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Angels Sorrowful WIP (01/04/17 update: Sanguinor WIP)


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I've never had this happen to me before ... Started a new can of Army Painter primer and my scouts are all fuzzy. Didn't think it was that humid out ... Sure didn't feel humid. Anyone know what I can do?? Strip them? If so what do you recommend.

 

Man I am so choked. I should have bought a can of Citadel.

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I've never had this happen to me before ... Started a new can of Army Painter primer and my scouts are all fuzzy. Didn't think it was that humid out ... Sure didn't feel humid. Anyone know what I can do?? Strip them? If so what do you recommend.

Man I am so choked. I should have bought a can of Citadel.

This may sound odd but try giving one of them a wash all over with a Citadel Shade (Nuln Oil or whatever). It has worked for me in the past. Failing that, strip em in isopropyl I'm afraid...

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I've never had this happen to me before ... Started a new can of Army Painter primer and my scouts are all fuzzy. Didn't think it was that humid out ... Sure didn't feel humid. Anyone know what I can do?? Strip them? If so what do you recommend.

Man I am so choked. I should have bought a can of Citadel.

This may sound odd but try giving one of them a wash all over with a Citadel Shade (Nuln Oil or whatever). It has worked for me in the past. Failing that, strip em in isopropyl I'm afraid...

Thanks ... I tried a wash of Nuln oil and it didn't seem to do anything sad.png

I've never stripped a miniature before and I really don't want to ruin these guys. What is isopropyl and where do you buy it? I've done some google searching and there seem to be a LOT of different options and I don't know which will be best here. Is there one that DOESN'T dissolve super glue? That's what I used on these guys and I'd really rather they not fall apart. Maybe it's time to buy another bottle of that Testor's plastic glue that actually melts the plastic.

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Simple green is a non toxic cleaning agent. Soak the minis for a day, scrub lightly with a toothbrush you don't use. If it doesn't come off with a bit of brushing, soak another day and try again. It works for me every single time. Resin, plastic, or metal.
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Isopropyl is rubbing alcohol, you can get it from Amazon. It won't affect the glue - I use it for thinning acrylics for my airbrush and cleaning it, as well as stripping.

 

Loads of people use Simple Green as suggested above.

 

I feel your pain - I had to strip a whole Stormraven for the same reason...

 

P.S. You really should use plastic cement for gluing plastic parts! GW sell it but Contacta is good too...

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Thanks for the suggestions, brothers.

 

I'll see if I can find some Simple Green. I read on a stripping tutorial on Dakka that it dissolves super glue, though.

 

I was also thinking of trying LA's Totally Awesome after reading this tutorial: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/365067.page

 

Seems my chances are 50/50 whether the glue will disappear on me or not. That's actually my biggest concern because these guys have lots of bits and I'm concerned I won't be able to get them just the way I want (which is how they are now) if the glue dies on me.

 

@LutherMax: Yeah, I used plastic cement for a long time ... until my bottle ran out. Then when I went to buy more, my local go-to hobby shop didn't have any in stock, so I bought some super glue and have been using the super glue since then and keep forgetting plastic cement because it's not a pressing need.

 

EDIT: P.S. ... where does one buy Simple Green? Is it sold at Wal-Mart? I know LATA is sold at Dollar Tree and there's one just down the street from my office so I was thinking of trying that, and if they didn't have any, hit Wal-Mart for Simple Green (if that's a product Wal-Mart carries).

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P.S. You really should use plastic cement for gluing plastic parts! GW sell it but Contacta is good too...

Except for not dissolving in your favourite stripping medium is there any other benefit of plastic cement? The bond with super glue is strong enough IMHO and cyanoacrylate does not melt the plastic, so removal of bits is easier if necessary.

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P.S. You really should use plastic cement for gluing plastic parts! GW sell it but Contacta is good too...

 

Except for not dissolving in your favourite stripping medium is there any other benefit of plastic cement? The bond with super glue is strong enough IMHO and cyanoacrylate does not melt the plastic, so removal of bits is easier if necessary.

I find superglue quite brittle and prone to coming apart on plastic or metal models (it's okay on resin because resin is porous). So yes if you want a temporary join and intend to separate the parts later for some reason superglue would be better, but polystyrene cement will give you a much stronger bond on plastic.

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Is that Simple Green?

 

By the way, when you come to re-prime, I think what did for my Stormraven was applying too much primer too quickly. I know it wasn't the paint itself as I've used the same bottle since. So be cautious and patient when spraying and you should be okay - but I would also test it out on a piece of sprue to be sure!

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Probably know this but just in case, army painter recommends holding the minis closer with army painter spray than citadel I believe (would have to double check the can, but mine says like 6-12inches for army painter and citadel is like 12 or more I think). I almost messed up some models before realizing that when I was switching between citadel and AP sprays...
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Is that Simple Green?

 

By the way, when you come to re-prime, I think what did for my Stormraven was applying too much primer too quickly. I know it wasn't the paint itself as I've used the same bottle since. So be cautious and patient when spraying and you should be okay - but I would also test it out on a piece of sprue to be sure!

 

No, it's LA's Totally Awesome. I didn't know where I could get Simple Green and didn't have time to search, whereas I knew Dollar Tree carried LATA ... and it only cost $1.40 CDN after taxes. So we'll see if it works as well as in the Dakka tutorial I read that recommends it! So far seems to be okay ... after about 8 hours I tried scrubbing one of the minis with an old toothbrush. Some of the primer came off but it's wasn't that easy so I put it back in. We'll see what it's like after a 12 hour soak.

 

Rather than trash the Army Painter can I am going to give it another try on a sprue in different conditions.

 

Probably know this but just in case, army painter recommends holding the minis closer with army painter spray than citadel I believe (would have to double check the can, but mine says like 6-12inches for army painter and citadel is like 12 or more I think). I almost messed up some models before realizing that when I was switching between citadel and AP sprays...

 

Yeah, I think it may have been a "perfect storm" of several small mistakes that on their own would not have had this result but in combination caused problems. I was holding the can at the distance I do with Citadel (the primer I usually use), plus I was doing it on my back patio which had the sun beating onto it so it was several degrees hotter than my weather app was saying it was. Plus there was moderate humidity. I think those combined meant the paint was drying too fast leading to the rough texture. So I'm going to try it in my cool, dry, basement with the can held closer and see how it goes (then air out the basement with a fan in the window to get the fumes out).

 

Also, I only shook the can for ~1 minute. Since this was the first time I was using it I should have shaken for about three minutes or so. I seem to remember now that the last time I used Army Painter (years ago), it required a fair bit more shaking than Citadel before use.

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Well the LA's Totally Awesome worked pretty well. After 23 hours about 90% of the primer had already dissolved off or came off with very light scrubbing.

 

I decided at that point to quit while I was ahead since none of the super glue bonds had come undone and they'd be in an addition 14 hours if I didn't call it quits then.

 

I re-primed them just now after shaking the can 3 minutes and testing it on some sprue. Seems fine. The scouts look good. There is some very slight stubbly texture on the spots where primer from the first attemp was still present. This is only noticeable upon close inspection however and only on two scouts so I think rather than re stripping those two I'm going to just forge ahead. They're scouts so a little bit of grit is acceptable.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, here they are, finally done:

med_gallery_66537_10027_407693.jpg

med_gallery_66537_10027_19490.jpg

med_gallery_66537_10027_113395.jpg

Only thing I'm not completely happy with is the camo cloaks (which are rolled-up on the top of their backpacks). The colours I used don't offer enough contrast. I may add some grey or another shade of green but not sure.

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