Jump to content

++ AUGUSTUS b'RAASS ++ pre-heresy BRASS SCORPION p.247


Recommended Posts

Fantastic work on the Bloodletters! I'm not sure that the blue look for the blades fits with the Khorne aesthetic, but it is really nicely done nonetheless. I wish I had that kind of airbrush skill :tu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bloodletters done! And these are also the first miniatures I painted for myself in over 7 months!
 

n7JLgsY.jpg

 

I now have 40 of those buggers painted up :biggrin.:
nmPDkkb.jpg

 

Thanks for looking! I have a building session planned for tobight, with my local hobby buddy Ruben. Excited to finally, finally start the Death Guard!

 

Replies:

 

@ Pearson73: Cheers, buddy! They were awesome to paint, for sure!

 

@ Chazzmos: Hey, that's a great comment and thatnk for looking at the thread! I'm happy to hear you found it inspiring. You're actually the first person to comment on the links in the OP - so I'm glad that effort wasn't wasted lol :wink: let me answer your questions:

- Yes, sometimes I shade after the basecoat - it means just spraying the paint upwards into the nooks and crannies of the miniature, like the armpits or in their crotch. (Now that I think about it, I literally sprayed brown pain in miniatures crotches...). Another example of 'after-base-shading' is when I spray Rhinox Hide along the edges on the red basecoat of my Khornate armour.

-Yes, I always keep heads seperate, even when they're helmeted. Heads usually have quite intricate detail, like eye(slit)s, and they deserve all the room and attention theycan get. It's far easier to paint in sub-assemblies. I almost never completely build my miniatures before I start painting. It also makes it easier to prime the bare heads white, while the rest of the miniature is primed black.

- I admit that was worded a little misleadingly. What I meant there is for vehicle and straight edges only - when you spray one edge on a sharp angle, none of the pain gets on the other edge - meaning you get a sharp lined divide between dark and light colours - which could be defined as an edge highlight. But 'edge highlighting' is a technique where there's paint on only the edge, not on one side of the edge. I actually don't use edge highlighting too much on my Night Lords or Imperial Fists - just on the black edges. Only when I started my World Eaters - my third army - did I really start using edge highlighting in the traditional sense of the word...

 

@ Brother Heinrich: Aww! Thanks, buddy!

 

@ Vairocanum: Woop woop! Keep yourself posted!

 

@ Kizzdougs: Eh, blue has been the spot colour for my World Eaters for over 18 years, so I can't really change it now... :wink:

Edited by Augustus b'Raass
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bloodletters are looking good, bud. I agree with kizz, commendable airbrushing skills indeed! Much better than I could ever do, the most experience I had was with that garbage GW flamer-looking airbrush and it died after two attempts. Airbrushes are too much maintenance for me, but some of you have really mastered the craft. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@ DuskRaider: That GW 'airbrush' wasn't an airbrush. I think people have had better results just putting paint in their mouths and going 'PFFFFFFRRRFFFFRFRFFFFFFSSSSfffssstt' over their miniatures than by using that thing. 

Airbrush maintenance isn't more work than normal brush maintenance - and it saves a ton of time. Those ten bloodletter swords took me twenty minutes to do - including the masking tape. 

Edited by Augustus b'Raass
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know, it was plastic trash shaped like a Flamer :biggrin.:

 

I'm not great with brush maintenance either, if I'll be honest... I mostly use cheap brushes from Walmart and just toss them when they've taken too much abuse. I'm a monster...

Get out.

 

tenor.gif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"@ DuskRaider: That GW 'airbrush' wasn't an airbrush. I think people have had better results just putting paint in their mouths and going 'PFFFFFFRRRFFFFRFRFFFFFFSSSSfffssstt' over their miniatures than by using that thing."

 

I find stuffing a leaf of fresh basil between my teeth and gums helps get the taste of paint out of my mouth.

 

The Night Lords are stunning and those Khorney guys are top notch!  I'll second the thing on airbrush maintenance. While I don't use mine on Warhammer, I've had the same airbrush for 20 years (iwata eclipse) and its all about taking care of it, though standard brushes usually won't last THAT long. :) But, if you have a good set up, running paint through it really doesn't take long at all. Respirators are always a good idea( or you get wierd colored boogers).... especially if you can do a decent Bane or Darth Vader impression while you paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@ Chazzmos: Hey, that's a great comment and thatnk for looking at the thread! I'm happy to hear you found it inspiring. You're actually the first person to comment on the links in the OP - so I'm glad that effort wasn't wasted lol :wink: let me answer your questions:

 

- Yes, sometimes I shade after the basecoat - it means just spraying the paint upwards into the nooks and crannies of the miniature, like the armpits or in their crotch. (Now that I think about it, I literally sprayed brown pain in miniatures crotches...). Another example of 'after-base-shading' is when I spray Rhinox Hide along the edges on the red basecoat of my Khornate armour.

-Yes, I always keep heads seperate, even when they're helmeted. Heads usually have quite intricate detail, like eye(slit)s, and they deserve all the room and attention theycan get. It's far easier to paint in sub-assemblies. I almost never completely build my miniatures before I start painting. It also makes it easier to prime the bare heads white, while the rest of the miniature is primed black.

