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FW keeper of Secrets

FWVirgin HALP Resin assembly Painting airbrushing

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6 replies to this topic

#1
darkseren1ty

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Greetings fellow heretics, xenos scum and servants of the corpse-God.

I've recently purchased my first FW model, the KoS, but it's a completely different beast than the kits I'm used to assembling and painting.

My usual MO with GW plastic minis is to clip all the parts off the sprues and file off any excess and shave any mould lines, then prime each piece (I've always used a Matte black spray paint) individually.

Following this, I'd dry fit the pieces a couple times to see if I could glue em together without hindering my painting the details of the model.

I'd then paint either small components or individual pieces and then glue the whole thing together and fill up any gaps (with regular or liquid green stuff) and complete the painting of covered gaps.

But since this is my first resin model (believe it or not, I do NOT own any citadel failcast models- I stopped playing/collecting for a decade which was coincidentally the period where failcast was released), there are some things I have to query before I inadvertently harm this model.

Firstly, removing the mould lines on this model... What's the best way to go about it? Shave it off with a craft knife and sand it down?
I was planning to do this, but I'm concerned that sanding down the mould lines (especially over the skin parts) will leave a rough finish. And since I'm planning to use very thin layers of paint, I'm concerned that the rough abrasions will be seen thru the paint. Is this really an issue? I'm trying to get the skin to be as smooth as possible. So smooth she will slide uphill with a wild Barry White appearing in the background.

Secondly, bending the 'hair’ tendrils... I'm told by the mighty google that hot water will make them pliant enough to bend. Just want to confirm this. Don't want to accidentally put these in boiling water for them to melt out of shape, or cause them to snap while I'm bending them.

Thirdly, how do you deal with bubbles in the pieces?

Fourthly, I am going to be airbrushing quite a bit on this model, especially over the skin, both for differing skin tones as well as for tattooing the skin using some handmade stencils. So I wil have to assemble the skin pieces together for this and I need to seal up the gaps.

After pinning n gluing the model, what's the best way to seal up the gaps to make a seamless join between the arms and torso? Use liquid green stuff?

And lastly, I'm planning to base coat with a regular matte white spray paint. Is this ok for resin? Does it peel/chip?

Please and thank you in advance.

Will post up pics in WIP once I start.

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#2
Teetengee

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I don't have much to offer here except to say that the hot water trick should work just fine (i have done it with said failcast, although not any proper FW models). I am interested in the answers to your questions as well.


My Chaos WIP Thread (Bigger Pics and Foul Xenos offsite) Hall of Honour, My Storm Reavers (DIY SM Chapter) Story, My Chaos 7.5 Homebrew Codex Thread
In us burns a fire for vengeance that will only be quenched when we stand triumphant over the smoldering ruins of Terra. Our laughter on that day will haunt their survivors till the end of time. We will stride forth victorious through the shattered gates of their fortress, holding high aloft the defiled corpse of their rotting god as our prize.
Wulfkry, on 02 Jul 2013 - 3:38 PM, said: So an inquisitor is receiving SM implants using GK geneseed stolen off the fields of armageddon interesting..
Captain Semper, on 29 May 2015 - 4:10 AM, said: There is crazy and there is Teetengee crazy... ph34r.pngnuke.gif

Warsmith Aznable, on 30 Jan 2016 - 01:16 AM, said: 13. Teetengee wrote "Warp Born" and I won't even go into how disturbing the subject matter was.
The Psycho, on 26 Apr 2016 - 10:50 PM, said: That's either really disturbing or really cute, I haven't quite made up my mind yet.

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#3
Grotsmasha

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Firstly, removing the mould lines on this model... What's the best way to go about it? Shave it off with a craft knife and sand it down?
I was planning to do this, but I'm concerned that sanding down the mould lines (especially over the skin parts) will leave a rough finish. And since I'm planning to use very thin layers of paint, I'm concerned that the rough abrasions will be seen thru the paint. Is this really an issue? I'm trying to get the skin to be as smooth as possible. So smooth she will slide uphill with a wild Barry White appearing in the background.

