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Building a Warlord Titan


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Titan Name: Custodi Tempestas

Princep: Decimus Karamov

Legio: Legio Tempestus

Affiliation: Unknown

 

I was asked by Ovidius Incertus here on Bolter and Chainsword to put together a build log of my efforts to build a Warlord Titan. Here then I will catalogue the build for posterity.

 

For me, the Warlord IS the reason I love 30K/40K. I got a box of Battle a Titans, a Copy of Space Marine and Codex Titanicus one year for my Birthday and never looked back.

 

Each post in this series will cover a step, or number of the steps from the Forgeworld instruction. I will deviate from the instructions if I think, or have been advised there is, a better way to build it.

 

At the end of the build, I'll update this post to be a summary.

 

I hope you enjoy this build with me!

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The Step 1: First I attached the ball joints to the hip using JB Weld and a big clamp! Before gluing I roughed up the surfaces to aid purchase. 24 hour drying time is required for this product, but it has a really strong bond.

 

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Step 2: Then I built the shins. More JB Welding, clamping and waiting!

 

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Step 3: I then built the attached the lower and upper leg together. Clamping the knee joint and more JB weld. Again, 24 hour drying time is required.

 

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Step 4: Built the feet. They were again glued using JB Weld, but clamps were not required. I put this on a nice flat surface to make sure they are properly flat.

 

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Step 5: This is the hardest step thus far. I slipped the hip rings over the hip ball joints, then used JB Kwik on all the contact surfaces; both ankles and both hips. The ankles don't have a very good contact area, but this will get pinned later. JB Kwik isn't as strong as JB Weld, but it's still a lot stronger than superglue. I'll be pinning the hips and knees as well later. I kept an ankle piston roller thing handy to check alignments thought out the posing.

 

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The pose I choose is hopefully quite erect. There are quite a few warlords out there now that are squatting. I hope the model portrays a braced pause in stride, to launch a salvo at the enemy.

 

So that's the basic the legs built. The armour plate connectors and hip Pistons will be left off until after pining. The armour plates and ankle piston roller things will be left off until after painting.

 

Next step, pinning!

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Looking forward to it. May I suggest checking out

for prep? ;)

Cheers Olis, I've watched them once or twice already! Dave Taylor's are quite good too. From a blog perspective, 'WeeMen' and 'aguardsmansguidetoglory' are worth a look too.

 

Any Comments and Criticism on the format welcome.

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@ Athrawes, cheers for the support. Main head ache I have it the arms, but we will see. I've seen various configurations out there.

 

Aaaaaaand subscribed!

 

Looking forward to watching this progress.  Will it be based, or just freestanding?

 

Where is the Lucius pattern head available?  Only at Warhammer World?

It will be free standing like my Reaver. I doubt I could lift it and a base ;)

 

I got the Lucius Head from the weekender. I'm expecting a release day soon now they are releasing things again.

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Nice work!

 

I finished almost all the construction on mine some weeks ago. Right now I' in the middle of the mental process to muster enough courage to start painting the bloody thing. So far I've started lightly with the inside of the head :)

 

What armament are you planning to run and are you pinning/magnetizing it to make it all interchangeable? I can't wait for the plasma and fist to make it to the general public but I dread finding out what the price will be for them.

 

 

A good start! JB weld and a dremel tool are effectively mandatory when building one of these things!

Add a hairdryer, brass rod and plenty of greenstuff to that list and it's almost complete :)
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@ Capt Carl, It's a model I've waited 30 years to own. I hope you get one too one day!

 

@ Depthcarge12, Honestly a Dremel doesn't really seem needed on this model so far..... I had to break out carpenters files and a power drill!

 

@ Chaotic Eric, I expect pictures! Particulary of magnet arrangements for weapons! My current thinking is bleeding great magnets vertically through the arms, then a locking pin horizontally or more magnets. I was also thinking of a big magnet at the sholder joint. The power fist may not look right at the same angle as the weapons.

 

Brass rods and green stuff will be in the next post!

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Power drill and cheap drill bits for the win! I've been working on my reaver, and pinning has never been so easy. Line your parts up, drill in, reverse your drills drive, back off and leave the bit in :)
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@ Capt Carl, It's a model I've waited 30 years to own. I hope you get one too one day!

@ Depthcarge12, Honestly a Dremel doesn't really seem needed on this model so far..... I had to break out carpenters files and a power drill!

