Solution: Death Guard Green Woes

[Jarl Caldersson]

So I posted this in General PCA but it never received a response. So I thought the DG forum would be a better place.

 

I primed my models black and I am trying to paint it with DG Green of course. I have tried with a airbrush and with paintbrush. For the airbrush I diluted it 1:1 vallejo thinner to paint, and it coats it so thin its like a shade and it takes 6 or 7 coats to get it to the right color. At that point it cracks at the edges and any sharp point. I tried 1:2 and it too thick. For painting I painted it and again and it coats the model so thin it takes 5 or so coats to get a decent coverage and it's time consuming. I am trying to get these done for ETL and I am stuck on just the base coat.

 

Is there something I am doing wrong, is there any tips on using this paint? I haven't had issues like this with any other citadel base paint before but this one is a constant headache. I bought new brushes and paint for ETL and as I said I am stuck at step 2. For the models that are ruined, should I just dip them in simple green and start over?

 

 

Solution: So I discussed with some other painter who are by far more experienced. DG Green doesn't cover as well as other base paints I have used before (ex: mechanicus standard grey. I was told to use the DG Green rattle can as Prot suggested, but as that is not an option, to use white primer OR Vallejo parched grass. The Vallejo parched grass was the better option as a single coat or two of DG Green would cover it, the parched grass is slighlty darker. So I wasn't going crazy as I thought about this paint. I just hope that someone learns from this.

[Prot]

Well you should really use a Death Guard primer can. Or prime white if you can. Use ‘base’ paints when possible, they are rich with pigment so there’s better coverage but you can still water it down.

[Jarl Caldersson]

I am using the base paint version. Not the air version.

 

I would do that except priming with a can outside in Korea is a awful. The amount of pollution and small particles causes the paint to have deformities.

 

I will have to prime white from now on with DG Green as you proposed. Just never had this problem with base paint before.

[SkimaskMohawk]

Im pretty sure you're not supposed to go 1:1 on the thinner. As long as it was mixed well, 3:1 worked fine for me and base paints. That being said each paint does have its own consistentcy.

 

Some base paints also just suck. I'll never use mephiston as anything but a layer, which is a shame because the old mechrite red was a really nice base for vibrant reds

[Jarl Caldersson]

Im pretty sure you're not supposed to go 1:1 on the thinner. As long as it was mixed well, 3:1 worked fine for me and base paints. That being said each paint does have its own consistentcy.

 

Some base paints also just suck. I'll never use mephiston as anything but a layer, which is a shame because the old mechrite red was a really nice base for vibrant reds

 

 

is that 3:1 paint to thinner? 

 

It seems like DG Green is one of the base paints that i feel act like a layer paint.

[Bat33.1]

I use a mid grey primer coat, a mix of Vallejo grey and panzer grey primer, ends up a bit darker than the kit plastic unless you are building the push fit kits which are green

 

Then air brush thinned white from above to pick out details, highlight primer coat. DG green will work fine over this even 1:1 thinner but will need 2 coats to get an even finish. Don’t forget DG green is designed to work with a shade, athonian cameo is GW recommended one but Agrax works fine and gives a more earthy tone. I’ve used agrax for troops but camo shade for hero’s like typhus to make them look a little different without loosing the unified army look.

 

I’ve used the spray can too for a few figures and it covers really well in one pass but if it’s not an option try the grey/white primer technique

[Verux]

I used Deathworld Forest as a base for all mine. I think you are correct in saying it acts more like a layer.

[Cleon]

Since I assume you are willing to use Vallejo (as you use their thinner) then something I've found useful when touching up dark colour overspill (I use the DG spray as a base) is to use Vallejo 'Russian Uniform' as a substitute base and then treat Death Guard green as a layer over the top to correct the shade, I'd hope that'd work from scratch too. 

[Evil Eye]

Is there an Air version of DG Green? I tried airbrushing "Base" Khorne Red and it was awful but the Air version was lovely to use.

[SkimaskMohawk]

Without thinning it down?

[Jarl Caldersson]

So I have put all my models in pinesol, as there is no simple green, in hopes of stripping it. I also found some Vallejo parched grass primer online, thank the Allfather that I married a Korean wife that could do so in Korea.

