Gree Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 So I ordered a can of Daemonic Yellow in order to paint some Marines. However the big problem right now is that I can't remove the lid on the spray can. The top is simply not coming off and I'm not sure what to do. It has a tab and some perforations, but I'm not sure what to do with those. Can anyone offer advice on the matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mactire Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Sometimes the lids can be tough to get off. Just break or crack around the tab with a butter knife or screwdriver and twist and bend till it comes off, you wont damage the spray nozzle but your lid might be a bit wonky, happened me with a uniform grey can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gree Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Used a knife. Just got the lid off and the models painted. Thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Or a screw driver with a slight twist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redlead Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 My advice would be to not use that product at all, in my experience (4 cans in) its pants!, I would only use it now for flat undetailed bits of build, ie Dread shin plates and the like, even then be careful, shake the life out of the can and dont use it when the temp's hot, On the oither hand their Daemonic dropper bottles class, you need to water it down (thin it) but its good and covers well. Just test it first man, dont wreck minis like I have, good luck . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
netminder69 Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 I've only ever used their Black Matte base spray and never had issues with it. Then again, I spray inside where it's climate controlled. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJB2K3 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 My advice would be to not use that product at all, in my experience (4 cans in) its pants!, I would only use it now for flat undetailed bits of build, ie Dread shin plates and the like, even then be careful, shake the life out of the can and dont use it when the temp's hot, On the oither hand their Daemonic dropper bottles class, you need to water it down (thin it) but its good and covers well. Just test it first man, dont wreck minis like I have, good luck . Over a dozen cans used and only had one fail! (left it for 6 months and its fine. Bess advice I can give is to gently run a blunt hobby blade across the perforation to split them. run the cans under hot water to warm them. shake them while heating and keep going until the whole can stays warm (shaken cans will often go cold when you shake them) Don't use in damp air, Don't use in dry air, Don't use in hot air, Don't use in cold air, Scrub the model and dry it. Sometimes (more so with metal) warm the model to room just below air temp before spraying. Keep 8 inches (200mm) away from the model when spraying, Start spraying and finish spraying away from models When finished, turn the can upside down and give a quick spray to clean nozzle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redlead Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Maybe I'm unlucky or don't live in a Goldilocks climate, I can only speak from experience when I tell you that products hit and miss, other spray primers I use such as GW's and Halfords grey cover well without the issues I experianced with AP's D Yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight of the Raven Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 The only issues I ever had with Army Painter primers, other that Element Games can't ship them out of the United Kingdom, is that they sometimes leave some paint dust all over the models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaedes Nex Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 I've given up on those dumb screwdriver rings because they only separate half the time. Sometimes you can twist the screwdriver until you're doing 360's with it and the dumb perforated plastic still won't tear. I just rip the whole damn thing off the can and then use my hands to tear the ring off and throw it away. Problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durus Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Just had to join the others here in saying that the army painter sprays in my experience always have been pretty good. Used their Black and Grey primers and their Matt coat. Never had a problem with them and they are good value for money too, compared to some other 'popular' brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Newton Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 The back and white primers from army painter I never had a problem with. I have also used the blues, red, and greens with no problems but the demonic yellowi have run into problems with. If you are too close it builds up very quickly and before you realize it. If you are too far away or the end of a can and trying to get just the last couple models done, it gets chalky. The only way to fix both of theses problems is to strip the model. I have done very well with using the demonic yellow by priming black going over with white but not coating fully, so the there is still black in all the recesses but it's shaded. Then using a light coat of demonic yellow on the front and then the back of the models. It will look very thin but if you spray more then they have to go right into the simple green. After that dries then do both sides and let dry. To get a decent looking coat I do this 3 times then use the demonic yellow in the air brush to fill in anything that got missed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helias_Tancred Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I'm new to the miniature wargaming side of WH40K and I was wondering about the Army Painter method? I'm a decent painter from my days of painting minis for AD&D ... but I'm a bit intimidated by the time and supply requirement for doing a healthy-sized army. So ... I was looking at the AP method of basecoat, flat paint, dip in shade and then highlight a little and then VIOLA done! Is this viable for tabletop quality? Does it really cut down on time? Are their products quality? I like doing some of my minis in strong detail such as my elites and HQs ... but for my troops guys, I just want them table top quality and done ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight of the Raven Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I used to use Quickshade, but it eventually became more of a goo than a liquid and that became too difficult to use. And that's not counting the time an arm remained in the pot after I submerged my terminator dark apostle... That said, if you manage to master this method, it should be good. Ask Army Painter for liquifying tips if necessary, unlike me. Just don't store the done models in foam before a long time unless you want that foam to smell like quickshade forever. Also, I don't know how removable a quickshaded model's paint is. You may have trouble stripping or reselling them if the varnish is too strong. EDIT: photos! Model done with washes: Model done with Quickshade: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
netminder69 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 I use Quickshade. If it gets too thick it can be thinned with mineral spirits. I actually like to thin it just a smidge more than it's base configuration. Dip it, shake off the excess, and then use a paper towel to dab and wipe away any excess pooling or on flat surfaces. It turns out well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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