MordentHex Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Regarding the weight I have certain ideas as to how to reproduce the upper works to convey the massiveness whil keeping the overall weight to a minimum. How well I succeed remains to be seen. biggrin.gif I've also started working on my reaver titans upper body armor plating and such and its daunting to say the least so far. So much plastic card i have to bend and reshape. Luckily i got plenty of it and some extra just in case i screw up on the first try. Its very trial and error, I imagine you will experience something similar unless you got computer made diagrams with all the specific sizes and measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 First let me apologize for such a tawdry post but I figured there are those that might benefit from an image from the beginning of the construction. The waist block is probably the most important structure in the whole model. Not only must it bear the weight of the structure above but it must transfer that weight to the movable legs and sustain that transfer for the conceivable future (At least until The Blackadder has shuffled off this mortal coil.) You will note that the structure is grossly undersized as it is about 5 cm square. This is intentional. You can always add girth, subtracting is more difficult. tomorrow I shall apply my solution to the articulation problem; i.e. a workable material that will sustain the pressure of the upper works and still be small enough to remain within scale. In addition the thigh detail is coming along nicely (IMHO) http://i.imgur.com/ndbbS.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ndbbSl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 I found these marvelous 'Tee' fittings that are just perfect to supply the fore to aft swing of the hip joint. They take a nice 1/4 -20 thread and are strong enough to support the weight of the model without being too cumbersome. I was going to go with copper tube 'Tee' fittings filled with epoxy and drilled and tapped but these are better as they are machined perfect and the tap self centers when cutting the thread. Now some readers of this may baulk at the employment of these tools but they are easy to use and readily available at the local 'Home Depot' or 'Lowes' and a cheap 'T' handle and tap set is adequate for modeling purposes. I happen to have a fairly good machinist set but that quality is not necessary. http://i.imgur.com/X28BG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/X28BGl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/823ZR.jpg http://i.imgur.com/823ZRl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Angel Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Nice solution. I always figured that Titans had skeletal structures like Battlemechs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Nice solution. I always figured that Titans had skeletal structures like Battlemechs. I would not doubt for a second who ever thought of titans first was an avid battletech player. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Frankly I don't see it. Titans appear to be spin offs of Star Wars ATAT's and ATST's Today I worked on the pelvic mechanism which needs a bit of revising. Even though it works just as I wanted the sphere halves need to be undercut to fit the 'Tee' fittings thereby retreating further into the pelvic block. Therefore I need to mount the 'Tees' further outboard so they will be visible and allow for a great range of motion. http://i.imgur.com/kiq1U.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kiq1Ul.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LjIlP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LjIlPl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 It strikes me that this model is insufficiently complex. Just kidding but over the weekend I received a query on another forum as to whether I was going to include an interior to the cockpit. I had alway intended to make the cockpit interior but it got me to thinking about my regrets when building the Lucie Warhound; namely no interior whatsoever. So........... I threw together a front view of the compartments this weekend just so I could get a feel for how the various areas might be arranged. Surprisingly it all fits and each compartment has about an 11 ft ceiling. My dementia is serving me well. Naturally the cockpit will be forward of the bridge and is not represented in this diagram. http://i.imgur.com/eJxy0.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eJxy0l.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 you forgot a bathroom! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Nope! They'll be in Quarters, and Engineering towards th rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Who needs toilets? Peeing off the side is so much more fun. :lol: Glad to see you adding yet more complexity to the beast - just don't make it too difficult, okay? I'd much prefer a happy Blackadder to a stressed Blackadder. :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexCrute Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 I've a feeling that happy Blackadder and stressed Blackadder are one and the same. Nobody undertakes detail on that scale except under the happy compulsion of hobby madness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 I'm toying with the idea of stacking the decks like a child's stacking toy about the center pivot post: http://images.landofnod.com/is/image/LandO...?$FP$ This should afford ease in viewing the internal detail. There are so many interlocking armour plates that alignment should be relatively easy to maintain plus there is the added bonus of modular construction which should facilitate modification and repair not to mention adding lighting at a later date as opposed to wiring it as I build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 I just finished reinforcing the top and bottom of the block with 3mm scrap plastic which will give plenty of strength to this all important area as small as it is it must take all the weight and movement from the above structure and also the legs. Theres a 10 inch 3/8 ths diameter inch bolt threaded through 'Tee' nuts top and bottom and the for to aft hip gimbals are mounted with 10-32 screws through 'Tee' nuts as well. There is a 7/16 dia. inch tube inside of a 1/2 dia. inch tube as a compression spacer that the pivot rod runs through and the whole is strong enough to stand on if you don't weigh 18 stone. Now that I've taken the pictures I can seal the gimbals in under their cap plates and the pelvis will be completed. http://i.imgur.com/EloLM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EloLMl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Gl1GE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Gl1GEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/JZ9tO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/JZ9tOl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 this is getting really hardcore, will it also walk? I love it <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 No, no walking but only because of the limited size of most Battle boards. Okay let's recap for the week to establish where we stand. The pelvic block is basically done and the legs are basically done except for the detail. Now the cross 'Tees' are temporarily in place to establish the width of the hips and allow for the splaying of the legs ala the 'classic Reaver pose'. http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Images/Product/DefaultFW/xlarge/Reaver.jpg I figure I should get this in before the weekend as I will be working on the 'hip articulation' whilst everyone is off having a life for the next few days. I can see already that my greatest fear has been allayed and the pelvic block is not too big and that I actually have to increase the width of the hip joints once the hip gimbals are installed. For that I shall have to employ a couple of PVC fittings to house the spheres and fill them with resin so they will take a thread much in the manner of the Lucie hip joints but this much larger model gives me the luxury of two articulation points instead of one that the limited space in Lucie provided. http://i.imgur.com/QrSyc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QrSycl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GXt6s.