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Guardians of the Covenant (WIP) [Darkn3ss' tale]


Darkn3ssF4lls

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Oh well, you could if you want to.

 

You'll need Rhino's/razorback with infantry. You'll probably need plenty of them. So I wouldn't bother with your first Rhino, it makes the initial build more complex than is needed.

The chance that you'll use a predator without transport for your guys is slim, and usually a deathsentence for your guys. So frankly, you'll probably not use a predator (yet).

Eventually you'll buy more Rhino's, and you will get used to building them. Then I would consider pimping the rides.

You could buy the bits seperate, but it's probably not worth the buy, since you can just buy the complete kit for an additional potential Rhino and some cool bits you'll only get from the kit.

 

Long story short: It's your first, and probably not your last, Rhino. Keep it simple.

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Oh well, you could if you want to.

 

You'll need Rhino's/razorback with infantry. You'll probably need plenty of them. So I wouldn't bother with your first Rhino, it makes the initial build more complex than is needed.

The chance that you'll use a predator without transport for your guys is slim, and usually a deathsentence for your guys. So frankly, you'll probably not use a predator (yet).

Eventually you'll buy more Rhino's, and you will get used to building them. Then I would consider pimping the rides.

You could buy the bits seperate, but it's probably not worth the buy, since you can just buy the complete kit for an additional potential Rhino and some cool bits you'll only get from the kit.

 

Long story short: It's your first, and probably not your last, Rhino. Keep it simple.

 

This is true, the guys are lazy and can't run really fast. They need to check their fitness regime :)

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Yeah, that sounds good.  400 is the coarsest I use.  I like to use sanding sponges like the ones Tamiya makes.  When it comes to sanding the lower the number the coarser the material.  The higher numbers are fine enough that you won't see scratches on your models.

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Yeah, that sounds good.  400 is the coarsest I use.  I like to use sanding sponges like the ones Tamiya makes.  When it comes to sanding the lower the number the coarser the material.  The higher numbers are fine enough that you won't see scratches on your models.

 

Awesome i purchased some new tools :) should be able to dig in this week on the next set of models as well as start working on some home grown terrain.

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I think they're lovely models... but too expensive for me personally considering that I already have about fifty RW bikes.

If you're just looking to get 6-10 for a Black Knight squad or such then it's not so bad cost-wise, but committing to doing a bigger Ravenwing force out of just those? Oof!

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I'll let you judge.

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p546/blacktriton1/20160821_200714_zpsxpqzqvox.jpg

 

 

Thats glorious

 

I think they're lovely models... but too expensive for me personally considering that I already have about fifty RW bikes.

If you're just looking to get 6-10 for a Black Knight squad or such then it's not so bad cost-wise, but committing to doing a bigger Ravenwing force out of just those? Oof!

 

Ah i can see your point, maybe keep them for the knights or the veteran squads 

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls
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Were thouse ravenwing items from a upgrade sprue?

 

Sadly my glue did not get ordered for some reason and wont be here till next month, so super glue it is.

 

http://i.imgur.com/W7mmciil.jpg

 

 

 

I'll let you judge.

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p546/blacktriton1/20160821_200714_zpsxpqzqvox.jpg

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Those extra parts are from the Ravenwing Command Squad kit. :smile.:

Yep!

If the outrider squadron wasen't expensive enough, You really need to buy the Black Knight box for all the sweet Ravenwing bits.

I intend to model them a bit further before painting, I want them to be the star of the army once done!

 

you should check out brother Disruptor_fe404 work here

Edited by BlackTriton
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So two issues i experienced last night. 

 

1 - I decided to just start putting everyone together so that i could have a bunch of grays to play with ! yea i'm that guy, so on two models for some reason they would not fit snugly together [DV Set guys] my Captain Balthazar and the Tactical Sergeant. Is the only way to fix that gap to get some of this " " green stuff and put it in that whole smoothing it out ?

 

2 - I decided that since I have a pin vice and drill bits now i would start drilling the barrels of my guys. Terminators check, bikers check, plasma check, tactical bolters 5:7 check 2 one for user error and the other ? now have a curved bullet shooting bolt gun. These are the DV guys, so its snap fit, again is my only option to put a small small amount of the "" green stuff there and try and remold the barrel or to cut it completely off ?

 

another question:

 

The rhino doors, is the only way to keep them closed A) Glue them  or :cool.: find a place for a magnet ? Specifically i'm referring to the rear hatch and the side hatches. The rear one seems like it may loosen over time but the ones on the side don't even stow properly. They have the teeth at the end for some reason, unless i have it reversed which is totally possible too. 

 

Yup, that's what you get for working on things at such an hour :P, good thing i hadn't glued anything i was just putting it together to see what it would look like haha. 

 

 

Those extra parts are from the Ravenwing Command Squad kit. :smile.:

Yep!

If the outrider squadron wasen't expensive enough, You really need to buy the Black Knight box for all the sweet Ravenwing bits.

I intend to model them a bit further before painting, I want them to be the star of the army once done!

