it using superglue to hold it in place.


2. Metal plates approximate sizes only (I used my old snap off hobby knife blades) about 1mm thick.
4 x 7mm x 12mm (Doors)
2 x 5mm x 10mm (main weapons)



#9
Brother-Chaplain Nemiel

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:P just :lol:

Bookmarked and told the Inner Circle i nominate you for Master of the Forge, very good job Brother!


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#10
Brother-Chaplain Nemiel

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Since i got kinda lots of tanks still unbuild i guess i could maximise the use of all of them :lol: ...need to make a full inventory of all my stuff omg, endless possibilities open up :P


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#11
elmo

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Missile loadout magnetisation.

Posted Image

A simpler project to the Predator was to magnetise the two different missile types on the whirlwind

This project uses the same tools as the Predator but only requires 2 of the small magnets (2mm x 2mm)

First step was to assemble the missile boxes less the front section with the missiles molded on.

Small pieces of broken knife blade were then glued on the back of each missile moulding.

Posted Image

3 small lengths of sprue where glued together and then cut to size and glued into the missile box opening remember to check for position with the missile mouldings.

Posted Image

Once dry, one hole was drilled into each sprue assembly and a single magnet was super glued into each hole (circled in red).

Then just paint up and you have the option of the different missile types.

The next picture uses the hatch for the Hunter killer missile.

Posted Image

The recesses in the missile where cut into slots using a sharp knife so it simply slides onto the bracket rather than being a permament fixture.

Posted Image

On the opposite side I glued the small radar dish. This means if I use the Hunter killer I just unslot it from the mount so there is no confusion which vehicle has or hasn't got a missile left. The dish can be used to signify a command variant.

A word of caution... If you are going to have the cupola open be careful how wide you open the hatch sections as it can be obstructed by the missile.

Posted Image

#12
elmo

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As I magnetise new models I will keep updating this thread.

Stay tuned :)

#13
elmo

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Coming soon - Transformer Tank

Posted Image

#14
Olis

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Coming soon - Transformer Tank


I warn you now, if that doesn't transform into a giant space marine, I shall be most disappointed...

(Excellent work, brother.)
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#15
elmo

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Not a giant Space Marine but it does transform into a .....

Vindicutioner© :confused:
Posted Image

#16
Grevous

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This tutorial was worth registering and taking the time to say thank you. How you have done the sponsons on the predator has inspired me!

#17
elmo

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You're very welcome - hopefully the next vehicle will will too ;)

#18
elmo

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Magnetised Vindicator/Rhino


Initial WIP thread here

You will need:

Vindicator kit - 1

Magnets:
2x2mm - 6
7x3mm - 10

Stainless steel plates - I use old "snap off" knife blades
Various sizes - 12

Pindrill/Dremmel
2mm drill bit (HSS is best)

and your normal kit building supplies - glue/knife/files etc.....

Note - the only time you will need to worry about the polarity of the magnets is for the Vindicator front and the Siege Shield and I have highlighted these in RED



1. Prep work

Remove the vehicle parts from the sprues (less the accessories sprue as we don't need that yet)
Remove mold lines and clean up as per usual
I drill out the exhausts at this point using a 2 or 2.5mm drill - optional



2. Top plate

Posted Image

Glue on 6 of the 7x3mm magnets as shown - keep the polarity the same on the front two.
The top 4 magnets fit over the small circular mold dimple on the top plate - Thanks GW :lol:



3. Vindicator front

Posted Image

Glue together the front as shown in the photo above - The eagle is optional.

Wait for it to dry.

Posted Image

Glue 2 of the steel plates as shown.
Use the 2mm drill to bore holes for the 2x2mm magnets under the headlights - do not drill too far, just deep enough so the magnets fit flush.
Insert the magnets - make sure the polarity is correct so they are attracted to the 2 magnets previously glued on the front of the top plate.

You will need to shorten the rod for the cannon due to one of the steel plates. Test fit before glueing.



