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Making rusted Ultramarine armor


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How would you go about making ultramarines armor rusted and corrupted by the warp? The normal drybrush is MacCragge, Nuln then a drybrush with Chronus. I want to make it look rusty, corrupted, and leaky. What technical paints, shades or washes would you recommend? I am testing out unique color schemes for my DG.
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I do very thin glazes of XV-88 and am having increasing success for my death guard (working on a pale green armour that is weathered with this approach).

 

Pick a part of each panel where rust has grown and glaze it over with very thin XV-88, it needs patience but works well. It's an orange-brown ochre that works well for rust. You can also do rust drips by glazing a line from a hole, a corner.

 

Here is a wip picture where only the front apron thing and the ammo belt have been done, just to get an idea.

 

 

 

http://i65.tinypic.com/2mxif7q.jpg

Edited by Isolia
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Rakarth is a base so it's highly pigmented and it should be easy to cover anything with two thin coats :)

 

XV-88 is a base too mind you, so it needs proper thinning before glazing or you'll end up with a desert camo :D

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Ak interactive do a handy 'streaking effects' set for weathering effects. It has a brownish grime, a reddish rust and a greenish winter effects. But you can get equivalents from elsewhere obvs. It's oil based, so you'll need a suitable thinner; odorless thinner is generally nicer to use than turps or white spirit though they all work in a similar fashion. They are more toxic than acrylic paint though, so use a bit of basic care - don't drink it or lick your brush, let small children near it, paint for hours in a sealed box, that sort of thing. It's no worse than house paint, and you're using it small quantities.

 

You'll also want to varnish over your acrylic paint job first to protect it before weathering - gloss or satin will make it a bit easier.

 

The huge advantage of oils for this sort of thing is that they stay 'open' far longer than acrylics yet stay where you put them, and are easily feathered out or cleaned off. Basically, you put on a small dot of oil paint, then draw it out (such as up and down) with a brush damp with thinner. Want a more faded, older looking streak? Do it again. Done! Scale modellers have been doing this for years, because it works really well.

 

Oil washes are also pretty easy. Thin down the oil effect on a palette with thinner a lot more, and use it as a pinwash - you use a brush to touch it to a seam or crevice, and it wicks straight into the join. And to clean up any overspill, just damp a q-tip in thinner and wipe it right off.

 

The final technique is 'chipping'. You can do this one of two ways; for standard marine sized models, take a bit of irregular torn sponge, dab it into dark paint, sponge off the worst onto a paper towel and dab it against the model where you'd expect wear, so it looks like the paint has chipped off. 

 

There's an even nicer looking effect where you use a layer of chipping fluid between dark and light layers, but you really need an airbrush for that - it's also more suitable generally for larger models such as tanks.

 

Here's a good demo of the AK green and rust streaking effects over a chipping fluid + cream base.

 

http://www.massivevoodoo.com/blogfiles/tutorials/ak_weathering/ak_12.jpg

 

 

And here's a video demo'ing using them as a pin wash. Frankly that whole series is a great example of how to do realistic weathering with a range of techniques.

 

maxresdefaultc5778.jpg

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