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Blood Angels Reborn - New paint


Soups

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It funny how lazy you can be while being ambitious.

 

**Updated for 2013 ETL**

So after painting these little piece of plastic for 5 years now, apparently I have improved. I no longer paint each square decimiter of arm on the sprue, one layer at a time, then snip it off to repaint and shave the parts I missed. I figured out what a base coat is (Oh, those terrible streaks!). I found washes and figured out highlights. And with the advent of lost inks, I find there is no way for me to continue to paint new models the same way as the old! Especially with this airbrush I recently acquired. No brush strokes! it's like I'm no longer painting like a 5 year old! So into a bath went 40 guys with bolters and missiles!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00956.jpg
Left=Old models painted my "best". Middle=Base coat and highlights with airbrush Right=new paint scheme, for better or worse
big original= http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/So.../DSC00956-1.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00958.jpg
3 attempts at a color scheme. I picked the middle. And to show that, yes, I can do a highlight on a mouth grille that isn't lipstick hooker huge. Test models are good for testing
big original= http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/So.../DSC00958-1.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00957.jpg
what the end result should look like
big original= http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/So.../DSC00957-1.jpg

Yeah, I was tossing and turning thinking of a new chapter name. My tanks are red with black trim and accents, so the old yellow is something i can't thematically keep. So i am christening the Blood Talons with a new name... Angels of the Chalice (or grail). The runner up was Angels Crimson, but I'm not sure i can free hand wings that well.

This is also a place holder for the Lux competition, assuming the naked marines are not too far along for the challenge. I didn't know about it until after basecoating.

Edit: I chose Angels of the Grail for a chapter name. This way, I don't necessarily have to do wings (my free hand is awful).

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  • 2 weeks later...

and finally done doing base colors. Table ready, but highlights are still needed.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00961.jpg

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Brothers! Rejoice, as 40 new battle brothers have joined our Sons of Sanguinius. Presenting the newly formed, repainted, 1st and 2nd Tactical squads and 9th and 10th Devestator squads of the Angels of the Grail's 2nd Company.

 

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00963.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00964.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00965.jpg

 

Alot of work to force myself to to for the tenebrea Lux, but it does force me to do more work ;P

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They look great and is a boost to the painting competition.

 

I'm seriously contemplating getting myself an airbrush or the gw one. Purely to ease painting large areas.

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They look great and is a boost to the painting competition.

 

I'm seriously contemplating getting myself an airbrush or the gw one. Purely to ease painting large areas.

 

I'm not sure if it's true everywhere, but Michael's usually has a hard time selling airbrush pumps, and other airbrush supplies, so mine was ~40% off. Because they are so expensive. My airbrush and pump cost me $150 USD. Normally would be $220. It was in store, not online. If you have $200 laying around, you won't regret it. For as much as canned air costs, you will go through (so I'm told) a can per ten dudes. If you redo an army like me, it only really adds $2 per model. Deal.

 

Also...

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00966.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00967.jpg

 

*sniff* I'll miss you guys. See you in 3 days. *bwaaaaaaaaa!*

 

3 more days until I can prime. It's very humid in Wisconsin. Probably can't prime until Wednesday. a good 3 day soak.

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Hey soups lookin real good brother!

Please you gotta tell me the recipe for your air brush. I have had an airbrush for a long time but I find myself painting a darker coat and then a lighter overcoat and then still going back and painting nearly everything by hand anyways. So what's your recipe? in detail would really be nice to hear!

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I am the beginner of all beginners, as far as an airbrush goes. I spent a good 4 years painting by hand before going to airbrush (also went to school for art. This is my art degree in action...but no job :'( Hire me GW).

 

And I ONLY use the airbrush for basecoat and highlights. I do NOT have the control to do models entirely by airbrush. So hopefully I haven't given you a wrong impression. And table top quality is as far as I can go, without driving myself insane. I can do a good job at an HQ or neato model.

 

But assuming you don't care, I guess a step by step shall be provided.

 

Step 1: Choose your primer. I use black. Black is PERFECT for an airbrush, since you get to apply an even coat later on with the airbrush, so no brush strokes will show through, and has the added benefit of making a lazy man's shadow. White and Yellow, not so much, unless you want a dirty feel. Hopefully you know how to prime. It is VERY IMPORTANT YOU PRIME EVERY SURFACE. Wet paint from an airbrush has more water than the pot. Missed areas will not hold paint.

 

Step 2: Choose your airbrush, and mixture. I use a double action air vacuum. Alot of other people like gravity fed. Double action airbrushes with the pot on bottom works fine for me. It lets me take breaks, and reuse or store a paint mixture for later. Your paint/water ration works at 50/50 (I am really lazy. I take a GW paint pot, and fill it with water to the top. Give it a really good shake, and dump into the airbrush). Then you can mix to preference. *do not totally fill the airbrush paint pot to full. very leaky*

 

*note to new airbrush users. The double action airbrushes that use air to vacuum the paint. The bottom nozzle has to be adjusted to pull the air. The bottom nozzle opening will be about in the middle of the air line's opening. AND KEEP YOUR PAINT LINE CLEAN. I use a stripped down twisty tie to poke the line clean, as paint will dry in there, and it's easier to clean when wet, than dry. always wash your airbrush when done.

