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My armor still functions - A Flesh Tearers' hobby log


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"We are Angels no more."

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/d2d7fl.jpg

 

 

Welcome to my hobby log which I will be using as motivation as I get back into the hobby and try out some new painting techniques. The grim, dark 40k universe is home to many different painting styles, but most of us started out following the painting styles of GW's 'Eavy Metal team. Models were painted in pristine condition using edge highlighting and bright colors. This hobby log will not follow this painting style...

 

I've recently been obsessed with finding new painting styles that aim to breath realism into my models and show off the wear and tear that comes from fighting on the battlefield. Inevitably, I found myself in the world of military modeling where weathering is way more prevalent than in most wargaming communities. I also purchased Forge World's Model Masterclass books which are full of wonderful techniques and examples. Inspiration has also come from this forum where other artists have embraced the grim-dark painting style I'm striving for. Spex, Brother-Captain Arkhan, and poom are but a few of these examples. I blame you gentlemen for inspiring me to start this thread.

 

I'd like this thread to teach others as I stumble through learning new techniques. So hopefully I will be able to add some simple tutorials between posts of finished models. Fair warning, many of these techniques will require additional equipment to the standard brush and Citadel paint range. I plan to utilize an airbrush, oil paints, and weathering powders plus anything else new I find. The scope of this project is to paint in a different way than I've done before though, so I can't promise that I'll be posting frequently or will be able to finish a full army. However, I will start will my Flesh Tearer army before branching out to other projects I'd like to get to. 

 

To begin, here's a test model I experimented on. I want to add even more weathering effects to future projects and really push the line of "too much weathering". Please enjoy.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/sow6W7.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/pl1dMM.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/FBagDF.jpg

 

 

Edited by terminatorAM
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To get into weathering even more, I'm going to start with a bigger canvas and try to use as many techniques as possible from FW Model Masterclass without overdoing it too much. A Rhino should do. I added a few extra bits to make it look like it is well used on the battlefield. Here are some pics before I even finish priming it:

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/R4PwTL.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/YE2aGy.jpg

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Looking forwards to this. Will we get break downs of the weathering??

 

Yes! I plan to break down each weathering step into a mini tutorial as I progress.

 

 

Death to edge highlights!! Dirt for the dirt god, grime for the grime throne!!

 

This should be the new topic name, love it!

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Painting Tutorial: Black

 

 

Before the model can be weathered, I need to paint the base colors. I decided I wanted to painted the Flesh Tearers tank primarily black with some dark red sections painted second. This will give me a chance to use airbrush techniques for difficult colors as I'm still pretty new and need the practice.

 

 

Inspiration/Research

 

Painting black sucks. This is about the only consistent thing I've read online. There are very diverse methods and tutorials out there on how to paint black with very few similarities. That's because black is unlike any other color in that it can't be shaded. This means that the base color is as dark as you can go and any highlights are going to stand out way more than with any other color. With this challenge in mind, I've deduced that most internet hobbyists seem to fall into one of two camps when it comes to highlighting black: 

 

1 - Keep most of the surface pure black and only highlight the extreme edges (AKA: edge highlighting)

or

2 - Highlight a larger surface area with grey and build up the lighter highlights. The drawback being that the model may end up looking more grey than black in the end, but this is an acceptable consequence for adding more depth to the model.

 

I'm choosing to go with option #2 and hope that further weathering steps can cover up the grey look. This color theory reminded me of some amazing Black Templars I saw awhile back on this forum and I managed to dig up the topic where madmatt discusses his method for painting black in his Barbarossa Crusade Army Project. I will be attempting a similar look using my airbrush.

 

 

Paints Used

 

Vallejo Game Air: Black, Stonewall Grey, and Khaki

GW: Nuln Oil wash

 

Step 1

 

Remember how I said painting black sucks? Well it equally sucks to photograph, so please bear with me and my terrible phone camera pics as I try to explain what I did here.

 

I mixed Black, Stonewall Grey, and Khaki in a 4:1:1 ratio with only a small bit a airbrush thinner as these paints come pre-thinned. Pulling back on the airbrush trigger ever so slightly allows a thin mist of paint to come out in a narrow line. I carefully traced this line around edges of the model that could be seen from above. Meaning that edges where shadows formed did not receive a highlight such as those edges at the bottom of the tank where the tracks connect.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/KaH1sH.jpg

 

Step 2

 

It's hard to tell by the above photo, but the greyish highlights stand out like a sore thumb and don't really blend into the black areas as much as I'd like them to. So I did a bit of damage control and sprayed pure Nuln Oil from the airbrush in a line, similar to Step 1, joining the grey line and the black of the armour panels.

