LutherMax Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Looking really good! I'm gonna follow your guide for magnetising mine... I take it you airbrush the main colours (the metal skeleton, the blue and red) and hand paint the bronze trim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jønke Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 This will be really usefull for when i get started on my knights. How satisfied are yiu with the house terryn upgrades from fw? I'm still undicided if im gonna got for them or make up my own house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Looking really good! I'm gonna follow your guide for magnetising mine... I take it you airbrush the main colours (the metal skeleton, the blue and red) and hand paint the bronze trim? I saw your magnetizing guide... the only question I have is how magnetizing the torso to the legs went? It looks like you glued the carapace on... I didn't so I could get supports on for the magnet inside the torso. More sharing options... LutherMax Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 They look awesome – really clean and smooth painting! Looking really good! I'm gonna follow your guide for magnetising mine... I take it you airbrush the main colours (the metal skeleton, the blue and red) and hand paint the bronze trim? I saw your magnetizing guide... the only question I have is how magnetizing the torso to the legs went? It looks like you glued the carapace on... I didn't so I could get supports on for the magnet inside the torso. I'm still waiting on the right size magnets so haven't finished anything yet. For the torso I sawed the top off the dome that sits on top of the legs and sanded it down flat so I can glue a magnet on top. I glued a piece of plasticard to the inside of the body over the little hole and will fill the underside recess with green stuff and embed the corresponding magnet here. The carapace isn't glued as I'll be painting it separately. http://www.themightybrush.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_2064.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Jønke Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Good job on the knights. Looks great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 @LutherMax Any chance you'll make an article on you'r blog with your knight assembly? Painting aswell maybe? Yes I think I will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 4 weeks later... Lucumon Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 4th (and probably final vow) complete! A few thoughts on these three models: 1. The new chaplain model is indeed awesome... and it makes the other two look short. It's like GW listened to the true-scale movement from their fanbase. Weird. 2. Astorath is a horrible model. He's tiny... are we sure he's not an eldar with over-sized shoulder pads? Painting plastic is so much easier. The model has poor weight distribution. 3. I tried something with the airbrush: I primed the models in black, sprayed a dark blue from the left then a dark grey from the top. The intent was to help highlight the black armor without just slopping grey/white edge highlights. This might be a fantastic recipe for Nightlords... but helps call attention to details. Now to get a game in with these dudes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Jolemai Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Is that the fabled "Lucumon black" on display? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Lucumon Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Kind of: 1. From a color theory perspective, yes in that the intent of the blues and greys is to highlight the details much like a comic book artist will use dark blues and greys to represent blacks in order to highlight the detail. 2. From paint application, no. The years-ago method used a wet pallet and multiple shades of grey/grey-blue with extensive edge highlighting. This one is applied via airbrush... which is much faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 I like the blue/grey-black - goes really nice with the red! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Charlo Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 It certainly looks very batman, with the blues in there. Like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Lucumon Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 So, this past weekend I ran a Tripartite Lance against a Necron Decurion... and he conceded halfway through turn 3. Imperial list: - Tripartite Lance with 2x Ironstorm Launchers, 1xTwin Icarus Autoocannon - Tiggy Conclave (to buff the squad of imperial knights. Seriously. A SQUAD of them) - Flesh Tearer Strike Force with a Sang Priest, Chaplain, 5 man Tactical squad in a Rhino (to ferry the conclave around & make them harder to die) Necron List (I may monkey some of this up...) - Decurion with a Harvest, Destroyer Cult and a Doomsday cannon. (to be fair, the destroyer cult and cannon were something he's been trying out... not really the best for necrons. - A CAD with another Lord and more warriors His normal tactic is to stick all his lords into a 10 man squad of Lychguard and use some special wargear to deep strike right in front of my lines, pop the solar staff so all my shooting at him is snap firing, then cackle as his deathstar says, "Come at me bro". Then the Harvest splashes in, then next turn warriors are everywhere. Generally, he plays very aggresively... except, this time... ... the knights blew