Jolemai Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I know there's a guide for this in one of the Masterclass books but it's with an airbrush and sadly I don't have one of these. Any ideas how to do it with a brush? (I'd ask Duncan/Warhammer TV but I'm pretty sure their request backlog is bigger than my painting backlog...) walter h 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sockwithaticket Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 It's a tough paint scheme, the smooth transitions between turquoise and jade green would at least require plenty of layering at the transition points, but blending would be best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dosjetka Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I'm pretty sure you could achieve a decent result with drybrushing and then a glaze or two to make the transition smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) Somewhere I've got a video of power weapons(?) going through five stages of blue that using Lahmian Medium to transition it. Same principle? Oh, and why oh why do I give myself a hard scheme to do considering I paint slower than Charlo? :facepalm: Edited June 19, 2017 by Jolemai Brother Aiwass 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slips Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 If you could find some green and blue paints that were pretty similar in hue, those might be able to help build up the transitions and make them smoother? I'd personally probably go the drybrush route and just find a rather medium tone'd blue-green to use as a base and either drybrush up into the brighter blue or down into the darker greens depending on the location then glaze the whole thing with an allover Blue with selective green glazes over where the colours meet maybe? Pic for reference. Honestly, I'd go about it the same way technique wise that I did my own Wraithknights but that might end up looking too porous for your own tastes. Prot 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 If you say so. Meanwhile, if I can get anywhere near that white I'll be laughing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slips Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I mean, you've got Sock in this thread who does some pretty amazing whites so you have someone to ask right here :p Kierdale 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sockwithaticket Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Somewhere I've got a video of power weapons(?) going through five stages of blue that using Lahmian Medium to transition it. Same principle? Oh, and why oh why do I give myself a hard scheme to do considering I paint slower than Charlo? You wouldn't necessarily need to use the medium, water does just fine for layering. Without having seen the video I wouldn't want to say yes it's definitely the same principle, but if it's 5 steps of slightly different shades of the same blue then it sounds about right. Dry brush and glaze could work okay on the infantry, but on bigger stuff I reckon it'll be less effective if the aim is something like the IA art I mean, you've got Sock in this thread who does some pretty amazing whites so you have someone to ask right here Flatterer. I'm pretty sure Jol's asked me about that in the past actually, I can always reel off the recipe again though if it's wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 Yup and I wouldn't mind hearing it again (and again, and again, and again...) but my main concern is getting the armour done. As for that video, it's this one (which I think I've got linked in the BA video thread) sockwithaticket 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sockwithaticket Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Yeah that's it. To be honest, I think he's overcomplicated it there with too many blues, but thin layers and gradual progression is the key. A lot of the layering I do involves just tweaking my mid-tone with a shadow colour (often a touch of black, but sometimes something else like a dark blue or green) and a highlight (typically an off white, but sometimes a light bone colour.Some companies like Reaper Master Series will helpfully sell you a triad of colours that sort out the shadow-mid-highlight for you straight out of the bottle (my purity seals are the Khaki triad, most of the others are used on non-marine stuff). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrystalSeer Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 That color scheme is similar to what I use as the base for my harlequins. I did it by grabbing army painter sprays and using them similar to airbrush. Similar effect but only costs $30-50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartali Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I know there's a guide for this in one of the Masterclass books but it's with an airbrush and sadly I don't have one of these. Any ideas how to do it with a brush? (I'd ask Duncan/Warhammer TV but I'm pretty sure their request backlog is bigger than my painting backlog...) I'd definitely recommend investing in an airbrush and compressor at some point in the future. You can pick up unbranded chinese airbrush/compressor kits for around £80 on ebay. I bought one five years ago and still going strong. AGPO 1 Back to top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 I'm sure it will happen at some point, just not in the near (or at this rate, even distant...) future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Without trying it out myself, I'd say base coat in the green color and then get some of the Tamiya clear acrylic blue and test out how it looks going over the green. Thin it down the closer you get the edges and maybe even get some clear acrylic green to mix with the blue near the edges to help with the transition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Chaplain Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Without trying it out myself, I'd say base coat in the green color and then get some of the Tamiya clear acrylic blue and test out how it looks going over the green. Thin it down the closer you get the edges and maybe even get some clear acrylic green to mix with the blue near the edges to help with the transition. I use tamiya clears all the time for gemstones- and I'm worried that even if he were to thin them out, the end result would be too shiny/glossy for a Mymearea paint scheme. Then again, that's what test minis are for I suppose. Just a thought, but a gradation of washes might help to blend the transition points- using varying levels of water to wash mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 The gloss can easily be taken care of with a dull varnish coat after everything is painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GawFang Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Without an airbrush I would forget the gradient and just go with turquoise. On larger models trying to do those blends in a consistent way over a whole army would be a nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aothaine Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Boom! I'm pretty sure this is what you're trying to achieve yes? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dq7sLhTwko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain_Krash Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Its a great technique but I think while painting 50+ elder with this technique you would have a very inconsistent looking army... Krash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aothaine Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Its a great technique but I think while painting 50+ elder with this technique you would have a very inconsistent looking army... Krash Maybe.. but with a bit of practice you can get it real close. Anyone inspecting the minis that closely should only be a judge for painting comps imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 Not entirely convinced I'm skilled enough sadly. Cheers though :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anamnesis Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) A bit late to the party but since i'm painting mymeara now, i just chim in. I would suggest painting the main body in the greenish/emerald base and just paint the shoulder pad in turquoise even drybrush a bit the top with turquoise if you want too Shade with a blue wash on the full mini and your good I even highlight all in the same colour Cheers, Anamnesis Edit: result visible in my instagramm Edited July 6, 2017 by Anamnesis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiritual Liege Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Drybrushing and then glazing would be my method of choice too since I don't own an airbrush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 I'd suggest two brush or wet blending. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolemai Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Honestly, I think wet blending is beyond me - at least for consistency. So it looks like I'll be taking the drybrush and glazing route...? Any tips for that? Also, the scheme used in Imperial Armour says "it was based on Hawk Turquiose (Sotek Green) which fades down to Orkish Hide (Waaagh! Flesh) and Ice blue (Lothern blue). Doesn't that seem too green? Also, how would I apply that? in gradient from top to bottom, or? (Infantry, not vehicles at this point) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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