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GXt6sl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kj875.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kj875l.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 For that I shall have to employ a couple of PVC fittings to house the spheres and fill them with resin so they will take a thread much in the manner of the Lucie hip joints but this much larger model gives me the luxury of two articulation points instead of one that the limited space in Lucie provided. Thats a great idea. I never thought to actually do that with my scratchbuild reaver titan. consider that stolen ^_^ Good luck resin get so messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 BFN China? Is that Shenzhen, Guangdong Provence? My threads are reaching further than I expected. BTW China is making some amazing finds in the field of paleontology, any interest in that? ............................. Now we will further address the manufacture of the pelvis/hip attachment. I found some ideal PVC 1 inch pipe nipple to PVC tubing adapters that fill the bill for the hip joint ideally. There is even an internal shoulder ridge after the threaded portion is cut off to act as the race flange for the gimbal sphere to be retained by. The remaining sleeve is drilled, tapped, and countersunk to receive the 1/4 inch axle screws............ (I apologize for the American Standard measures but there isn't the diversity in metric hardware available on this side of the pond for me to render this in metric components. There may very well be metric items that equal or exceed the materials used but they are not available to me .)............. As I was saying, using only 1/2 the hip sphere it leaves ample room for the epoxy plug in the end of the sleeve to be threaded and hold the leg attachment screw. I hope to achieve this later today. http://i.imgur.com/noiY9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/noiY9l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pFMWZ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pFMWZl.jpg Note the degree of flexibility that can be achieved with this setup. Stops will have to be added to cut down on this amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Shanxi, China No im not interested in doing anything in china "scientific" as that causes even more red tape than norm. Just the normal American dude trying to make a living. Ok not normal because i actually love this stuff but you get the idea. :( I think im the only owner of a scratch bult titan myself in at least 1000 km. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Time for the weekly recap along with a pic in pic comparison with the DS model. I have to admit waiting for the resin to dry consumed a lot of the production time but I worked my butt off to get to this stage and it's a testament to the durability of this thing that nothing snapped as I slapped the components together. Now I know the legs look a bit thin but if you look at the comparison shot and mentally remove the armour and spurious hydraulics there is a reasonable case for verisimilitude. The images are self-explanatory when taken in conjunction with the recent WIP posts but I can explain any area that anyone might be unclear about. http://i.imgur.com/CQ1BA.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CQ1BAl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uQF8B.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uQF8Bl.jpg This is a very bad pose but it does demonstrate the flexibility of the design. http://i.imgur.com/NVgrW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NVgrWl.jpg A pose reminiscent of the classic Reaver stance. http://i.imgur.com/I8lZN.jpg http://i.imgur.com/I8lZNl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Mkwk0.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Mkwk0l.jpg A pic-in-pic comparison with the DS model. http://i.imgur.com/pUzzc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pUzzcl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 As you may know I post on a lot of fora and the question/criticism I get most often is that the legs look too thin. When I was building Lucie that was the most frequent observation and I appreciated the kind intent to warn me of impending mistakes. It turns out that I kept increasing the cross section of Lucie's legs until I realized a reference namely the banners on the knee segment. It turns out that Lucie's appendages are much more robust than the FW model and the latter looks anorexic vis-à-vis Lucie. Now the same concern is being voiced regarding this model and I do appreciate the critique; I'm also a bit anxious about it so I 'shopped the DS leg from the back removing all the front armour and if anything the legs actually look thinner than my titan's. I couldn't remove the hydraulics. http://i.imgur.com/Kgq0Z.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Kgq0Zl.jpg There are a few inconsistencies as my ankle discs is thicker than his but I needed that to make the ankle flex. and I have one more dart in the zipper-like design running over the front and back of the upper leg but thats just a matter of artistic interpretation as there are only five or six on the epic model. So to paraphrase the line of 'The Black Adder' in the Infanta's Beard episode, "So Percy, what you are telling me is something you've never seen is slightly less thick than something else you've never seen." The incorrigible Blackadder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzy-xc Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yours looks fine, keep it going bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 This just in: New information regarding the size of the legs: The fine line of madness seems to be serving me in good stead. My son on return from college apprises me that there is a perfect Leman Russ component that will verify or refute the scale and width of the leg components. He recognized right off that the ankle disc leveling device on the DS Warlord is actually the dozer blade actuator of the Leman Russ item 4 on the image below and that all I need do is apply it to the rear of the lower leg to determine if my eye was off or on regarding the width of the DS model. http://i.imgur.com/dP8Gd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dP8Gdl.jpg The images below vindicate my perception at least regarding the lower leg width as it appears that I cannot be off by more than the tiniest fraction of a millimeter,. whew! http://i.imgur.com/bATIm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/bATIml.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sfSNd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sfSNdl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MordentHex Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Holy crap, your Warlord is going to be a giant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackadder Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 Actually only between 24 and 26 inches tall............... Started on the greaves yesterday, it's interesting that such a simple looking panel is so difficult to get right. There are so many compound angles on these that I had to invent new ways to make them. I settled on a twelve mm thickness for the basic structure, most of the Warlords I see have armour way too thick to be practical. 12 mm translates to 2.57142857 feet which I believe is quite thick enough considering that the Iowa class battleships (the heaviest armoured ships ever built) have a belt thickness of only 19 inches. Given that in the far off bellicose future there is ceramic and/or depleted uranium armour; 30 inches seems to me to be more than sufficient. http://i.imgur.com/0wuVH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0wuVHl.jpg Unless it don't look right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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