him off the table. They shot stuff with -1 ignores cover and re-rolls to blast weapons thanks to the formation rule. Then, when they charged and stomped stuff, they deleted entire squads due to sweeping advance and D goodness. The librarians pretty much stayed mounted the entire game casting witchfires as I did not get any powers I wanted (namely, invisibility and re-rolling saves). I did get the move terrain one and the the ignore line of sight and ignore cover... but given the size of the knights and the formation bonus, that power was not needed. At the end of turn 3, I had lost 3 marines and 5 hull points off one knight and 1 off another knight... whereas he had 3 destroyers and a doomsday cannon left. Overall, having knights in a squad provides opportunities for plenty of shenanigans: 1. "Oh, you charged one knight with your wraiths and at the end of combat there is only one left? I guess I will stomp in the opposite direction so they remain locked in combat and you cannot shoot at them." Then you kill the last one in the next round of combat and continue to run around "Pacific Rim"-jobbing things. 2. Thanks to CC, the 'slingshot' effect of charging and close combat makes a squad of knights super fast as knights get that extra movement as they charge and pile in. 3. The formation bonuses are pretty nifty: reducing cover saves is awesome. D3 hammer of wrath attacks allows you to instant death things before CC. Anyway, next game I am going to either run an Angel's Fury with a Saint Tylus Defense Force or a normal BA force with Sanguinary Guard, Death Company, and normal BA accouterment as CC seems like a fun way to deal with the Necron threat... until you get the tarpit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Charlo Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 The Tripartite lance is pretty cool! Do they have to stay in coherency? And if so how much? Can damage results go across the squadron like normal or are they all separate still? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I am out of likes for the day, but I will just say... "Pacific Rim"-jobbing things. Hur hur hur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Charlo Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I am out of likes for the day, but I will just say... "Pacific Rim"-jobbing things. Hur hur hur HOW DID I MISS THAT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Lucumon Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Do they have to stay in coherency? And if so how much? Can damage results go across the squadron like normal or are they all separate still? I played it that they had to stay in 4" coherency; but I thought that damage goes against the closest model in the squadron? My next project is 4 Stormtalons for a Saint Tylus Defense Force because: 7 flyers on turn 1, 28 assault cannon shots, 12 skyhammer missiles, 12 Stormstrike missiles, and everything is hard to hit. Also, is very "Air-Cav" with the transports dropping off "dude-bros" and gunships providing covering fire. I wonder if Space Marines have the issue where, if a gunship is hovering above you raining freedom on the enemy, brass falls between your back body armor plate and your neck, thereby searing the outline of brass as it is stuck inside... Here are all the bits, ready for priming and magnetized: Here you can see how I magnetized the front weapon pods and the wings. This is so, if I wanted to run a Stormhawk, I could swap out the wings. I'd sacrifice the alternative positioning of the stormhawk's weapons and cockpit, but, oh well. Underneath you can see how I put another magnet for the underslung assault cannon. On one side, this allows me to swap out for a Stormhawk nose weapon or, more likely, fly past a target, then swing the assault cannon to point to the rear in order to plink rear armor: The aforementioned assault. cannon: And, finally, weaponse, wings, and engines were seperated out for ease of airbrushing: The part of the engine that is inserted into the wing was cut a little so I could airbrush, then slide into the wing afterwards. Anyway, next step: Airbrushing and jiminey christmas why doesnt Vallejo White primer work? Whenever I try to spray a color over it, surface tension or something breaks it all up.... and then I have to put battle damage there.... pics to follow to better explain this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Very industrious little production line you've got there! That's weird about the white primer - I've never had that happen with mine. I would email Vallejo if I were you, it may be that you have an old / defective bottle and they'll send you a new one direct. Even if you bought it recently there's no knowing how long it's been on the shelf in a shop or distribution warehouse. Vallejo will be able to tell from the batch number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Lucumon Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Yeah, this is the 2nd bottle of Vallejo White primer this has happened to... and I am not sure it is a quality issue... perhaps more an impatient airbrusher. I did black, 2 shades of grey, then white before I put Mephiston Red Air over another wet layer. Here is what it looked like: And here it is painted and with a coat of Testors Dullcote: Overall, I am not nearly as excited about painting this one compared to the Stormravens. I only have 3 more to go... then an Air Cav battle report! