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Better alternatives to GW plastic glue?


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#26
Prot

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Just FYI I haven’t read the entire thread.

Revell is a good alternative.

I have had a similar problem but I take a lighter to the tip and it always works.

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#27
feuer_faust

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Good points on the thin glue and brush method, might have ro give it a go and see how it works...
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#28
Major_Gilbear

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Like Subtle Discord says, you can also work the stuff with the brush over joins to simply make them disappear. You know those awful old plastic kits like the Catachans and Chaos Marauders, and the newer snap-fit Khorne Blood Reavers? By using this stuff and a brush, I have made invisible arm-to-torso joints without the use of putty. cool.png

 

I've done that from time to time - but the best way is to apply a thin bead to both surfaces to be joined, give it a moment to work, and then press the parts together as tight as you can.  This should create a bead of melted plastic along the join - and when it's dry it's no different than a mold line.  Once you scrape/sand/file it down, it's literally a single piece of plastic.

 

It's a technique that is used by larger-scale plastic model builders, and personally I find it easiest to do with a needle applicator on this small scale.

 

The issue that I have with this is that when you squeeze out the melted plastic, you still have to go back and file it afterwards - on small or hard-to-reach areas, it's very difficult to get a neat result, and often there are little bubble holes left after filing that need filling and re-sanding. It also adds considerable additional time to assembly/prep before you're ready for priming the model.

 

If you have the opportunity to keep the bead of plastic and disguise it (for example, pressing along its length with a knife whilst its still soft to make it look like a welding seam), then this technique works really well.

 

I also feel that if you can overbrush the joints rather than squeeze them them out, you keep more material and create a stronger joint. Don't forget, the melding of the softened plastic is what gives the joint it's strength, and if you squeeze too much of it out then you can weaken the resulting joint.

 

 

Another tip I've seen suggested for that particular product is to hotglue or epoxy a small square of wood/mdf to the bottom of the bottle; stops it tipping over, and catches any accidental drips down the side as it is a really 'hot' solvent.

 

If you can leave your workspace area set up, this is the best solution IMO.

 

Similarly, using something like a couple of pieces of 4" x 4" x 1" ply stuck together with a hole cut through them into which you can slot the bottle is also good.

 

I don't really have a permanent setup, as I often have to tidy everything away on fairly short notice. I therefore find the poster tack is a good compromise that still achieves the required effect of making the bottle hard to knock over.  :)


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#29
Bubble_Helmet

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Call me a heathen but I just use Gorilla glue. 


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#30
walter h

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Call me a heathen but I just use Gorilla glue. 

Same for me works better ,and with no hassle.


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#31
OnboardG1

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I've used Loctite pretty much exclusively for years. Great stuff and comes in thinner stuff and the Powerflex which is good for mounting magnets and the like.


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#32
Fr33Dom

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Got some tamiya extra thin today. Didn’t realise there was a hobbycraft shop literally 5 miles away so just been there and picked that up and got some tamiya acrylic paint thinner too, although I doubt I’ll ever need it but you never know

#33
Arkhanist

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Aaaand, the brush that is built into the cap of Tamyia Extra Thin never needs to be unclogged with a lighter and/or other methods. Additionally, you can use the brush to not only control how much glue to apply, but also to smooth surfaces with a small amount of glue brushed over it, or fill gaps by softening the plastic into a 'soup' and then working it with the brush to refine it and close the gap. I've used adhesives with needle applicators in the past and never liked the lack of control of how much adhesive I can add when I'm trying to be very careful, and what options I can employ once the adhesive is in place. Naturally, it's completely subjective but I've found the brush applicator easier to use, offering more control, and more options of how to work with the glue as you apply it.

 

I bought some tamiya extra thin to try out, and I'm definitely impressed. Been putting together Death Company for ETL from a mix of the current kit and some ooold assault marines I broke apart. It does take a little adjustment to get used to the new method of putting things together.

 

Basically dry fit the parts, dip the brush (brush off excess in the jar) and run along the seams. Press together for a few seconds (avoiding fingers near the seams) and done. This stuff should be called 'seam fixer'. Remember those old light grey assault marine jump packs with the horrible gappy seam along the engine cowling? Generous line of tamiya extra thin over the top, press the halves together hard while it melts the join, then let dry. Maybe 30 seconds with a jeweller's file and a couple of buffs with micromesh pads to smooth off the left over glue and... seams be gone, no putty required. It's like magic.  

 

I'm sure some of the even hotter solvent glues do the same or better, but the bottle and brush on the extra thin is a great combo and very stable, no risk of spilling and the brush cap rests nicely in the neck stopping it offgassing between parts. Significantly stronger joins than humbrol poly cement, far more controllable, and no flipping clogged nozzle. And I haven't had any loss of detail or messy glue look yet if I overapply and it wicks into an unintended crevice.

 

Just goes to show, 30 years in the hobby and you can still learn new things! Cheers for the recommendation, consider me a convert.


Edited by Arkhanist, 27 April 2018 - 12:06 AM.

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#34
Subtle Discord

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Happy I can provide some insight. I try not to be a snob about the certain preferences I have, but there are a few things that I'm a strong advocate for, and Tamiya Extra Thin is one of those things. I will always extol its virtues to anyone willing to listen and/or give it a try. I've used a lot of different solvent adhesives over the years but Extra Thin is just... better. It's the perfect balance of heat, control, speed, and strength.


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#35
Bloody Legionnaire

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This stuff is hands down my favorite glue for plastic model kits. 

 

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Because it is a liquid and applies with a brush it's pretty versatile and can be applied to the seam with components held in place by a clamp. It's pretty strong stuff so all you need is a little bit. One bottle will go a long way too. 



#36
mithrilforge

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I'm Glad you went with the Tamiya glue,it's the only one i use also thumbsup.gif  Trust me ! you won't look back ... OH and if you do look back you'll get poked in the eye with the stupid metal tube that clogs up all the time laugh.png ...

 

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#37
Armfelt

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Humbrol Precision Poly Cement for plastic
Loctite Super Glue for tin/resin

These have never failed me. :)


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