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Scratch build BT Thunderhawk


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I love making paper models, I always did. I also like Warhammer very much. And one day I decided to combine my two biggest passions.

 

A long time ago, I found somewhere in the Internet templates for a Thunderhawk gunship. Normally it costs A LOT. But it also has the looks and I always wanted one for my Crusade. So I've bought some polystyrene sheets and got cracking.

 

All in all, I'm going to post here WIP pictures of my cheap Thunderhawk. Here's the first picture: an interior wall.

 

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4179/p1050844v.jpg

 

I'll be posting more pictures soon.

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This is a topic I'll be following with great interest. I love the Thunderhawk, but I'm a long way off being able to buy one. Sadly, I'd prob'ly make a mess of it if I tried to scratch build one but I'm looking forward to watching yours take shape in future updates. Good luck, dude...
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I am in the middle of doing the same thing, however just so everyone knows, doing all those little pipes and wires and light fixtures and doing it all in plasticard/greenstuff is enough to make you INSANE. Just wait until you get to the cockpit area, that is a real treat once it's completed.

 

I wanted to rip my hair out after completing 2 prior attempts with different failures for each.

I have attempted this with foam core (I wasn't sure how to deal with the thickness of the foam core and still maintain the interior/exterior sizes, so that failed)

I have attempted this with heavy card stock 150lb (I didn't realize white glue literally destroys and warps card stock beyond use because of the water content)

 

I have to know what thickness of sheets are you using for the sides, floor and so on?

What glue are you using? I stuck with super glue as it's all I have.

 

I am using 0.25mm thickness styrene sheets and plan to layer as per the instructions to give it some rigidity.

As it stands right now it's pretty flimsy.

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Thanks for you replies and interest. Hopefully, I'll post today another picture: the opposite interior wall.

 

@ merc3065

 

I'm using sheets of different thickness at my own discretion. However, I use mainly 1mm thick sheets, at least for now: for the interior walls and planning to use it for the the outside plating too (I guess that most paper models are designed for 1mm cardboard). My biggest concern though is the engines - plasticard/polystyrene doesn't bend easily and I can't find pipes of the required diameter. For those, I'm planning to use 2-3 layers of 2,5mm : the idea is that they will be more malleable.

 

As for the glue, I'm using the expensive Army Painter Plastic Glue (polystyrene cement). Yes, it is expensive but is simply amazing: when it comes to joining plastic bits it's strong like super glue but doesn't ruin your fingers and doesn't glue your skin to the model :tu: . For the pipes (which are made from metal paper-clips) super glue is a must.

 

I hope this answers your questions ;) . I'm also a plasticard novice - this is my first attempt at making "plastic" models, so I'm definitely no expert and my knowledge is rather limited and comes entirely from my small experience.

 

EDIT: Pictures!! :)

 

2nd interior wall:

http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/6171/p1050848du.jpg

 

the two walls together:

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3592/p1050849.jpg

 

and some more:

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/1719/p1050851p.jpg

 

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7408/p1050850v.jpg[/img]

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, making models in the eve of the examination session isn't a good idea. Here's some progress though. The side walls and the floor are primed, the ceiling and the back wall are almost done.

 

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3047/p1050865p.jpg

 

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/6865/p1050860l.jpg

 

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/8990/p1050859v.jpg

 

And a dry fitted major-part of the interior (can't wait to paint and assemble it!).

 

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/5668/p1050862g.jpg

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I am in the middle of doing the same thing, however just so everyone knows, doing all those little pipes and wires and light fixtures and doing it all in plasticard/greenstuff is enough to make you INSANE. Just wait until you get to the cockpit area, that is a real treat once it's completed.

 

I wanted to rip my hair out after completing 2 prior attempts with different failures for each.

I have attempted this with foam core (I wasn't sure how to deal with the thickness of the foam core and still maintain the interior/exterior sizes, so that failed)

I have attempted this with heavy card stock 150lb (I didn't realize white glue literally destroys and warps card stock beyond use because of the water content)

 

I have to know what thickness of sheets are you using for the sides, floor and so on?

What glue are you using? I stuck with super glue as it's all I have.

 

I am using 0.25mm thickness styrene sheets and plan to layer as per the instructions to give it some rigidity.

As it stands right now it's pretty flimsy.