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 2 weeks later... Lucumon Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 So, I used LutherMax's advice on lighting with my light box to take better pictures... of a finished Stormtalon: And: Mostly, the difference was turning off all the lights except the lights that are being used as part of the light box. And, 3 more of these to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Nice! The softened lighting looks really good. P.S. That is very weird about the primer, I've never seen anything like it! Was the model cleaned thoroughly before applying it? I.e. no grease from the mould under the primer. Also did you let it fully dry between coats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Lucumon Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 So, 2 fair points: 1. I've always put primer directly on GW plastic as it doesn't have the issues resin does. For the next model, I will use some for of cleaner.... any suggestions? The first thing that comes to mind is Simple Green and a sonic cleaner. 2. It was still wet... I will (im)patiently wait for it to dry first for the next model to prove that the issue is a user error... as they normally are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 I don't generally find it necessary to clean plastic, but the sprues do still come out of an injection moulding machine which has to be kept greased. The grease shouldn't touch the plastic but it's a possibility. If I do clean them I just use a tooth brush and some Fairy Liquid under warm running water. Definitely let any airbrushed paint dry before applying a second coat! Can lead to all sorts of problems otherwise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 1 month later... Lucumon Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 A couple things have been keeping me away from the hobby: (1) work has been obnoxious (but I resigned yesterday, so that should be sorted out soon) and (2) I'm helping a friend with a Ravenwing Strike Force he got off ebay. Here is a Ravenwing Bike Squad I painted up: Further, here is the list my buddy picked up off ebay... then tried to field against me: Lastly, here is the list I was planning on playing when he pulled out his Ravenwing. It's the Angel's Fury Spearhead and the Saint Tylus Defense force. Lessons learned from this battle: 1. It's a total trick list. If your opponent takes a decent amount of AA (which this one did not this time around), then watch out. 2. Ignores cover against Ravenwing = pure win. Like tabled by turn 3 win. 3. This was very much a rock, paper, scissors, shotgun type of game... 4. I wonder if this could be fun at a local tourney... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Lucumon Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 The great thing about a rainy weekend is the lack of chores... which allowed me to finish this guy: With this one, I used both the GW Air (Mephston Red and Khorne Red) and Wicked Air (Red and Crimson)... GW being more dull/grimdark and Wicked being more fire engine red. The Wicked(brighter) colors sprayed from the front to create 4 levels of colors. Here is the comparison: So far, I am liking the brighter colors from the front.... when you flip them around the colors are darker for that Objective Light Source goodness. Next up: trying this method with 3 bolter marines.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... LutherMax Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Great job on those - very clean and sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... 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LutherMax Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 They look awesome – really clean and smooth painting! Looking really good! I'm gonna follow your guide for magnetising mine... I take it you airbrush the main colours (the metal skeleton, the blue and red) and hand paint the bronze trim? I saw your magnetizing guide... the only question I have is how magnetizing the torso to the legs went? It looks like you glued the carapace on... I didn't so I could get supports on for the magnet inside the torso. I'm still waiting on the right size magnets so haven't finished anything yet. For the torso I sawed the top off the dome that sits on top of the legs and sanded it down flat so I can glue a magnet on top. I glued a piece of plasticard to the inside of the body over the little hole and will fill the underside recess with green stuff and embed the corresponding magnet here. The carapace isn't glued as I'll be painting it separately. http://www.themightybrush.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_2064.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jønke Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Good job on the knights. Looks great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 @LutherMax Any chance you'll make an article on you'r blog with your knight assembly? Painting aswell maybe? Yes I think I will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 4th (and probably final vow) complete! A few thoughts on these three models: 1. The new chaplain model is indeed awesome... and it makes the other two look short. It's like GW listened to the true-scale movement from their fanbase. Weird. 2. Astorath is a horrible model. He's tiny... are we sure he's not an eldar with over-sized shoulder pads? Painting plastic is so much easier. The model has poor weight distribution. 