35 replies to this topic

[WarriorFish]

Why have one tank when you can have two - or more? The current Guard vehicles are good kits and lend themselves to magnetising well for the most part, so in collaboration with the talented Elmo9141 and Kilofix I have embarked on a grand crusade to cover the topic in the entirety for both novice and experienced magnet user alike. Macharius would be proud

Index Imperialis

• Why Magnetise
• An Introduction to Magnets; Sizes and Suppliers
• Surface Attachment
• Countersunk Attachment
• Tabs
• Trusses
• Embedding and Reinforcing with Green Stuff

Vehicle Magnetisation Tutorials

1. Chimera - Elmo
2. Leman Russ Battle Tank - Elmo
3. Hellhound/Devil Dog/Bane Wolf - Elmo
4. Sentinel - Elmo
5. Wyvern/Hydra - Elmo
6. Baneblade/Shadowsword/Stormlord/etc - Elmo
7. Manticore/Deathstrike - scatmandoo
8. Pintle mounted Stubber/Stormbolter - nismogrendel
9. Leman Russ Demolisher/Punisher/Executioner - Elmo
10. Taurox Prime - MoGuy

Individual tutorials for different Guard vehicles will be added by Elmo and Kilo when they have them. If you have any comments or suggestions - for example a good magnet provider - please PM me

Edited by WarriorFish, 25 November 2016 - 07:10 PM.
Index update

[WarriorFish]

Why Magnetise
Today's modern plastic kits come packed with many alternative weapons and vehicle types. Take for example the Games Workshop Baneblade kit:

This plastic kit contains 295 components (no, that isn’t a typo) to make an Imperial Guard Baneblade. Alternatively, you can also make a Stormsword, Banehammer, Banesword, Hellhammer, Doom Hammer, Shadowsword or Stormlord super-heavy tank using this kit.

Many other kits are also multi-purpose such as the Wyvern/Hydra, Leman Russ Battle Tank/Eradicator/Exterminator/Vanquisher and even the humble Chimera has a variety of different weapons.

With all these options it can be hard to decide which variant you want to make. After a few games you may find that you would have preferred to have a different weapons fit or vehicle but now it is all glued together you would have no option but to buy a new kit.

This is where magnets come in to play. With a little clever planning and following the guidelines and examples which follow you will be able to make a multi-role model which maximises the investment you initially made in purchasing the kit.

The basic principles in magnetisation can be split into a few simple steps:

• What do you want your model to do. Yes the model may have multiple options but you may only want to switch between a couple of them or you just want to be able to add or remove a dozer blade when it suits you.
• Where to place the magnets. Once you have decided which options you want to swap between you need to think how best to achieve this using the techniques that follow in this tutorial. Do you want the magnets to be hidden or surface mounted, do you require tabs or trusses. All this requires careful planning before the model is glued together. Also try to keep the same polarity with your various kits to get maximum use out of interchangeable parts such as the dozer blade.
• Which magnets to use. This is covered in this tutorial but generally the stronger the magnet the better and the magnet needs to be the correct size to achieve its purpose.
• Have a supply of magnets to hand. If you are going to go down the magnetisation route it makes a lot of sense to bulk buy them. This usually means that you can get them at a lower cost and save on multiple postage charges. Also it should mean that you always have the right size magnet on hand when starting a new project.
• Think, dry fit, think again then glue... It is very hard once the magnets are glued into place and the model assembled and painted to go back and reposition an incorrectly located or reverse polarity magnet. Take your time and it should all work out.

Here are a couple of examples of what can be achieved using magnets.

Project 1
Leman Russ Battle Tank/Eradicator/Exterminator/Vanquisher with optional dozer blade and removable sponsons.



The basic techniques used where trusses/surface mounted for the sponsons and recessed/surface mounted magnets for the dozer blade. Due to the snug fit, the secondary weapons did not require magnets and thanks to some careful trimming the main weapon also did not require magnetisation. In all 4 6mmx2mm and 4 3mm x 1.5mm magnets where used.


