As a new convert to the Ravenspire, I thought I'd do a tutorial on how to paint the Raven Guard Marines. It is suitable for begginers since I don't fancy myself as an amazing painter, but I do have some experience and can get good results.
Please excuse the poor quality of some images... Unfortunately, while preparing this tutorial I did not have my SLR camera with me, so all pictures were taken with my smartphone, and may seem a bit off. But the end result will be photographed properly.
The message to all new painters is: DON'T WORRY ABOUT BEING TOO NEAT, we can always correct errors later on in clever ways and speed up the painting process. Plus, unless you're going for a competition, minor mistakes won't show at arm's length which is where you'll be seeing your minis most of the time anyway.
So, here goes:
It is well worth it to make an initial investment in time and prepare stands for the various bits. I think marines are best painted if one does not glue anything together apart from the legs, torso and arms. The rest are best painted separately, in batches. This will significantly speed up your painting.
I made these custom bases using corks, toothpicks and paperclips. Bits are attached to toothpicks with bluetack, and heads and bolters have been drilled and fixed on paperclips. Always carefully drill boltguns, they look so much nicer with an actual hole in the front.
After a careful treatment of removing mould lines, filing and smoothening out any odds and ends, and spraying with Chaos Black, we mount everything on our custom bases and give every bit a coating of Abbadon Black (not thick!)
I usually add the basing before I undercoat them, but I did not have the materials at hand when I decided I would do this. Well discuss those in the end.
Lets start with the shoulder pads.
I chose to make mine as 3rd company because I simply like how red goes with black and white.
Start by painting the trim a dark red colour, such as mechrite red, mephiston red etc. I did not have one myself so I mixed a lighter red with a dark brown in a ratio of 1 brown : 4 red.
Next, carefully highlight the edges using Evil Sunz Scarlet. This can be done effectively by putting paint on the edge of a brush with thin, long bristles. Don't worry about being too neat, since we can correct errors later.
Next, highlight the top and the edges (both inner and outer) using a strong orange, such as Troll Slayer Orange. It is useful to add a dark grey line along the perimeter (about 2mm on the inside) using Eshin Grey. This will give more character to the pad and make it look less dull.
Now, the decals. I hate how the full tactical decal does not fit properly so I thought I'd make a change. Using a very sharp X-acto knife, carefully take out the middle of the arrow, as shown below. This missing piece will help the decal fit much more smoothly on the curved surface than if the entire decal was in place.
Don't worry about being too neat, since we will use black and white colours bring the arrow up to shape later. It takes some patience to place the transfer on the shoulder pad. I found that using a large brush, like the citadel Wash Brush, works best. Make sure the decal floats and has left the paper and then place the bristles underneath and lift it up. Always make sure the surface you'll be placing it on is already wet. Fiddle carefully and line it up properly:
Before we shape the decal up, it is always a good idea to use some matt varnish to fix it into place. This holds here especially because we've tampered with the decal and it may even have broken up a bit.
Now, using a very thin brush and black and white paints, make the arrow look decent enough to fool the eye from arms length.
They look quite nice all together. Finish the highlights by adding a hint of a bright yellow (e.g. Flash Gitz Yellow) at the edges and at the vert top.
Now, for the other shoulderpad, start by highlighting the edges with Dark Reaper.
Highlight the edges using Thunderhawk Blue. Especially the top, middle and edges.
Add a final highlight of a 50:50 mix of Thunderhawk Blue and Ulthuan Grey, at the very top, and at the edges. Also add the same grey inner perimeter line and make sure its straight correcting with Abbadon Black.
At the moment of writing I'm waiting for the RG decals in the post, so you'll see those in the final pictures.
Lets move on to the "Power - packs". Basecoat the parts shown with Leadbelcher. Once its dry, give them a thorough wash of Nuln Oil and add a second wash of Agrax Earthshade on specific bits that would be more "dirty" eg exhausts.
We then drybrush Ironbreaker and correct any mistakes with Abbadon Black.
Then follow the same highlight procedure as with the shoulder pads on the various edges of the backpacks: Dark Reaper -> Thunderhawk Blue -> 50:50 mix of Thund. Blue and Ulthuan Grey, followed by a tiny highlight of Etherium Blue at the very edges. Correct any mistakes with abbadon black ONLY IN THE END, not after each stage.
Edited by Arbiter7, 15 April 2016 - 03:08 PM.