Theredknight Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 So now I have finally finished my board and scenery, what is the best product to seal it all up with? Bernard The slayer 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipkin Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 I used Armypainters "Anti-Shine" Varnish. Theredknight and Stoic Raptor 2 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hmm, il have to give that a go instead of gw purity seal! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucien Eilam Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Matt varnish won't do much to protect it. If you need to protect a model from wear and tear, use gloss varnish. If you need to completely remove the shine from everywhere on a model (which you probably will if you've gloss varnished it), matt varnish it. Be aware that this will flatten any metallics too. If you don't need to do either of these things, don't do them. Acrylic paint on plastic or resin miniatures is pretty resilient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 It's not shiny really, it was done with gw colours as per the video on how to, because I liked the look. You say nay to sealing at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucien Eilam Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 It depends what you want to achieve. It's terrain, so you might want to protect the paint from getting scratched when models are moved around on it. The point is, matt varnish won't protect it from scratches. Matt varnish is good for killing shine and fixing weathering powder, that's about it. If you want to protect it from scratches, you'll need to gloss varnish it. If you do gloss varnish, you'll want a final coat of matt varnish to kill the shine. Personally, I'd just fix the paint every now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 I think the main thing is storage, going into the case could scratch the raised surfaces is what I'm thinking. Or I could just use the sheet to stop it doing that to space them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metic Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 dice will chew through the paint on those plastic gw boards in a couple months. You really need to seal it with gloss and then dull coat to remove the shine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I tried a few times to roll dice on them, it's literally impossible, especially if you kit out the table as a city, all those nooks and crannies ended up with a lot of cocked dice. So then I figured out that plastic lids are the best to roll on! Metic 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian_F_H Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 (edited) Oh wow, yeah almost immediately we outlawed rolling on the battlefield at the home table... Between losing a die under a terrain piece, or knocking over a model or cocked dice it was just not happening any more... Box lids or old school high lipped dinner trays work great... Edited August 12, 2015 by Canadian_F_H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Oooh custom dinner tray options :-) Canadian_F_H 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revarien Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) I did testors glosscoat on all 6 tiles (it took a two - three cans), and then army painter matte sealer on them all (I think this only took up half a can, as it's got a lot in it). I don't have a sheen or shine at all to my tiles and they're pretty resilient. I also store them in their bag with a piece of 2x2 cardboard between each piece and it fits fine. Edited August 14, 2015 by revarien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golf33 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) I hope this is ok - I didn't see it suggested anywhere yet and it might help someone else. This stuff is really good for creating a tough protective coat on scenery and miniatures, I've used the aerosol cans on models and found it really toughens them up. Much cheaper than GW rattle cans. http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right-product/wood-care/Interior/DoorsandWindowFrames/Clears/WattylEstapolinteriorPolyuerthane.html?preview=true Edited February 4, 2016 by Golf33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod451 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I've used interior polyurethane before Golf, have you had any problem with it discoloring? the stuff I've gotten in the past has a slight yellow tint.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Well, I still haven't gotten round to it yet. Been furiously working on models and haven't played on the sector for ages. So the quest continues. Are we better off with the method revarian mentioned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MithrilForge Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 As for rolling dice on the table ... i made this dice tower as a terrain piece so no missing dice on the table and everyone see's what was rolled... it has a PVC tube going through the middle with baffles placed strategically inside .... It has been painted since , i should take a pic of the finished thing actually anyways just another idea to stop your terrain being marked by the Dice Gods..! Mithril Isolia 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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