nortran11 Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 OK....this may sound like a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway cause I be stumped. I see all these pictures of Space Marines and I see these shoulder pads with perfect chapter icons on them....no bubbles, no creases, nothing....just perfectly laid down decals. HOW? I cannot get my decals to lay flat at the top of the pad.....I've been building scale models for 20 plus years and have plenty of experience with decals and setting solutions, etc.....and no matter what I try I cannot get it to look right. Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricPaladin Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I'll post from home with my methods - I've gotten pretty good at this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nortran11 Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks EP.....I am dying over here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffTibbetts Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I know a big part of it is making radial cuts to give it room to overlap and get that curve. I don't do that, but I do use about 6 million coats of Microsol. That's the best method I've found but it's time consuming. If you're a scale modeler I'm sure you've got some experience with it, but most scale jobs don't involve such a curved surface. Let's see if EP has something really cool for us. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricPaladin Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Ok, I had to go and test my method, because it's been a while and I want to make sure that I'm giving good advice, but it works ok, and here it is: Acquire two products, both from a company called Microscale Industries - Micro Set and Micro Sol. The first is basically waterslide transfer glue, in a bottle. The other is able to somehow soften the transfer. Cover the target area in a gloss finish, even if you are planning to do a matte finish for the model. GW's Hardcoat works ok. Wait for the gloss to dry. While the transfer is soaking in water, apply a little Micro Set to the area. Put the transfer on the area (in the usual way), get it into position, and then wait a little while for the Micro Set to get tacky enough that it will stop shifting around as you mess with it. Brush on Micro Sol. Brush the transfer flat. Did it work? If yes, you're done! Let it dry. If not, wait until it dries, then brush on more Micro Sol and brush the transfer flat. Repeat until the transfer falls apart or you're done. It works pretty well. This is always tricky, and you might shred some transfers and have to start again, but that's not a big deal. Also, Tibbs, I started using the Knights of Blood transfers you made! They look great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nortran11 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hmmmmm....that is the same steps I am doing. Just to clarify, you are using the decals that come in the kits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricPaladin Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Brief, slightly random aside, maybe don't use the Micro Sol on a brush you're really fond of. I was using a funky old wash brush that had a lot of paint dried deep among the bristles that have repeatedly laughed at my efforts to clean the damn thing. Low and behold, I started to see annoying little black specks on the transfer. I thought maybe the transfer was coming apart, but actually it was the paint crumbling away. Now the brush is cleaner than it's been in a year, and I'm slightly terrified of Micro Sol. Hmmmmm....that is the same steps I am doing. Just to clarify, you are using the decals that come in the kits? No, I'm using custom ones that I printed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Tyler Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Linky ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nortran11 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Ah, that's the difference then.....The kit decals seem to be a little too large, they hit the bottom lip of the shoulder pad and extend all the way up to the curve and that curve is nigh impossible for the decal to conform to without wrinkling. I have some clear decal paper from printing custom Gundam decals, I'll give it a go Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricPaladin Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 The other thing you should be careful about with Micro Sol - this happened to me for the first time last night, so it hadn't occurred to me to warn of it - is that it can actually cause some decals to stretch out, which makes them irreversibly wrinkly (because they don't stretch perfectly evenly). Don't overdo it! Also, I still don't know what this is, but it'll take off sealant and start to strip paint. Be careful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nortran11 Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 I just made my first batch, I am using just the fist...not the white circle around it and I also made some black tactical squad "arrow" markings. I didn't have any white paper. They seem to work OK, but I think I might have sprayed on a little too much of the bonder. EP, how many coats of bonder do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricPaladin Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 I just made my first batch, I am using just the fist...not the white circle around it and I also made some black tactical squad "arrow" markings. I didn't have any white paper. They seem to work OK, but I think I might have sprayed on a little too much of the bonder. EP, how many coats of bonder do you use? Just one liberal coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nortran11 Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 OK, I'll give it a second go tomorrow when it warms up. Thank God Hobby Lobby sells this paper! with that 40% coupon making mistakes doesn't hurt so bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricPaladin Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Check it out! http://40.media.tumblr.com/0eb46255ff83744aa24a6e2fa417d717/tumblr_nh00e4QW7d1rgb5qno1_1280.jpg It's on a flat surface, so way easier, but I think it looks nice. Tibbs - I used the clear one, then colored in the white. On the shoulder pad version I've done (not pictured) I did it two layered, the clear one to get the black, then the shield on top of it (and touched up with white a little around the edges). I'll post that one soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffTibbetts Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Sweet! Can I make a suggestion for next time? If possible, paint the white FIRST and then touch up afterwards, maybe. It might be hard to get it in the right shape but err on the side of caution. I think it'd be easier to touch up the red than painting the white on top, and you'll get a more uniform black line around it. Unless you're trying to erase the black line, but it doesn't seem like it. Anyway, that looks pretty solid to me! I don't think I gave you any big ones, though. Does it look pixelated when you blow it up? I can make a bigger one really easily. I just copied the sheet you provided and I don't think there were vehicle sized ones, were there? EDIT: I'm eager to see the shoulder pad version! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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