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Captain Semper's Adeptus Titanicus project


Captain Semper

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Put on some goggles and drill one set out with a power drill.  I can rip off magnets that stick out from a surface with pliers but getting superglued magnets out of a recess requires some aggressive measures.  Neodymium magnets have a nasty habit of breaking up when you clamp them with pliers or try drilling them out, especially the cheap Chinese nickel coated ones like mine so put on goggles.

 

I was yanking a 6mm x 3mm magnet off the waist of a Telemon dread that I bloody NAILED to the torso with glue and trying to yank it off with linesman pliers (not hobby pliers, actual pliers) was actually causing sparks as pieces broke off.  It was like working a cigarette lighter.

Edited by Fajita Fan
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Woaw, that's indeed an aggressive method. With resin no experience using magnets yet but with plastic models, the easiest is to drill into the plastic next to the magnet so to be able to put a blade behind it. It might require drilling / cutting all around the magnet of course.

I've broken more blades using them to lever things than I care to, I took a piece of shrapnel to my eye as a kid (luckily no vision problems today) so I'm hesitant to do that much anymore.  The drill is nice because I go in perpendicular with safety glasses and the magnet usually crumbles to where I can go in with pliers.  The shoulder joints of AT Warlords doesn't give me much real estate if I went in drilling to the side but there's plenty of ways to do things depending on how strong your gluing was.

 

Murphy's rule of superglue bonds:  The more you want it to stay in place the easier the bond comes loose.  The more you need to get it apart to fix something it may be welded on for all intents and purposes. :verymad:

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Well thank you for all those responses! :woot:

 

 

 

Sooo.... Let's assume that someone (let's say a cousin of mine) glued the magnets on the carapace weapons so as to repel instead of attract... Any remedies for that short of super-gluing them? *HE* might be interested... :whistling:

 

Which size are the magnets in the carapace weapons? 3mm or 5mm? Super glue I would assume?

One trick is to drill one or several small holes next to the magnet and then insert a thin but strong blade and apply leverage to try to get the magnet out. Depending on how much glue and how deep they are inserted, it ranges from annoying but relatively easy to annoying and hard. Some swearing mandatory of course :biggrin.:

 

Yeah, drilling might not be possible -due to the shape of the shoulder (the shoulder magnet is the bit I want to remove - not the weapon...  Superglueing might be the only way forward - inelegant as it may be... :rolleyes:

 

Put on some goggles and drill one set out with a power drill.  I can rip off magnets that stick out from a surface with pliers but getting superglued magnets out of a recess requires some aggressive measures.  Neodymium magnets have a nasty habit of breaking up when you clamp them with pliers or try drilling them out, especially the cheap Chinese nickel coated ones like mine so put on goggles.

 

I was yanking a 6mm x 3mm magnet off the waist of a Telemon dread that I bloody NAILED to the torso with glue and trying to yank it off with linesman pliers (not hobby pliers, actual pliers) was actually causing sparks as pieces broke off.  It was like working a cigarette lighter.

Put on goggles and drill... :o

 

81ArkFnDiaL.png

 

OK, power tools mayyyyybe not the way to go for me. Zero experience, I do not own one currently (or ever) and I do not plan to start acquainting myself with this technique with the Warlord where everything can go wrong - as it would be the first time for me... You sir really mean business! :lol:

 

Woaw, that's indeed an aggressive method. With resin no experience using magnets yet but with plastic models, the easiest is to drill into the plastic next to the magnet so to be able to put a blade behind it. It might require drilling / cutting all around the magnet of course.

Yeah, this drilling and cutting is what scares me... :confused:

 

You can buy super glue debonder bud. I had to remove a few magnets when they dadn’t set quite flush. It will strip paint mind so go easy with it and I’d recommend drilling a 0.5 or 1mm hole next to it to let it get to the bottom of the socket.

ALRIGHT!!! Now this is something that I might be able to use... I don't care about the stripped paint - this is easily remedied. The drilling of a hole is more of a concern - but I'll give it a go. I didn't even know that such de-bonders even existed... Can you get them from a hobby shop? Or a DIY store? This actually opens up new prospects - thanks man!  :)

 

 

Woaw, that's indeed an aggressive method. With resin no experience using magnets yet but with plastic models, the easiest is to drill into the plastic next to the magnet so to be able to put a blade behind it. It might require drilling / cutting all around the magnet of course.

I've broken more blades using them to lever things than I care to, I took a piece of shrapnel to my eye as a kid (luckily no vision problems today) so I'm hesitant to do that much anymore.  The drill is nice because I go in perpendicular with safety glasses and the magnet usually crumbles to where I can go in with pliers.  The shoulder joints of AT Warlords doesn't give me much real estate if I went in drilling to the side but there's plenty of ways to do things depending on how strong your gluing was.

 

Murphy's rule of superglue bonds:  The more you want it to stay in place the easier the bond comes loose.  The more you need to get it apart to fix something it may be welded on for all intents and purposes. :verymad:

 

Thanks Fajita... As you said the shoulder joints on the Warlord are a difficult area to work - especially given their bucket-like shape. And the glueing was perfect... Murphy's law indeed. :(

 

Try freezing it. The cyanoacrylate should end up quite a bit more brittle than the polystyrene at relatively low temps...much easier to pry off. Debonder works a trick as well...

Yeah, maybe the de-bonder is the way... Thank you man! :)

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I thought the inverted magnet was in the weapon.

As it is in the shoulder socket and you are basically done with painting the upper part of the titan, it is trickier.

Now, the shoulder socket could be cut parallel to the magnet using a jeweler saw. Then access to the magnet becomes much easier. It is precision work, not something to rush and some precautions must be taken to avoid messing up other things.

I tend to glue my magnets during the building phase, before applying any paint at all.

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JUSTICIA IMPERIALIS


WARLORD CLASS TITAN OF LEGIO ATARUS



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med_gallery_27176_14912_65989.jpeg med_gallery_27176_14912_190883.jpeg



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I gave up and just glued it... Oh, well...



Here are some additional pics:



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and I see your Warlord and raise you Reaver and two Warhounds!!!



gallery_27176_14912_89302.jpeg



I will post and update the Titans event tomorrow... exhausted right now...


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Thank you guys! :smile.:

 

I'm now working on an extra Belicosa for Justucia and already started on the Reaver! 

 

Have been catching up on this thread. Amazing work.

 

Having an airbrush makes certain aspects of painting SO much faster!

Thanks schoon! 

 

And true enough, airbrush certainly has a positive impact on the time! However, I have not used an airbrush for the Atarus at all. In fact my airbrush suffered my anger management issues and needs to be replaced. :tongue.:

 

Asmodai would have been proud... :rolleyes:

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Thx Sherrypie, the trick as you say is to the "creaminess" of the white... However, I've seen interpretations with really sharp white - they look quite cool too.

 

But my take is that creamy look... And a very dark red. Like Khorne Red red. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

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