3. I tried something with the airbrush: I primed the models in black, sprayed a dark blue from the left then a dark grey from the top. The intent was to help highlight the black armor without just slopping grey/white edge highlights. This might be a fantastic recipe for Nightlords... but helps call attention to details. Now to get a game in with these dudes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Is that the fabled "Lucumon black" on display? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Kind of: 1. From a color theory perspective, yes in that the intent of the blues and greys is to highlight the details much like a comic book artist will use dark blues and greys to represent blacks in order to highlight the detail. 2. From paint application, no. The years-ago method used a wet pallet and multiple shades of grey/grey-blue with extensive edge highlighting. This one is applied via airbrush... which is much faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 I like the blue/grey-black - goes really nice with the red! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlo Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 It certainly looks very batman, with the blues in there. Like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 So, this past weekend I ran a Tripartite Lance against a Necron Decurion... and he conceded halfway through turn 3. Imperial list: - Tripartite Lance with 2x Ironstorm Launchers, 1xTwin Icarus Autoocannon - Tiggy Conclave (to buff the squad of imperial knights. Seriously. A SQUAD of them) - Flesh Tearer Strike Force with a Sang Priest, Chaplain, 5 man Tactical squad in a Rhino (to ferry the conclave around & make them harder to die) Necron List (I may monkey some of this up...) - Decurion with a Harvest, Destroyer Cult and a Doomsday cannon. (to be fair, the destroyer cult and cannon were something he's been trying out... not really the best for necrons. - A CAD with another Lord and more warriors His normal tactic is to stick all his lords into a 10 man squad of Lychguard and use some special wargear to deep strike right in front of my lines, pop the solar staff so all my shooting at him is snap firing, then cackle as his deathstar says, "Come at me bro". Then the Harvest splashes in, then next turn warriors are everywhere. Generally, he plays very aggresively... except, this time... ... the knights blew him off the table. They shot stuff with -1 ignores cover and re-rolls to blast weapons thanks to the formation rule. Then, when they charged and stomped stuff, they deleted entire squads due to sweeping advance and D goodness. The librarians pretty much stayed mounted the entire game casting witchfires as I did not get any powers I wanted (namely, invisibility and re-rolling saves). I did get the move terrain one and the the ignore line of sight and ignore cover... but given the size of the knights and the formation bonus, that power was not needed. At the end of turn 3, I had lost 3 marines and 5 hull points off one knight and 1 off another knight... whereas he had 3 destroyers and a doomsday cannon left. Overall, having knights in a squad provides opportunities for plenty of shenanigans: 1. "Oh, you charged one knight with your wraiths and at the end of combat there is only one left? I guess I will stomp in the opposite direction so they remain locked in combat and you cannot shoot at them." Then you kill the last one in the next round of combat and continue to run around "Pacific Rim"-jobbing things. 2. Thanks to CC, the 'slingshot' effect of charging and close combat makes a squad of knights super fast as knights get that extra movement as they charge and pile in. 3. The formation bonuses are pretty nifty: reducing cover saves is awesome. D3 hammer of wrath attacks allows you to instant death things before CC. Anyway, next game I am going to either run an Angel's Fury with a Saint Tylus Defense Force or a normal BA force with Sanguinary Guard, Death Company, and normal BA accouterment as CC seems like a fun way to deal with the Necron threat... until you get the tarpit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlo Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 The Tripartite lance is pretty cool! Do they have to stay in coherency? And if so how much? Can damage results go across the squadron like normal or are they all separate still? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I am out of likes for the day, but I will just say... "Pacific Rim"-jobbing things. Hur hur hur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlo Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I am out of likes for the day, but I will just say... "Pacific Rim"-jobbing things. Hur hur hur HOW DID I MISS THAT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Do they have to stay in coherency? And if so how much? Can damage results go across the squadron like normal or are they all separate still? I played it that they had to stay in 4" coherency; but I thought that damage goes against the closest model in the squadron? My next project is 4 Stormtalons for a Saint Tylus Defense Force because: 7 flyers on turn 1, 28 assault cannon shots, 12 skyhammer missiles, 12 Stormstrike missiles, and everything is hard to hit. Also, is very "Air-Cav" with the transports dropping off "dude-bros" and gunships providing covering fire. I wonder if Space Marines have the issue where, if a gunship is hovering above you raining freedom on the enemy, brass falls between your back body armor plate and your neck, thereby searing the outline of brass as it is stuck inside... Here are all the