Emperor's Furor Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 I have an airbrush but I once took it apart to clean it but since then I have to physically pull the pin-shaft out and so it doesn't leave me with much accuracy etc. So I was thinking of getting a new one, a simpler one that will allow me to the do the forgeworld metallic schemes like the Alpha Legion and the new red of the Thousand Sons, does anyone have any suggestions? Edit: I'm in the UK if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_r_parker Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Depending on what you have already (I'm guessing you have some of the required stuff already), I started out with the following - LINK For the price it's not too bad, especially for someone who doesn't want to spend too much initially. For £80 you get two different airbrushes, along with a combined air compressor and tank. I'm sure the airbrushes themselves are pretty low on the quality - but I use them to do exactly what you're planning to do (metallic red, except mine are Word Bearers and not Thousand Sons). Can be a bit fiddly to clean out, and take note when disassembling as the instructions aren't great if you forget how to put them together. I've you've already got the compressor / tank I'm sure there's cheaper ways to get brushes, but for me this was an ideal kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 This video helped me make my airbrush work again. From 11:50 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rexueWTVbv8 Lol ... I know it's for makeup airbrush but it helped me put everything back together correctly!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 I ... And that airbrush kit is what I'm running currently but ebay is £10 cheape. Just make sure you choose the one with a tank!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emperor's Furor Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 This is what I've been using I got it off ebay last year, sorry I can't enlarge the picture :/ http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/160967026641-0-0/s-l140.jpg The airbrush it'self has a gravity chamber that lets it fall into the brush, I think that may be the problem. Edit: It's very similar to this one apart from bits on the bottom right. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/djYAAOSwniRWOHq-/$_57.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Iwata Neo. Cheap, sturdy, and a solid workhorse. :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovemberIX Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I second that Iwata Neo, I have a CN (gravity fed) that I started with. Cleaning is fairly straightforward and simple as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 This is what I've been using I got it off ebay last year, sorry I can't enlarge the picture :/ The airbrush it'self has a gravity chamber that lets it fall into the brush, I think that may be the problem. The problem is not that it's gravity-fed, it's that you got a cheapo Chinese airbrush that's not really up to the job. These are great to learn the anatomy of an airbrush with, and are cheap enough that breaking them doesn't really cost you much. It also sounds to me like you aren't cleaning it either well enough or often enough, and that's why it's all gummed up. Gravity-fed is what you want BTW; suction-fed is the other option, and this is really only suitable for shooting bigger volumes of paint since you need to put a lot of paint in the cup for it to function (indeed, most sprayguns are suction-fed). What you need is decent beginner airbrush from a reputable brand that has the following features: 0.3mm tip (you can do basecoats and general highlights/OSL with this; you will need a finer tip for very small details, but 0.3mm is still big enough for doing a few vehicles as well.). Gravity -fed (you don't need much paint in the cup, so ideal for miniatures) Dual-action trigger (up-down and back-forward to control both the amount of paint released and the amount of air released). I also think you would also benefit from a better compressor; yours is a modest direct-air model, and it has limitations that are not going to help you much (especially when you're learning). I would advise buying one with the following features: A reservoir tank A pressure regulator A moisture trap Enough power to deliver at least 60psi for one airbrush The reservoir tank means that the airflow doesn't "pulse", and this will give you a smooth uninterrupted airstream. It also means that the motor isn't working constantly, which is both quieter and permits longer airbrushing sessions. The moisture trap is pretty self-explanatory, and so is the pressure regulator. Finally (and you may have this already), you really, really, *really* need a cleaning kit! Normally a pot cleaner with a holder, and a bottle of airbrush cleaner. Your airbush should be rinsed/cleaned fairly often during long sessions or between colour changes, and you should make sure that all the important parts are paint-free between painting sessions - regular rinsing means fewer and easer cleans too! You may want to get some Iwata Superlube for it as well (you don't need much, but you need to get something that won't react with your paints). I think you would be looking at around £70-80 for a reasonable air compressor, and around £60-70 for a decent starter airbrush. As you gain skill and experience, you may want to upgrade your airbrush to something fancier; if you get a reasonable compressor though, it should last you for a while. The cleaning stuff may set you back around £30-40. Before you run off to spend £160+ on a new airbrush set-up however, I highly recommend doing some research of your own first. There are lots of airbrush forums, manufacturer help websites, and YouTube videos that explain and demonstrate the different types and features properly. I think you need to understand what you're buying and why so that (1) you don't waste your money, and (2) you buy the airbrush that suits you best. