The Sekhmet+HH Emperor's Children: Imperial Fists Deathwing 12/4/24

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Excellent work on the Daemon of Khorne.

[Soulhunter1995]

Ahhh that bloodletter warms the cockles of my daemonic heart   I would love to see you try out the new Keeper of Secrets when it comes out 

[MagicMan]

The base is awesome.

 

I really dig the limited colour palette as well, the Brass Blade is a nice touch. Simple, but yet so Khorne.

[dogfender]

Astonishing work as usual!

 

Now when will you bless us with a Relictor.. :p

[PowerHungryMonkey]

Love the Terminator. Your battale damage always looks so good.

 

The Bloodletter is fantastic. I think simply smoothing out all the joins (like that forehead ridge they always get) has really brought the model to life. Coupled with a beautiful paint job and thematic base of course.

[sockwithaticket]

That base really is fantastic, it;s almost a shame you only get a good look at it from an overhead POV

[Atia]

Awesome work on the cute bloodletter, especially that base <3

[GlowClatius]

Amazing stuff!

[Deathcrow]

More deamons and chaos pls!!!

[Kizzdougs]

I had the pleasure of taking my Alpha Legion to a Horus Heresy Strategic Raid event yesterday. I had three great games against a Shattered Legions force of White Scars and Iron Hands, the Ultramarines, and Salamanders with an allied detachment of Solar Auxillia.

 

I would have liked to have taken more pictures, but as is always the way with events I got caught up in the excitement of the games and forgot to...

 

The Khan's warriors strike deep into the Alpha Legion lines.

 

The infiltrating Legion Seekers identify their primary target.

 

The two Seekers that survived the Arcus' barrage execute their mandate (before falling to the vengeful Gorgon Terminators and Forge Lord).

 

 

The Alpha Legion deploys. Their targets, the XIIIth Legion's command structure.

 

Taking advantage of their scout capability, the XXth Legion Terminators rush towards to Ulramarine's lines before unleashing a deadly barrage of plasma from their combi-weapons. Likewise, the Legion Seekers use scout to reposition themselves ready to add their Scorpius bolts to the Alpha Legion's devastating opening salvo.

 

With his bodyguard slain around him, the Ultramarine Praetor makes a valiant last ditch charge to avenge his fallen brothers. He managed to drag down several of the XXth Legion elite before he was brought low by a hail of powerfist attacks.

 

 

The Alpha Legion prepare to defend themselves from their Salamander and Solar Auxillia foes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is fantastic! The paint job on the bloodletter is great and the extra detail added to the base and the fluff reason for it is awesome.

Thanks a lot bro! Glad you like the base and the daemon.

 

The base is really nicely done, the sticky gore especially. The brass blade works well against the red of the daemon itself.

Thanks a lot! Much appreciated.

 

Excellent work on the Daemon of Khorne.

Thanks a lot, bro!

 

Ahhh that bloodletter warms the cockles of my daemonic heart   I would love to see you try out the new Keeper of Secrets when it comes out 

Thanks! I don't have any plans for the Keeper of Secrets at the moment, but it could happen sometime.

 

The base is awesome.

 

I really dig the limited colour palette as well, the Brass Blade is a nice touch. Simple, but yet so Khorne.

Thanks! I had a lot of fun with the base and I've always considered brass blades to be a key Khornate theme.

 

Astonishing work as usual!

Now when will you bless us with a Relictor..

Thanks a lot! I've always been interested in the Relictors, but my inspiration for anything 40k is pretty low these days. 

 

Love the Terminator. Your battale damage always looks so good.

 

The Bloodletter is fantastic. I think simply smoothing out all the joins (like that forehead ridge they always get) has really brought the model to life. Coupled with a beautiful paint job and thematic base of course.

Thanks a lot! I really enjoy adding the weathering and battle damage to minis. Yeah, the bloodletters have some really obvious joins, but luckily they're pretty easy to cover up.

 

That base really is fantastic, it;s almost a shame you only get a good look at it from an overhead POV

Yeah, I knew it would be difficult to see. That's why I took some pics of it before I attached the daemon.

 

Awesome work on the cute bloodletter, especially that base <3

Thanks a lot! Much appreciated.

 

Amazing stuff!

Thanks very much!

 

More deamons and chaos pls!!!

Glad you like him!

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking ;)

[Augustus b'Raass]

Love the Night Lord and Bloodletter, dude. Very nice work. A shame you didn't take more pics of the battles! Did you win any? :)

[hushrong]

Nice to see pics of the XX in action!

[Deathcrow]

Nice to see your army in action!

[Atia]

Oh god that battlereport .... awesome to see fully painted armies, especially to that standard. You made my day buddy 

[Kizzdougs]

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

 

Love the Night Lord and Bloodletter, dude. Very nice work. A shame you didn't take more pics of the battles! Did you win any?