Project 2
Landraider Crusader/Redeemer/Ares
Not Imperial Guard but a good example of what can be achieved. The sponsons/doors can be swapped from front to rear and are magnetised to allow either Hurricane Bolters, Heavy Flamers or Flamestorm Cannons. The Siege Shield is also magnetised along with the assault ramp which can be swapped for the Demolisher cannon.


The basic techniques used where trusses, surface and recess mounted magnets for the sponsons, weapons and doors. 18 x 2mmx1mm, 4 x 3mmx1.5mm and 4 x 6mmx2mm magnets where used.

In later posts we will be showing the way that we have magnetised various Guard kits. These are meant as a guide only. It is quite possible that we have over-engineered (or just plain got carried away with our magnet addiction) the models. Do not feel that these are the be all and end all. You may see an easier way for what you want to achieve or you may not want to go quite as far as we have. Some models are simpler than others ranging from a hull weapon swap on a Basilisk to a multi-version Baneblade but, as you can see from the two examples above, the only thing that can limit you is your own imagination and skill.

This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Elmo9141

[WarriorFish]

An Introduction to Magnets; Sizes and Suppliers

Neodymium Magnets (Rare Earth Magnets)
Neodymium magnets, invented in the 1980s, are the strongest and most affordable type of rare-earth magnet. They are made of an alloy of neodymium, iron and boron (Nd2Fe14B), sometimes abbreviated as NIB. They have the highest magnetic field strength and have a higher coercivity (which makes them magnetically stable). Beginning in the 1990s, NIB magnets have become steadily less expensive, and the low cost has inspired new uses such as in models.

Grades
Neodymium magnets are graded according to their maximum energy product, which relates to the magnetic flux output per unit volume. Higher values indicate stronger magnets and range from N35 up to N52. Letters following the grade indicate maximum operating temperatures (often the Curie temperature), which range from M (up to 100 degrees Celsius) to EH (200 degrees Celsius).

Grades of Neodymium Magnets

• N35-N52
• 33M-48M
• 30H-45H
• 30SH-42SH
• 30UH-35UH
• 28EH-35EH

It is recommended that when you source your magnets, owing to the extremely small size required for most modelling uses, that you try to purchase N52 grade whenever available. N40 magnets are also commonly described as suitable for modelling but they can be weak for all but the lightest parts.

Hazards
Magnets allowed to get too near each other can strike each other with enough force to chip and shatter the brittle material, and the flying chips can cause injuries. There have even been cases where young children who have swallowed several magnets have had a fold of the digestive tract pinched between the magnets, causing injury and in one case intestinal perforations, sepsis and death.

Magnet Sources
A good source of magnet suppliers can usually be found on regional eBay sites, but we've compiled a list of additional providers that may be useful:

Asia:

Tokyu Hands department store

Africa:

Australasia:

Europe:

Spider Magnets

Element Games

Guy's Magnets

North America:

Magcraft

South America:

Common Magnets and Size Conversions
Cylindrical magnets, these are the ones I have now settled on as being standard for my models. Sizes are diameter x height in millimetres:
2 x 1mm
3 x 1.5mm
6 x 2mm

Metric to Imperial
1mm = 3/64"
1.5mm = 1/16"
2mm = 5/64"
3mm = 1/8"
6mm = 15/64"

Tools
Pin Vise
Electric hobby drill such as a Dremmel (ensure that it has variable speed)
Greenstuff or similar
Side clippers
Files of various grades
Craft knife

This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Elmo9141

Edited by WarriorFish, 26 November 2014 - 06:41 PM.
Magnet list update

[WarriorFish]

Surface Attachment
This involves simply gluing magnets to the surfaces of the two parts that are to be attached. Its an appropriate method to utilise when there is a gap between the two parts, in which the magnets will fit, or if the two parts do not need to be flush fitting.

Steps:

1. Dry fit the parts without magnets or glue
In this example - a Lord of Skulls and the muzzle of its Cannon. There is a gap between the parts in which the magnets will fit.



2. Measure and mark the position where each magnet should be affixed to each part; in order to line up with each other when the parts are attached
I prefer to use a simple protractor to measure and a gold permanent marker. In this example, the magnets should be placed dead centre so its fairly straight forward but in other cases, measuring will be important to ensure proper placement of the magnets.