4. Vindicator top

Posted Image

Glue 4 small steel plates as shown in the photo - these will work with the magnets fitted into the top plate in stage 1 to hold this firmly in place.



5. Sides

Posted Image

Posted Image

Glue 4 of the 7x3mm magnets as shown (2 on either side - 1 inner/1 outer).



6. Rhino doors

Posted Image

Glue on 2 short sections of sprue on the rear of the door and when dry glue a long steel plate onto these sprues



7. Rhino front

Posted Image

Glue on 2 steel plates as shown in the photo



8. Vindicator doors

Posted Image

Glue on 2 short sections of sprue on the rear of the door and when dry glue a long steel plate onto these sprues



9. Siege Shield - the tricky bit

Posted Image

Glue the sides onto the Siege Shield and allow it to dry.

Glue 2 of the 2x2mm magnets into the recess (I have used the left side but you can glue them on either side)
Make sure that the polarity is the same

Posted Image

Cut off the raised central part off the support arm, drill 2 - 2mm holes at least 1mm deeper than the magnets you are using and join them together to make an oval.
Put the last 2 small magnets on top of the ones glued onto the Shield. DO NOT GLUE
Put a small amount of glue into the oval (wipe off any excess) and offer it up to the magnets - they will then be glued to the correct depth in the support arm and when you pull it away they should stay in the support while the other 2 stay on the Shield.



10. Assembly

Posted Image

Posted Image

Assemble the remaining parts as per the instructions but do not glue on the parts shown in stages 3,4,7 and 8 as these are interchangable and do not glue the Siege Shield support plates onto the rhino body.e

Glue the shell crane onto the rear of the Vindicator top plate like this
Posted Image




You should end up with this
Posted Image


Congratulations - you should now have a fully interchangeable Vindicator/Rhino

Posted Image

Posted Image



Added bonus

You can combine the previous Predator/Razorback/whirlwind tutorials together however you want - I made the Vindicutioner :lol: ;)



Designers note - if you find any areas that you think require further explanation (or better English :woot: ) please add it as a comment and I will edit this tutorial as required.

As this is now the third one I have built I may have missed something that I am now used to doing......


Edit1 - poor spooking :rolleyes: (thanks to Cypher 102)

Edited by Elmo9141, 28 September 2012 - 07:57 PM.


#19
Brother Intolerance

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Hey, long time lurker, first time poster here, working on a predator for my BT army, cant find 7mm x 2mm magnets, just wondering would 6mm x 1.5mm work aswell as the 7mm? Thanks, also great job, one of the best magnet jobs Ive seen in my time of lurking :)
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#20
elmo

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Thanks :)

6 x 1.5mm should work fine - it would just mean that there would be a little more of a gap between the metal plate and the magnet face, you may have to add another plate ontop of the one behind the door as a spacer.

Test fit before you get carried away with the superglue ;)

#21
luckymutt

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The Vindicutioner is AWESOME! What do your oponents think ;)

#22
dRewsus

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Gotta say, this is a fantastic article. Much appreciated. Thank you.

#23
elmo

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The Vindicutioner is AWESOME! What do your oponents think Posted Image


Not played it yet - waiting to see whats in the new codex plus it would not be very fair ;)

It was more a case of playing around with the magnetised bits and out came the Vindicutioner

dRewsus - you are very welcome :)

#24
Aridene

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Nice tutorail , I have been doing abou that same thing with mine also. I just use alot more magnets as I magnetize the turret guns by the sides so they can slew up and down and also got my blade is able to move up and down. I would post some pics but I am currently away from home till Feb. Thanks for this tutorial thou, totally missed that I could being using some metal strips to save alot of the magnets I have used. And I love how your 3 vind's blades make a large symbol. Looking foward to seeing more of your work

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#25
elmo

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The Ares is now a WIP. http://www.bolterand...n-begins/page-2

Once it is done I will be tidying it up and adding it to this thread. Thanks for your patience - normal service will be resumed as soon as possible ;)

Edited by Elmo9141, 07 November 2013 - 11:55 AM.