 

I also reached out to GW and was told that there have been others that have complained about the paint and it might have been a bad batch. I have ordered more DG Green in hopes this is true, and will test it. Until then I can only wait until these models are stripped or ask Captain Semper to revoke my vow so I may start a new, different, one in light of things. I will continue to update this thread. Again, I only hope this helps others out, so they do not cross my same issue.

[Jarl Caldersson]

Since I assume you are willing to use Vallejo (as you use their thinner) then something I've found useful when touching up dark colour overspill (I use the DG spray as a base) is to use Vallejo 'Russian Uniform' as a substitute base and then treat Death Guard green as a layer over the top to correct the shade, I'd hope that'd work from scratch too.

 

I used to prefer GW colors to get that exact match, but as I mature more in this hobby I find myself willing to explore other avenues. DG Green is unique enough I find myself forced to use it. So I will use Vallejo parched grass to prime and DG Green to layer.

 

The fact that Vallejo comes in dropper bottles is a huge advantage for me. Need to find a perfect bronze for my SW's as GW seems to lack this.

[Jarl Caldersson]

So I got the Vallejo Parched Grass Primer yesterday.

 

I put a drop of the following in order from top to bottom. Parched Grass, Death Guard Green, and Nurgling Green. I am posting this so you guys can compare. The Parched Grass is darker, but I think is going to make an excellent primer for Death Guard Green. It is almost like the old Plague Marine color I think.

 

The first picture is of the painter dried about 24 hours later. The second is fresh.

http://imgur.com/uIHqXcP

http://imgur.com/UwlzGVA

 

Again I hope you guys find this useful, and future Death Guard players.

 

Edit: also I read Vallejo primer is also a brush on primer (something I didn't know) so those that are in high dust/pollution or low/high humidity can use it almost whenever.

[Verux]

Thanks for the visual aid. I am always looking for decent dropper bottle alternatives but Vallejo is hard to determine the actual hue of the colors at times.

[Bloody Legionnaire]

i switched my Death Guard green over to Vallejo bottles that would allow me to easily drop paint into my airbrush. I added a bit of thinner to the bottle as I found the DG paint to be a little thick but then I noticed what you were talking about with how they thin differently than other base paints. Over Vallejo Surface Primer and over Stynylrez and thinned with testors acrylic thinner I've had no issued with the paint cracking. All of my coats have turned out very well. 

[Jarl Caldersson]

Well Pine Sol sucks as a stripping agent. So I ordered all new models to assemble, except 4, the plague brethren. So anyone up for a stripping comission, lol. I will update later with an update on how this primer performed.

[Bloody Legionnaire]

Simple Green is your best friend for stripping paint!

[Wolf Lord Loki]

Detol works in the UK.

[Panzer]

I use bio ethanol. Basically just alcohol. Worked very well so far for GW paints on plastic models.

[Jarl Caldersson]

I was only able to find simple green max, don't know if it's different.t I will try. I have extra models now to throw to the chemicals.

[Kite Senet]

I use bio ethanol. Basically just alcohol. Worked very well so far for GW paints on plastic models.

I tried propanol on a handful of models I was hoping to strip but they resisted stubbornly. I wouldn't think there'd be *that* much difference, but perhaps the smaller molecule size permits ethanol to better permeate dried paint so the hydroxide groups can do their work?

[Panzer]

 

I use bio ethanol. Basically just alcohol. Worked very well so far for GW paints on plastic models.

I tried propanol on a handful of models I was hoping to strip but they resisted stubbornly. I wouldn't think there'd be *that* much difference, but perhaps the smaller molecule size permits ethanol to better permeate dried paint so the hydroxide groups can do their work?

 

 

No clue, really. I'm a programmer, not a chemist. :P

[Arkhanist]

I use bistrip 20, but I doubt you could get it in korea. Alternate approach -  isopropyl alcohol + models in a ziplock bag, leave bag in a bowl of warm water (30 - 40 degC) for an hour or so. 

 

IPA needs to be high strength though, ideally 99%; 70% is not effective. It should be available in pharmacies as an all purpose degreaser/cleaner.

[USNCenturion]

I used the death guard green spray can for my DG and i was very happy with the results; both coverage and color.

 

That’s unfortunate that the air quality doesn’t give you that option, but if you can find a way to ventilate an indoor space, the spray is really quite good and worth the effort.