 

Airbrushing with a wash is very similar to brush painting in that the wash tends to pool in crevices and create tide marks if too much of the liquid is used. The key to this step is to be VERY gentle when squeezing the airbrush trigger or else too mush wash comes out and little droplets get blown around by the air pressure. You can see this happened on the lower part of the front exhaust tower. Otherwise, I think the wash did a great job of blending the highlight in with the black.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/HdQTLD.jpg 

Step 3

 

Time for a bit of brush work. Tonal Variation, as described by Forge World's Model Masterclass vol.2, is a, "stippling and rolling action with the brush" which is used to drybrush/highlight edges of the model and create some different painting patterns than that created by the airbrush highlights.

 

I mixed the Black, Stonewall Grey, and Khaki together again, but this time will a lighter ratio of 2:1:1. Using a small drybrush, I dabbed the majority of the paint off on a paper towel before touching the brush to the model. This technique brightened up panel corners and details just a bit without strictly highlighting the edges themselves. It also was a great technique to cover up some of the over-zealous nuil oil spots.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/STsffl.jpg

 

I tried to capture as many details as possible in the above pictures, but these steps are so subtle that I don't think they turned out very well. The big part is that black is just so hard to photograph without too many shadows or light reflexes. I took this picture below after all the above steps were completed and I think this angle works much better for tutorial purposes. Hopefully you can make out some of the slight color variations in it.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/ET3fz0.jpg

 

Let me know if there are any comments/questions on this tutorial and I will incorporate feedback into new step-by-step posts. Hope you enjoy!

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  • 1 month later...

I finished up the rhino and was able to try a bunch of new weathering techniques on it. This was definitely a learning experience and I didn't take WIP pictures for each stage, but I did get a few. So here's quick breakdown of the weathering stages I tried out.

 

Black colors completed

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/ET3fz0.jpg

 

After the black was painted, I masked off parts to paint Gory Red (Vallejo Game Air). I also painted up the other details and glued on the tracks.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/i39iLf.jpg

 

I started chipping the red painted areas by applying Black paint with a sponge.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/bumaRb.jpg

 

Next, the whole surface was chipped with a mix of Black and Mournfang Brown. Again, this was done with a sponge to appear random.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/MPsWAp.jpg

 

The chipping effects was completed with the larger chips getting a highlight with Steel Legion Drab. The lighlight was only done on the lower part of the chip.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/Io5eKj.jpg

 

I'd forgotten to apply decals at this point, but they would have been better to add before the chipping work started. The model the received a coat of gloss varnish which protects the underlying layers of paint and gives a slippery surface for washes. Besides the normal washes in the creases, I also mixed up a rust mix.

 

The rust was a mix of Orange Rust weather powder, Burnt Sienna oil paint, and White Spirit (thinner). I loaded this onto a brush and flicked it at the model using a toothpick. This flicking method splattered the mix on the model randomly. I then airbrushed pure White Spirit on the splattered areas to defuse the effect some. 

 

At that point, I realized I WAY overdid the rust effects so attempted to clean it up with a brush and more White Spirit. This created more orange streaks than I was going for. Here's what it looks like after the clean up. Next time I will do much less.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/GSS9XG.jpg

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The final weathering stages helped hide the rust a bit. Weathering powders were diluted with White Spirit and splattered on the model. After the White Spirit dried, the weathering powders were blended into streaks for a muddy effect.

 

Here are shots of the final model in it's filthy glory.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/g2YBaZ.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/QQeejm.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/GOoSXQ.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/8LyvmX.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/KbmOQA.jpg

 

This model was a lot of fun and I tried out a lot of techniques that were new to me, but have actually been around for awhile in the scale model community. Lots of inspiration there. 

 

I did learn a lot and will be taking these learnings into account for the next project:

 

  • Weathering effects show up really well, almost too well, on dark colors
  • Oil paint and weather powders can add a lot of realism to a model, but are very easy to over-do
  • Process is hugely important. I found myself redoing a lot of steps and doing steps that weren't in the best order, so I'll be writing down a step-by-step guide to each layer next time.
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Man, your work is great! Many thanks to you!!! Because today I will receive my first Razorback in collection, and will definitely use techniques desctribed above for painting it. I'm not sure about Space Marines... may be I should look for more examples and more followers of this style. I'm going to start painting Knights of blood, so there will be much metallic paints... I chose a painting scheme, but after reading this topic I've realized that want to search for alternatives, may be in painting medieval knights, I don't know)) But you definitely inspired me for searching.

As for the rhino - I'm very impressed and looking forward to see more of your works. Now it's +1 in followers and fans of this topic)

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm so happy I could provide some inspiration. All your comments are hugely encouraging to me!

 

I just finished building a 5 man tactical squad which is now on deck to be painted and weathered similar to the rhino. It might be a bit tricky to replicate all the weathering techniques on infantry models, but I've got a plan in my head and I just need to bring it to reality. More pictures to come as I progress.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/e91cHA.jpg

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Wow!!! Can't wait to see them finished... and to see the process, of course! I became a fan of this way of painting, and now experimenting with weathering and damage too. So just glad to hear you continuing this topic, and hope to find some new techniques for myself.

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I'm eager to see how these turn out. I must admit, I prefer using POP goes the Monkey's printed Flesh Tearers shoulderpads over Games Workshops.

