Painting Imperial Fists à la Forge World

[Dosjetka]

Hello all!

I was wondering if anyone knew how Forge World paints their Imperial Fists? I know that they have released their painting secrets for armies such as the Alpha Legion, but I haven't seen anywhere mention Dorn's sons.

I spent quite a bit of time looking at the following picture on the FW website, but can't really figure it out (pun not intended).

Looks like Flash Gitz Yellow, but it could be a yellow from another range for all I know. Besides, the colour used to highlight (could be FGY with White Scar) and what colour they used for shading completely elude me.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

I've seen a few recipes floating around the net, all claiming to be official FW.

 

 

Undercoat Skull White 

Yellow Areas:

 Airbrush 50/50 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow 

 Airbrush 25/75 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow 

 Airbrush Tamiya Flat Yellow 

 Airbrush 75/25 mix Tamiya Flat Yellow/Flat White 

 Airbrush Tamiya Clear Yellow 

 Wash with a mix of Humbrol Clear, Agrax Earthshade and Seraphim Sepia all thinned down 

 

Sorry for the caps, but didn't want to re-type all this.
PAINT WITH AVERLAND SUNSET BASE, THEN OVER PAINT WITH YRIEL YELLOW.
HIGHLIGHT WITH FLASHGIT YELLOW.
GLAZE WITH CASANDORA YELLOW AND THEN WHEN THIS IS DRY WASH WITH AGRAX EARTHSHADE
DOT RANDOM SPOTS OF BURNT UMBER OIL PAINT OVER THE MODEL AND THEN FLOOD THE MODEL WITH DOWNWARD STROKES OF PURE WHITE SPIRIT, SO THAT THE OIL PAINT ALMOST COMPLETELY RUNS OFF THE MODEL, BUT STILL TINTS IT AND STAYS IN THE

 

Had this bookmarked the last time I went looking for IF schemes: https://rustymagos.wordpress.com/2015/01/11/tutorial-painting-imperial-fist-yellow/

[Slips]

Can Confirm the following scheme is from Forgeworld:

 

 Undercoat Skull White

 

Yellow Areas

 Airbrush 50/50 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow

 Airbrush 25/75 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow

 Airbrush Tamiya Flat Yellow

 Airbrush 75/25 mix Tamiya Flat Yellow/Flat White

 Airbrush Tamiya Clear Yellow

 Wash with a mix of Humbrol Clear, Agrax Earthshade and Seraphim Sepia all thinned down

 

Black Areas

 Abaddon Black

 Highlight – Blend up to Mechanicus Standard Grey

 Final Highlight with Dawnstone

 

from an Email I sent them +/- A year ago

[JeffTibbetts]

I thought FW rarely, if ever, edge-highlighted anything. Do they do it for character infantry? Also, those recipes are a bit old now. I wouldn't be surprised if they axed the third-party products from their methods, or at least the public description of their methods. How recently have you guys and gals gotten that response from them? The closer they get to corporate GW (showing up in WD, etc.), the less likely they'll be able to advertise someone else's paints. 

[Kriegriss]

[/url]">http://http://s76.photobucket.com/user/DBH_Hamilton/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04-28%2011.49.57_zpsjmbvldhu.jpg.html'>http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j9/DBH_Hamilton/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04-28%2011.49.57_zpsjmbvldhu.jpg

 

well I think there are a lot of guys here that do much nicer fists then i do this is a pic that looks very close to how the colour looks in real life and i know its darker/oranger then forge worlds models (so feel free to ignore this post) but i prefer a warmer golden yellow as opposed to canary marines.

 

so I paint mine like:

-White base coat (Important step my method starts bright and works darker which is a little atypical)

-2 light coats of yriel yellow so its well covered you want it to be a strong pigment and you can do it with an airbrush or paintbrush i have done both and i challenge anyone to be able to tell which is which but if hand brushing really thin you're yellows and work in multiple coats yellow takes a lot of time.

