Death Guard CSM, Iron Warrior Legion, DIY Primaris LOPLOG

[Marius Perdo]

And with a very thin wash of Burnt Umber with a tiny bit of Lamp Black.

I am taking the advice and applying very thin, thinned layers and allowing to cure overnight. Anything too heavy I can remove with turps by thinning and dabbing with tissue.

Then a darker wash with more black in recesses. Then other more esoteric things like weathering powders and mud made with resin and plaster of paris and weathering powders.

[November]

Very nice approach to the bronze colour, your oil-based washes of umbar/lamp black are a nice touch too. Looking forward to seeing your forces completed.

[Marius Perdo]

@November: Thanks mate. We'll see how it goes. I have just had to lightly drag packing sponge dabbed in white spirit across the hull to lift excess pigment off it already. Clearly it still wasn't thin enough. Thankfully it is a forgiving material to work with.

 

When this one if finished and I have developed a basic proficiency with the techniques I will do all the other armour at the same time. Prior to that though I will need to get another pod built, and the Mortis dreadnought, built, undercoat and base coated with bronze.

 

Then I can production line and just move across to another vehicle as the same stage dries on the previous vehicle. It'll be a little bit tedious but they'll all end up done at the same time.

 

Thinking about it I shoulder really building Asterion's personal LR Redeemer transport (going to use a MKIIb and FW doors with a detachable magnestised impaled Astral Claws Chaplain Varna Sabin), finish off another almost built rhino and predator destructor, and possibly Aiakos. There is also the Storm Eagle Roc to consider, and the LR Achilles.

 

Thinking about it I might leave most of the second lot as a second wave. Too much all at once ends up daunting.

 

Regardless, this rhino to complete first as a test.

Edited June 26, 2014 by Marius Perdo

[deathspectersgt7]

Beautiful !! 

[The_Chaplain]

Are you doing anything special to differentiate the roc pattern from the stock storm eagle? I'm surprised to hear you're giving asterion a redeemer; I'd have pegged him for a Prometheus sort of fellow (especially with the Greek origin o the name)-- like the idea for the magnetization hood ornament tho. Love how the rhino looks after this set of washes.

[Marius Perdo]

@deathspectersgt7: Ta mate.

 

@The _Chaplain: Regards the Roc no, not thought that far. As for the Redeemer when Asterion is in the field and leading from the front he seems to have terminator bodyguards. They are at least 5 men squads and with him is at least 6, and bulky, thus the redeemer or crusader for transport. As the cannons melt marines and he is in an assault vehicle (close range) it seemed a given, and the first tank photo in IA10 is of a Minotaura Land Raider MKII Redeemer.

 

When doing strategic command he sits on his bronze throne in the centre of the maze in the Daedalos Krata. On the field he just stabs people up

 

I am saving my Prometheus for...not sure, but I do have one un-built.

Edited June 26, 2014 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

The thinned and more carefully applied burn umber/lamp black mix has been applied around details. I was curious to see what it looked liked under natural light, even if it is still inside the one hour drying period and still glistens. So even though overcast, and well past 8, I took some photos in the garden.

Note the next stage is to blend and tease out patchiness into streaks using a small dry brushed in a little white spirits. After that I'll apply a darker version of the same wash (more lamp black) to the tracks.

Then it'll be on to more detail painting and weathering and the "home straight".

Edit: Some observations:

Oil paints take a while to dry, as does gloss varnish. Certainly longer than an hour. Probably need to leave them on the window sill in sunlight whilst at work.

Whilst many of the techniques are forgiving they are slow.

I really recommend doing many armour models at once. As such I will build more models and bring them up to the base bronze spray before starting anything else so I can do a technique and move on to another model whilst it dries/cures.

I will still finish the Rhino first as it is the tester, and I am enjoying learning how to do things...mostly (the too thick oil coat was very annoying).

As an aside as I will be doing all that other armour, and some more I will finish off building, I will be doing a lot of the above techniques with some variations. If there is any stage that someone wants explaining in a little more detail just post and I'll take pics as I do it.

Edited June 26, 2014 by Marius Perdo

[Tyrannicide]

Suitably war torn. Well done, sir. :tu:

[Marius Perdo]

@Darth Potato: Ta. Still lots of weathering to do. I have found some imperfections in the resin and plastic, and rather than hiding them with weathering I may actually turn them into shell strikes. Then it will be war torn We'll see.

 

Washed the tracks with Devlan Mud/Badab Black mix. No point doing an oil wash when it isn't really needed. As an aside I am mostly using the Forge World MC 2 Red Scorpion LR Proteus guide as a well...guide for the techniques and sequence.

 

Next will be wear and tear using either Chainmail, or possibly the graphite pencil.

 

Then Rub & Buff Silver on the storm bolter.

 

Then dust by lightly airbrushing on Graveyard Earth/Vomit Brown/Airbrush Medium, then Elf Flesh/Graveyard Earth. Then the weathering powders and some caked mud (very light, just to try it).

 

Lightly scorched fuel nozzles and then done. I may actually get this done on Saturday as everything else that is left can be hair dried.

 

PS and once again I forget the verdigris. I will apply a little bit here and there subtly, just like on my test marine.

Edited June 27, 2014 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

An observation: I put the thinned oil on about 22 hours ago. Even with some hair drying yesterday the hull is still tacky in places to touch.

