A Mordian march to glory

[spafe]

If you are considering valhallan regiment for them, I'd definetly leave them in white and red... but then, I also really like the white scheme. At most I'd go the space wolf grey colour on them.

 

I think the highlights really make the mordian pop, although could be a slower project for sure.

[our_baz]

People actually think your running white scars? Oh dear.

The extra highlighting helps the troopers pop. It's more work but they do look good. But don't change the armour, the white and red is great it's so unique for a guard army.

[NatBrannigan]

If you paint them grey people will be asking where your Thunderwolves are...

 

I say play up to it! Keep them white and model a load of Rough Riders riding bikes.

[duz_]

Thanks all for the nice words! You know how to make a jnr commissar feel loved! :D

 

Hrmm so sounds like the mob had spoken! Keep the white and red... except I did want to try something else (hobby ADHD I guess?). So the only reasonable way forward would be to start collecting a new armoured company so I try out a new colour scheme! :D ;)

 

I might redo my chimeras in said paint scheme. There is one which isn't at the same level as the other two and its been bugging me for a while so seems like the likely candidate for a dettol bath...

 

As for the Mordians. I think Ill set myself a target of 3-5 minis a weekend (when possible) to up their painting level. I need to figure out how to varnish stuff now too.

 

I also bought some astrogranite yesterday to start my re-basing project. Fortunately I should have enough spare ones I can just base them switch the models over to the new ones and bathe the old ones.

So much hobby C&M to do!

Edited October 11, 2017 by duz_

[duz_]

What's this? Another Baneblade commission? :)

This one will be using Elmo's magnetizing tutorial too. :D

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/page-2?do=findComment&comment=3867853

[MithrilForge]

i love the extra effort work on your troops and ard coating them will be best - Testors dulcote is the best i know for a matt finish that doesn't ruin your models (never had the Frosty/whitening effect from Testors)

i think changing the rim base colour may make your units pop a bit more also,since your going to all that Eavy metal effort anyways  

If i was to change anything on your tanks/Vehicles i would put a large blue stripe right down the middle of each vehicle, the blue on your taurox's really looks sharp  

that would be my suggestion,only if you had to change something,but as others have said they look fine as is...

 

cheers, Mithril

 

p.s. great effort at the tourney !! 

[duz_]

Thanks Mith! :D

So finished the build part! Thanks Elmo! :D

Next step undercoating although I'll be outta town most this week.

[MithrilForge]

And that is where i'd put a las-cannon on my tank...right up the front to get the best range i can  

 

great stuff Duz! 

 

cheers,Mithril 

[duz_]

So finally did my VM order today! :D
Got myself:

• 2x Van Diemen's World Devils 10 Man Squad
• 1x Tannenburg Fusiliers 5 Woman Squad

I plan on running those unruly Van Diemen's as my plasma veterans to make a plasma gun execution squad :)

(I plan on using some HH era plasma guns for these guys)

As for the female Tanneburg I want to add a bit of diversity to my list and will be using them as Sgts and Officers ;) 

I have heard nothing but good things about VM's stuff so I'm excited to see it in person! :D

[Major_Gilbear]

Nice, I'll be looking forward to your review of these! :)

[Guardsman Bob]

Just sick, Duz. I love it.

[WAR]

Nice, I'll be looking forward to your review of these!

 

Seconded

[WarriorFish]

I'll get round to a VM order one day... once I clear my backlog? Looking forward to you setting to work on them duz :tu:

[Tallarn Commander]

I got my first VM order in July (plasma weaponry, crates, etc). Oh my were the sculpts and casts excellent!

 

My next VM purchase is a 35 tropper VM mixed female/male Praetorian platoon to support my Tallarns.

[duz_]

Look what arrived yesterday! These Victoria Miniature casts look great! Although a bit of clean up required. I see what all the good press is about! Im certainly tempted to get more of the female minis!

Does anyone know if you need to wash her resin?

[Halfpint100]

Look what arrived yesterday! These Victoria Miniature casts look great! Although a bit of clean up required. I see what all the good press is about! Im certainly tempted to get more of the female minis!

Does anyone know if you need to wash her resin?

Not a clue about washing, but you are probably safer if you do, just in case. Better you wash it and it doesn't need it, rather than not wash it and it needs it

[Major_Gilbear]

Agree: wash just in case! :)

[duz_]

So I cut off some sprue to see if they would glue together, turns out they wouldnt so off to the bath they all went!
Theyre all cut washed and ready to be assembled now :)

In the meanwhile I've been working on my friend's Baneblade. Trying my hand a pre-shading with my airbrush. Hard to see in the pictures, but I'm happy with how its turning out :D

[Nicodemus Doloroso]

Same with the above, I don't know whether her resin needs to be washed but I did it anyway just to be safe with mine.

[duz_]

Well got all the green done...

The Baneblade turret shading didnt come through as well as the stormlord variants :ermm:

Im now debating between just washing the recesses or the whole model + dry brush. Not sure if I want a clean look or not.

I've also been messing around with my Victoria Minature models that arrived. Great models! Not much flashing either however resin still sucks and despite giving the minis a wash it didnt seem to get the releasing agent off so I've opted for alcohol wipes + loctite gel to get them assembled.

[Major_Gilbear]

I don't know how you normally clean your resin figs, but I make a very concentrated solution of hand-hot water and dish soap, and just soak the parts for a good week before fishing them out and scrubbing them with a toothbrush. By "very concentrated", I mean I put a good inch of strong dish soap in the bottom of a bowl, add the water, and then add the resin parts.

 

As for joints, try using an emery board over the areas that you're gluing first. Not only does lightly abrading the surface help get any residual release agent off, it also helps the superglue bond to the surface due to the very slightly roughened texture.

 

Otherwise, looking very good! (Oh, and don't forget that VM review, will you?).

[iceman2160]

I use the Loctite gel when I assemble anything. (My coordination is optional at best and I frequently suffer from dropped model syndrome.)   That being said, most of my models have been able to survive my clumsiness.

[Withershadow]

Anyone that routinely works with resin owes it to themselves to buy the following two tools:

1. Ultrasonic cleaner - only $20 or so online, fill it with hot water and cleaning agent of choice, efficiently work huge batches of models without having to take a toothbrush to every arm and lasgun.  You can see the mold release agent floating on top of the water after 5-10 minutes.

 

2. Heat gun - yes, lots of people say just to use hot water to heat it up, but that requires a lot of physical bending that sometimes reverts even after quenching.  It's kind of magical to watch a sword bent at 90 degrees slowly straighten out to its original post-mold shape just from application of the heat gun.  Then just a dip in a bowl of cold water, and you're off to the races.  

[duz_]

Thanks WS

A US cleaner has been on the to get list for a while

One day I will get one, my main concern is buying a $20 that ends up electrocuting everyone in the house! 

 

Hrmm heat ray... interesting... 

 

Review will come once all are assembled :)

[duz_]

Spent several hours yesterday washing the recesses and rivets on the BB.
I was concerned to begin with as I though it might clash with the airbrush pre-shading

It seems to have really helped make it pop and compliment the shading though :)
Still have the fiddly bit to wash then I need to do the metal parts.

After that its down to final details and stencils / transfers