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15 Shades of Grey, A new start.... with Primaris,


Dantay VI

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Thats great FenrisWolf... And ideas are starting to flow, I have been chatting with Vykryl and we maybe have some nice runes to use.

 

I saw this and thought WOW!! wish I could put something like this on my Raptor...

http://simotron.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/tumblr_m8oaek6bto1qgggino1_1280.jpg

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Those jet engines! They are gorgeous. If it wasn't for the centre tail fin, I'd totally try and make my Fire Raptor look like the F-15.

 

I am going to leave the tail-fin a few days to see what percolates through the old noggin. I am ending to agree with Vykryl, that any design work on it might detract from the wings and also look too garish.

 

Vyk's a stand-up guy and pretty sensible too, so I might take his advice. Go simple, some rune markers. A bit like the picture you posted up Fen!

 

Didnt get too much done last night. Got most of the repaint on the ball turrets done as they were geting chipped and worn with handling. I have brushed on a coating of matte varnish over it. I have never tried it before.. Windsor and Newton acrylic matte varnish, seems okay, strong smell though.

 

Woke up and found one of the urrets out and the guns removed. It's fine as the guns are magnetised. I have decided to magnetise the turrets in aswell as the wee mounting pegs drive me mad esp if you miss them and most of the turret falls in the body. I tried to use some 0.5mm brass rod but it jams against the turret making it hard to rotate.

 

Fingers crossed magnets do the trick.

 

And I made a start on the pilot... He looks odd with a blue left pad, but we'll see how it goes.... I am having fun wiith this, I almost want to buy another Raptor just to try out othe new ideas....

Edited by dantay_xv
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Yup, Space Wolves can use the Fire Raptor

 

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Downloads/Product/PDF/F/fire-raptor.pdf

 

And it is a heavy support choice :smile.:  So flying Long Fangs for everyone!!  I need to confirm if it is in IA2 second edition as well, then it has official rules, not experimental which would make it tourney legal..

 

I now want atleast another Raptor I want to do it all black and spec-ops style... Dmn you FenrisWolf for sticking ideas in my head!!!!

And a Caestus and atleast one Storm Eagle...... Oh and a small armada of Storm Grrrrs!!

Edited by dantay_xv
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Forgeworld release campaign and rule books for the models they make. Often they go under the title of

 

Imperial Armour, so you get Imperial Armour 1 & 2 which dealt with vehicles, then Imperial Armour, The Taros Campaign, IA4: The Anphelion Project and so on

 

IA, is just short-hand for Imperial Armour.

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And now they're on to 2nd edition to try and update to the current rules, although I think 2nd ed only brings Forge World into line with 6th edition base rules...

 

I like the idea of identification runes on the vertical fin, maybe one color band at the top, not as bright as your knot work, maybe a dark gold. Half was wide as you make the runes high.

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Well not too much to update upon

 

Magnetising the turret was a nightmare of exploding superglue like proportions, but it works, kinda. I also put some colour coding on the guns so I know which goes where.

 

I also snapped the tail-fin in the ensuing Superglue debacle and glued it back together. I actually really like it without the centre fin, so we will see....

 

I also tried that fancy metal effect, like the Grey Knight weapons but more muted and less glowy. Not sure if it comes out in the pictures, plus I think I need to edge highlight in Runefang Steel.

 

Got the ball-turrets highlighted up. I tried blending to see how it would look. Its a lot more muted than edge highlighting and eats time, but overall I like it as it is more "realistic" and the pilot is more or less done, barring a wee highlight on the face.

 

How was your weekend??

 

P1010122

P1010123

P1010124

P1010125

P1010127

 
C&C most welcome :)
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Dantay, my friend, yo are far, far, far, far too hard on yourself! The work you've done is still awesome!

 

As for my weekend, it is still going (Sunday morning), I finally did a tiny bit of painting last night. I'm trying to find a good base grey for my armor.  Old adeptus mecanicum grey isn't dark enough.  So I looked through Vallejo's line.  German grey might be good but I'm afraid it may be too dark, and London grey is too light. I'd like to find one color I don't have to mix, so it can be consistent across all my models.  I never knew grey could be so complicated!  Some are too green, some are too blue, etc.

 

And today I have to work like @$#% on an online learning project,  Blech!

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For some reason I imagined I imaged the ball turret gunner putting his head out the window and have is tongue wagging out of his mouth like a dog. Stupid Canis Helix! But seriously I had no desire to buy a raptor now have a desire to built a whole army around one. Your work is amazing.

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Hey FenrisWolf, I use the newer standard mechanicum grey on my raptor with a nuln oil wash thats my base colour

 

P1010035

 

This chappy is Standard mechanicum grey with nuln oil wash, then drybrushed with standard mech grey. Highlights are SMG mixed with dawnstone and drybrushed, then adding a lighter grey again to the mix for a final very light drybrush. I did fingd that as I didnt use varnish the paint eventually rubbed off.

 

I used the same colours on the pilot and on the turret but blended instead.

 

Have you looked into the Army Painter range at all, they do coloured primer sprays.