Thanks a lot bro, much appreciated! I had a very narrow loss in the first game against the White Scars and Iron Hands, I tabled the Ultramarines in the second, and had a very solid win against the Salamanders in the third.

 

Nice to see pics of the XX in action!

Glad you like them!

 

Nice to see your army in action!

Thanks, glad you like the pics!

 

Oh god that battlereport .... awesome to see fully painted armies, especially to that standard. You made my day buddy 

Yeah, it's always great to play such great armies. Fortunately most of our Heresy events are fully painted and the standard of painting is pretty high (I haven't won best painted for a couple of years now) :)

 

 

Thanks for looking ;)

[Kizzdougs]

Alpha Legion Tutorial: 2.0

 

 

 

 

Hey everyone,

 

It’s been a while, but it’s time for another tutorial. This one will be a bit different to my other tutorials because it relies on an airbrush. I’ve spent the year or so playing around with the airbrush and that’s part of the reason I haven’t been posting tutorials. Hopefully I’ll be able to post tutorials more regularly now.

 

 

 

The Alpha Legion

 

Firstly, a side note: when I refer to the “Alpha Legion colour scheme” I’m referring to Forge World’s metallic blue scheme which shifts between azure and turquoise. I fully recognise that there is no one ‘official’ Alpha Legion colour scheme and this is made clear on page 91 of Extermination where is says that:

… the Alpha Legion has been witnessed in liveries of pale grey, gleaming steel, viridian, dull bronze, sable, indigo, amaranth and azure blue – both in main and combination.

 

The Alpha Legion has always been one of my favourite Legions and they have a fantastic colour scheme that looks fantastic on the table, but it is a colour scheme that has always been a bit of a challenge. This was especially true because I didn’t own an airbrush and therefore couldn’t replicate the Forge World colour scheme. Fortunately, after a long search I was able to get my hands on some Tamiya Light Metallic Blue spray-paint (TS45) and my Alpha Legion force became a reality.

 

 

The Tamiya spray-can served me well, especially on the infantry. However, its limitations were really exposed when it came to painting dreadnoughts and vehicle. It just couldn’t compete with the airbrush scheme when it came to creating colour contrasts on large miniatures and it always looked a bit flat. So I decided that if I wanted to expand my Alpha Legion army to include more tanks, flyers and walkers I needed to finally have a go at the airbrush colour scheme.

 

 

 

 

Paints and Equipment:

 

Chaos Black Spray Primer

Vallejo Gunmetal Grey (from the Metal Color range)

Vallejo Game Air Silver

Nuln Oil Gloss

Tamiya Clear Blue (X-23)

Tamiya Clear Green (X-25)

Abaddon Black

Rhinox Hide

Leadbelcher

Tamiya Flat Black

Tamiya Neutral Grey

Tamiya Flat White

Scale Color Kalahari Orange

Burnt Umber Oil Paint

 

Tamiya Acrylic Paint Thinner X-20A

Vallejo Airbrush Thinner

Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish

Vallejo Gloss Acrylic Varnish

Micro Set

Micro Sol

Forge World Weathering Powder: Aged Rust

AK Heavy Chipping Fluid

White Spirit

 

A note of paint: people always ask for the exact colours that I use and I’m happy to share that information, but at the end of the day it’s all about using a colour that you like. The exact colour or brand doesn’t really matter. For example I used Vallejo Gunmetal Grey and Vallejo Game Air Silver for the silver pre-shade, but if you wanted to stick to Citadel paints or don’t have access to the Vallejo range you could just use Leadbelcher and Stormhost Silver. If I want to paint a particular Legion I just go down to my local hobby shop and look at all of the colours until I find what I want (if you don’t have a local hobby shop you can just look online). When I was looking for the blue my Night Lord Terminator Destroy I had no idea which paint or even which range of paints I wanted to use, but I just found a colour that looked right and went with it.

 

 

 

1. The pre-shade:

• I started off by priming the test piece with Citadel Chaos Black spray primer.
• I then used the airbrush to apply the Vallejo Gunmetal Grey (from the Metal Color range) consistently across the whole piece.
• Next I used the airbrush to fade in some Vallejo Game Air Silver, focusing on the top half of the test piece.
• Once the silver had dried I used Citadel Nuln Oil Gloss to ‘black-line’ the piece. I chose to use the gloss version because gloss washes have a better flow to them and are less susceptible to pooling.
• After letting the Nuln Oil dry I use the Vallejo Silver to edge highlight the piece as well as adding some small ‘scratches’ to the lower portions of the Rhino (where you’d expect rocks and other debris to kick up and damage the paint work).
• Last of all I gave the whole piece a coat of gloss varnish. And boom! Your Iron Warriors scheme is finished! ;)
• I also used some blue tack to mask off a couple of sections that I wanted to stay silver.

