229 replies to this topic

[AfroCampbell]

What colours are people using to paint them?

 

 

[Vincec79]

There is a forge world scheme put out that uses a mix Tamiya clear blue and green paints over a metallic base.

ALPHA LEGION
1. AIRBRUSH WITH THINNED LEAD BELCHER/ IRON BREAKER (50/50 MIX)
2. AIRBRUSH FROM TOP OF MODEL WITH THINNED RUNFANG STEEL
3. MIX A LITTLE TAMIYA CLEAR GREEN WITH TAMIYA CLEAR BLUE (25/75 MIX) AND AIRBRUSH OVER THE MODEL IN 2 COATS
4. AIRBRUSH ARMOUR PANELS WITH TAMIYA CLEAR BLUE. BLENDING FROM MIDDLE OF FIGURE DOWN, SO THE STRONGEST BLUE COLOUR IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PANNELS
5. AIRBRUSH FROM THE MIDDLE UPWARDS WITH TAMIYA CLEAR GREEN
6. USING AN AIRBRUSH BLEND A HIGHLIGHT ON THE HIGHEST PANNELS (HEAD, SHOULDER PADS, TOP OF BACKPACK) WITH RUNEFANG STEEL WITH A TINY AMOUNT OF LOTHERN BLUE, EXTREMELY THINNED DOWN.
7. APPLY THINNED COAT OF TAMIYA CLEAR BLUE OVER THE HIGHLIGHT AND BLEND INTO THE SURROUNDING AREA.
8. USING A BLUE GLAZE, DRAG DOWN THE WHOLE MODEL ALLOWING IT TO SETTLE IN THE DEEPEST AREAS.
9. SILVER – BASECOAT WITH LEADBELCHER
10. WASH WITH NULN OIL
11. HIGHLIGHT WITH LEADBELCHER IN STRIKING MOTIONS TO CREATED CHIPPED AND WEATHER APPEARANCE
12. HIGHLIGHT WITH IRONBREAKER

Sorry for the caps, copied and pasted and in my phone so can't change the case

There's a thread on Heresy30k were someone has used this scheme and posted a few pics up

http://heresy30k.inv...f-my-days-work/

I had been told about a Vallejo sick blue/ dark blue being used, so I ordered up that with some metal medium to try and achieve a sort of metallic blue as shown but the Vallejo dark blue it more of a purple as once I'd mixed in the metallic medium it ended up like some sort of emperor children colour

Edited by Vincec79, 21 April 2014 - 10:03 AM.

[Emperor's Furor]

Why does everything have to be airbrushed nowadays.

[DuskRaider]

I did mine the following way:

Prime Chaos Black

Heavy drybrush Runefang Silver

Light wash over entire model with Vallejo Clear Blue

Heavier build up of Clear Blue wash at the bottom of all armor pieces

Medium wash of Vallejo Clear Green on 75% of armor pieces, top down

Build up both colors until a nice deep color is achieved

Armor trim is Leadbelcer wash with Nuln Oil and highlighted with Runefang Silver

 

If you do it right, it makes the armor look iridescent.

[Excessus]

I did mine with:

 

Prime Chaos Black

Drybrush Sotek Green

Wash Drakenhof Nightshade

Paint Leadbelcher on details...

[AfroCampbell]

seems like a lot of very impractical paint schemes for legion sized armies if you dont have an airbrush... do u have any pics excessus?

[Excessus]

Sure, here are six guys.

 

[grand_master85]

Excessus; those guys look amazing and I may just have to steal that scheme! I've been wanting to do AL for sometime now and havn't had the right inspiration. Tried a few schemes out that went badly but this looks perfect!

[Grizwald23]

Why does everything have to be airbrushed nowadays.

Because it makes things so much easier and it produces much better results then you can achieve with a brush unless you want to spend hours and hours getting the same smooth transitions and blending that an airbrush lets you do in minutes. Serious airbrushes make painting armies so much faster and easier and it looks better then doing it by brush.

[betrayer41]

I'm tweaking and trying different variations of this.... I want it to look like the above pics



And here are some other ones

[Marshal Traben]

I like the first one.

Edited by Brother Khairon, 22 April 2014 - 11:12 PM.

[betrayer41]

thats my favorite as well, any suggestions to get him looking more like the above pics

[Aristeo]

Maybe a little green wash?

 

Looks like he's holding a lightsaber.

[leoparden]

I did a test miniature in the Forgeworld scheme and I was pleasantly surprised by the results even if it didn't come out exactly as their miniatures, I find that the metallic tones gives them enough added difference not to simply melt into the other blue legions

Picture for reference:

[Lonewolf86]

Excessus your models look great and that looks like a nice simple and time efficient method when compared with some others I've read. Thanks, I will have to try it!

 

Also leoparden your test figure looks superb; I prefer it to forgeworld's outcome though I think I lack the skill, patience and time to follow that method.

[Hyaenidae]

Wow. That model is pretty awesome, Leoparden. I'd suggest spending a little money on some FW stuff, and crack out a squad of those dudes. 