 

If you're concerned about flat spots/roughness, I would stick with the flat of a Hobby Knife for mould lines.

Secondly, bending the 'hair’ tendrils... I'm told by the mighty google that hot water will make them pliant enough to bend. Just want to confirm this. Don't want to accidentally put these in boiling water for them to melt out of shape, or cause them to snap while I'm bending them.

 

Yep hot water is safe with FW Resin, hot water from the tap will be plenty hot enough, just give it a soak for a 30sec at a time until you can bend it with your fingers. Then once you have it where you'd like run it under cold tap water.

Thirdly, how do you deal with bubbles in the pieces?

 

Little blobs of super glue of Liquid GS will do it.

Fourthly, I am going to be airbrushing quite a bit on this model, especially over the skin, both for differing skin tones as well as for tattooing the skin using some handmade stencils. So I wil have to assemble the skin pieces together for this and I need to seal up the gaps.

After pinning n gluing the model, what's the best way to seal up the gaps to make a seamless join between the arms and torso? Use liquid green stuff?

 

Yep, Liquid GS.

And lastly, I'm planning to base coat with a regular matte white spray paint. Is this ok for resin? Does it peel/chip?

 

As with all Resin models, a wash in warm, soapy water before any paint or glue is absolutely necessary as Mould Release Agent will seriously inhibit the paint sticking to the model. Once washed and dried, any paint you'd use on the plastic models will be fine.



#4
darkseren1ty

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Domo arigato sensei

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#5
m_r_parker

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First things first - ForgeWorld have a guide for those uninitiated in the art of working with resin. It's probably a good read if you've not worked on non-plastic miniatures before: LINK

 

Here are some tips I've picked up in my experience:

  • Wash your resin! Most Resin producers use a release agent to get their models out the molds. It's extremely greasy (it's the best way I can describe it), and if it's on your models before you start painting you'll find the paint coming off as it dries (as mentioned before). I stick my parts in a washing-up bucket and fill it with hot water from the tap and some washing-up liquid, then using a cheap toothbrush (ironically they're better than more expensive toothbrushes for this work) get into all the recesses where the agent can pool. When washed, I lay them on a tea-towel and place them in my airing cupboard to dry for a day or two.
  • If you're creating resin dust, use a mask and work in a well ventilated room: I don't think ForgeWorld resin is as bad as it use to be in terms of carcenagens, but if you're planning on filing or sawing (or using sandpaper), then you're going to producing a fine dust that shouldn't be inhaled. Make sure you're in a well ventilated room, and wearing a mask if need be.
  • Resin is soft: Much softer than plastic, but also quite brittle. Using a knife can very quickly whittle chunks out of your model if you're not careful.
  • Resin bends in hot water, and sunlight:A bit of heat is all that's required to bend thin pieces of resin. You don't need boiling waer fresh out of the kettle, but maybe a cup that's been poured for a couple of minutes and a quick 5 second dunk will make the resin pliable. It'll become firm when it cools, it's always a good idea to have a cup of cold water to plunge your warm resin in once you get it into shape.
  • Pinning resin is tiresome, but worth it: Especially for larger pieces, you can't overdo pinning activities. 
  • LIquid green stuff is your friend: Some models are notorious for fitting badly, or having bubbles. Green stuff, especially the liquid one, will help cover the gaps.
  • Before you pain, seal: Before you undercoat your model, apply a layer of Purity Seal. It helps the undercoat stick to the model, and i've not had a model flake off paint since I started doing this.

 

Hope this helps.


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#6
spafe

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one last tip that the others haven't mentioned but might be useful, when I was filing down resin (krieg), I did it under water, just filled the same bucket I used for washing the resin in with cool water, placed the model and the file underwater and filled it. This will stop you breathing it in as it is trapped and held in the water. Hope that helps.


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#7
darkseren1ty

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Thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it. Hoping to make this model one of the center-pieces for my army, so I want to make sure I'm doing this correctly.


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