3. Pick out a set of magnets, then with the proper polarity alignment, mark the sides / facing that should be affixed to the parts that are to be attached (easiest to do when the magnets are 'stuck' together)
I prefer to use the same gold permanent marker to mark the sides that will be glued to their respective parts.



4. Glue the magnets to their respective parts; with the proper polarity alignment
Sometimes I use the cap of the super glue tube to push or reposition the magnet while gluing it; because that cap doesn't stick to the glue.



5. Wait until the glue is dry, recheck fit and polarity alignment, and done!
Wait until the glue is dry before rechecking fit to avoid accidentally gluing the parts permanently together.



Here's another example of surface attachment - a Heavy Stubber to a Sentinel body.

This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Kilofix

[WarriorFish]

Countersunk Attachment
This involves drilling an indentation / 'hole' in which to place / countersink the magnets so that they are flush against the parts that are to be attached. Its an appropriate method to utilise when there is no gap between the two parts, in which the magnets will fit, or if the two parts need to be flush fitting.

Steps:

1. Dry fit the parts without magnets or glue
In this example, a Dozer Blade is being attached to the underside of a Chimera.



2. Measure and mark the position where each magnet should be affixed to each part; in order to line up with each other when the parts are attached
In this example, only 2 pairs of magnets will be used - though ideally, 4 should be used for stability.



3. Drill the indentations / 'holes' in which to place / countersink the magnets
The indentations / 'holes' only need to be as deep as the magnets are thick but in many instances there isn't any harm in drlling a hole straight through (depending on what you're attaching). I like to use a small drill bit to first drill a pilot / 'guide' hole before using the larger bit to drill the appropriate size hole for the magnet. Make sure you match the right size drill bit to the size of the magnet (e.g. 1/8 drill bit for 1/8 x 1/16 magnets).





4. Pick out a set of magnets, then with the proper polarity alignment, mark the sides / facing that should be affixed to the parts that are to be attached



5. Glue the magnets to their respective parts; with the proper polarity alignment
Usually, its ok and easier to 'push' the magnets into their respective indentations / 'holes' before adding a layer of super glue (instead of the other way around).



6. Wait until the glue is dry, recheck fit and polarity alignment, and done!

This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Kilofix

[WarriorFish]

Using a Tab
This involves adding a 'tab' in which to place / countersink a magnet when the two parts that are to be attached don't share a mutual surface.

Steps:

1. Dry fit the parts without magnets or glue
In this example, Storm Raven ramp is to be attached to the Storm Raven frame. Apart from their edges, the two parts don't really share a mutual surface with which to attach magnets; so a tab will be used.



2. Using a spare sprue, cut out a small section to be used as a 'tab'. Drill an indentation / 'hole' in the tab in which to place / countersink a magnet



3. Glue the tab to the larger encompassing part so that it protrudes into the 'space' where the smaller part will go
In this case, the tab is glued to the Storm Raven frame so that it protrudes into the 'space' where the ramp will go.



4. Measure and mark the position where the corresponding magnet should be affixed to the smaller part.; in order to line up with each other when the parts are attached



5. Drill an indentation / 'hole' in which to place / countersink a magnet in the smaller part



6. Pick out a set of magnets, then with the proper polarity alignment, mark the sides / facing that should be affixed to the parts that are to be attached



7. Glue the magnets to their respective parts; with the proper polarity alignment



8. Wait until the glue is dry, recheck fit and polarity alignment, and done!
Below are some examples of a Valkyrie ramp, and hull doors with tabs (not the cleanest work but you get the idea). Also example of a countersunk wing pylon.

This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Kilofix

[WarriorFish]

Using a Truss
While a 'tab' is affixed only at one end, a 'truss' would be affixed at both ends. Usually when the affixed magnet is larger or needs to be load bearing.

Steps:

1. Dry fit the parts without magnets or glue
In this example, a 'truss' with magnet has already been affixed to the Knight's arm. Another 'truss' with magnet will then be affixed to the Thermal Cannon. The 'truss' will be glued across the middle gap of that Thermal Cannon.