 

 

2. The blue:

• The next step was to give the piece several thin coats of Tamiya Clear Blue. When using the Tamiya colours I’ve found that it’s really important to use Tamiya thinner. I tried using Vallejo thinner with the Tamiya Clear Blue (by accident) when I painted my Alpharius and it was a disaster.

 

3. The green:

• When it comes to the Tamiya Clear Green the amount that you add is really up to you. The more you add the more turquoise the mini will look.
• I decided to use it to help blend the transition between the dark and light blue. I painted a horizontal band of the green across the piece. The band was about 1/3 of the piece wide.
• Unfortunately the green doesn’t show up very well in the pictures. It’s definitely more noticeable irl.
• Again, I gave the mini a coat of gloss varnish to finish off the step.

 

4. The white band:

• After masking off the stripe I gave it a couple of coats of AK Heavy Chipping Fluid.
• Its really important to make sure that you seal the mini with gloss varnish (and give it time to dry) before applying the chipping fluid.
• I also removed the blue tack that was masking off a couple of sections, but this could be done at another time if preferred.

 

5.

• I gave the stripe a consistent coat of Tamiay Neutral Grey.

 

6.

• I then used Tamiya Flat White over the grey, but made sure to leave some of the grey on the lower part of the piece to match the light/dark transition of the blue.

 

7.

• Once the white had properly dried I carefully removed the tape. It’s important to make sure the paint has completely dried before removing the tape.
• Make sure you inspect the stripe for any imperfections. These can easily be fixed in the next stage. If you look at the top left-hand corner of my stripe you cant see that it’s a bit wonky.

 

8.

• The chipping fluid it water reactive so I took a paint brush and gave the white stripe a generous covering of clean water and gave it a minute to sit.
• I then used a sculpting tool, wooden skewer and a pin to make the scratches that I wanted. Focus on edges and raised areas and use it to break up clean lines in the paint.

 

 

Keep reading for part 2 :tu:

 

[Kizzdougs]

Alpha Legion Tutorial: 2.0 part 2.

 

 

9. Decals:

• The decals are from the Forge World Alpha Legion sheet (the only thing I’ve bought from FW since they decided to increase their prices by 40% for Australians).
• I used Micro Set to help apply them and then gave them a coat of Micro Sol once they were in place.
• I then left them to set overnight before giving them a coat of gloss varnish to seal them in place.

 

10. Oil Paint:

• After making sure that the whole piece was well protected with a coat of gloss varnish (and making sure that the varnish had properly dried) I applied the Burnt Umber oil paint (I chose the Burnt Umber because it has a lot of red in it which fits well with the desert basing of my AL and really contrasts very nicely with the blue and green).
• To achieve this I used the lid of a jar, added a small dollop of the oil paint and then a generous splash of the white spirit.
• I then added the oil paint to the spirit until I had the right consistency and then applied it to the test piece using a medium layer brush.
• I mostly kept the oil paint to the recesses of the model as well as around the rivets and tracks.
• Apart form the white spirit oil paints are very user friendly. You can easily go back afterwards and clean up any mistakes with a little bit of the spirit.
• Once the oil paint had dried I seal it with some varnish. This is important because the oil paint doesn’t dry in the same way as acrylics and will still react to water/paint etc. even after it appears to be dry.

 

11. Sponge Chipping:

• Before I started on the sponge chipping I took the opportunity to add some damage to the decals. Damaging the decals really helps to tie them to the rest of the scheme. Pristine decals look really out of place on a weathered model.
• Just a word of caution regarding the decals. Be carefully when you’re adding the damage or you with tear off more than you planned to. I used a hobby knife, metal sculpting tool and a pin to tear/cut away little bits of the decals.
• The actual sponge chipping was achieved with a mix of Abaddon Black and Rhinox Hide applied with a small piece of sponge (similar to what used to come in the old blister packs) held by a pare of long nosed tweezers.
• With the sponging it is important to dab the sponge up and down rather than allow it to move on the model. Of course if you want to add some streaks of damage to the model then you can move the sponge accordingly, but for general application an up and down action is preferred.
• As with most damage the chipping was focused on the areas that would suffer the most wear and tear ie the front and bottom of the vehicle, any raised areas such as the cowling for the exhausts and the foot rungs on the door as well as around the edge of the door. This was particularly difficult because the model was already assembled and in hindsight I would have used blue tack to attach the door for painting so that I could remove it for the chipping stage.

 

12.

• Next up I used Leadbelcher to add the metallic chipping. This was applied in the same way as the black/brown chipping, but I made sure to leave a little of the previous step showing.