- I admit that was worded a little misleadingly. What I meant there is for vehicle and straight edges only - when you spray one edge on a sharp angle, none of the pain gets on the other edge - meaning you get a sharp lined divide between dark and light colours - which could be defined as an edge highlight. But 'edge highlighting' is a technique where there's paint on only the edge, not on one side of the edge. I actually don't use edge highlighting too much on my Night Lords or Imperial Fists - just on the black edges. Only when I started my World Eaters - my third army - did I really start using edge highlighting in the traditional sense of the word...

 

 

This makes so much sense!  I was thinking you may have some strange techniques that were passed to you in a dream that no one else uses, but it's 'just' clever airbrushing.  I love the idea of a post-base zenithal shade for some models.

 

One clarifying question and two further question for you:

  • Is the Rhinox Hide along the edge of your Khorne armour just a base shade for the gold?
  • You described your 'straight edge dividing highlight'.  Can you give me an example of when you would paint a vehicle straight edge with a different tone on each whole panel?   I tend to paint each panel more individually with an overall shade covering the bottom 1/3 of the vehicle.  As I type this, I'm going to guess it could be underneath wings of flyers?
  • In your airbrush cleaning bucket, how much of it do you submerge? Just the paint pot?

And again, thank you for the links on the first page! Really helpful :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright! One night of building and I have my very first five Death Guard build and primed in sub-assemblies! There's even two conversions in there. I changed the standard champion by replacing his power fist arm with a bolter arm from one of the bolter guys, and giving that other guy a plasmagun instead. Pretty simple, really, but I have to start anew. It's been eight months since my last power armoured dude!
 

yoTQli7.jpg

 

Woooooo! I also did twenty poxwalkers - ten standard and then ten more, all converted by changing their arms, heads, and sometimes adding some chaos marauders bits. 

 

Xbe4jDrg.jpg

 

Hope you like!!

Cheers!

Replies:

 

@ rednekkboss: that might help indeed! I like blue boogers, so I never use a respirator, though... (always fun to read your ramblings :biggrin.:)

 

@ hushrong: #MeToo!

 

@ guardian31: thanks, buddy!

 

@ chazzmoss: Answers:

-No, the GW Rhinox Hide is actually the perfect shade colour for FW Word Bearers Red, which is what It's for in this particualr recipe.
- Here's an example. See the differences in the hue of the bare resin of the lower armour panel on the right (your left) chest armour panel of this Leviathan?

Hidden Content
fWRdsrH.jpg

Yeah? That's what I try to copy with paint, and is what I mean by edge highlighting (or in this case, edge shading, as I shaded the miniature with a brown/yellow mixture after I based it in GW Averland):

Hidden Content
Kq0Brwg.jpg

I use this technique everywhere on armoured vehicles. Check out the side of this Storm Talon:

Hidden Content
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d185/mkruijff/Imperial%20Fists/temporary_zpsgy87k4yj.jpg
, or the armoured panels of Cilice Macelarius

- Just the paint pot, yes. I rinse it underwater with an old brush, and then open the valve so that I spray a little water through underwater. :smile.:

Edited by Augustus b'Raass
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Such a clear and exemplified answer about your airbrush highlighting, I can so easily see it!  Makes perfect sense, I think it would require some practice for me though.

 

Thanks for the cleaning bucket answer too!

 

I'm working on some Death Guard at the moment, so can't wait to see yours.  I've got my second squad of 15 Poxwalkers on the go at the moment, they are proving a little more painstaking than I'd like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers, guys.

A point about poxwalker conversions. There's only 15 or 16 different poxwalkers miniatures, while no-one wants to have duplicates, and you need about 60 of them to create a decent horde. Yet because of their nurglite nature, they're fairly forgiving miniatures to convert or sculpt. I thought it'd be nice to show my poxwalker conversions. 

Most of these are arm or headswaps, with some greenstuff or PVA mixed with microbeads to mask sharp edges and transitions. The PVA-microbead mix results in a surface that looks pockmarked and which transitions smoothly into the rest of the miniature. There's also some chaos marauder arms in there. It took me about an hour to convert these. 

 

Here's shots of all original poxwalkers next to their converted counterparts:

 

BJrlWSp.jpg

 

ILkqslN.jpg

 

h2DhrqO.jpg

 

OFADyJZ.jpg

 

BZMwQUB.jpg

 

 

fDgmwDR.jpg

 

LsGcnZJ.jpg

 

eXWTJd9.jpg

 

NMJLlgf.jpg

 

 

Cheers! I hope you like them and are inspired to convert your own.

 

Replies:

 

@ Bjorn FIrewalker: Ha! Those are both posted way back in my thread. If you missed those before, you should definitely go through this thread again!

 

@ hushrong: hahaha indeed!

 

@ Chazzmos: Check out DuskRaiders thread for an excellent rotting flesh tutorial. :) 

 

@ DuskRaider: SO IT BEGINS INDEED :) Thanks for your inspirational support!

 

@ BubblesMcGub: lolz :D

 

@ Eldrick Shadowblade: I'm thinking of the recipe myself, but it will involve both airbrushing and drybrushing. :tu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are those macro.micro beads for extra awesome looking boils and sores? Whatever it is it's awesome looking!

 

Also, the poxwalker on the right in your first pic, I am naming him Tyrone Biggums.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.