Jump to content

Weighing down bases


Recommended Posts

Firstly, is this something you do?

 

Basically for my lighter models, especially some that don't like to stand up very easily, I tend to blu-tac pennies to the bottom. Doesn't deface the penny but gives the model some weight, and helps with balance. Particularly useful for Imperial Guard standard bearers and that sort of thing.

 

But when it comes to terminators, the new base size they use for them has the bottom with lots of supports and nowhere to fit said penny. What would you do in that circumstance?

 

Like this (not my pic): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/radioactive_fae/magnetbases/term_magnet_base.jpg

 

I've bought some cheap terminators that are made of really cheap plastic. They have no weight to them at all and they just don't feel right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had been glueing in various sizes of washers, after watchinga gw employee glue nickels into the common round base. But like you said a lot of bases don't have internal room anymore... you could dremel the space...

 

Or you could pack the bottom of the base with JB weld.

 

Or glue in the gaps little lead fishing weights...

 

Encorporate heavier material like stone and metal into your scenic bases...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clip out anything under the base, score it, and fill it with Milliput. After it's cured for a couple of days, I lightly sand the base bottom flat.

 

You'd be surprised at the heft this adds to models, without adding so much weight that carrying an army becomes prohibitive. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use some small needle-nosed pliers to crush and twist off the under-base supports. After a couple, you'll get the hang of the most efficient technique quite quickly.

 

I did a little tutorial a while back on puttying and weighting bases that you might find helpful:

 

Well, as it happens, I did do a tutorial a little while back:

 

 

 

Black velour on every base? That they walk on? Man, you are classy. I will forever think of you as the Dos Equis guy.

 

I don't often get recognised, but when I do...

 

 

...I can sometimes feel the call of posting a tutorial! :wink:

 

 

So, I thought I'd post a quick 'how-to' on the method I use here in case it's useful to anyone.

These mostly use the 30mm lipped bases because that's what I was working on when I snapped the pix at the time, but as you can see at the bottom, I do the same with the 25mm bevelled edge bases too... Essentially, I do all my bases like this to a greater extent (although I don't always use a full lead button for small bases, whereas for large bases I can use two or three if I feel it warranted).

Step 1
Take a fresh base, and turn the it over. Using a strong sharp knife, carefully cut the slot out of the base.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step1sm.jpg

Step 2
The base should now look like this. I normally check the other side too, to make sure that the cut is neat.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step2sm.jpg

Step 3
For the weights, I use lead curtain weights. I got mine from Merrick & Day a while back.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step3sm.jpg

If you don't have (or can't get) lead weights, a number of companies make pewter base weights instead. For example, Impact Miniatures in the US makes base weights that can be added to the bottom of slotted bases. Some of these may need some prep-work of their own, but I prefer lead because I like the heavier weight personally.

Step 4
The lead weights will need trimming slightly to get a snug fit into a standard 30mm base because of the round shoulder. (The bevelled edge bases usually don't need trimming as long as you bought weights that are 2-3mm smaller than the bottom of the base). After a dry-test fit, I then use lots of thick superglue and stick the weight into the base and make sure it sits flat. Leave it somewhere to dry overnight.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step4sm.jpg

Step 5
After the bases are all dry, I mix up some yellow-grey Milliput and pack the underside really well. I also add a little bit to the slot on the top. After about an hour, rinse the base under some warmish water to give the putty a final smoothing, and to ensure you clean off any excess putty off the rim or top. Leave this to cure for a day at least - preferably two or three, as you want the putty cured really hard. This allows you to sand the bottom of the bases flat and smooth. The basic base prep is now done.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step5sm.jpg

Step 6
Meanwhile, mix up another quantity of yellow-grey Milliput and put it into a sandwich bag. Using a rolling pin (or a screw-top glass wine bottle filled with water if you don't have (permission to use) one), flatten the putty out to the desired thickness. I would suggest that about 3mm thick is good for flagstones, and 5mm thick is good for slate/concrete.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step6sm.jpg

Step 7
Once the putty is cured, you can break it up with pliers and shape it using clippers. For the flagstones, final shaping is done with a sharp knife and care!

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step7sm.jpg

Step 8
Arrange the pieces on your base to make a slate-effect that is easy to stick and pin models to...

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step8sm.jpg

Step 9
...Or to make flagstones that look really textured and chunky.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step9sm.jpg

Step 10
Or, ignoring making a sculpted top, you can go with the traditional sand/gravel.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step10sm.jpg

Step 11
If you want to use other companies' base toppers, you can just stick them on top as well... Or if (like me) you have some resin bases that you like but still want weighted, you can cut the tops off them, sand the pieces nice and smooth and then finally stick them on as if they were base toppers to start with. I did this recently with some great Tech bases from Dragon Forge (which were so awesomely cast, there weren't even any air bubbles inside the bases! Wow!), and you can see the results look good:

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step11s.jpg

Other Materials and Finishing Touches
For timber/wood effects, I get the best result from plastic styrene strip dragged over very coarse sandpaper. I then weather the parts with a very sharp knife (fresh blades really help here). I like the styrene over wood because I can stick it more easily and securely, because I can control the grain, and because I feel it paints up better than actual wood does.

I also polish the base edges with fine emery/sand paper before I put the final details on top, as they look much better (especially as I use a very matte finish). I tend to favour painting base rims black too (which I know is not to everyone's taste), and they can show up roughness really easily when they catch light; getting them smooth pretty much eliminates this.

Finally, after the base is painted and the model is attached (I paint the models off their bases), I stick a circle of black velour to the bottoms. This adds the final touch to the bases, and ensures that they don't slide about on most surfaces. I know that posting non Space Marine / Imperium pix is grounds to get moderated, but I only have one picture in my PB account that has felted model bases (here), so I hope that linking to it doesn't incur anyone's' wrath! :ph34r.: As you can see, they don't really look that different, and the extra weight of the base with the black velour grip feels very solid indeed on the tabletop.

So there you have it; my overly complicated (but very satisfying) method of making bases! :cool.:

 

The main difference between that explanation and my Dark Angel bases, is that after sanding the base bottoms in Step 5, I use a 6.5mm diameter cobalt-coated drill bit to make a shallow hole; I then glue in a 6mm diameter x 2mm thick grade 42 Neodymium magnet.

 

I also add much less lead weight to the DA bases because (1) they have a metal magnet in the bottom which also adds weight, and (2) for an army game it would add far too much overall weight to the army for transporting it - I therefore normally only do full lead base inserts for skirmish games.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use 2mm lead shot. Cheap, dense, easy to work with and easy to find a spot for it under almost any base. And when you can't, it's small enough to blend a few in with the basing material.

 

In the UK, the plain round shot typically sold for scuba weight pouches is a much cheaper source than the shaped or split shot sold for fishing weights.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.