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Guardians of the Covenant (WIP) [Darkn3ss' tale]


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#151
BlackTriton

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I have found this to be true first hand (the clogging of details that is).  I used spray primer from a rattle can for years, and was shocked at how much better even a cheap air brush can lay down a thin even coat of primer.  I have moved to almost exclusively using primer sprayed from an air brush.  I know that is not an option for everyone though.

 

You can get good results from a spray can though, just be careful about overdoing it.

 

 

indeed, less is more with spray can.

or so I have learn.

 

I dosent mater if the primer is not equal, better keep it thin. 

 

 


Edited by BlackTriton, 21 September 2016 - 01:42 AM.


#152
Darkn3ssF4lls

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I used it once, its pretty much an equivalent to ledbelcher from citadel range.

I guess its what I would use to basecoat Guardian of the covenant quickly.

although, spray paint is the best way to clog details, be carefull!

 

I have found this to be true first hand (the clogging of details that is).  I used spray primer from a rattle can for years, and was shocked at how much better even a cheap air brush can lay down a thin even coat of primer.  I have moved to almost exclusively using primer sprayed from an air brush.  I know that is not an option for everyone though.

 

You can get good results from a spray can though, just be careful about overdoing it.

 

 

 

I used it once, its pretty much an equivalent to ledbelcher from citadel range.

I guess its what I would use to basecoat Guardian of the covenant quickly.

although, spray paint is the best way to clog details, be carefull!

 

 

I've had good results so far [for a novice], I'm no where near the level of buying a really expensive equipment to paint the models. Not to mention it would need to be 110 - 240. I've actually only started to experience clogging here at the end of my first can, it wont spray properly and then you shake and try to get it to cover and it then finally sprays what it has left haha.


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#153
Malcifer

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When you are done spraying for a while, turn the can upside down and spry until the paint is out of the nozzle (usually not more than a second).  This will keep your can of primer working until the last drop.  Just be careful not to spray something by accident when clearing the nozzle (I have).

 

Edit: Fixing punctuation.


Edited by Malcifer, 21 September 2016 - 01:47 AM.

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#154
Major_Gilbear

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I use spray primer, and my models turn out fine.

Aside from the usual advice on when/how to spray, I woyld suggest that you avoid hobby primers and use automotive primers instead. Much better, much thinner, less fickle to get a good result from. Cheaper too! :)
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#155
Darkn3ssF4lls

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I use spray primer, and my models turn out fine.

Aside from the usual advice on when/how to spray, I woyld suggest that you avoid hobby primers and use automotive primers instead. Much better, much thinner, less fickle to get a good result from. Cheaper too! smile.png

 

What are we talking like 10 bucks cheaper and then you have to find one that matches your tint?


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#156
Major_Gilbear

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Well, the they are primers - and you are supposed to paint over them. Normally when I use a primer (usually grey), I leave no primer visible when I'm done painting the model. Therefore matching tint or whatever is irrelevant really.

 

If you're using a coloured primer to double up as your basecoat, then you don't really need to match the paints either; just use a suitable colour. So for silver, you can either use a bright silver and then wash it down, or a darker silver and highlight up. However, you will probably need to do two thing careful passes to avoid missing any spots or having a patchy basecoat (since the primer is doing both).

 

If you buy a big brand name of automotive primer, it's trivially easy to just buy more of the same when you run out.

 

The idea that your paints and primer need to somehow match is... A pretty artificial "problem" really. ph34r.png


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#157
Darkn3ssF4lls

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Well, the they are primers - and you are supposed to paint over them. Normally when I use a primer (usually grey), I leave no primer visible when I'm done painting the model. Therefore matching tint or whatever is irrelevant really.

 

If you're using a coloured primer to double up as your basecoat, then you don't really need to match the paints either; just use a suitable colour. So for silver, you can either use a bright silver and then wash it down, or a darker silver and highlight up. However, you will probably need to do two thing careful passes to avoid missing any spots or having a patchy basecoat (since the primer is doing both).

 

If you buy a big brand name of automotive primer, it's trivially easy to just buy more of the same when you run out.

 

The idea that your paints and primer need to somehow match is... A pretty artificial "problem" really. ph34r.png

 

 

Haha ok, yea learn something new every day smile.png i do like the black especially when i'll have a big 1st and second company with lots of black lol.

 

 

So i want to try this but am a bit intimidated about mucking it up. So should I be worried about trying to exacto that chain fist off so i can magnatize the model ? It would have the added benifit of not having to paint the terminator symbol through his Aquila on his chest haha. 

 

xzj9xp7m.jpg

 

Thinking about doing it right at the base of the torso and the shoulder.


Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls, 21 September 2016 - 07:40 PM.

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#158
FlamingDeth

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It's typically more trouble than its worth to magnetize snap fit models, and its usually a good idea to have at least one chain fist in a terminator squad anyways.
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#159
Darkn3ssF4lls

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It's typically more trouble than its worth to magnetize snap fit models, and its usually a good idea to have at least one chain fist in a terminator squad anyways.

 

Doh ok, so I should basically paint the back separate from the front then put them together with superglue?


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#160
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Up to you. The terminators don't have any bits really crossing over their bodies so it doesn't really complicate anything to have them assembled first.
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#161
Darkn3ssF4lls

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Up to you. The terminators don't have any bits really crossing over their bodies so it doesn't really complicate anything to have them assembled first.

