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Do you varnish your models?


m0nolith

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Im just trying to figure out how common it is to varnish ones models. Most models that I see here are unvarnished, but Im wondering what the norm is for where you guys are for decently painted armies. 

Im a little on the fence about varnishing mine, but im worried it may damage my models so iv kept from it for now.

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I use Windsor & Newton matte acrylic varnish.

 

Occasionally if I do not want it too flat I'll add a drop of 'ardcoat. Apply by brush.

 

If you are using stuff like masking tape, it is kinda essential to protect the paint and stop it peeling off. I also handle my models a lot when painting and sometimes the paint will wear off, so the varnish helps with that too :)

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I do, although i've only recently started varnishing as part of the painting process for things like Oil paints.

 

When a model is finished there is something lovely about a coat of matte varnish to smooth everything together.

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I use Windsor & Newton matte acrylic varnish.

Occasionally if I do not want it too flat I'll add a drop of 'ardcoat. Apply by brush.

If you are using stuff like masking tape, it is kinda essential to protect the paint and stop it peeling off. I also handle my models a lot when painting and sometimes the paint will wear off, so the varnish helps with that too smile.png

Have you ever applied varnish by airbrush?

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I use Windsor & Newton matte acrylic varnish.

Occasionally if I do not want it too flat I'll add a drop of 'ardcoat. Apply by brush.

If you are using stuff like masking tape, it is kinda essential to protect the paint and stop it peeling off. I also handle my models a lot when painting and sometimes the paint will wear off, so the varnish helps with that too smile.png

I've heard a great tip for masking tape. Just put it on your jeans a couple of times to take some of the tackiness out of it. Still plenty sticky for masking but won't take the paint off.

I do, although i've only recently started varnishing as part of the painting process for things like Oil paints.

When a model is finished there is something lovely about a coat of matte varnish to smooth everything together.

I'm in this camp. I only recently started doing it because I've been playing with weathering techniques, and now I plan to continue doing so. One thing to note is that if you're using certain paints for effect, like Blood for the Blood God, you should do it afterwards since that will take the gloss out. Seems obvious but I forgot about it the first couple times.

I use Windsor & Newton matte acrylic varnish.

Occasionally if I do not want it too flat I'll add a drop of 'ardcoat. Apply by brush.

If you are using stuff like masking tape, it is kinda essential to protect the paint and stop it peeling off. I also handle my models a lot when painting and sometimes the paint will wear off, so the varnish helps with that too smile.png

Have you ever applied varnish by airbrush?

I've been using rattle cans, but I'd like to start airbrushing it. I've never heard of any frosting issues with drybrushed varnish. Scale modelers use floor polish as a varnish, airbrushed on, all the time. I don't like my models glossy, so I'd like to find a good matte alternative if anyone knows of any.

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I use Army Painter's Matte Varnish. Works well so far, I've never had any issues with it.

Iv heard thats one of the better ones, but does it change the properties of the colour? Does it change it at all or does it expose layering more?

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I've never seen any real changes. It does dull the colors a little bit, but nothing that I've ever had any problems with. Never use it in high humidity though. It can "dust" pretty bad. Ask my WHFB Empire captain, he's now known as "Captain Dusty".

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Purity Seal works well enough for me.  I varnish everything, but especially pewter models, since it's much easier to scrape paint off the surface.

 

Be aware that matte varnishes will flatten the luster of metal paints.  If you're painting models that are predominately metal, like Grey Knights, you'd probably not appreciate losing the model's shine.  I think satin and gloss varnishes don't have the same problem or less of a problem, but I've never tried.

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Ask my WHFB Empire captain, he's now known as "Captain Dusty".

 

 

He would go well with Frosty the Death Company dread'.

 

I always matt varnish all my models, even metallic finishes. For me it doesn't matter too much about losing the metallic sheen as much as protecting the model during gaming.

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Ask my WHFB Empire captain, he's now known as "Captain Dusty".

 

He would go well with Frosty the Death Company dread'.

 

I always matt varnish all my models, even metallic finishes. For me it doesn't matter too much about losing the metallic sheen as much as protecting the model during gaming.

I'm assuming this is the same problem with priming in humidity. This summer I learned a new trick to help with that. I prime my models in the humidity, the quickly put them in a cardboard box top (taller then the models primed), then I bring the box into an air conditioned indoors and quickly place it in a gallon ziplock bag, sealing in the non humid air. Then I let the primer dry, either indoors or out. I haven't had any fuzzy models since and I have primed in 85% + humidity. Obviously you would need a really big bag and box to do this with a baneblade or other model. I imagine this would work with varnishing as well as priming.