2. Measure the appropriate width that the 'truss' needs to be then using a spare sprue, cut a section to be used as the 'truss'



Usually I cut the 'truss' slightly longer than it needs to be then bevel / angle the edges slightly. The longer end remains longer than it needs to be (i.e. longer than the gap) and the shorter end is exactly the size of the gap. This may take a couple of attempts to do but it gets easier with practice.



3. Fit, then glue the 'truss' across the gap
Longer bevelled edge should be outward, shorter bevelled edge should be inward. This will allow you to push the 'truss' into the gap and have it held there by friction. Again, practice makes perfect. Remember, you can always apply glue after it is in place (instead of the other way around).



4. Pick out a set of magnets, then with the proper polarity alignment, mark the sides / facing that should be affixed to the parts that are to be attached



5. Glue the magnets to their respective parts; with the proper polarity alignment



6. Wait until the glue is dry, recheck fit and polarity alignment, and done!



Below are other examples of using 'trusses'.



'Truss' for the main body of a Knight. The 'truss' is wedged then glued across the interior main body opening. Another magnet is countersunk into the lower body.



Sometimes its easier to affix magnets before assembling the 'tab' or 'truss' but otherwise, here's a way to get a magnet into a tricky spot. Get a spare sprue (because it isn't magnetic and the magnet won't stick to it) apply a little green stuff to the tip of it. Stick the magnet to the little green stuff on the sprue, then apply lots more green stuff to the side of the magnet that needs to be affixed to the part. Remember to get the polarity / facing of the magnet right. Place a dab of super glue on the part that the magnet needs to be affixed to. Then using the 'magnet on a stick' simply 'jab' the part that it needs to be affixed to. Again, practice makes perfect.



Ok - not the prettiest work above but one gets the idea.

After the magnet is in place you can add more green stuff or more glue to reinforce it. Remember if you're adding green stuff with a sculpting tool - make sure its plastic so that the magnet doesn't get stuck to it instead.

This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Kilofix

[WarriorFish]

Reserved for final method tutorial - embedding and green stuff

[elmo]

Chimera

 

This tutorial will show you how to magnetise the Chimera including interchangeable hull and turret weapon and dozer blade.

 

You will need the following magnets:

2 x 1mm – qty 10

3 x 1.5mm – qty 3

6 x 2mm – qty 2

 

 

 

Method

 

Before you assemble the Chimera complete the following steps

 

Dozer Blade

You can use the method shown in section (tbc) or use the following method which varies only slightly by hiding the magnets inside the hull.

 

Measure and drill out the recesses in the dozer blade frame but only down to a depth of 2mm from the upper surface. Fit 2 of the 3 x 1.5mm magnets. In the photo the magnets where not drilled out equally but you can do it neater.

 

 

Use these as a guide to carefully cut off 2 small sections from the rails from the underside of the hull plate.

 

 

Hold the frame against the base plate and use the attraction of the magnets to locate 2 of  the 6 x 2mm magnets and then surface mount them.

 

 

Hull weapons (Multi melta not included)

Glue the halves of the hull weapons together and when set, cut a small piece of sprue just big enough to fit into the gap at the rear of the Heavy Flamer. Once you are happy with the fit (it can be raised above the flat surface by approx 2mm but this is not a problem as it will be sanded flush later) glue them in and allow to dry overnight.

 

Once dry, sand flat then use a 1mm drill bit to make a guide hole in the centre rear of the hull weapons. Use a 2mm drill bit to increase the size of the hole then, keeping the polarity the same for each one, use superglue to fix 1 of the 2 x 1mm magnets into these holes.

 

 

Cut a length of sprue approximately 2cm long and glue together as shown in the photo. 

 

 

When dry, trim and glue into the inside of the hull, covering the gap where the hull weapon will fit.

 

Allow to dry overnight then using a 1mm drill bit, drill a guide hole in the centre of the sprue from the outside in. Use a 3mm drill bit to increase the size of the hole then using superglue, fix in one of the 3 x 2mm magnets making sure that the polarity is correct with one of the prebuilt hull weapons.

 

 

 

 

Turret

 

Drill a 1mm guide hole in the square recess of the piece shown below. Using a 2mm drill bit, enlarge the hole and superglue in 1 of the 2 x 1.5mm magnets.

 

 

Assemble the Heavy bolter and mantlet. Drill a guide hole and then a 2mm hole and glue in a 2 x 1.5mm magnet checking the polarity with the one already fitted in the part above. The magnet should sit slightly raised as shown.

 

 

Do not glue the Multi Laser or the Heavy flamer to the supplied mantlet. Drill a guide hole then a 2mm hole in the square locating peg at the rear of both weapons. Glue flush a 2 x 1.5mm magnet in each weapon with the same polarity as the Heavy bolter.

 

 

Now by simply swapping the mantlet you can have either the Multi laser / Heavy flamer or swap with the Heavy bolter assembly.

 

 

 

Hunter killer missile

 

Glue the rail for the missile in the desired place on the hull and allow to dry. I have fitted mine on the left hand side below the turret.

 

Cut off the two raised locating lugs then in the same position, carefully drill a 1mm guide hole followed by a 2mm hole and glue in 2 of the 2 x 1mm magnets with the same polarity.

 

 

In the missile body, drill a guide hole followed by a 2mm hole in the corresponding recesses. Then glue in 2 of the 2 x 1mm magnets ensuring that you check the polarity with the ones in the missile rail.

 

 

 

You can now assemble the vehicle as per the instructions, apply paint as required.

 

 

 

 This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Elmo9141 

 

Edited by elmo, 30 May 2015 - 02:27 PM.

[elmo]

Leman Russ

 

This tutorial will show you how to magnetise the Leman Russ Battletank including interchangeable hull and turret weapons, removable sponsons and dozer blade.

 

You will need the following magnets:

3 x 1.5mm – qty 4

6 x 2mm – qty 4

 

 

 

Method

 

Before you assemble the Leman Russ complete the following steps

 

Sponsons

Assemble the sponsons as shown in the instruction booklet, step 10, but do not glue to the hull or glue in the weapon.

 

Cut 2 lengths of sprue approximately 3cm long and glue together as shown in the photo. Repeat with 2 more pieces of sprue.

 

 

When fully dry, shorten the sprues to fit inside the sponson, and then cut a recess at both ends approximately 2mm deep by 3mm wide. These will be for the raised detail on the hull to slot into. Once complete, glue into the sponson and this will become the truss for the magnet.

 

 

 

Ensure the glue is fully dry and using a 1mm drill bore a guide hole the centre of the sprue. Then use a 3mm drill to make the final hole for the magnet. Keeping the same polarity, use superglue to fix in a 3mm x 1.5mm magnet in each sponson.

 

 

Match the sponsons up to the outer hull and using the attraction of the magnets to guide the placement, surface glue the 6 x 2mm magnet on the inner surface of the outer hull.

 

 

 

The hull weapons simply slot into the sponson/hull location holes as shown in the in assembly instructions, step 9 and 10.

 

 

 

Turret

 

No magnets are required. Do not glue the turret base on.

 

Trim the inner turret slot diagonally as shown

 

 

Glue the mantlet onto the front of the turret.

 

 

Some small trimming is also required to the turret weapons as shown below. Ensure that you only trim a small amount at a time and offer the weapon up to the turret to ensure a snug fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The turret top will now fit snugly to the turret base and by simply applying light pressure they can be separated. The fit on both my trial models is firm enough to lift the weight of the complete Leman Russ by the turret.

 

 

 

 

Dozer Blade

 

You can use the method shown in section (tbc) or use the following method which varies only slightly by hiding the magnets inside the hull.

 

Measure and drill out the recesses in the dozer blade frame but only down to a depth of 2mm from the upper surface. Fit 2 of the 3 x 1.5mm magnets. In the photo the magnets where not drilled out equally but you can do it neater.

 

 

Use these as a guide to carefully cut off 2 small sections from the rails from the underside of the hull plate.

 

 

 

Hold the frame against the base plate and use the attraction of the magnets to locate the 6 x 2mm magnets and then surface mount them.