 

you should check out brother Disruptor_fe404 work here

 

 

simply beautiful 

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls
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Hey yall still looking for help on those questions. Adding another one to the mix, how does one take the power sword off here without destroying the detail? I thought about taking it off at the robe area but then the power cord will not have any kinda levels on it on that side as it was inside the robe. 

http://i.imgur.com/hzXAj0am.jpg  http://i.imgur.com/mKmUwdCm.jpg

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls
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Firstly, why remove the cable? The gun arm has the cable too, and could represent anything from power to data/targeting/feedback.

 

Secondly, what are you looking to do conversion-wise? Sometimes it's neater to just replace the whole arm.

 

 

Essentially the back of the robe is on that arm it needs to be on the body. 

 

Than the arms plan is to be swapable for all the weapons 

 

IE

SS TH

LC's

 

the usual

 

I'm also debating if i should get the actual deathwing helmet for him vice the two options that came with him. 

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls
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Something like this major? How do you get the lines of the hose on the other side? or were you saying that any weapon on fhat arm will have a hose so it will sit nicely 

 

http://i.imgur.com/xAQlcNO.jpg?1

 

I should take this symbol off right? That's a Ultra Marines flair or did every legion have that to start?

 

http://i.imgur.com/SUaXgNT.jpg?1

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls
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The iron laurel is a general space marine symbol, but if you'd rather have something else there it should be easy enough to replace.

 

Thanks :), is there a handy chart for knowing whats  "SM" and whats say a chapter specific icon ?  Like We have the sword of the lion, the space wolfs have their pelts, blood angels have their teardrops of blood etc.

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Something like this major? How do you get the lines of the hose on the other side? or were you saying that any weapon on fhat arm will have a hose so it will sit nicely

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking of.

 

The ribbing on the back hose where it touches the cape doesn't matter, as the hose will still rest on the cape in the same place when you attach the arm. Other arms that you will attach will likely have different hoses (that come fully moulded if they have them), and as long as they don't interfere with the model it doesn't matter if they look different.

 

Hopefully that makes sense? :)

 

 

Thanks :smile.:, is there a handy chart for knowing whats  "SM" and whats say a chapter specific icon ?  Like We have the sword of the lion, the space wolfs have their pelts, blood angels have their teardrops of blood etc.

 

All Space marine Legions originally had (nominally) the same structure, and used the same ranks and insignia. Over time as the Legions fought in the Great Crusade, and as the Primarchs were gradually found, and as different homeworlds began to contribute new recruits to the Legions, different traditions and iconography/titles/ranks/organisation began to creep into the various Legions. After the Horus Heresy, Roboute Guilliman of the Ultramarines decided that the Space Marine Legions should be broken down into Chapters so that no individual could wield the force of a full Legion again, and to lessen the opportunity for so many Marines to ever turn at once and threaten the Imperium again. Each of these new Chapters was to follow the the guidance laid down by Guilliman in his book, the Codex Astartes. As the biggest surviving Legion, the Ultramarines broke down into more than half of the total of all the newly-formed Chapters. Of course, many of these (and indeed, many other Legions' Chapters too) adopted the ranks and dictates of the Codex and combined them (over the ten thousand years since the Heresy) with their own traditions to arrive at the Chapters we have "today" in the 41st Millennium. Other Chapters simply adapted the customs and traditions of their parent Legion instead, and likewise evolved these over time.

 

Therefore, the use of iconography like laurels to denote veterancy and command is quite widespread, much like the Iron Halo or the Iron Skull are. There's a nice summary of more common Space Marine honour badges here on Lexicanum. The main thing to remember is that some ranks and honorifics (and indeed armour or relics that may accompany the position) are often very ancient, and it is therefore not necessarily uncommon to see some of these honour badges even in Chapters that may not otherwise have the tradition of using those particular ones.

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Well its not great but I ran into magnet troubles. Always learning things, he stays together but definitely should get some of that green stuff in the future to fill in cavities then drill into them for instances like this. 

 

http://i.imgur.com/iehNcNhm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/YzHQeGPm.jpg

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls
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Yeah, filling the hollow parts before you put a pun or magnet in is a good idea. You can use peices of sprue or a cheaper and harder putty like Milliput for cavity-filling. :-)

 

Do you have a green stuff you would recommend?

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Green stuff is a two-part epoxy putty manufactured by a company called Polyneric Systems Inc under the brand name Kneadatite Duro.

 

I usually comes as a one or three foot long ribbon, but is also available in a pack containing two separate sticks of yellow and blue. This is the "best" format to buy it in IMO.

 

GW re-brand and re-sell Kneadatite in 6"(?) packs at a hefty markup.

 

A popular alternative to greenstuff is a putty called ProCreate by Kraftmark. It's quite similar, but is grey and some people find it easier to work with.

 

For simple filling of hollow areas, I would recommend Milliput Standard Yellow Grey, as I mentioned earlier. It feels much more like clay, is much cheaper, and cures much harder which makes more suitable for drilling and pinning into.

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