 

I haven't actually heard of these until now. They look pretty nice, so they might be an addition to a new squad some day after I finish using all the etched brass I have.

 

 

Wow!!! Can't wait to see them finished... and to see the process, of course! I became a fan of this way of painting, and now experimenting with weathering and damage too. So just glad to hear you continuing this topic, and hope to find some new techniques for myself.

 

Hopefully this post will help with technique ideas :biggrin.:

..................................................................................................................................

 

Oil Dot Filter Technique

 

Today I wanted to share a quick tutorial for a technique I've seen used by many scale modelers. I did not invent this technique, so if anyone is interested in seeing other examples of it's use, just search for "oil dot filter" and a few good examples should pop up. I've never seen this method used on Space Marines before, only on tanks and airplanes, so this is a bit of an experiment

 

Painting Goal: I want to give the power armor's paint a well-worn look resulting from sun damage, fading, and the build-up general battlefield grime. This technique will defuse the bright red highlights a bit and also fade the black some. Please note that the goal isn't to paint grime streaks or caked on dirt with this technique, those effects will come from other methods. This is really meant to be a base look that later weathering techniques can build upon.

 

Tools and Colors: Oil paints are required for this method, acrylics don't have the right consistency. The colors really depend on the base color scheme, but here's what I've used:

 

Burnt Umber

Portland Grey Deep

Yellow Ochre

Napthol Scarlet (used on red only)

Torrit Grey (this apparently is exclusively from Gamblin and made from recycled pigments that were caught in their air filter, it's a tan-ish grey)

 

White spirit (or other oil pint thinner) and a couple of cheap brushes are also used. 

 

Step 1: Put blobs of oil paint on a scrap piece of cardboard. This sucks out the oiliness from the oil paint so it won't be very glossy.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/Kyp8v7.jpg

 

Step 2: Spray the model with a few layers of matt varnish. This seals in previous colors so they won't be damaged by the oil colors and thinner. I have airbrushed the base layers and highlights on my model, but this technique should work just as well on models painted with a brush. Do all these steps BEFORE and shading is done with washes.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/TDy7lW.jpg

 

Step 3: Paint very small dots of oil paint on the surfaces which will be affected. I used a mix of the different colors in no particular order which will give this a random look. You can always add more dots later if you want to increase the effect, but a little bit goes a long way, so don't overdo it when you first start.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/ysQ3a2.jpg

 

Step 4: Hang in there with me here guys, I realize the pok a dot look is probably causing some weird looks, but it gets better soon. Take a larger brush and dip it in white spirit then dab it off on a paper towel. Get it as dry as you can, it's better to be barely damp than wet. Then take the brush and "blend" the oil paint in downward stokes. The paint should smear and make streaks. Keep blending it in the same direction until the streaks are barely visible. Just don't blend it too much so that the paint is wiped away entirely. And try not to mix the different colors too much as we want to have variations to the final look. At this point the paint should have a bit of a foggy look.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/QilZRT.jpg

 

And that's about it! From here you can use more white spirit to clean up areas that are too faded looking or add more oil dots and repeat the process to make it grimier. The oil paint takes a very long time to dry, so let the model sit for at least 24 hours before moving on to any other steps.

 

It doesn't look like much, but when you compare the model to another which hasn't received oil paint yet, it's easier to see how the filter technique has subtly changed the paint job. Subtly is key here as we still want some of the highlight to come through and be able to see some of the different oil colors separately.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/s94PlC.jpg

 

Hope you liked this tutorial! I still have a lot more steps until the model is finished, but I'll add a completed picture to this post once it's done. 

 

Feel free to ask any questions.

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Very nice, i can clearly see how this is used to show weathering from the sun ,environment etc :thumbsup:  very subtle but realistic.. but hey that's what scale modellers do don't they :laugh.: 

Can't wait to see more!.

 

Cheers, Mithril 

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  • 1 month later...

M41.998

Armageddon, Gaius Point

2nd Tactical Squad, 5th Company Flesh Tearers

Under command of Sergeant Glos

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/tYdkvV.jpg

 

 

Sergeant Glos was promoted in the field after 2nd Squad's previous sergeant fell to the black rage. His squad still operated at 50% strength, as did most units of the chapter throughout the Armageddon campaign. His first command was to be at the front of the Flesh Tearers' assault on the Ork artillery guns of Warlord Rukglum positioned outside the settlement of Gaius Point. Few chapter records remain accounting of the engagement. Official reports indicate that the entire squad had blacked-out the event. Currently under further Inquisitional review...

 

Upon withdrawal from the Armageddon battle-zone, the 2nd Squad of the 5th Company was incorporated with under-strength elements of the 2nd Company. They are currently bound for the Cryptus System.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/Yx5pQS.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/RPkxLa.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/924/7coniV.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/t8pI61.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/923/ZRnpSo.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/921/nf5ncV.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/UmgTQw.jpg

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