@ Chaotic Eric, I expect pictures! Particulary of magnet arrangements for weapons! My current thinking is bleeding great magnets vertically through the arms, then a locking pin horizontally or more magnets. I was also thinking of a big magnet at the sholder joint. The power fist may not look right at the same angle as the weapons.

Brass rods and green stuff will be in the next post!

I have a small build log over at a Swedish forum but as it's all in Swedish I don't know if it's much help :)

 

I can of course take pics if it'd help your build.

 

For the connecting in the elbows I shamelessly stole Chuffy's idea off of Youtube with brass rods and tubes to make the arms interchangeable. The volcano cannons are well balanced enough that they stay horizontal with just the rods. With the fist my plan is to drill a brass rod into it and a hole in the upper part of the elbow to use as guide if I want it to use a different position than just hanging straight down. As for the shoulders I magnetized them in much the same way as Chuffy as well with wide flat magnets.

 

I didn't bother magnetizing the upper arms into the shoulders as I didn't feel I needed that extra posing it'd provide. I can turn the waist if I need it to aim sideways :)

 

 

Edit; I found a pic I've already taken of the elbows before I put in the brass pipe which the brass rod then runs through to hold up the volcano cannons.

 

Edit 2; while at it, I took a pic of the shoulder arrangement as well.

 

http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo10/EricAstrom/Mobile%20Uploads/F1331398-4D8E-4930-80E8-345EA3E7968E_zpsnzupohzu.jpg

 

http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo10/EricAstrom/Mobile%20Uploads/92A8E57D-EFFB-4080-8156-239671EBBAAA_zpsyrpi02hv.jpg

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Power drill and cheap drill bits for the win! I've been working on my reaver, and pinning has never been so easy. Line your parts up, drill in, reverse your drills drive, back off and leave the bit in smile.png

That is genius jawdrop.gif

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Power drill and cheap drill bits for the win! I've been working on my reaver, and pinning has never been so easy. Line your parts up, drill in, reverse your drills drive, back off and leave the bit in smile.png

That is genius jawdrop.gif

Its what I did by accident to my Warhound's hip joints XD

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@ KBA, sounds good, hopefully they aren't too brittle being cheap ones. I prefer brass rod because it's not brittle.

 

@ Chaotic Eric, I'm thinking of doing similar with 3mm brass tube in the joint and a 2mm pin. Chuffy in the Link from Olis came up with the idea first (well, too my knowledge anyway).

 

@ Firenze, :o I was paranoid doing that. Honestly I think I would prefer a manual hand drill if (When) I do one again. Better control that way.

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@ KBA, sounds good, hopefully they aren't too brittle being cheap ones. I prefer brass rod because it's not brittle.

@ Chaotic Eric, I'm thinking of doing similar with 3mm brass tube in the joint and a 2mm pin. Chuffy in the Link from Olis came up with the idea first (well, too my knowledge anyway).

@ Firenze, ohmy.png I was paranoid doing that. Honestly I think I would prefer a manual hand drill if (When) I do one again. Better control that way.

You can use 3mm rod in a 3mm tube for less play in the joint. I think they usually make the tube 3.1 or 3.2mm even if it says 3mm so the rod will fit.

I spent 3 hours with the airbrush yesterday to basecoat mine and I'm not even done with half of it smile.png

I might add that you'll want to dry-fit the shields on the shins very carefully before painting. I checked mine yesterday and they're not even close to aligning with the four small pins on each leg that you glue in place. They were so out of line that I couldn't even glue the pins in at the angle that made the shields fit. In the end I had to put in a piece of metal wire and pin them to be able to have them at the angle required to make the shields fit.

Oh, you'll want to buy plenty of clamps in different sizes for the torso as well smile.png

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@ KBA, that is a great idea... Dammit, cutting brass is [redatcted by the inquisition].

 

@ ChaoticEric, Cheers for the advice, the tube I have has an internal diamension of 2mm. it should work fine with 2mm.

I'd use rattle cans of a good car primer for the base coat. They have more adhesive properties (read nasty solvents) in them.

The the reaver leg fixings are a bugger, I had hoped the warlord woul improve this. Hopefully the pins should just need a little heat and flex... Mostly...

I think I need another pair of big clamps or two.

 

Tonight Just cleaning hip Pistons and gyros... Only 26 parts...

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