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So the BaC transfers


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Hey guys I've never used transfers before yesterday but i am the only one who found the word bearers ones especially the blocks of writing ones to be bad?

Bad in what sense ? Bad to apply ? Bad quality ?

 

I've heard that you're supposed to get a better finish with a product called micro-sol but I can't really say much more. I'm sure you can find loads of tips in this very forum :)

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Hey guys I've never used transfers before yesterday but i am the only one who found the word bearers ones especially the blocks of writing ones to be bad?

Bad in what sense ? Bad to apply ? Bad quality ?

 

I've heard that you're supposed to get a better finish with a product called micro-sol but I can't really say much more. I'm sure you can find loads of tips in this very forum :)

To give you a idea of what i mean

I was going to apply one of the blocks of armour writing which you get on the sheet to my contemptor i am pretty sure i did everything right but as i was brushing the water over the transfer it ripped on me luckily i manage to salvage it but i lost a large part of the block in the process. Are the FW ones of a better quality?

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FW ones tend to be thinner. Better quality finish decals tend to be thinner so they conform to the surface easier but rip more easily.

 

I've never brushed water over a transfer. I use a brush to soak the paper of the decal on my palette by placing a soaked brush next to the decal but never on it. After 30 seconds the decal is loose and i use a brush to carefully lift it.

 

I also use microsol and mircoset. One I brush onto the area before applying the transfer. The other I very carefully dab with a very soft brush over the applied decal. Both significantly soften the transfer itself and once applied even just looking at it funny before it has fully cured will cause issues.

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I like them. :)

gallery_27176_9395_185012.jpg

I use Tamiya Mr. Mark Softer and they apply quite well... I guess you may want to apply setter and softer before and after applying the decal and maybe use cotton buds to take away the extra liquid.

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I haven't used a brush to soften decals; cut them out as closely as possible around the image, then soak in water until the transfer slides off the backer.  Tweezers are very important.

 

I've always found this video by Awesome Paintjob to be exemplary for applying decals.  

 

Decal application starts at 5:20 in.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mltbxDRt7uw

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If you have not gloss coated your minis before applying the decals you're going to have a hard time and the transfer/decals will indeed have a propensity to tear and rip. On a rough surface the decals stick... with a gloss coat you should find the decals a little more workable. After they have dried going back over the model with a coat of flat varnish will help better protect and seal the decals. 

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If you have not gloss coated your minis before applying the decals you're going to have a hard time and the transfer/decals will indeed have a propensity to tear and rip. On a rough surface the decals stick... with a gloss coat you should find the decals a little more workable. After they have dried going back over the model with a coat of flat varnish will help better protect and seal the decals.

I did that the transfer ripped when i was trying to get it off the blue sheet
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Personally for transfers, I ignore all the usual advice.

I cut out the transfer, pinch it between finger and thumb, hold it into my water pot for about 30 seconds, then slide it off onto a finger tip. From my finger tip, I gently apply it to the dry model surface.

Once in place, apply water to help reposition it, then coat with Lahiman medium.


Very rarely tear them this way, and I'm a ham fisted fool!

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