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karden00 Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 I have had three. When I was a kid I had a plastic Testors Aztec airbrush. I was a kid. Didnt take care of it, didnt appreciate what I had, didnt know how to use it, so got very little out of it. 3 years ago I bought a Badger Patriot 105. Worked fine, no real complaints. Wasnt the easiest to clean, and I had A Lot of feedback after a while. Then I learned that, despite how they market it, it is NOT 100% metal!!!! There is a tiny, and I mean tiny, teflon bearing infront of the trigger assembly, but behind the nozzle. Now I have heard that some people never had a problem with this, and perhaps it was the way I was cleaning it, but I found that teflon bearing to be really susceptible to damage, especially when cleaning. It got so bad that the paint would actually flow from the pot, through the body and out the nozzle, even when I applied no pressure to the nozzle whatsoever. I tried ordering a replacement bearing (in fact I ordered three of them, hoping I could fix it and have backups...) but replacing them was almost impossible without applying so much pressure that they just warped and were ruined all over again. After much vexation to a local hobby shop owner, who knew much in the way of airbrushing, he turned me on to..... The Iwata Eclpise HP C Plus. Its a dream. An absolute dream. Cleaning is unimaginably easy and quick. 100%, and I mean 100% metal. I have no complaints. It wasnt cheap, depending on your finances. I got mine for 300 Canadian, although I know from looking online that some places charge quite a bit more for this particular model, so take the time to look around. I realize you are asking for an airbrush for a beginner, and this particular model is not marketed for beginners. However, having gone through several other brushes, I can say with certainty that had I had this from the get go, I would have saved much heartache and frustration. If you have never airbrushed, I cannot tell you how frustrating it can be to spend hours trying to clean it properly, fix air/paint flow problems. If you are heavily into modelling, this is an investment worth making. The great thing is, having worked with other, lesser brushes, I can tell you that even though this one is 'advanced', there is absolutely nothing about it that is any more complicated than other airbrushes. The basic mechanics of use and maintenance are all the same. This one just seems to be the most superior product. Why is it advanced? It has a smaller needle, allowing for finer painting (although this isnt really all that much of a difference) than other Iwata brushes. But if youre into 40k, you know that small and fine detail is what we're all about. I urge you to invest in this brush, it will save you so many headaches, and brushing will be a pleasurable all around experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyberos the Red Wake Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 This is what I've been using I got it off ebay last year, sorry I can't enlarge the picture :/ The airbrush it'self has a gravity chamber that lets it fall into the brush, I think that may be the problem. The problem is not that it's gravity-fed, it's that you got a cheapo Chinese airbrush that's not really up to the job. These are great to learn the anatomy of an airbrush with, and are cheap enough that breaking them doesn't really cost you much. No-name Chinese $20 airbrushes aren't all bad. Some of them are even pretty good, especially if all you need is the basic function of a dual-action airbrush to do things like priming, basecoating, or zenithal. But to be honest, if you're ever going to move beyond basic basecoating, it's better to just buy the typical $100 Iwata Eclipse or Badger Krome. Practically everyone uses these models and they're the best bang for buck and lowest price points (they usually retail for $150-200) for serious airbrushing. Once you go a step above these brushes you get into the advanced $300-500 models that aren't really necessary for most painters. The main draw to buying a branded airbrush is build quality: the threading of the screws, the lightness and smoothness of the dual action trigger, the quality of the finish and metal. It's the same reason a lightweight, $300 bike is a joy to ride compared to lugging around a $90 department store clunker that weighs more than you do, or why a genuine Fender or Gibson will sound better than a knockoff, or why you buy wargaming miniatures and paint instead of plastic army men and craft store fingerpaints. Sure, all the off-brand things work, but do they work well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloody Legionnaire Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 This is what I've been using I got it off ebay last year, sorry I can't enlarge the picture :/ The airbrush it'self has a gravity chamber that lets it fall into the brush, I think that may be the problem. The problem is not that it's gravity-fed, it's that you got a cheapo Chinese airbrush that's not really up to the job. These are great to learn the anatomy of an airbrush with, and are cheap enough that breaking them doesn't really cost you much. No-name Chinese $20 airbrushes aren't all bad. Some of them are even pretty good, especially if all you need is the basic function of a dual-action airbrush to do things like priming, basecoating, or zenithal. But to be honest, if you're ever