-broad liberal highlighting with sunburst yellow or flash gitz they are very similar and how bright you work it is up to you the model you see has one sunburst yellow highlight layer.

-now its down to the washes i do a 4/1 water wash ratio to keep the coats gradual and easy to control because it looks different dry then wet so it keeps there from being drastic changes when its dry. always give a wash 20-30 mins to dry or you will move half dry pigment around and it will cause minor conniption fits.

-you're first wash colour is Cassandora yellow it will blend you're yellows together and warm them up so they are less songbird coloured and more golden yellow praetorian looking.

-second wash is Seraphim Sepia just to add shade and definition to features again do it to you're taste i do enough to make it look like the armour is just a little dirty not deathward grime but worn 

-then do a nuln oil wash on deep recesses like the grills on helmets and vents on backpacks.

 

as for metallics look up kizzdogs emperors children he does way better metallics then me and the black trim is just black and dawnstone grey highlights i have never done a white highlight on edges but might try on terminators if i get any thats it 

 

remember yellow is tough take you're time you'll get it and i believe i have seen some of you're fists and they look great so keep it up

[Kaedes Nex]

 

I've seen a few recipes floating around the net, all claiming to be official FW.

 

 

Undercoat Skull White 

Yellow Areas:

 Airbrush 50/50 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow 

 Airbrush 25/75 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow 

 Airbrush Tamiya Flat Yellow 

 Airbrush 75/25 mix Tamiya Flat Yellow/Flat White 

 Airbrush Tamiya Clear Yellow 

 Wash with a mix of Humbrol Clear, Agrax Earthshade and Seraphim Sepia all thinned down 

 

Sorry for the caps, but didn't want to re-type all this.

PAINT WITH AVERLAND SUNSET BASE, THEN OVER PAINT WITH YRIEL YELLOW.

HIGHLIGHT WITH FLASHGIT YELLOW.

GLAZE WITH CASANDORA YELLOW AND THEN WHEN THIS IS DRY WASH WITH AGRAX EARTHSHADE

DOT RANDOM SPOTS OF BURNT UMBER OIL PAINT OVER THE MODEL AND THEN FLOOD THE MODEL WITH DOWNWARD STROKES OF PURE WHITE SPIRIT, SO THAT THE OIL PAINT ALMOST COMPLETELY RUNS OFF THE MODEL, BUT STILL TINTS IT AND STAYS IN THE

 

Had this bookmarked the last time I went looking for IF schemes: https://rustymagos.wordpress.com/2015/01/11/tutorial-painting-imperial-fist-yellow/

 

It's hard to identify which of those two recipes is the right one, because the first one seems right due to the constant mixing and airbrushing, but I also know the burnt umber oil drip was used for FW's Perturabo (along with, you guessed it, a Leadbelcher/Ironbreaker airbrushed mix).

[m_r_parker]

If you're really interested, then the upcoming Masterclass book has the detailed steps they used for painting an IF Falchion. You may have seen the actual model in the various Open Day pics, that's the one they painted. Not sure on the steps, but you can guarentee that there will be some use of the ForgeWorld airbrush paints (although the Phallanx Yellow is rather lemon-y / pastel for my tastes IMO).

One tip I got for general painting from those guys was the 'Miracle Wash' - which is simply 50% Nuln Oil and 50% Sepia, and the FW guys makes this up in large vats for general use over their models. For some reason the shading it produces is always on-the-nose of what you were wanting, going to be trying this out myself.

 

As for myself, I'm finding Flash Gitz Yellow over a Vallejo Surface Primer to be a great starting point, providing you can get the consistency right.

 

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t272/m_r_parker/Imperial%20Fist%20Plog/D1395887-1BB6-46BC-A154-0C1CEEEE7258_zps6mp1qaav.jpg

[Phalanx Warder]

This is the FW recipe, but the mini in the middle has Lemanters wash and the two on either side are washed in Casandora(SP?).

Here you see that the Auto cannon guys are all washed in Lemanters and the breachers are washed in Casandora: