Jolemai Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 A quick search for Fairy Power Spray on here stipulates that the old formula was great (which I can also attest to) and the new one is naff when it comes to stripping models. However, this seems to be hearsay; the old "Yeah, I've heard it's not as good/naff/awful/etc" I was wondering if anyone had tried the new/current formula out for themselves and had any first hand experience with it on plastic/metal/resin (and all the sub-types). Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorFish Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Never tried the old one, but the new one wasn't much good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Desultor Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Never tried the old one, but the new one wasn't much good. Likewise, which is why I switched to IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and have never looked back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stercus Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 As I have a massive bottle of dettol under the sink, I've not tried fairy spray yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 As I have a massive bottle of dettol under the sink, I've not tried fairy spray yet. The thing about Dettol (brown) is that you need to rinse with the stuff, too, unless you fancy cleaning a model from gloopy blobs with a toothpick. The old Power Spray acted differently, meaning you could actually rinse with water. And it didn't abrade your skin. Or smell. Yeah, the old Fairy stuff was great. Not tried the new stuff, though. It's shame if it has actually changed to a less effective formula (to us, at least). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aspecti Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 The new formula is useless for removing paint, I did a test comparing it with the old one. Currently I'm using a product intended for removing paint from brushes, it works much better than the old fairy power spray on plastic models and is cheaper too. It's biodegradable, safe and almost odorless. I'm sure you can find a comparable product wherever you live, this is the one I'm using in Finland: https://www.tikkurila.fi/kotimaalarit/tuotteet/pensselipesu edit: found their English website: https://www.tikkurila.com/decorative_paints/products/product_presentations/tikkurila_cleaning_detergents/pensselipesu_-_tool_cleaner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Cheers all, guess I won't test it out after all. In the event that I can't get hold of Aspecti's suggestion, is there another UK alternative that isn't nasty? Don't really want to do Dettol or worse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 There's a product called Biostrip20 which is apparently very effective and can be used on both plastic and metal models - you get good results in about an hour. I seem to remember that older plastic models and bases didn't fare so well, but user results were mixed. On newer (harder/denser?) plastic models, it seemed to work fine. No used it personally, but if you search around, I remember seeing it reviewed (with photos of results) on The Warhammer Forum and Dakka. It's other advantage is that it is pretty safe to use, and can even be washed down the sink without harm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Aye, remember asking about that before. If it eats old plastic then it's not good for me :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Well I use Dot4 Clutch & Brake fluid from Halfords - it's generally decent, but stuff needs a long soak. It also softens old plastics a bit, but after a rinse they re-harden in a few days. Getting rid of it means taking it to a garage and asking nicely, but it will last for so many strips that I doubt it will be an issue. It's reasonably cheap too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glomshark Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Cheers all, guess I won't test it out after all. In the event that I can't get hold of Aspecti's suggestion, is there another UK alternative that isn't nasty? Don't really want to do Dettol or worse... Personally, I use 99% isopropryl alcohol, it's general rubbing alcohol barely smells, and it's great for taking paint of any surface. Forgeworld resins are o.k, but some resin do warp when immersed in it for more than a day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Desultor Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Cheers all, guess I won't test it out after all. In the event that I can't get hold of Aspecti's suggestion, is there another UK alternative that isn't nasty? Don't really want to do Dettol or worse... Personally, I use 99% isopropryl alcohol, it's general rubbing alcohol barely smells, and it's great for taking paint of any surface. Forgeworld resins are o.k, but some resin do warp when immersed in it for more than a day Through trial and error, I've found that I only need to soak the part to be stripped for an hour in IPA and the paint comes right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Cheers all, guess I won't test it out after all. In the event that I can't get hold of Aspecti's suggestion, is there another UK alternative that isn't nasty? Don't really want to do Dettol or worse... Personally, I use 99% isopropryl alcohol, it's general rubbing alcohol barely smells, and it's great for taking paint of any surface. Forgeworld resins are o.k, but some resin do warp when immersed in it for more than a day I used 100% pharmaceutical-grade