 

 

 

 

 

You can now continue to assemble the Leman Russ as shown in the instruction booklet

 

After applying your chosen colour scheme you will end up with something like the following:

 

 

 

 

 This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Elmo9141 

 

 

Edited by elmo, 30 May 2015 - 02:26 PM.

[elmo]

Hellhound/Devil Dog/Bane Wolf

 

This tutorial will show you how to magnetise the Hellhound/Devil Dog/Bane Wolf including interchangeable hull and turret weapon and dozer blade.

 

You will need the following magnets:

2 x 1mm – qty 7

3 x 1.5mm – qty 3

6 x 2mm – qty 2

 

 

 

Method

 

Before you assemble the Hellhound / Devil Dog / Bane Wolf complete the following steps

 

 

 

Dozer Blade (not included in the box but can be purchases separately)

 

You can use the method shown in section (tbc) or use the following method which varies only slightly by hiding the magnets inside the hull.

 

Measure and drill out the recesses in the dozer blade frame but only down to a depth of 2mm from the upper surface. Fit 2 of the 3 x 1.5mm magnets. In the photo the magnets where not drilled out equally but you can do it neater.

 

 

Use these as a guide to carefully cut off 2 small sections from the rails from the underside of the hull plate.

 

 

Hold the frame against the base plate and use the attraction of the magnets to locate 2 of the 6 x 2mm magnets and then surface mount them.

 

 

 

Hull weapons

 

Glue the halves of the hull weapons together and when set, cut a small piece of sprue just big enough to fit into the gap at the rear of the Multi-melta and Heavy Flamer. Once you are happy with the fit (it can be raised above the flat surface by approx 2mm but this is not a problem as it will be sanded flush later) glue them in and allow to dry overnight.

 

Once dry, sand flat then use a 1mm drill bit to make a guide hole in the centre rear of the hull weapons. Use a 2mm drill bit to increase the size of the hole then, keeping the polarity the same for each one, use superglue to fix 1 of the 2 x 1mm magnets into these holes.

 

 

Cut a length of sprue approximately 2cm long and glue together as shown in the photo. 

 

 

When dry, trim and glue into the inside of the hull, covering the gap where the hull weapon will fit.

 

Allow to dry overnight then using a 1mm drill bit, drill a guide hole in the centre of the sprue from the outside in. Use a 3mm drill bit to increase the size of the hole then using superglue, fix in one of the 3 x 2mm magnets making sure that the polarity is correct with one of the pre-built hull weapons.

 

 

 

 

 

Turret

 

The following is optional as yours may be a tight enough fit to not require magnets.

 

Remove one of the larger cylindrical sections from the sprue.

 

 

Using a sharp knife, trim it into a complete cylinder

 

 

Glue this into one of the halves of the turret weapon then glue the two halves together and allow to dry overnight.

 

 

Once dry, you will need to trim the square lugs at the rear of the cannons to the correct length to fit into the square recess in the turret weapon.

 

Use a 1mm drill bit to drill a guide hole in the centre of the square lugs and the recess then use a 2mm drill bit to enlarge it. Glue in 3 of the 2 x 1mm magnets in the cannons ensuring that the polarity is the same and they are flush with the surface. Using one of the cannons as a polarity checker, glue 1 of the 2 x 1mm magnets into the recess in the turret weapon ensuring that it sits fully in the pre-drilled hole.

 

 

 

Now you can assemble the model as per the supplied instructions.

 

 

You will now be able to field either a Hellhound, Bane Wolf or Devil Dog with or without a dozer blade.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Elmo9141 

 

 

 

Edited by elmo, 30 May 2015 - 02:26 PM.

[captain sox]

AMAZING! Thank you!

[Hrolf the Cunning]

This is fantastic guys. Thanks

[Flint&Steel]

Very nice! I was planning to pick up some vehicles, this will definately help in getting the best out of them.

[Nicodemus Doloroso]

Thanks for sharing this, this is fantastic!

[Vash]

I actually might consider magnetising now... I usually go for the "buy another model" approach. 

[WarriorFish]

It's well worth it Vash

[scatmandoo]

Fantastic guide

[hendrik]

can we please make this a sticky mods, since new guard players seem to end up asking about this over and over?

