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Help fixing up old RT rhino kits


SW1

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I have some really mashed up rhino kits and need to rebuild them. What type of sandable filler would anyone recommend and what type of sanding blocks/paper would you use?

I've read automotive filler for fixing car bodies is the direction to go (not sure if the make of the filler makes a difference?) and a high grit sand paper (though the highest I seem to find in my usual shopping places is still fairly rough and designed or decorating paint work).

So anyone in the uk can direct me to a particular store and exact product names to look for would be really helpful!

Just been through the models an there's atleast 26 that I hope are rescuable out of close to 40. I'm hoping by the time I fix up the first 20 odd I will have the skills to rescue all of them.

Will edit some pic in once uploaded.

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Here's some pics of the damage I'm going to need to iron out ...

gallery_25187_11230_221929.jpg

gallery_25187_11230_353104.jpg

gallery_25187_11230_238335.jpg

And here's the pile of tanks awaiting some TLC + a bag of metal bits for making some into Raz's/Pred's ...

gallery_25187_11230_471281.jpg

gallery_25187_11230_1090670.jpg

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Sorry not trying to answer a questions with a question here but have you ever tried working with Squadron Putty

It works great for filling gaps, made for scale models, might require less aggressive sanding then a light Auto filler like Bondo.

 

 

Edit >  just saw your pictures,  i can see why you are asking about auto filler. 

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I'm going to try and bring these back to as close to original as possible. I've got quite a few of the missing bits and could if needed cast missing small bits up. But before I get to that point I need to remove the randomly glued on bits and get the bodies sound again. I know this means I'm likely to have to re build the mesh triangular bits either side but most have been knackered when a youthful idiot aka me decided to add extra armour very badly well over a decade ago.

 

If the sides are a no hope then it'll be scratch building extra armour plates to afix to the sides and attempting to just rescue the detail on the front/top/back o them.

 

Getting them organised and into some semblance of order is the most I've managed to do before sticking them back in the box over the years. This time no matter what the outcome I'm going to be having a go at rescuing atleast one of them!!!

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There is a tutorial on building extra armor on this board some where. That could disguise a lot of damage.

 

I worked with bondo a fair bit years back. I think the stuff might be harder then the plastic and thus the sand paper would bite the plastic faster then the filler. Perhaps different forms of the stuff.

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My main experience with sanding of plastics has been trim close to what I want, then needle file and finally scrape with a surgical blade held about 90 deg to the surface. Small details are absolutely fine like this but large flat surfaces I'm doubtful a about.

 

I was concerned that the filler would be harder then the plastic and cause issues.

 

If I go the side skirts line I'd want it to look like there was a way for the marines to exit the side doors which is the biggest issue with all the options I've seen. Once I come up with a solution I can make a master for each side and then cast them up.

 

I'm also going to be replacing the exhausts by casting up the bodies of the exhausts drilling out the centre and then adding pipe/tubing to the top. I've got some ok exhausts but not enough so that's going to be a given.

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I've been using cheap sanding blocks from 99p store/Poundland, and re-skinning with plasticard if necessary. It's alot easier than trying to fill holes and smooth them off

Look for these, three in a bag for a quid.

++ the other good thing is that you can fire staples into the end to get them for hatch handles.

 

firm_hand_pad2.jpg?itok=ihOct3l8

 

I've also discovered that soaking in Dettol for a few days, then half an hour in isopropyl alcohol will remove all the paint from any old plastic kits.

It doesn't have to be branded Dettol - Lidl's disinfectant, or Astonish Germ Clear all work just as well. You can get isopropyl alcohol in Maplin or online, it's bout £14/litre but I'm still using the first batch I poured - it's cleaned about 30 Marines and 4 Rhinos so far.

These two still had to be soaked, but I wanted to get some templates sorted for panel sizes so I could work while they were soaking.

 

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag138/mightyjazzman/IMAG2070_zpsmm2x0bz5.jpg

 

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag138/mightyjazzman/IMAG2071_zpstqlfjxhe.jpg

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I've picked up 3 RT Rhinos to play with. Seems the exhaust on those all end up broken. I've been working on 2 of them and have tried a couple ways to replace the broken exhaust.

Thus one is Defiler exhaust glued together, so takes 2 sets

gallery_74843_8971_407612.jpg

This one is Lehman Russ exhaust. Looks better than the original and my Defiler option to me.

gallery_74843_8971_476181.jpg

I haven't started looking for putty yet. The model airplane store closes same time I get off work. May end up trying bondo from the auto parts store.

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