Problems with White Scar

[Daimyo-Phaeron Lenoch]

Has anybody ever had problems with the White Scar layer paint? I had a pot for a while that i used, but it got very thick and...almost looked like really thick shaving cream. Watering it down didn't really help, so i tossed it. I got a new pot, but I'm scared to open it, becuase when I look at it it almost looks like a rough iceberg in the center surrounded by very light water.

 

Should I return it and swap it for Ceramite, or will very vigorous shaking keep that from happening with the new (still unopened) pot?

 

I admit I use this for covering large swathes of a model (arms and legs most of the time) and not to highlight, but I doubt that has anything to do with the consistancy of the paint.  

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

My Ceramite White and White Scar also dried out, but I had the first generation 2012 pots which did not snap shut tightly and just sort of gummed shut. You can revive the paint by pouring in water, or better yet, acrylic medium like Vallejo Thinner Medium or Lahmian Medium, but my solution was to simply switch to a different brand, especially one in a dropper bottle. That way it would never dry out. It's hard to find a good white, but the best results I've had were Vallejo Model Air white. It takes a few more layers to cover but it gives smooth results, compared to other whites that cover fast but too thickly, or also take many layers only to end up chalky or chunky.

 

Try pouring some water in the pot and stirring it for a good 5 minutes, adding more water as you go before giving up on a pot. I've revived a lot of Citadel paints this way, even though it's never a happy feeling.

[Stoic Raptor]

I had the same problem with a couple jars of Ceramite White.  One I was able to save with a little flow improver, but the other one was ruined.  The manager at the GW store gave us a new pot, but he said he's seen this before.

[Major_Gilbear]

I think this is (to some extent) a problem with most white paints. Even if mine don't dry out as you describe, they all seem to go "gritty" after a while, and past a certain point cannot be resuscitated.

 

So far I've had best results with P3 Morrow White (transferred to a dropper bottle) and Vallejo Air Colour White. I have a friend who gets great results from Vallejo Model Colour White.

 

However, it's worth noting that if you use a wet palette, the Vallejo Air paints do get very runny!

[Halandaar]

Yeah, I have this issue with Ceramite White as well (and Pallid Wych Flesh actually) regardless of how new the pot is.

[Stoic Raptor]

I wouldn't use air paints with a wet palette, they're already thin enough for brush painting.  I am generally gravitating back to Privateer paints if the match is close, because of the liquid pigments.

[Major_Gilbear]

I wouldn't use air paints with a wet palette, they're already thin enough for brush painting.  I am generally gravitating back to Privateer paints if the match is close, because of the liquid pigments.

 

The wet palette is more about keeping paint wet rather than thinning it. Airbrush paints on them are usually not too bad, but some really do spread a lot.

 

I love P3 paints (they're the ones I mostly use), but some of the colours can separate when thinned or put on a wet palette. The warm brown and mid-greys are especially prone to this (Bloodstone and Greatcoat Grey are somewhat notorious for it!), but a quick swirl with your brush soon gets the colour even again.

[Magos Takatus]

I'll add that I've had this problem with White Scar and Pallid Wych Flesh as well and in the case of White Scar, more than once. I find that paint gets crammed into the top of the bottle and it requires quite a lot of digging to remove it. If the pot of paint doesn't seal the paint starts to dry pretty quickly.

[Race Bannon]

P3 has been a very refreshing alternative to ... anything else :tu:

[deathspectersgt7]

Have had about the same issue but have rescued with water . Have used the same pot on about 90 Marines .