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Painting Mymeara

Craftworld Mymeara

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16 replies to this topic

#1
Jolemai

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I know there's a guide for this in one of the Masterclass books but it's with an airbrush and sadly I don't have one of these.

 

Any ideas how to do it with a brush? (I'd ask Duncan/Warhammer TV but I'm pretty sure their request backlog is bigger than my painting backlog...)



#2
sockwithaticket

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It's a tough paint scheme, the smooth transitions between turquoise and jade green would at least require plenty of layering at the transition points, but blending would be best.


My Crimson Tears and occasionally Inquisition/Deathwatch WIP thread (most recent page):
http://www.bolterand...updated/page-24

Deathwatch Hall of Honour thread:
http://www.bolterand...1215-hawk-lord/
My non-40k stuff (mainly Malifaux and Fantasy solo figures):
http://www.dakkadakk...ist/610818.page

 

Completed vows: LPC '13, ETL '13, ETL '14, ETL '15
 


#3
Chaplain Dosjetka

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I'm pretty sure you could achieve a decent result with drybrushing and then a glaze or two to make the transition smoother.


TB1asu4.jpg

 

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#4
Jolemai

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Somewhere I've got a video of power weapons(?) going through five stages of blue that using Lahmian Medium to transition it. Same principle?

 

Oh, and why oh why do I give myself a hard scheme to do considering I paint slower than Charlo? :facepalm:


Edited by Jolemai, 19 June 2017 - 08:52 PM.

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#5
Slips

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If you could find some green and blue paints that were pretty similar in hue, those might be able to help build up the transitions and make them smoother?

 

I'd personally probably go the drybrush route and just find a rather medium tone'd blue-green to use as a base and either drybrush up into the brighter blue or down into the darker greens depending on the location then glaze the whole thing with an allover Blue with selective green glazes over where the colours meet maybe?

 

Pic for reference.

99560104072_SkathachWraithknightInfernoL

 

Honestly, I'd go about it the same way technique wise that I did my own Wraithknights but that might end up looking too porous for your own tastes.


Pl5uLJ.pnggallery_45765_11559_42998.png gallery_48988_10980_7442.png

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#6
Jolemai

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If you say so. Meanwhile, if I can get anywhere near that white I'll be laughing!



#7
Slips

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I mean, you've got Sock in this thread who does some pretty amazing whites so you have someone to ask right here :P


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#8
sockwithaticket

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Somewhere I've got a video of power weapons(?) going through five stages of blue that using Lahmian Medium to transition it. Same principle?

 

Oh, and why oh why do I give myself a hard scheme to do considering I paint slower than Charlo? facepalm.png

You wouldn't necessarily need to use the medium, water does just fine for layering. Without having seen the video I wouldn't want to say yes it's definitely the same principle, but if it's 5 steps of slightly different shades of the same blue then it sounds about right. Dry brush and glaze could work okay on the infantry, but on bigger stuff I reckon it'll be less effective if the aim is something like the IA art

 

I mean, you've got Sock in this thread who does some pretty amazing whites so you have someone to ask right here tongue.png

Flatterer. I'm pretty sure Jol's asked me about that in the past actually, I can always reel off the recipe again though if it's wanted.


My Crimson Tears and occasionally Inquisition/Deathwatch WIP thread (most recent page):
http://www.bolterand...updated/page-24

Deathwatch Hall of Honour thread:
http://www.bolterand...1215-hawk-lord/
My non-40k stuff (mainly Malifaux and Fantasy solo figures):
http://www.dakkadakk...ist/610818.page

 

Completed vows: LPC '13, ETL '13, ETL '14, ETL '15
 


#9
Jolemai

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Yup and I wouldn't mind hearing it again (and again, and again, and again...) but my main concern is getting the armour done.

 

 As for that video, it's this one (which I think I've got linked in the BA video thread)

 


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#10
sockwithaticket

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Yeah that's it. To be honest, I think he's overcomplicated it there with too many blues, but thin layers and gradual progression is the key. A lot of the layering I do involves just tweaking my mid-tone with a shadow colour (often a touch of black, but sometimes something else like a dark blue or green) and a highlight (typically an off white, but sometimes a light bone colour.

Some companies like Reaper Master Series will helpfully sell you a triad of colours that sort out the shadow-mid-highlight for you straight out of the bottle (my purity seals are the Khaki triad, most of the others are used on non-marine stuff).


My Crimson Tears and occasionally Inquisition/Deathwatch WIP thread (most recent page):
http://www.bolterand...updated/page-24

Deathwatch Hall of Honour thread:
http://www.bolterand...1215-hawk-lord/
My non-40k stuff (mainly Malifaux and Fantasy solo figures):
http://www.dakkadakk...ist/610818.page

 

Completed vows: LPC '13, ETL '13, ETL '14, ETL '15
 


#11
CrystalSeer

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That color scheme is similar to what I use as the base for my harlequins. I did it by grabbing army painter sprays and using them similar to airbrush. Similar effect but only costs $30-50.



#12
Bartali

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I know there's a guide for this in one of the Masterclass books but it's with an airbrush and sadly I don't have one of these.

 

Any ideas how to do it with a brush? (I'd ask Duncan/Warhammer TV but I'm pretty sure their request backlog is bigger than my painting backlog...)

 

I'd definitely recommend investing in an airbrush and compressor at some point in the future. You can pick up unbranded chinese airbrush/compressor kits for around £80 on ebay. I bought one five years ago and still going strong.



#13
Jolemai

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I'm sure it will happen at some point, just not in the near (or at this rate, even distant...) future.



#14
Brother Chaplain Kage

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Without trying it out myself, I'd say base coat in the green color and then get some of the Tamiya clear acrylic blue and test out how it looks going over the green. Thin it down the closer you get the edges and maybe even get some clear acrylic green to mix with the blue near the edges to help with the transition.


dVIGLrG.pngFPVd6je.pngQiZFXmD.png

 

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#15
The_Chaplain

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Without trying it out myself, I'd say base coat in the green color and then get some of the Tamiya clear acrylic blue and test out how it looks going over the green. Thin it down the closer you get the edges and maybe even get some clear acrylic green to mix with the blue near the edges to help with the transition.

 

I use tamiya clears all the time for gemstones- and I'm worried that even if he were to thin them out, the end result would be too shiny/glossy for a Mymearea paint scheme.  Then again, that's what test minis are for I suppose.

 

Just a thought, but a gradation of washes might help to blend the transition points- using varying levels of water to wash mix.  


Cactus, on 04 Mar 2013 - 13:10, said:

The_Chaplain hath spoken so here endeth the debate! 


Check out my space marine DIY, The Confessors here

gallery_29004_6198_9307.png Crusade-of-Wrath-Banner_zpskditgcqh.gifgallery_48988_6285_7306.pnggallery_48988_6285_1776.jpggallery_48988_6285_6092.pngsml_gallery_29004_10691_2146.pngcatg2.pnggallery_45765_11565_4862.pngETL_2016_Medal_01_Custos_Fidei02.gif


#16
Brother Chaplain Kage

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The gloss can easily be taken care of with a dull varnish coat after everything is painted.


dVIGLrG.pngFPVd6je.pngQiZFXmD.png

 

WTT Dark Imperium Death Guard for Primaris. PM me if interested.


#17
GawFang

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Without an airbrush I would forget the gradient and just go with turquoise. On larger models trying to do those blends in a consistent way over a whole army would be a nightmare.






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