 

check out world work games, they are a paper terrain company, ive brought some of their stuff but they have very detailed basic tutortails on how to work with card stock including what glue to use

 

having seen this now im going to give it a go myself, i'm not going to do the inside detail as i'm lazy and i glue all my models shut anyway so you never see the insides

 

my local GW manger told me never to buy the forge world one as the kit doesnt go togeather well (he then showed me the thunderhawk and he may a swell have made it from greenstuff considering the amount he has to use filling gaps)

 

so thank you for inspiring me and im looking forward to seeing how you progress

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Hey dude, those are awesome!!!! I have those same templates....makes me want to dig them out.....

If you're willing to make it a little bit easier on yourself, I came up with the following solution for engines, as well, I could'nt be bothered

gallery_48988_6285_288507.jpg

Very simple and straight forward, both Storm Raven engines glued end on end. for the T/Hawk you'd need to bitz hunt for 3 pairs of engines, but it'd save a shirt-load of time.

Cheers,

Jono

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Again, thanks for your replies ;) . The Facebook TH... it's splendid! It differs from the standard, FW model. But is sort of unique... It would be cool to build one, however it is something impossible for me right now.

 

@ Brother Sellsword

 

Yes, I considered using those, but can't find the right diamiter (and I'm quite pedantic and want it to be the right size). But making those is reserved for the future.

 

@ Grotsmasha

 

I sort of would like to make it easier, but getting Storm Raven engines is impossible for me: the prices are just killing! I want to make this "project" as cheap as possible, because it is just a modelling-hobby thing. I honestly doubt that I will ever be able to field my entire force, including the (hopefully) finished Thunderhawk. And now a cliché: I'm a student and don't have enough funds :tu: "normal" Warhammer and assembling my "normal" crusade demands a lot of sacrifice.

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I have to point something out about the roof of the cargo bay.

 

You need to make sure there is a tiny space between those 2 boxes for the support beam that goes between the 2 outer walls.

 

I found this out when making the paper card version of it.

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I need you advice on this one: WP_000024.jpg?psid=1

 

This is supposed to be the floor of the cockpit which is supposed to be covered in anti-slip metal :P . I know it is not perfect, well in fact it doesn't look good at all. What do you think about it? I'm considering leaving it (because it will not be visible) or making a smooth floor. What do you think? Keep it or leave it?

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If it was me, I'd want to get all the basic structure in place for the psychological win, then do the external detail. Then I'd game with it and probably never get around the cockpit. You could try diagonal strips of card, but as long as you paint on lines afterwards I think the dots will work fine.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I wish I had your level of patience and dedication. It's turning out really, really well at this point.

 

Have to empathize with not wanting to buy a Forgeworld model. You pay them hundreds of dollars (or whatever play money they use in your country), and they ship you a model that is miscast and barely fits together, lol. The lack of QA absolutely astounds me, especially for big ticket items.

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I need you advice on this one: WP_000024.jpg?psid=1

 

This is supposed to be the floor of the cockpit which is supposed to be covered in anti-slip metal :) . I know it is not perfect, well in fact it doesn't look good at all. What do you think about it? I'm considering leaving it (because it will not be visible) or making a smooth floor. What do you think? Keep it or leave it?

 

You can get this stuff online, search for 'diamond tread plate'

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@Veteran Sergeant

Funny you say that, but it's not about patience... well, this is just fun and a way of killing the time in the evenings. I'm more worried with my determination, which can fade as the time passes...

As I've said - I want to keep the cost down as much as it is possible and I want to have some Thunderhawk. The probelm is that due to the constant lack of time I'm not much of a player and I have the models just for the sake of having them and painting/modelling. And for a original TH are equal to a good Nikon camera or a decent laptop. FW are crazy with their prices!

@LamenterMarine

Yeah, I thought about buying it, but I can't find that anywhere near my location.

@War Angel

Thanks for the huge compliment :) I was glad to hear that.

 

I have a question to you, more experienced modellers. I'm thinking about future transport of the TH. It is a big model, and I'm thinking about magnetizing it so that the front (cargo bay) back/middle (everyging from the cargo bay, to the rear engine) and wings are detachable. It would make transporting and storing the flyer a lot easier. However, I'm sort of worried about the integrity of the model.

 

Do you think neodymium magnets can join the parts solidly so that the assembled model won't fall apart? The various parts of the finished model (especially the front part) will be quite heavy and I'm afraid that the model will "break" while standing.

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  • 1 month later...

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