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Miliput? Opinions, suggestions, uses etc.


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Sawsomestuffcalled miliputty at hobbylobby.. the name rung a bell.appears to serve the same purpose as greenstuff, pretty cheap by comparison.

 

Anybody used it? As per topic title. Opinions, suggestions, uses of miliput.

 

Even if it's not the best product, it's ease of availavilityand price seam good,so I hope y'all have good words...

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It's only marginally similar to GS but I personally don't care for it. It's extremely messy to mix up and it's really sticky. It's water soluble, so clean up isn't awful, but you have to make sure you get every single spot of that cleaned up, especially on your sculpting tools, because it dries as hard as stone. I have seen people mix it with GS to get a more durable and sandable version, and even tried it myself, but since I have a habit of tearing off the GS work and sculpting it again if I don't like it, even the hybrid milliput mix will bond to the figure and be practically impossible to remove.

 

I will say that it does make for a great gap filler because it sands so well, and you can even add a little water to it to thin it down and brush it into the gap.

 

Some love it, some hate it, and I would suggest you try it out to see what you think.

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It's only marginally similar to GS but I personally don't care for it. It's extremely messy to mix up and it's really sticky. It's water soluble, so clean up isn't awful, but you have to make sure you get every single spot of that cleaned up, especially on your sculpting tools, because it dries as hard as stone. I have seen people mix it with GS to get a more durable and sandable version, and even tried it myself, but since I have a habit of tearing off the GS work and sculpting it again if I don't like it, even the hybrid milliput mix will bond to the figure and be practically impossible to remove.

 

I will say that it does make for a great gap filler because it sands so well, and you can even add a little water to it to thin it down and brush it into the gap.

 

Some love it, some hate it, and I would suggest you try it out to see what you think.

 

This ^

 

I am by no means a pro sculptor, but I'll generally use both for different applications. Magic Sculpt is a great option that provides a "best of both" solutions in my opinion.

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Once you start using it you'll get what BCK means about how it works; it's not quite the same as Green Stuff, but now that I've used both I'll always keep a stock of both. I've just recently found it really good for making texture on bases, which I saw here.

 

As has been said, you can get it to behave differently by keeping it dry or adding water.

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I love milliput, I went through 10 packs in the last 6 months. It's easy to use and like a rock when dry. I've used it to build up modelbases, make sandbag fortifications, sculpting backsides for True-scale marines and more. It's also usefull to weight down model bases, perfect for those long banner bearers. BCK makes great points about the sculpting, but for large, crude jobs that need to last a long while, Milliput does the job.

 

Edit: You can consider is a more handy version of clay. It acts more or less in the same manner.

 

Here are some examples of sandbags and model bases.

 

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p553/GreyRavenC/DSCN3155_zpsekdjxhf4.jpg

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p553/GreyRavenC/DSCN3156_zpsllt8zeyv.jpg

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It's a learning curve, and I've still not mastered it.  I mix it with GS to get it more sandable, but it's a mess because it's water soluble and, as said, is hard to get it to stick to what you're working on.

 

I can definitely see the benefits, but I definitely struggled early on and still haven't quite got the hang of it, especially with regard to mixing ratios and how to work with it so it doesn't get all slimy.

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as said, is hard to get it to stick to what you're working on.

 

 

What? From what I've seen, Milliput practically bonds with the material it's placed on. I dropped my house with sandbags on the floor, and the roof was the only thing that was still intact.

The mess with water can be partially avoided by using vaseline while sculpting. With the exception for filling in gaps, I haven't used that much water while working with milliput.

 

In the end it's all down to preferences, both Greenstuff and Milliput have their own benefits. Give it a try Canadian_F_H, and you'll see what it's worth. I always thought Milliput was pleasantly cheap, so you shouldn't suffer too much if it's not to your liking.

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Oh god, Milliput. I hate the stuff with a passion. It's weirdly crumbly, awkward to sculpt and I can never quite get it to cure for some reason. Like, no matter how well I mix it, it never hardens.

 

I much prefer Apoxie Sculpt myself. Hard, sandable and heavy like Miliput but much easier to work with. Mix it 50/50 with GS and you have IMO the perfect putty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Milliput is widely available here in the UK, and I love it so much, I usually buy it in trade boxes of 10 packs at a time! :D

 

The key thing to remember with Milliput is that using it is like working with clay.

 

A few tricks to keep in mind when using it:

 

- Always measure the two components out first, and then knead each component on its own until smooth and soft first. This makes getting a smooth supple mix of both components much easier.

 

- You can use water and silicone tools to avoid it sticking too much. It's water-soluble when uncured, so be careful to not make it too wet.

 

- For simpler applications, you can use some bathroom talc to avoid it sticking to the table or tools. Once it's cured, simply wash it in some warm water and soap, and leave to dry.

 

- After you've applied it to your project in a simple/rough way, leave it an hour or so to start curing, and then run it under a warm tap. This will let you clean up any mess and get a super-smooth finish. After you let it dry for a few minutes, you'll find that it's still soft enough to continue to sculpt with for the more detailed stuff, and you're now starting form a cleaned-up semi-cured base (which makes it much easier).

 

- Once fully cured (which might take 2-3 days even though it's normally hard after about 8 hours), it can be sanded, sawn, drilled, etc. It's very hard and dense, and you can sand and polish up to an absolutely smooth surface if you need to.

 

- If it's a bit crumbly, and the pre-kneading didn't work well enough, then try dipping it in warm water as you knead it. This will add water to the putty until its soft enough. Don't add too much water though, as it can cause issues.

 

- For simple shapes (especially those with hard edges) consider sculpting a close-enough shape, and then carving/sanding down after its cured fully. For any sanding, I recommend wet-sanding to minimise the dust produced.

 

- You can mix it with other putties to get different properties. I mixed 1/2 MP with 1/2 GS, and although it took days to fully cure, it was as hard as stone when it finally did! Most users recommend adding about 1/4 MP to 3/4 GS to firm the GS up, and I feel this is about right as well. With these sorts of putty mixes, I would always pre-knead each component first, then mix each putty separately, then mix the two putties together. This ensures the most even mix, and prevents any problems later on like improperly-mixed lumps that will never cure.

 

For miniatures, I usually use it for bases and basing, and for gap-filling on areas that must be smooth (like amour panels, cloaks, and the seam down the middle of Space Marine bikes where the two halves join). Smooth areas always benefit from some very careful wet sanding using 600 grit paper once the MP is fully cured.

 

Once you get familiar with using MP, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it! :P

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