[leoparden]

Excessus your models look great and that looks like a nice simple and time efficient method when compared with some others I've read. Thanks, I will have to try it!
 
Also leoparden your test figure looks superb; I prefer it to forgeworld's outcome though I think I lack the skill, patience and time to follow that method.

It was the first time for me working with clear paints on top of metallics, the method was pretty easy to follow - I found it sounds more complicated then it actually was to apply if that makes sense. I'm also particularly fond of what that blue glaze layer does to the studs on the shoulder pad - that tiny blue halo effect is awesome.
 
 

Wow. That model is pretty awesome, Leoparden. I'd suggest spending a little money on some FW stuff, and crack out a squad of those dudes. 

Hm, a little money on FW you say? I might have overspent already in that case...

I already have a Mk III/IV Night Lords army in the works. I'm planning on some Alphas but I want to use Mk VI for them because it's viable fluffwise and for variational purposes (also because I like the challenge of making them as similar as possible but still trying to get some individuality into the miniatures, which will be a radically different approach compared to my Night Lords).

Anyway, I'm rambling, there will be a thread started on BoC soon to cover the subject, I just need to flesh out some fluff in my head and get some miniatures done first so I have a good place to stand on for future reference. Work sucks me dry of hobby time at the moment but it pays for the resin so...

[Lonewolf86]

How long did it take to do that model? Or I suppose a better question is using the same method how long would you estimate a 10 man squad to take?

[leoparden]

Doing the first miniature was about a Saturdays worth of hobby time, but test models are always a bit iffy timewise. What I like about it is that I hardly have to do any highlighting (which I'm doing till death on my Night Lords).

The limiting factor here is the brushwork on the bolters and the pigments on the base I'd say. The airbrushing would only takes minutes longer if you added more miniatures to the assembly line. You have to give Tamiya colours a tad longer between layers to dry completely (compared to GW acrylics).

If I was to venture a guess on a 10-man squad at this level (no markings, no freehands and extra detailed fuss), maybe around 4-5 hours for the power armour and then at least the same amount of time for the brushwork + pigments.

[AfroCampbell]

Betrayer41, what was the gold u used on that shoulderpad on the second dude? looks good man

[Yogi]

Leoparden, yours really is ace. 

[Brother Heinrich]

Excessus your models look great and that looks like a nice simple and time efficient method when compared with some others I've read. Thanks, I will have to try it!
 
Also leoparden your test figure looks superb; I prefer it to forgeworld's outcome though I think I lack the skill, patience and time to follow that method.

It was the first time for me working with clear paints on top of metallics, the method was pretty easy to follow - I found it sounds more complicated then it actually was to apply if that makes sense. I'm also particularly fond of what that blue glaze layer does to the studs on the shoulder pad - that tiny blue halo effect is awesome.
 
 

>Wow. That model is pretty awesome, Leoparden. I'd suggest spending a little money on some FW stuff, and crack out a squad of those dudes. 

Hm, a little money on FW you say? I might have overspent already in that case...

I already have a Mk III/IV Night Lords army in the works. I'm planning on some Alphas but I want to use Mk VI for them because it's viable fluffwise and for variational purposes (also because I like the challenge of making them as similar as possible but still trying to get some individuality into the miniatures, which will be a radically different approach compared to my Night Lords).

Anyway, I'm rambling, there will be a thread started on BoC soon to cover the subject, I just need to flesh out some fluff in my head and get some miniatures done first so I have a good place to stand on for future reference. Work sucks me dry of hobby time at the moment but it pays for the resin so...

 

Can't wait for that thread to start, I've been watching your work over on Warseer for a while and I have to say you have the best Night Lords I've ever seen, everyone here who hasn't seen your work is in for a treat.

[betrayer41]

@Leoparden  How do you get your metallics on so smooth...i just tired clear over metallics for the first time and mine look splotchy and like they're not covering the whole surface.

 

@afro  It's actually a brass. im at work right now but when i get home i will post it

[leoparden]

@Leoparden  How do you get your metallics on so smooth...i just tired clear over metallics for the first time and mine look splotchy and like they're not covering the whole surface.

It's all in the airbrush I would assume because I'm not doing anything special as far as I know. Thinning the paints thoroughly helps as does doing multiple super thin layers instead of one thicker. This appears to be specially true to Tamiya Clear Paints. I'd hate to admit it, but part of the awesomeness in my miniatures is from how I take my pictures also (ie my ramshackle photobooth).

[betrayer41]

@Leoparden  How do you get your metallics on so smooth...i just tired clear over metallics for the first time and mine look splotchy and like they're not covering the whole surface.

It's all in the airbrush I would assume because I'm not doing anything special as far as I know. Thinning the paints thoroughly helps as does doing multiple super thin layers instead of one thicker. This appears to be specially true to Tamiya Clear Paints. I'd hate to admit it, but part of the awesomeness in my miniatures is from how I take my pictures also (ie my ramshackle photobooth).

ive only every airbrushed with white for my WE.....about what ratio did you use for tamiya? it's my first time using anything like that