 

*double note: Big area. cover it in news paper. Make a back stop out of cardboard. and air brush is like a spray paint can. paint WILL get everywhere.

 

Step 3: doing things. Once it's primed, I give it a quick once-over with the basecoat (mechadrite/mephiston red). Enough so when viewed from eye-level and a table view, everything is covered. When dried, I look at all the places you missed. Give quick sprays to the areas you want covered in the basecoat, just enough so it's not black. You can then go over the model again the same way you did it the first time. This gives a shadow effect, so the parts facing the ground (or on crevices) is darker. This has a directed shadow effect.

 

Step 4: Highlights. No, not real highlights. Once you are done basecoating, pick a lighter color. Like, alot lighter (for me, I used Baal Red. Or is is wazbakka red? Fire-hydrant red.) This is a mid tone to simulate a sun or something. I quickly, and gently directly over the top of the model, hit it with the lighter red. You know you did it too much when your basecoat no longer shows on thighs and torsos. The pauldrons and helmet will more than likely be red now, but the feet should not be covered to much. It adds to the directed lighting from above I wanted to achieve.

 

*summary: Top bright. Bottom, darker*

 

Step 5: Wash. Pick a wash. You can use the GW red wash. I made my own wash. Red Gore (it's a step above mech red, and below baal red). This will fill in the neat etchings in power armor, and fill in the neck, and creases. I use a paint brush, to get the joints in real good. An airbrush will be 75-80% water

 

Step 6 through infinity: Colors colors colors. Everything not red (or whatever color you are going for).

 

Step 7: Paintbrush highlights. Hit your mid-height places with lines of your color you uses to get the highlight. (pauldrons, boot toes, exposed joints, backpack, helmet ridges) or exposed bits you want to pop. This adds definition to flat spaces. This way hands don't look plain, elbows too. So for me, I did baal red. The paint will be a higher concentration then what you did with the airbrush, so it will be a true highlight.

 

Then hit you shiniest things with blazing orange. use white for yellow or gold for you Lementers.

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"Oh, what have we here?"

scrolls down, reading.

"Very nice, very informative!"

copy..... paste.... save....

 

"What now was my eBay account?"

 

 

Great post, friend. I'm gonna use your advice soon. Thank you. :tu:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update: Stripped and span. primered, basecoated and yadda yadda. Time to spend a good week or so painting black and basing.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00968.jpg

And bikes! the 6th sneaky peaky makes bikes look as good as terminators. Into the simple green ya go!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00969.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00970.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Brothers! Rejoice, as 40 new battle brothers have joined our Sons of Sanguinius. Presenting the newly formed, repainted, 7th and 8th Assault squads of 2nd Company and 7th of the 3rd Company's Assault Squad and 10 Revered Veterans in Tactical Dreadnought Armor of the Angels of the Grail.

 

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00971.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00972.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00973.jpg

 

Take that, E Tenebre Lux! I know the picture quality is...horrible, absolutly horrible, but I figure it would be better to remember to post results, before deadline. I can take better ones, if anyone really cares. I was proud of my power weapons, since my previous incarnations are boring mithril silver or bad.

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Great work Soups. Is like a bit more info on the power weapons as its something I'd greatly like to improve upon.

There is nothing like a horde of marines going to war. When all my jump packs are in use there are almost 60 on the table (half is painted so far, though). There is no such thing as too many marines.

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  • 5 months later...

Wow, 6 months already? I better come up for air sometime, and lo-and-behold, I have new content.

 

The original Power weapons as promised:

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/BloodAngels-TerminarorSergeant2_zpse378c3e2.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/BloodAngels-TerminarorSergeant1_zps16e42910.jpg

 

And, I had some downtime this week and re-did some power weapons:

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/BloodAngels-AssaultSquad3_zpse4b5925b.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/BloodAngels-AssaultSquad2_zpsa1754b6c.jpg

 

And (NEW!) the Sanguinary Priest from the OLD Honor Guard box:

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/BloodAngels-SanguinaryPriest1_zps3a07c46d.jpg

 

 

So what is that thing in the middle? Surely it isn't a power maul? Oh, but it is. You might be able to tell, it is indeed a power axe haft with a meltabomb as the maul section. More painting later this week. I'm currently working on finishing my custom Librarian in Terminator Armor.

 

Until then...

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  • 3 months later...

Updating and using this for the ETL II

 

I, Soups, answer the call of E TENEBRAE LUX and

vow to complete [1 kitbashed Mephiston, 3 attack bikes w/ multimelta, 1
Furioso dreadnought with magna grapple and frag cannon, Drop pod for
said dreadnought, 10 death company w/ bolters, 2 Librarians (with
magnetic backpacks) with jump packs] from Codex: Blood Angels of total
value [1025 points] on or before August 15th.

 

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/SoupsMan/WarHammer40k/DSC00600_zpsd80c0393.jpg

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