Captain Gideon Emitt Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Simply awesome I think this is great I'm gonna have a nice big captain with a nice big power axe. Or I may even try it on a terminator. OOOOOOOOOH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphz Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Would it be crazy to say Im seriously considering doing a good chunk of my army with this method or similar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marovingean Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 It'd take you a damn long while. Maybe the Veteran squads? and Commander and Command Squad, people in some form of power. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ettore Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 Elusive71, all my attempts to send you a private message have failed...can you please clean your pm's box? I have something to tell you ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkmarauder Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 Good work, well scaled! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cry Wolf Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 great work ive just bought the marine company and am doing it a mix of dog house pattern and mostly (80 marines) yours. Ive just completed the first squad and Bjorn the Fell Handed(not in Dread) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_charisma Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 There are many true-scaling tutorials out there, such as the Doghouse and synapse patterns. But I think this tutorial is, by far, one of the most in depth. After reading some of the Horus Heresy books, I looked at the covers and some of them have great art on them. One in particular that I was struck by was 'Legion.' By following this tutorial, I have created a marine that is reminiscent of that marine. This is what I have come up with, note this is still a WIP, so C&C is welcome. Note I followed this tutorial to the 't' save for the lengthening the arms part, which I'll take into account doing. Here is a good idea of what he will look like when finished, And a comparison shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commander alexander Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Sweet charisma :( . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirax Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Is it possible to do that to a set of marines, then make casts using the models as a mould? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chloemarqz Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 This Tutorial is indeed amazing. I am going to have a lot of fun when it comes to true-scaling my metal death guard. However, I am determined to find a way, and this is helping me a great deal. yours, chloe _______________ Simulation pret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frijj Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Is it possible to do that to a set of marines, then make casts using the models as a mould? Yes its perfectly possible. Though as far as i know your not allowed to give your casted mini to anyone else, not sell them either. This is a legal issue, though i dont know how far this goes and the exact law. Simply search on youtube for moulding and casting tutorials. You should find something pretty good. And just in case you find many different methods. From people i know the best materials are volcanised (2 part mixed by yourself) Rubber. And 2 part resign. So make sure you buy the right stuff, it should say whether the mold rubber is used for metal or resign. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SungJi Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Its important too keep a good thing going, so here are mine : ) size comparison between human and primarch http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads...550_1731529.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamelli Streamfisher Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 @SungJi: Where did you find that model of Hours? It doesn't look converted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiplash Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 i have to say that although i really like the models most of the height gained is through straigtening the legs so they aren't much bigger than usual they just look it EDIT~: nice tutorial pictures though very handy :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFortunato Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Hmmm, as a quick question to the boffin who made the tutorial... can you let me know if i'm on the right track with this? (my summary & how i would do it...) 1) Cut stomach away from chest plate, and cut the belt buckle away. 2) add plasticard spacers to chest & back, glue together, add stomach again (it stops the marine looking fat apparently) and add a plasticard strip around the belt to extend it, now add the belt buckle again. 3) cut the crotch plate ( ) from the thighs (leave the ribbing on), and add plasticard spacers, use a knife to put the details of the armour on the palsticard - glue together. 4) Lastly (although i reckon this is optional), cut the top off the ball that the torso is glued on, add a plasticard spacer, cut to size, and glue the top back... Oh, and one last thing... if i didn't cut the stomach bit away, and put the plasticard spacers at an angle where they didn't put it outwards, would that work? Or would the stomach not then attach to the back & it would require GS gap filling? Cheers ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tau guy Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 I make them true scaled when they are in parts and cast them in resin. sorry for my bad english, i am from finland. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simmml Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 HEY :D (hope this isn't dead yet...xD http://www.flickr.com/photos/62096335@N02/...tream/lightbox/ my 13th truescale marine (hes my chaptermaster^^) http://www.flickr.com/photos/62096335@N02/...tream/lightbox/ chaptermaster with hammer is a bit higher than the cybot (sruescaled too^^) [cybot without banner] http://www.flickr.com/photos/62096335@N02/...tream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/62096335@N02/...tream/lightbox/ [forgive me... im to dumb to add pics properly...-.-] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIDM Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 @SungJi: Where did you find that model of Hours? It doesn't look converted. google it there are a few companies making Primarchs, I saw one guy with most every one, I will go look http://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img3/item/173/686/399/warhammer-40k-warmaster-horus-chaos-primarch-heresy-le-ad901.jpg found it not sure about stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veteran Sergeant Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I like this tutorial and the models look really good. I've done something similar, but with a few differences. I chose to cut the legs is just above the knee, since the models' thighs are too short already. The details on the plastics start high enough that you won't even have to re-do any of that except on certain leg sets (the commander's thigh purity seal will have to be trimmed off and repositioned, for example) And just insert a card on the thigh. I chose 1mm for the first iteration, with .5mm at the waist. Now, for aesthetic reasons, I only use Mk7 legs, so ymmv if you're modeling beakies or, even more difficult I imagine, Heresy era Marines. Though I imagine if you're willing to pay for that many Forge World models, you're way, way more invested in this hobby than I am, so that might not be a concern for you, haha. The other benefit to extending the thigh (aside from correcting anatomical shortcomings of the stock models), is that the thighs are more or less cylindrical, which means less work filing down the card insert so it doesn't show. The lower legs are angled, and adding even just a single mm means having to re-slope them. Also, I kept my torsos the same thickness because it seems to be more "realistic" to the frame of a human being. I didn't really feel there was any need to make them more barrel chested. And I kept the arms the same length because, honestly, the standard models have gorilla arms. Even ending up 1.5mm taller, the arms still hang a little low, haha. I've considered extending to .75mm at the waist but that opens up a new monster since it would require repositioning the belt like yours have. I've tried to do this relatively efficiently since I'm going to be converting an entire company (100+ models) to start. I've also been filing down the large ammo pouches to be the same size as the bolter's magazine, cutting them apart to be single pouches (easier to fit the contours of the waistline and legs)) and positioning them on the waists of the Marines, because, well, it doesn't matter if you are truer to scale or not if you don't have enough ammunition to actually prosecute a battle. Making sure to have plenty of grenades too. I want the models to be closer to the 7-7.5 foot height of the older fluff, not the rather absurd giants they've turned into in some stories. Honestly, it seems there would be diminishing returns the larger they got; not being able to fit in doorways, corridors, etc and being easier to hit on the battlefield and too heavy for some structures designed to accommodate normal humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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