 

These DV mini's have had tons of things that get covered up when you put them together, in the case of this guy his whole shoulder is covered up by a thing on the front of the torso. There was something similar with the Sergeant for the Basic Marines that I had to have his torso separate or i wouldn't be able to get to one of his shoulders.


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#162
Chaplain Grey Raven

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I agree with the Cardinal, Terminators are usually safe to assemble completely before assembly. The only exception would be with Heavy Weapons (those thighs become hard to reach then)


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#163
Darkn3ssF4lls

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Up to you. The terminators don't have any bits really crossing over their bodies so it doesn't really complicate anything to have them assembled first.

 

 



 



Up to you. The terminators don't have any bits really crossing over their bodies so it doesn't really complicate anything to have them assembled first.

 

These DV mini's have had tons of things that get covered up when you put them together, in the case of this guy his whole shoulder is covered up by a thing on the front of the torso. There was something similar with the Sergeant for the Basic Marines that I had to have his torso separate or i wouldn't be able to get to one of his shoulders.

 

 

 



I agree with the Cardinal, Terminators are usually safe to assemble completely before assembly. The only exception would be with Heavy Weapons (those thighs become hard to reach then)

 

 

This is example of the trouble area i am referring to, i just barley put it on there but it would be flush when its fully attached. So i'll take it back off and paint them separately haha. 

 

6o5hlQqm.jpg


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#164
Chaplain Grey Raven

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That's a minor issue, to be honest. I painted the shoulder without regard for the winged shield. Then I painted the shield with a bit more caution. It's easier to paint carefully for 5 minutes than to keep the mini apart for the sake of a single spot.


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#165
Major_Gilbear

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If it bothers you, just cut the left arm where it meets the body, glue the torso to the front, and put pins in the arms - this lets you keep the arms (and shoulders) separate for painting.

 

I personally don't think the wing covers the shoulder too badly, but if you want to check, whilst it's dry-fit assembled just get your brush without any paint on it and try it out - see what you think.


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#166
Darkn3ssF4lls

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I see what your saying, I guess it doesn't matter what the back of the wing looks like for TT grade. [If i can call my stuff that tongue.png]

 

Tried what you said Major, no way to get it in there unless your using a flat like really really fine brush.


Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls, 21 September 2016 - 09:15 PM.

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#167
FlamingDeth

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It might just be my predilection for painting second hand miniatures that are already assembled but I would hardly notice that winged shield. It's why you have troopers carrying giant guns cover two thirds of their chestplate that things get dicey.

Edited by CardinalVirtue, 21 September 2016 - 10:16 PM.

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#168
Darkn3ssF4lls

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It might just be my predilection for painting second hand miniatures that are already assembled but I would hardly notice that winged shield. It's why you have troopers carrying giant guns cover two thirds of their chestplate that things get dicey.


Hehe may be simple for some but defiently not the guy who can't even paint a line on the pads and not get the pad !

 

Results of Day 1 on the Terminators

 

ByqOE2Om.jpg


Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls, 22 September 2016 - 06:17 PM.

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#169
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A rhinozorback joins the fight 

 

4mDkTKzl.jpg


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#170
Malcifer

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If you are careful about what parts you glue in place this could be a Razorback or a Rhino depending on what you need on the day.


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#171
Darkn3ssF4lls

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If you are careful about what parts you glue in place this could be a Razorback or a Rhino depending on what you need on the day.

 

Aye thats the plan :/ lol! Got to watch some videos on that to make sure i get it right. 


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#172
Malcifer

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Really it is just the big doors on the top and perhaps the hatches.  Everything else is the same.  Fortunately, the Razorback comes with all the parts to make either.  You can go even one step further.  As long as you don't permanently glue in the side doors you could eventually use this for a Predator as well.  I glued some large flat magnets into the door recesses and now I can put on either the Rhino doors or the Predator sponsons.  A little looking around on ebay and you will eventually find the Predator sprews needed.  Just a thought.


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#173
Darkn3ssF4lls

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Really it is just the big doors on the top and perhaps the hatches.  Everything else is the same.  Fortunately, the Razorback comes with all the parts to make either.  You can go even one step further.  As long as you don't permanently glue in the side doors you could eventually use this for a Predator as well.  I glued some large flat magnets into the door recesses and now I can put on either the Rhino doors or the Predator sponsons.  A little looking around on ebay and you will eventually find the Predator sprews needed.  Just a thought.

 

aha good to know, i just need my drill bits haha


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#174
Chaplain Grey Raven

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There isn't really much to be carefull about. Just refrain from glueing the following stuff:

- Top square hatch

- Razorback turret

- The 2 individual hatches up top.

 

It all fits snugly. So as long as you don't perform summersaults with the chassis (like a certain Tartaros Terminator), you'll be fine.

 

Malcifer's sugestion for the hatches on the side is good, but I wouldn't bother. If you want the pieces for a predator, you'd have to buy the whole kit anyway.


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#175
Darkn3ssF4lls

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There isn't really much to be carefull about. Just refrain from glueing the following stuff:

- Top square hatch

- Razorback turret

- The 2 individual hatches up top.

 

It all fits snugly. So as long as you don't perform summersaults with the chassis (like a certain Tartaros Terminator), you'll be fine.

 

Malcifer's sugestion for the hatches on the side is good, but I wouldn't bother. If you want the pieces for a predator, you'd have to buy the whole kit anyway.

 

Couldn't one just buy the bits for the guns? or is the chasis bigger?


Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls, 16 October 2016 - 06:27 PM.

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