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Ask my WHFB Empire captain, he's now known as "Captain Dusty".

 

He would go well with Frosty the Death Company dread'.

 

I always matt varnish all my models, even metallic finishes. For me it doesn't matter too much about losing the metallic sheen as much as protecting the model during gaming.

I'm assuming this is the same problem with priming in humidity. This summer I learned a new trick to help with that. I prime my models in the humidity, the quickly put them in a cardboard box top (taller then the models primed), then I bring the box into an air conditioned indoors and quickly place it in a gallon ziplock bag, sealing in the non humid air. Then I let the primer dry, either indoors or out. I haven't had any fuzzy models since and I have primed in 85% + humidity. Obviously you would need a really big bag and box to do this with a baneblade or other model. I imagine this would work with varnishing as well as priming.

 

 

Clever, but what's the point of the plastic bag? If you're leaving them in an air-conditioned room it shouldn't be needed. Or is that actually an odor-control method? That makes sense. 

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I spray metal and resin models with a good solid coat of gloss varnish and then follow up with a coat of matt varnish; plastic models only get the latter.

 

This is because gloss varnish, unlike matt, is tough and will protect the paint, keeping it from coming off the model to a reasonable degree (assuming you don’t throw the models around or together into a box). Model/game paint adheres to plastic models much better than to metal ones, so there’s no need for the protection the gloss varnish gives. The matt varnish in both cases is simply to remove the shine.

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Question:

If I need to apply some varnish to something cloth, such as robes that I have painted with several different layers, what varnish do I use to make the layers blend into each other more? I heard that if you apply matte to layers it will emphasizes the differences instead of blending them in.

Should I paint with satin first and then matte over that satin?

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Ask my WHFB Empire captain, he's now known as "Captain Dusty".

He would go well with Frosty the Death Company dread'.

 

I always matt varnish all my models, even metallic finishes. For me it doesn't matter too much about losing the metallic sheen as much as protecting the model during gaming.

I'm assuming this is the same problem with priming in humidity. This summer I learned a new trick to help with that. I prime my models in the humidity, the quickly put them in a cardboard box top (taller then the models primed), then I bring the box into an air conditioned indoors and quickly place it in a gallon ziplock bag, sealing in the non humid air. Then I let the primer dry, either indoors or out. I haven't had any fuzzy models since and I have primed in 85% + humidity. Obviously you would need a really big bag and box to do this with a baneblade or other model. I imagine this would work with varnishing as well as priming.

Clever, but what's the point of the plastic bag? If you're leaving them in an air-conditioned room it shouldn't be needed. Or is that actually an odor-control method? That makes sense.

Yes, it keeps the smell of paint out of the house.

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Question:

If I need to apply some varnish to something cloth, such as robes that I have painted with several different layers, what varnish do I use to make the layers blend into each other more? I heard that if you apply matte to layers it will emphasizes the differences instead of blending them in.

Should I paint with satin first and then matte over that satin?

 

Varnish alters colors in such a way that each shade in the blend will become more stark and less blended. I think the only way to fix this would be to use an archival grade acrylic varnish that doesn't affect colors, or to get the blend even smoother with a glaze or something before varnishing. Basically make your blend "even better" so the varnish's effect is lessened when it "ruins" your blend.

 

This is the reason competition painters never varnish their models and skilled painters who need to varnish a gaming piece will paint the piece differently to account for the effects of varnish. Same thing with weathering. They always apply a bit more powder because they know they will lose a lot of it when sealing.

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All my minis get a coat or two of Testors Dullcote spray varnish.  Using it on sunny days under 60% humidity, I've had no trouble with frosting to date.  As far as the effect on colors and blending, I haven't noticed any change other than a slight dulling of metallics.  In fact, except in very strong natural light, I can't tell a varnished mini from an unvarnished one.

 

Edit:  I also use vallejo brush-on varnish for decal work.  It's good stuff, but be careful not to put it on too thickly.  I'm not sure if all brush-ons are like this, but a thick application of the vallejo matte will collect in cracks and make little off-white lines on your mini.

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Yeah, the same thing happens with washes. If you thin with water and use a brush, if you let it pool it tends to dry white. Even if you airbrush this can happen.

If you need to thin an acrylic, I suggest using the appropriate medium. Acrylic medium/thinner for acrylic varnish, lacquer thinner for lacquer varnish, etc. Or simply wick excess away from your brush on a paper towel so your brush isn't dripping in varnish, then try to spread what's on your brush over a larger portion of the model. Varnish is clear so it's not like you'll have to worry about thick varnish covering up details, unless you absolutely slop it on.

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