isopropyl alcohol to degrease some FW, and after a few days' soak, the resin went extremely rubbery and the smaller pieces became very fragile. Although the resin did eventually firm again (took a couple of months...), it discoloured a lot. My guess is that resin has been degraded by the isopropyl, hence the discolouration. Also, as FW does outsource a lot of the resin-casting, variation in the exact resin could also be an influencing factor in determining how often this might happen. Likewise, shorter soaks in the alcohol might be okay, but considering the cost of FW products, I personally won't be using it again on resin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Desultor Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Likewise, shorter soaks in the alcohol might be okay, but considering the cost of FW products, I personally won't be using it again on resin.I recently stripped my entire Warlord Titan back to bare resin using 99% IPA. Again, in my personal experience, leaving it to soak for no longer than an hour ensured that not a single piece of resin was damaged or softened.Considering the cost of a Warlord from FW, you can rest assured that I did plenty of test runs on "cheaper" resin models before tackling the Titan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Where are you folks commercially getting IPA from and I'm guessing you require a lot of it rather than simply "spraying it on and leaving it"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Desultor Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I've always get mine from Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00WRJZXJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. And yes you can't simply spray it on - you need to leave the item to be stripped fully submerged (be aware of length of soaking!). How long 5 litres will last you will depend on the size and quantity of models. As a point of reference I used 1 and half containers (7 or so litres) to fully strip an entire Warlord including extra weapons. I managed about 3 instances of soaking and stripping parts before needing to change the IPA in the tub. However I must advise you to take the necessary precautions when using IPA. Wear goggles, gloves and a suitable mask - please check the requirements for the correct mask yourself as I do not want to make a recommendation that is not suitable - that's one responsibility I don't want!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I buy it from eBay, and get it in 5L containers. With most (all?) of these stripping products, complete immersion of the model (or parts) is usually the best and most effective way. Even the old Fairy Powerspray was best if you cut the bottle open and poured it into a container. With soaking in suitable tub or jar, make sure you put a lid on it too. This helps with knocks, bumps, things dropping in by accident, evaporation/fumes, etc. Edit: I try and get "Pharmaceutical" grade or similar, and aim for 99.7% or better purity. This helps to avoid any nasty surprises (like having small amounts of Benzene or whatever in your recycled solvent). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackrat Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The new formula is useless for removing paint, I did a test comparing it with the old one. Currently I'm using a product intended for removing paint from brushes, it works much better than the old fairy power spray on plastic models and is cheaper too. It's biodegradable, safe and almost odorless. I'm sure you can find a comparable product wherever you live, this is the one I'm using in Finland: https://www.tikkurila.fi/kotimaalarit/tuotteet/pensselipesu edit: found their English website: https://www.tikkurila.com/decorative_paints/products/product_presentations/tikkurila_cleaning_detergents/pensselipesu_-_tool_cleaner Dude, as another finn, thank you. I've been cursing for the lack of good stripper ever since I tried the new Fairy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aspecti Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Cool, happy to help. I bought the stuff from Stark but I hear you can get it from Prisma too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 I appreciate the IPA and Dettol tips but that's not really a route I want to go down as leaving models in a bath of solvent isn't going to work for me. Are there really no other over-the-counter sprays on the market? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Think I might have to give Biostrip 20 a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Think I might have to give Biostrip 20 a try. Just checked Amazon.co.uk and they have it in a 750 ml spray bottle for £10 (and Prime delivery for those who are signed up for it). Very interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Desultor Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Let us know how you get on with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I'm looking for a mass stripping agents as I've worked through 12 litres of dettol and managed to decanter most of it to reuse multiple times. However the smell is annoying the wife and an unhappy wife means no new toys for me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claws and Effect Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Full strength Simple Green worked pretty well for metal and plastic for me. Haven't tried it on resin yet. The cost of FW models means I'm very careful to get it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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