going to move beyond basic basecoating, it's better to just buy the typical $100 Iwata Eclipse or Badger Krome. Practically everyone uses these models and they're the best bang for buck and lowest price points (they usually retail for $150-200) for serious airbrushing. Once you go a step above these brushes you get into the advanced $300-500 models that aren't really necessary for most painters. The main draw to buying a branded airbrush is build quality: the threading of the screws, the lightness and smoothness of the dual action trigger, the quality of the finish and metal. It's the same reason a lightweight, $300 bike is a joy to ride compared to lugging around a $90 department store clunker that weighs more than you do, or why a genuine Fender or Gibson will sound better than a knockoff, or why you buy wargaming miniatures and paint instead of plastic army men and craft store fingerpaints. Sure, all the off-brand things work, but do they work well? I second this. I started with a masters airbrush that was basically a clone of the Iwata.. and while I don't believe it's a bad airbrush my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS is really better. You can buy a $30 airbrush... and then upgrade to a $100-$150 airbrush later on which puts you at $130-$180 in total. Or just go for the more expensive one off the bat and save on the upgrading. The Iwata and the Badger are two airbrushes that you wont have to upgrade from at all if you don't want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 I think the real problem with some of the very cheap knock-off airbrushes is that you don't really learn how to airbrush with them - there is a lot of finesses and control required, and this usually only comes with practice. However with the cheapo ones, more often than not, you are robbed of the opportunity to really learn this and instead your experience is reduced to simple basecoating and cleaning up of the tool. It's like getting a crappy little poster paint brush for miniature painting. Yes, you can put paint on the model with, and yes, you might be able to do a fair job of it if you are both patient and have a reasonably shaped/sized brush (I did this once, using craft acrylics, for a bet - it was a major chore). Even if you don't jump straight into the finest sable brush money can buy, a decent mid-priced miniatures brush is still light years ahead and will allow you to learn that brush control that is the real key to good painting. Afterall, there is no point in spending a fortune if you don't have the skill and enthusiasm for maximising the potential of the tools/equipment you have purchased. So my conclusion is this: yes, better equipment makes a difference, but past a certain point it won't matter unless have a commensurate skill level. So whilst I would always recommend spending the money on top-quality tools like knives, clippers, and files (which have low skill thresholds to use well, and which will therefore yield better results and value almost immediately), I would suggest taking a more graduated approach with high-price kit like airbrushes. I know a lot of people say "I wish I'd just bought 'X' sooner", but they often forget (or don't realise) how much that cheaper kit taught them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bung Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 But to be honest, if you're ever going to move beyond basic basecoating, it's better to just buy the typical $100 Iwata Eclipse or Badger Krome. Practically everyone uses these models and they're the best bang for buck and lowest price points (they usually retail for $150-200) for serious airbrushing. Once you go a step above these brushes you get into the advanced $300-500 models that aren't really necessary for most painters. Not 100% true, at leas tnot outside US. I use an Evolution and an Infinity from Harder & Steenbeck and most i knew use one of them too (mostly germans and others from mid Europe). As a modeler i would recommend the Silverline or CR Plus models for being solvent proof, so no problems with any thinners. Other thing is you will get replacement parts for a life time. In my eyes it is easy to take apart for cleaning and upgrading. Basic retail price is around 110 -120 € but i would recommend getting a two in one set which will give you a 0.2 and a 0.4 mm muzzle one for bigger stufff and the other for details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Ugh,the Master brand... My first airbrush was a Master. The one thing it was good for was teaching me how to take airbrushes apart. Absolutely awful piece of junk. The best part was how the 5mm needle was too big for the 5mm nozzle that came with the brush. That's just an utter absence of quality control. You may get lucky and get one that works well, but I'd rather pay an extra few bucks for a solid Neo than roll the dice on a Master. Speaking of, I've gotta plug this brush again, because for the price it is quite handy. It is not actually built by Iwata, but sorta licensed by them, and I'd say it holds up the name quite well. I can do zenithal highlighting and all that just fine with it. For just $50 (give or take) you get everything you need. I really wouldn't recommend dropping $500 on something you're just starting out with, especially not if you just want to use it for basic stuff like basecoating those FW minis. Oh, something else to bear in mind- how easily can you find replacement parts in your area? You'll often find that local stores carry only one or two brands of airbrush, which can make finding a replacement needle or whatever very costly and time consuming if you aren't using the same brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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