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Better alternatives to GW plastic glue?


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#26
Prot

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Just FYI I haven’t read the entire thread.

Revell is a good alternative.

I have had a similar problem but I take a lighter to the tip and it always works.

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#27
feuer_faust

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Good points on the thin glue and brush method, might have ro give it a go and see how it works...
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#28
Major_Gilbear

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Like Subtle Discord says, you can also work the stuff with the brush over joins to simply make them disappear. You know those awful old plastic kits like the Catachans and Chaos Marauders, and the newer snap-fit Khorne Blood Reavers? By using this stuff and a brush, I have made invisible arm-to-torso joints without the use of putty. cool.png

 

I've done that from time to time - but the best way is to apply a thin bead to both surfaces to be joined, give it a moment to work, and then press the parts together as tight as you can.  This should create a bead of melted plastic along the join - and when it's dry it's no different than a mold line.  Once you scrape/sand/file it down, it's literally a single piece of plastic.

 

It's a technique that is used by larger-scale plastic model builders, and personally I find it easiest to do with a needle applicator on this small scale.

 

The issue that I have with this is that when you squeeze out the melted plastic, you still have to go back and file it afterwards - on small or hard-to-reach areas, it's very difficult to get a neat result, and often there are little bubble holes left after filing that need filling and re-sanding. It also adds considerable additional time to assembly/prep before you're ready for priming the model.

 

If you have the opportunity to keep the bead of plastic and disguise it (for example, pressing along its length with a knife whilst its still soft to make it look like a welding seam), then this technique works really well.

 

I also feel that if you can overbrush the joints rather than squeeze them them out, you keep more material and create a stronger joint. Don't forget, the melding of the softened plastic is what gives the joint it's strength, and if you squeeze too much of it out then you can weaken the resulting joint.

 

 

Another tip I've seen suggested for that particular product is to hotglue or epoxy a small square of wood/mdf to the bottom of the bottle; stops it tipping over, and catches any accidental drips down the side as it is a really 'hot' solvent.

 

If you can leave your workspace area set up, this is the best solution IMO.

 

Similarly, using something like a couple of pieces of 4" x 4" x 1" ply stuck together with a hole cut through them into which you can slot the bottle is also good.

 

I don't really have a permanent setup, as I often have to tidy everything away on fairly short notice. I therefore find the poster tack is a good compromise that still achieves the required effect of making the bottle hard to knock over.  :)


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#29
Bubble_Helmet

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Call me a heathen but I just use Gorilla glue. 


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#30
walter h

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Call me a heathen but I just use Gorilla glue. 

Same for me works better ,and with no hassle.



#31
OnboardG1

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I've used Loctite pretty much exclusively for years. Great stuff and comes in thinner stuff and the Powerflex which is good for mounting magnets and the like.


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#32
Fr33Dom

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Got some tamiya extra thin today. Didn’t realise there was a hobbycraft shop literally 5 miles away so just been there and picked that up and got some tamiya acrylic paint thinner too, although I doubt I’ll ever need it but you never know

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