 

To re-iterate, this is a slow process.

 

I will now do edge wearing on plate/hull edges with a graphite pencil. Drawing on the hull seems easier than farting about with Chainmail.

[BattleBrotherJohn]

Tis a Mighty Minotaur force you are building. 

 

Looking forward to seeing it develop.

[The_Chaplain]

An observation: I put the thinned oil on about 22 hours ago. Even with some hair drying yesterday the hull is still tacky in places to touch.

 

To re-iterate, this is a slow process.

 

I will now do edge wearing on plate/hull edges with a graphite pencil. Drawing on the hull seems easier than farting about with Chainmail.

The pencil idea sounds good in theory, although I don't know how it would pan out in practice.  Only time, and pictures, will tell.

[Marius Perdo]

@BattleBrotherJohn: Thanks mate

@The_Chaplain: Gave it a go, as well as doing the storm bolter. I may pencil some more tomorrow in natural daylight.

It seems to work, interesting results. Need to see it in daylight really.

[Marius Perdo]

Bit of powders and mud splatter. Purity seal varnish to draw the various things together.

I'll get all my vehicles to this stage, then do a little bit of pigments of various hues one each tank at a time. Then it'll be a few fresh sponge chips and verdigris, and Chainmail highlight on the tracks.

Basically pleased, but I'll weather the others a little bit less heavily. This one has been zooming from fight to fight acting as bait for drop forces to land on.

Edited June 28, 2014 by Marius Perdo

[The_Chaplain]

That rhino is glorious, it will be a real treat if all the vehicles turn out as beautifully as that tank did. Are you having any problems with the graphite from the pencil rubbing off? Did the purity seal lock it in place or did you use pigment fixer?

[Marius Perdo]

I used thinner for washes on the pigments and sealed them, and the graphite, in place with the purity seal.

 

The other vehicles should go better as I was learning on this one.

 

Given they slow stages (oil wash and pigments) I am building the other vehicles now. 2 Rhinos, a predator, and the land raider Redeemer. I have an Achilles built which I was going to use for Sons of Medusa but I'll make it a Minotaur so I can play with it. I will take a look at the Roc, I might as well build that as well.

 

However I may end up with way too much stuff then but we'll see. I am sick of thinners and turps fumes so building for a bit I guess

 

I guess I should think about the contemptors and their pods as well.

[Marius Perdo]

Did some work on the other vehicles that need building.

[Freakiq]

I love how the Rhino turned out, this whole army looks to become awesome.

 

Thank you for showing how you painted up the Rhino, been struggling with how to properly weather bronze vehicles.

Will definitely steal some of your ideas and methods. ;)

[Marius Perdo]

Well, I got it to this stage, but still felt it was too dirt and dark:

Then I accidentally used gloss varnish, which totally changed the pigment hue. Purity seal over the top didn't help, so I've ruined it. Oh well...strip time.

However as a test it worked, I have learnt new techniques. I am surprisingly un-pissed off.

I was finding some facings bland due to a lack of markings so when I redo it I'll jazz it up a bit. I'll just add it to the pile I am building to get to the base bronze. I have also seen someone using Klear as the seal prior to oil washing so I'll give that a go next time. Less drastic than gloss varnish.

Edited June 30, 2014 by Marius Perdo

[The_Chaplain]

Glad to hear you're intending to make lemonade out of the lemons this situation has left you with; but if you don't mind my asking, how are you planning to strip the paint off quickly? I've yet to come across a solution that doesn't take at least a few days.

[Marius Perdo]

@The_Chaplian: Superdrug Acetone free nail polish remover, takes acrylics off plastic in about 10 minutes

[andrewr2x2]

loving everything I see

[Marius Perdo]

Doesn't time fly when you are working an awful lot?

 

Well, I did an 8 month contract doing the highly improbable but it was a success in the end. That ended 19/12 but perplexingly on the 18/12 I got asked to do a 6 month contract from the following Monday for another team, then probably another 6 months. So about a year doing 9 to 5.

 

The thing is this work is predictable, and I can walk there in 10 minutes, so this will leave a lot of free time.

 

Having worked far too hard I got bugger all done of anything, from gaming stuff to gym (apart from a bit of WoW). So I have sworn that I'll go to the gym 3 to 5 times a week, limit WoW to Dungeons and Pandas Thursdays, but this left at least a few spare evenings a week, and probably an afternoon a weekend.

 

Now, as I sort out the dusty mess that is my office/study, It has occurred to me I would actually like to finish this modelling project off as I was really enjoying it until the gloss varnish incident. So, once everything is tidied up, and I know where everything is, this'll get a reboot.

 

Not sure what I'll do first but I guess I should redo the rhino, to basically fix the mistake.

[The_Chaplain]

Wow, it has been a while, huh?  Great to see you back Marius!

 

What remains to be done, all told? 

[Marius Perdo]

@The _Chaplain: Everything. I have done literally nothing hobby wise for over 6 months. I still haven't finished stripping the rhino I messed up. I think I will start with that. Still tidying the man-cave though whilst I download various GW books and errata etc. Uninformed decisions are always bad ones.

 

As an aside doing all that data analysis had an unexpected benefit. My eyesight is far better now than it was when I started working again so it'll be interesting to see how that plays out with modelling.