 

13. Dust, Exhausts and Weathering powder:

• Next up I used some Kalahari Orange to add a dusty look around the bottom of the vehicle.
• This was applied with the airbrush and I made sure to keep it pretty light. I went a bit overboard with it on a Medusa that I painted last week and I wasn’t happy with how it looked.
• I finished off the model by painting some soot stains on the exhausts using Tamiya Flat Black through the airbrush.
• I also added some Aged Rust weathering powder to the lower part of the vehicle in particular around the lower rivets. I used white spirit to apply the weathering powder in a similar manner to the oil paint.
• In hindsight I probably wouldn’t bother with the weathering powder as the oil paint and Kalahari Orange had already created a sufficiently dust look.

Last of all I finished the whole thing by giving it a thin coat of satin varnish (50/50 gloss and matt varnish). This helps to protect the paint job and it also takes away some of the overly glossy sheen of the gloss varnish without completely dulling the metallic section of the model.

 

 

 

I hope someone finds this helpful. Please feel free to comment or message me if you have any questions.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking ;)

[Atia]

Aweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesooooome    

[hushrong]

This is bad ass! You and that spray gun are a killer combo with the recent paint jobs you’ve been churning out. Believe me, if I ever get an spray gun for paint I will be copying you as best as possible. The colors you are achieving are top notch! For now I’m just going to stick to using your tamiya style, which finally enabled me to start my own AL.

 

Speaking of Tamiya I was wondering if I could ask a question. I have a bottle of the clear green I use on the AL just as you do, did you ever have an issue with it getting thick and gooey? I don’t know if there is something I can do to fix this or just buy a new pot? Wondering if you (or any frater) Dan into this.

[Vazzy]

Kizz, excellent tutorial. I've mostly finished my infantry with the old technique, but have a fire raptor and javelin that need work so this will be perfect!

 

Also, where are you getting your destroyer symbols from? Or are they freehand?

 

Hushrong, are you shaking the bottle properly and sealing it? I've had my clear green for 4 years and have no issues as long as I shake it and thin it with the tamiya thinner.

Edited May 10, 2019 by Vazzy

[Deathcrow]

Will use this tutorial defenitly! Thank you!

[Augustus b'Raass]

Great tutorial!

Be warned though, Kizzy: you seem to have mucked up the front tracks. The lower link sloping forward and upwards should be a three-link piece, then a vertical one-piece, and then a back and upward sloping two-piece! Similarly, the rear backwards and upwards sloping track should be three-linked, then a vertical one-link, and then a forwards&upwards two-link. 

[Deathcrow]

40%!!! MAN THAT SUCKS, YOU SHOULD GO RECAST MAN!

[Augustus b'Raass]

[Kizzdougs]

Thanks for the kind words, everyone! I'm trying out the scheme on some Tactical Marines at the moment.

 

 

Aweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesooooome    

Thanks, glad you like it :)

 

This is bad ass! You and that spray gun are a killer combo with the recent paint jobs you’ve been churning out. Believe me, if I ever get an spray gun for paint I will be copying you as best as possible. The colors you are achieving are top notch! For now I’m just going to stick to using your tamiya style, which finally enabled me to start my own AL.

Speaking of Tamiya I was wondering if I could ask a question. I have a bottle of the clear green I use on the AL just as you do, did you ever have an issue with it getting thick and gooey? I don’t know if there is something I can do to fix this or just buy a new pot? Wondering if you (or any frater) Dan into this.

Glad you like the results, bro! My Clear Green has gone a thick as well. It's probably something to do with a bad seal or something similar. I've found that once I add the Tamiya thinner to it I don't have any problems.

 

Kizz, excellent tutorial. I've mostly finished my infantry with the old technique, but have a fire raptor and javelin that need work so this will be perfect!

Also, where are you getting your destroyer symbols from? Or are they freehand?

Hushrong, are you shaking the bottle properly and sealing it? I've had my clear green for 4 years and have no issues as long as I shake it and thin it with the tamiya thinner.

Awesome! I look forward to seeing your work.

The Destroyer decals are from the Sons of Horus sheet (as I mentioned to you on Insta).

 

Will use this tutorial defenitly! Thank you!

Great! I hope that you find it useful.

 

Great tutorial!

Be warned though, Kizzy: you seem to have mucked up the front tracks. The lower link sloping forward and upwards should be a three-link piece, then a vertical one-piece, and then a back and upward sloping two-piece! Similarly, the rear backwards and upwards sloping track should be three-linked, then a vertical one-link, and then a forwards&upwards two-link. 

Thanks a lot, bro! Also, don't worry about the tracks. The side of the rhino was a random piece that I won in a bits box as part of a prize for a conversion comp and was already assembled when I got it. Thanks for the concern though :tu:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking ;)