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/295375-vykryls-great-company-wip/

 

Vykryl has a unique way o get grey, by using silver then washes on top to get a dark grey, siilar to creamywynch

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278141-vlka-fenryka-the-volsung/

 

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Hi Jochteas, wow thanks...glad I gave you the idea to base an army around the Raptor. And I had the same thoughts too, about having the head hanging out

 

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/df/80/99/df809977cb90f441a6ce19dea37885b5.jpg

 

A bit like this hahaha

 

Actually when I put the glass in on the canopy the pilots head ais a bout 0.5mm too far forward so it will not glue down right. I actually thought to leave the glass off :D

 

And yes 1 heavy wash of nuln oil  over standard mech grey, to get shade, then drybrush mech grey over the top, to get the mid-tone and leave shadow in the recess.

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Thanks for the color ideas guys!  Creamywynch and Vykryl's ideas are good, but I didn't want the metallic look.  Yours is close but I want a little bit darker.  I know stuff darkens up with the black wash, and I have yet to apply that. Ran out of time last night.  I saw Army Painter's line, but I hear so much positive about Vallejo, that I think I want to stick with them and use Citadel's washes.  So I'm almost there.  I'll try a black wash on the color I thought too light and see what it does.

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FenrisWolf,

 

Does this help at all?

 

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

 

The alternative is to get some empty pots and make your own custom paint blend, then store it in the empty pots for future use. Put a sticky label on it with the names of the paints and the mix ratio, so you do not forget, then you are golden :)

Edited by dantay_xv
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That does help.  I unfortunately am too lazy, disorganized, or unskilled to mix my own paint color. :tongue.:  So I was trying to find something pre-done.  I think I didn't shake my bottle of london grey from vallejo enough, it looked much lighter than the swatches I see indicate it should.  

 

I wish paint manufactures would just mix up the whole hex range of colors.  I know what the hex code of what I want is. #40474D or Federal Standard FS36176. Ah well.

Edited by FenrisWolf
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I have never tried to find out if you could get a paint company or paint store to mix you a colour based on the hex code.

 

Btw, what about the old Charadon Granitenwhich is Vallejo's Heavy charcoal? A black wash on top and its almost black! Or is that too dark?

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Agrax Earthshade is ace, as you can wash the whole model in it, and it unifies all the colours, plus it helps give the model a bit of a grimy dark look. Drop a picture in here when you try out the colours and we can critique it for you :D

 

Not too much of an update.

 

Finished the turrets, got the metal in the rim done edge highlighted with runefang steel, gave it nice definition, got all the steelwork more or less painted and redid some paint on the guns up front.

 

Still not finished the pilot, but made a start on the body.

 

I tried blending the greys, rather than my normal quick drybrush and its's come out... Well okay I think. it looks a bit soft and chalky just now. Had to stop as my eyes were losing focus and I was making mistakes. Went from Standard mech grey&black through to dawnstone and now at 50-50 dawnstone and administratum grey. About 8-10 coats.

 

A lot of areas are pretty rough, main,y the shadows, which I will go back and do. I am hoping the final few highlights will give it it's hard edges back.

 

What do you think so far? 

 

Honest criticism please. I want to know if I am going down the right path and if there is anything I can improve.

 

Thanks guys and girls...

 

P1010132

P1010133

P1010134

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I think 8-10 coats may have been one or two too many.  But I think if you just go for highlighting now, it'll look great. Maybe a three layer highlight (three shades of paint, ending at your brightest) to give some definition to the edges.  How thin did you have your paints for the blending?

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Dantay, I have found the ultimate site for figuring out colors.  encycolorpedia.com

You can search by hex code, paint model line (they have tamiya and vallejo, plus a bunch of household lines, automotive colors, and many others I've never heard of), Federal standard number, RAL number.

 

They also give complementary colors, 25% lighter, darker, 25% more or less saturated, grades to white (all in hex code)

 

For the paint lines, they give closest match with error measured by delta E (I have no idea of the formulation, but lower is closer).

 

Lots of good data, which is awesome for someone of my bent (I love numerical data)!

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Hey FenrisWolf. I think you are right, problem i I started so now I have to finish :tongue.:

Actually behind the front section is a nice flat surface, so I ca try a simpler blending on the rear sections so its hopefully not so noticeable. I was thinking maybe a nuln oil wash to darken it down again and come in with the edge highlights?

 

I started with  Standard mech grey with 2 washes of nuln oli, then layered on Standard mech greyleaving the recesses the darker shade, then hit the model with more nuln oil again standard mech grey again slightly further up, the nuln oil, then standard mech grey slightly higher up.

 

Always keeping the mech grey diluted, 3-4 drops mech grey to 2-3 drops water. Next was 4 drops mech grey to 1 drop dawnstone and so on until its a 4-4 mix, then add 1 drop of admin grey, so 4-4-1 and so on. I think I goy to 4-4-3 and surrendered. Every highlightI added a drop of water, plus maybe 1 or 2 as I went when the mix didn't flow well.

 

Remember the 3 or 4 brushes from the tutorial. Thats all I have to paint the whole of this RAptor, so it is slow going.

 

I'll check the painting link when I get to the main pc (google chrome) the work laptop (IE8 or older) will not let me open it for some weird reason. Sounds good thoughm did iy help you find your ideal grey?

Edited by dantay_xv
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Yeah, the site helped me a lot to find it.  I'm pretty sure now my London Grey isn't mixed well enough or I got a bad bottle, which I doubt.  I was suspicious since the color I could see through the bottom of the bottle wasn't uniform.

 

I saw somewhere that some of the guys doing lots of blending end up with their paint the consistency of skim milk.  Does that help you?

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