bits, ready for priming and magnetized: Here you can see how I magnetized the front weapon pods and the wings. This is so, if I wanted to run a Stormhawk, I could swap out the wings. I'd sacrifice the alternative positioning of the stormhawk's weapons and cockpit, but, oh well. Underneath you can see how I put another magnet for the underslung assault cannon. On one side, this allows me to swap out for a Stormhawk nose weapon or, more likely, fly past a target, then swing the assault cannon to point to the rear in order to plink rear armor: The aforementioned assault. cannon: And, finally, weaponse, wings, and engines were seperated out for ease of airbrushing: The part of the engine that is inserted into the wing was cut a little so I could airbrush, then slide into the wing afterwards. Anyway, next step: Airbrushing and jiminey christmas why doesnt Vallejo White primer work? Whenever I try to spray a color over it, surface tension or something breaks it all up.... and then I have to put battle damage there.... pics to follow to better explain this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Very industrious little production line you've got there! That's weird about the white primer - I've never had that happen with mine. I would email Vallejo if I were you, it may be that you have an old / defective bottle and they'll send you a new one direct. Even if you bought it recently there's no knowing how long it's been on the shelf in a shop or distribution warehouse. Vallejo will be able to tell from the batch number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Yeah, this is the 2nd bottle of Vallejo White primer this has happened to... and I am not sure it is a quality issue... perhaps more an impatient airbrusher. I did black, 2 shades of grey, then white before I put Mephiston Red Air over another wet layer. Here is what it looked like: And here it is painted and with a coat of Testors Dullcote: Overall, I am not nearly as excited about painting this one compared to the Stormravens. I only have 3 more to go... then an Air Cav battle report! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 So, I used LutherMax's advice on lighting with my light box to take better pictures... of a finished Stormtalon: And: Mostly, the difference was turning off all the lights except the lights that are being used as part of the light box. And, 3 more of these to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Nice! The softened lighting looks really good. P.S. That is very weird about the primer, I've never seen anything like it! Was the model cleaned thoroughly before applying it? I.e. no grease from the mould under the primer. Also did you let it fully dry between coats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 So, 2 fair points: 1. I've always put primer directly on GW plastic as it doesn't have the issues resin does. For the next model, I will use some for of cleaner.... any suggestions? The first thing that comes to mind is Simple Green and a sonic cleaner. 2. It was still wet... I will (im)patiently wait for it to dry first for the next model to prove that the issue is a user error... as they normally are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 I don't generally find it necessary to clean plastic, but the sprues do still come out of an injection moulding machine which has to be kept greased. The grease shouldn't touch the plastic but it's a possibility. If I do clean them I just use a tooth brush and some Fairy Liquid under warm running water. Definitely let any airbrushed paint dry before applying a second coat! Can lead to all sorts of problems otherwise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 A couple things have been keeping me away from the hobby: (1) work has been obnoxious (but I resigned yesterday, so that should be sorted out soon) and (2) I'm helping a friend with a Ravenwing Strike Force he got off ebay. Here is a Ravenwing Bike Squad I painted up: Further, here is the list my buddy picked up off ebay... then tried to field against me: Lastly, here is the list I was planning on playing when he pulled out his Ravenwing. It's the Angel's Fury Spearhead and the Saint Tylus Defense force. Lessons learned from this battle: 1. It's a total trick list. If your opponent takes a decent amount of AA (which this one did not this time around), then watch out. 2. Ignores cover against Ravenwing = pure win. Like tabled by turn 3 win. 3. This was very much a rock, paper, scissors, shotgun type of game... 4. I wonder if this could be fun at a local tourney... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucumon Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 The great thing about a rainy weekend is the lack of chores... which allowed me to finish this guy: With this one, I used both the GW Air (Mephston Red and Khorne Red) and Wicked Air (Red and Crimson)... GW being more dull/grimdark and Wicked being more fire engine red. The Wicked(brighter) colors sprayed from the front to create 4 levels of colors. Here is the comparison: So far, I am liking the brighter colors from the front.... when you flip them around the colors are darker for that Objective Light Source goodness. Next up: trying this method with 3 bolter marines.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LutherMax Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Great job on those - very clean and sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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