[elmo]

You can find it in the Astra Militarum Resources sticky.

 

Next up will be a Sentinel as this has attracted my attention recently then I will be clearing up a bit before cracking on with the Baneblade.

[elmo]

Sentinel

 

This tutorial will show you how to magnetise the Sentinel including interchangeable weapons

and between the Armoured and Scout versions.

 

You will need the following magnets:

2 x 1mm – qty 21

3 x 1.5mm – qty 1

 

Extra equipment:

0.75mm HSS drill bit

0.7 - 0.75mm iron/steel wire (guitar wire)

 

 

 

 

Method

 

Before you assemble the Sentinel complete the following steps

 

Weapons hull mount

 

In the square recess at the upper left side of the hull plate, drill a 2mm hole and fit 1 of the 2 x 1mm magnets. In the round recess, drill out a 3mm hole and fit 1 of the 3 x 1.5mm magnets ensuring both magnets have the same polarity. The 3mm magnet is required to prevent weapon droop as the 2mm magnet is not strong enough.

 

 

 

Remove the cone from the under side of the hull plate and drill a 2mm hole then fit one 2 x 1mm magnet ensuring the polarity is the same as the earlier two magnets.

 

 

Remove any pins from the weapons then drill 2mm holes where the pins where (you may have to glue in a small part of sprue in the multi laser as this did not have a pin on mine) and also in the square pegs of the weapon accessories. Ensure that you check the polarity with the magnets fitted in the hull. The plasma cannon was glued to the pipework to aid stability before drilling.

 

 

 

You will have to plug the hole in the chain saw with a piece of sprue before you can fit the magnet as the moulded hole is too large.

 

 

The weapons will now be able to be swapped out as required.

 

 

 

 

Scout - Armoured roof (Optional)

 

On the upper hull remove the roll bar uprights from either side and glue them onto the roll bar roof.

drill two 2mm holes in the corner of the rear wall and fit two 2 x 1mm magnets.

 

 

Very carefully, with a small drill bit (I used a 0.75mm bit), drill the rear two legs of the roll cage and glue in a section of wire in each hole making sure that it is iron/steel based for the magnets to be able to work on (I used guitar wire).

 

 

Assemble your choice of armoured roof (I have a mixture of the 2) and drill two 2mm holes in the rear wall and fit two 2 x 1mm magnets ensuring that you check the polarity with the magnets fitted in the hull.

 

 

 

Hunter killer missile (I did not to fit this to mine as the model was becoming cluttered)

 

Glue the rail for the missile in the desired place on the hull and allow to dry.

Cut off the two raised locating lugs then in the same position, carefully drill a 1mm guide hole followed by a 2mm hole and glue in two 2 x 1mm magnets with the same polarity.

 

 

In the missile body, drill a guide hole followed by a 2mm hole in the corresponding recesses.

Then glue in two 2 x 1mm magnets ensuring that you check the polarity with the ones in the missile rail.

 

 

 

You can now assemble the remainder of the Sentinel as per the instructions but DO NOT glue in the pilot as his height makes it difficult to fit the armoured roof.

 

 

 

 

What you now have is the option to use any weapon and choose between an Armoured or Scout Sentinel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This article of war was dictated from the holy texts of the Uplifting Primer by Elmo9141 

 

Edited by elmo, 30 May 2015 - 02:25 PM.

[Kierdale]

Fantastic!
With so many options in the IG kits (the sentinel in particular!) this is invaluable.

[Jolemai]

Guess my search-fu isn't the best right now, but do you have a link to Kilofix's Knight build?

[Kilofix]

Guess my search-fu isn't the best right now, but do you have a link to Kilofix's Knight build?

 

Eh sorry, didn't notice this before. The only Knight magnetizing pics I had are in the OT of this thread, mid-way down, under the "Truss" section.

 

I'm otherwise building a Lancer currently and will get some pics of pinning and further magnetizing, but its still at least a week away.

[scatmandoo]

I will do a manticore/deathstrike tutorial/how not to do it when j get some magnets in.

Have done some research on it and it is harder than it should be!