dread05 Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) I was trying to swap a head in one of my space marine models (unpainted) the other day and I think I had a bad grip on it cause the purity seal on the shoulder pad was kinda bent. No cracks are visible on the plastic, but there is a thin white line on the seal where it was bent, which I suspect is prone to breaking. Is there a way to harden it a bit? I dont want to swap the shoulder pad cause its a rather nice one, and also I'm afraid I'll cause more damage than fixing it. I have half a mind just to spray them and start painting without doing anything, but probably there is something better I can do. Edited July 11, 2017 by dread05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikhalLeNoir Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Either you do nothing about it or you could try and support the structure with green stuff. Just take a small portion and carefully attach it from the opposite side. Then smooth it out and finishedi\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dread05 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Proper green stuff or the liquid? Never used either before. Do they harden enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grotsmasha Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 If there's no crack, then you're quite safe to leave it be :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikhalLeNoir Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) Not the liquid.the nornal should help. You could add some greystuff to the mix. It hardens better then or the other sculpting putty which name i can't remember. Edited July 11, 2017 by MikhalLeNoir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dread05 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 If there's no crack, then you're quite safe to leave it be In my mind, the undercoat spray and the layers of paint will somewhat act like a hardener themselves, but I might be saying whatever at this point :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 The white line is plastic being stressed and with something that thin it is much more prone to breaking, and for something the size of a purity seal there's not much you can do to shore it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magos Takatus Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Would it be possible to fix another purity seal either on top of it or underneath to shore it up without it looking silly? Clusters of purity seals on models are not uncommon and if it looks okay it might protect the damaged one more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Truckin Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 You can try thin layers of plastic cement like Tamaya Extra thin Plastic Cement actually work like a bit of a weld. It slightly melts melt the plastic together. I would just apply a few light coats on the part to "weld" any stress cracks back together. No pressure should be needed just use the brush applicator to paint on a little bit of the glue. I also use this technique to smooth over rough bits from removing mold lines etc. Other than pinning the piece or adding more structure to it as others have suggested - I don't think there is much else you can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
de Selby Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Something you might try is dipping the piece in boiling water and seeing if the white weak point goes away spontaneously. I used to do this to soften and re-pose parts on plastic tyranids. These days GW uses a harder plastic and they don't soften enough to re-pose, but the heat might be enough to allow any stresses in the plastic to relax back to normal and even 'unbend'. Shouldn't do any harm so long as you don't apply any force while it's softened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dread05 Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks for the replies! I ended up spraying it as it is. It seems fine tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloody Legionnaire Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Proper green stuff or the liquid? Never used either before. Do they harden enough? The only thing Liquid Green Stuff and Green Stuff share is the name. Green Stuff is resin and Liquid Green Stuff is model putty.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Not sure what you mean by green stuff being resin because it's an epoxy putty. Also, Liquid Green Stuff is an abomination and you shouldn't use it in place of a real modeling putty that's actually sandable (Tamiya, Squadron, etc) instead of coming apart like Liquid GS does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
de Selby Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Just for the record I tried out the boiling water trick on a bit of bent sprue, the whiteness disappeared and it unbent pretty nicely. So bear it in mind for next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloody Legionnaire Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) Not sure what you mean by green stuff being resin because it's an epoxy putty. Also, Liquid Green Stuff is an abomination and you shouldn't use it in place of a real modeling putty that's actually sandable (Tamiya, Squadron, etc) instead of coming apart like Liquid GS does. Maybe I miss typed. Does Green Stuff not consist of a resin and a hardener? Regardless, my point was they are not the same material so their names are misleading. I have not noticed that much of a difference between tamiya and LGS... maybe I got a bad tube. Edited July 13, 2017 by Bloody Legionnaire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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